Inches to degrees (levelling)

[RT1997]

Originally Posted by booster

It gets a lot easier if you don't use the arc length and then another calculation back to the change in two dimensions.



The change will occur on an arc, but for low angles, and for something like leveling which isn't super critical, I would just use regular two dimensional right angle trigonometry


Doing it that way you use the conversion of .017" of change vertically for every inch of horizontal distance for every degree which is pretty close for small angles.



So you get for the 79" width



3degrees X .017" X 79 = 4.029"


If I do calc off of the link example, they got 5.026" for 3* at 96"


Doing calc as I did it would 3 X .017 X 96 = 4.896


That is within .13" or 1/8" and you level in 1" increments and have suspension and sway bars mucking up the movement besides so insignificant in the real world.


The very digital levels are accurate to about +/- .03 degrees or so, but the typical ones you buy for under $50 are somewhere in the +/- .2 to .3 degrees, so you have about 10% either way for 3% of error which is nearly 1/2" at you width and 3%. Much more than the calc estimation error.


I always remind users that the digital measuring tools are usually nowhere near the accuracy they display inferred by the number of digits. Many levels display two digits after the decimal point but are only accurate to .3 of one digit. Digital calipers commonly display to 3 digits after the decimal and sometimes even 4 digits and many of them are only accurate to +/- .002" or so. The digital stuff does tend to repeat measurements a lot better than the accuracy so the +/- .3 degrees could easily repeat to .1 degree or better on the same measurement.


The easy way to check a digital level, or bubble level, is on a fairly level surface. Check it with the level in one place and note the reading, turn the level around 180 degrees in and measure the exact same point (I mark with tape) and measure it again. Only the sign + or - of the angle should change and any difference is error times 2 plus placement error.

Booster, you are s genius and the real booster!
1000 thanks!

[RT1997]

Originally Posted by GeorgeRa

Issue with not levelled absorption fridges is often discussed, it is accumulative failure due to the lack levelling so as long you stay as level as possible within your means the life of the fridge will be longer, no one will tell you how long.

I am not certain about your question and especially the need for the answer.

See the calculator for a right-angle triangle.

https://www.calculator.net/right-tri...alculator.html

As Booster wrote, you need 2 data points to calculate either angle (alpha) or height (a):
input “a” and “b” to get the angle “alpha” or input “alpha” and “b” to get the “a”

Thank you so much!
I get what you mean by the need of an an answer.This levelling device is more curse than a blessing.It brought a lot of stress and sometimes frustration.Driving on wedges is like making an elephant to do figure skating.
If swapping fridge in RV would not require hours of hassel I would be doing this often enough . Seriously !
I was so much happier when I did not know about the necessity of levelling.

But...What is better - not to know about being terminally ill and have a few years of normal life or know and go trough chemo or such to prolong the misery?

[engnrsrule]

I use an App called Camper Leveler Free Edition. Removes the trig and guesswork. You do have to measure wheelbase and width.

The real challenge with our sprinter class B is how to raise/lower. I was thinking about permanently mounted scissor jacks, but not sure there is enough space. Might fabricate some kind of bracket for them but then would have to use valuable other space to store them. I am still assessing options. Hate using the "legos" as it seems to take 3 or 4 attempts to get it right.

If you have jacking mechanisms that are not at the wheels, use the distance between jack locations instead of wheelbase.

[booster]

Originally Posted by engnrsrule

I use an App called Camper Leveler Free Edition. Removes the trig and guesswork. You do have to measure wheelbase and width.

The real challenge with our sprinter class B is how to raise/lower. I was thinking about permanently mounted scissor jacks, but not sure there is enough space. Might fabricate some kind of bracket for them but then would have to use valuable other space to store them. I am still assessing options. Hate using the "legos" as it seems to take 3 or 4 attempts to get it right.

AFAIK, the apps are all just a calculation based on level, wheelbase and track. What they can't do is allow for the vehicle suspension like springs and swaybars that can easily make you at least one block off when using the legos.


We have the big stock swaybar in the front and a even bigger one in the rear and that rear bar does make changes odd, even for us if we use the rear airbags to try to get level with the wheels on the ground.


Once you have used the blocks a bunch, you do get accustomed to how much more or less to allow from the app. I really didn't like using the app at all because I had to get out of the driver's seat to see it on the counter top and couldn't see it from outside the van. A bullseye level where I can see it from the sear our outside works best for us, and we know about about how much to block up by bubble position and practice. We do rarely need the blocks however, but when you do they are nice have and easy to store.

[Calsun]

I used afree leveling appp on my phone with shows tenth of a degree. When the newer phone arrived, the camera sticks out so its noit accurate. I have always used the kitchen counter as a flat surface.

I now just use a 12" portable bubble level on the kitchen counter. So far it works for the refrigerator staying level..

[ChicagoTom]

Sorry, I find post like this comical. I have a $7 plastic level and never had a problem. LOL KISS JMO

[Jim M]

Check out the Leveller made by "BEECH LANE."
We put one in our Roadtrek and now it is so easy & fast to get her levelled I wish i had bout it years ago!
Affordable and a easy 3 minute install.
If I recall you can set it which ever way you like?
Check it out on their website at: https://www.beech-lane.com/camper-levelers
I think you can get them on Amazon too.
PS: have a look at their other products too they have some interesting ones.
Jim

[GeorgeRa]

Originally Posted by Jim M

Check out the Leveller made by "BEECH LANE."
We put one in our Roadtrek and now it is so easy & fast to get her levelled I wish i had bout it years ago!
Affordable and a easy 3 minute install.
If I recall you can set it which ever way you like?
Check it out on their website at: https://www.beech-lane.com/camper-levelers
I think you can get them on Amazon too.
PS: have a look at their other products too they have some interesting ones.
Jim

Ho do you set Beach Lane if there is a difference from front to rear or from left to right in heights to level the van. With Lynx you can build these “legos” to different heights before driving on them, could be difficult with these curved triangles.

[Jim M]

Originally Posted by GeorgeRa

Ho do you set Beach Lane if there is a difference from front to rear or from left to right in heights to level the van. With Lynx you can build these “legos” to different heights before driving on them, could be difficult with these curved triangles.

Hi George:

I already had a set of those yellow plastic ramps from my Class A days.
They are stepped so its easy to drive on & off. Also easy to find/set custom heights for each wheel.

When using the Beech Lane Leveller:

- Its hooked up by "Blue Tooth" to my cell phone.
- My cell phone is mounted on the dashboard so i can watch the levelling changes live.
- The Leveller is a small little box that mounts with 2 little screws to the inside of your rig (follow the easy instructions = about 3 minutes!).
- My wife usually sets the ramps up at my direction of which wheel(s) needing them.
- The display on my phone lets me know how much I need and where (which wheel).

It works like a bubble level with the added feature of the computer tallying how much height i need and where.

If you have different heights front to back or side to side it will show you where and how much to add or remove. It takes the guess work out it!

Placing the Ramps in the proper location to the corresponding tire is something you get to know how to do and it gets easier with experience.

Very easy to use and I can quickly/easily level my rig without even getting out of the Driver's seat.

I quit using the Lego (Lynx brand) type of blocks a long time ago as for me they were a pain.

The ramp style is quicker and easier in my humble opinion - at least for me.

If I had seen the type of levelling ramps that Beech Lane and others have I would have tried them as they look even better than what I have now.

You can see a list of their products including the Blue Tooth Leveller at this Link: https://www.beech-lane.com/products

No I don't work for Beech Lane but I do like the products Ive tried from them so far!

All the best & Safe Travels!
Jim

[GeorgeRa]

Originally Posted by Jim M

Hi George:

.............................
Placing the Ramps in the proper location to the corresponding tire is something you get to know how to do and it gets easier with experience.
....................
Jim

Thank you for the detail explanation, experience is likely the essence for easy use.

[phantomjock]

I too own a 170. This has been an interesting discussion. Perhaps the underlying assumptions could be better clarified. Using inches - where are you going to measure? Chassis, body panel, etc. The refrigerator unit is (should be) the item of concern. I am assuming you can put a pillow under your head to set the bunk level.

So what is left?

KISS:

Hits on all three axes, lets you choose which corner you might want to adjust.
Shows when you are wiithin 3degrees too. Works for me.

Cheers - Jim

BTW A>Z cheap as chips..

[booster]

Originally Posted by phantomjock

I too own a 170. This has been an interesting discussion. Perhaps the underlying assumptions could be better clarified. Using inches - where are you going to measure? Chassis, body panel, etc. The refrigerator unit is (should be) the item of concern. I am assuming you can put a pillow under your head to set the bunk level.

So what is left?

KISS:

Hits on all three axes, lets you choose which corner you might want to adjust.
Shows when you are wiithin 3degrees too. Works for me.

Cheers - Jim

BTW A>Z cheap as chips..

That is a big level, and nice that it shows actual degrees,



Our bullseye is much smaller with a single circle, but that circle just happens to be in the right place for us. If we are within 1/2 of the bubble outside the circle, we are OK. If it is more side to side I would add a block to the low side, but a bit more than 1/2 bubble front to rear is fine if the rear is the highest.


This is simple, accurate enough, visible from the driver seat and durable for nearly 15 years now. I tried the apps and what a pain by comparison, IMO.