hydronic heating system

[GeorgeRa]

These heaters don’t like to run on idle, the prime time for soot build up. My D2 often runs on low setting, but after every trip I run both D2 and D5 hot for a half an hour. I have D2 for 6 years with one problem of air in fuel due to low fuel in the tank. I installed D5 a couple of years ago and have no problem.

[avanti]

Originally Posted by booster

I assume the kerosene once a year is to flush and clean the systems?

Yes. The kerosene burns hotter than diesel fuel and has no additives. It is pretty miraculous. It can often make a poorly-running heater run perfectly again. Some people run pure kerosene all time from a special tank. They claim that this setup will run almost forever without service.

[cnairn]

Originally Posted by Calvin T

Hi - it might be stale but this is a great thread and as a new owner of a lightly-used Roadtrek RS Adventurous with a similar problem, I'm interested in whether S&S Thomas was able to resolve the difficulty getting his Espar heater running.

For what it's worth, the advice in the thread was great in helping me get started. I ended up on the phone with Jim Rixen and his shop a couple times. Purchased a controller, and a Y-split wiring harness, from Rixen and used it tonight to read and clear codes. I'm still in the middle of the diagnostic process, but was able to read the codes, confirm that the system was locked out, reset the codes and regain access to starting the system. By dusk I was getting new fresh codes ("no flame") and when time allows I will continue the diagnostics.

If someone with a late-model Roadtrek wants more info, I'm happy to send links to several comprehensive troubleshooting manuals, and a pic of how to temporarily attach the diagnostic tool with the Y-split harness under the rig. It's maybe a 5 minute job if you have a ramp or drive the left-front tire onto a 4x4 or similar (taking care to block the wheels, etc).

Would also be interested in the conclusion of S&S's problem solving if he sees this post.

Thanks, -Calvin

I have a 2018 ETREK and cannot get the diesel Alde to work now. The heat/hot water works through the Alde 3010 in electric mode when plugged in but the espar will not fire up now at all in diesel mode. I would be very interested if you have found a fix.

[Calvin T]

Hi Cnairn - we finally resumed work on our Alde/Espar system today in our Roadtrek. We determined that there was air (or at least, no fuel) getting to the Espar unit - and based on others' suggestions, we gently pressurized the fuel tank to get fuel flowing, successfully. Unfortunately after several tries we weren't able to get the Espar unit started before dark; next step is to test the fuel pump (which we can hear trying to pump, it's a loud persistent clicking noise during the startup phase for the Espar unit).

If you're not getting response from the Espar unit (no sound, no diesel odor), from our experience the prior helpful posts about the unit being locked out are correct - we purchased a diagnostic unit from Jim Rixen and have used it (several times) to reset the CPU on the Espar unit which allows the unit to go through the startup sequence. (Our problem is post-reset, where the Espar unit will initiate the startup sequence but not get to ignition.)

If we learn more before it gets too cold to work on it, we'll post additional information. Good luck.

[GeorgeRa]

The following site has is good material for troubleshooting. Any air bubbles in fuel line could prevent pumping. Any small leak on the pump intake side will cause air intake. I have not heard about pressurizing tank to eliminate the problem, usually it is low fuel.

“Pump clicking but no fuel delivered to heater
Check if you have run out of or are simply low on fuel, a tank pick up tube can be 50 mm or more above the tank bottom. This ensures there will be enough fuel left to run the engine and prevents crud in the bottom of the tank from being picked up. On one camper van the tank held diesel for about 250 miles but the heater stopped working after 200 miles.
If the fuel pipes were empty before starting check if purging of air is complete.
Check the fuel lines and connections for air leaks
Check all clips are tight.
Check condition of rubber sleeves, they swell and can become porous as they deteriorate.
Check for blockages in pipes, more details lower on this page.
In very cold weather any water in the fuel can freeze. Most UK fuel sold at the pumps is winterised from September onwards, summer fuel will wax up at relatively mild temperatures.
Check the fuel pick-up pipe, on some non Eberspacher types the tube pushes into the upper part and can have an air leak or it might have fallen off.
Check the fuel filter in the base of the pump.
Remove the pump and bench test it as described on Fuels 2 page.”
https://www.letonkinoisvarnish.co.uk...er_fuel_1.html

[rbaileyroadtrek]

I am a newbie both to the forum and to trekking. I purchased a used 2016 Road Trek CS Adventurous. I also have the diesel heat. Looking at the pictures posted of the controllers, I have the same thing. The Road Trek "service center" here in New Hampshire seem almost clueless to this heater setup with the Esper in tandem with the ALDE. It seems I have a lockout condition with the Esper because the electric heat (which is in the ALDE) works, but I can't get any response from the diesel unit underneath. From bits and pieces I have picked up is that I need some form of controller with he ability to read the error codes from the Esper and do a reset. Does anyone have any information about using the Epser EasyStart Select controller to do this?

[GeorgeRa]

Originally Posted by rbaileyroadtrek

I am a newbie both to the forum and to trekking. I purchased a used 2016 Road Trek CS Adventurous. I also have the diesel heat. Looking at the pictures posted of the controllers, I have the same thing. The Road Trek "service center" here in New Hampshire seem almost clueless to this heater setup with the Esper in tandem with the ALDE. It seems I have a lockout condition with the Esper because the electric heat (which is in the ALDE) works, but I can't get any response from the diesel unit underneath. From bits and pieces I have picked up is that I need some form of controller with he ability to read the error codes from the Esper and do a reset. Does anyone have any information about using the Epser EasyStart Select controller to do this?

As far as I know all Eberspacher/Espar EasyStart units have diagnostics capability. See attached old file page 6, search for a newer one on the Eberspacher site.

[rbaileyroadtrek]

Many thanks. I am going over to the service center tomorrow. I have talked them into letting me onto the shop floor to work with them. Hopefully I will get somewhere with them. If not, I guess I will have bring the RV home and work on it myself. I am past the age that crawling under vehicles to work on them was fun. But I need a working heater system. Luckily I have a shop I can pull the unit in and work warm and on a crawler.

[GeorgeRa]

Originally Posted by rbaileyroadtrek

Many thanks. I am going over to the service center tomorrow. I have talked them into letting me onto the shop floor to work with them. Hopefully I will get somewhere with them. If not, I guess I will have bring the RV home and work on it myself. I am past the age that crawling under vehicles to work on them was fun. But I need a working heater system. Luckily I have a shop I can pull the unit in and work warm and on a crawler.

I would suggest to ask them to extend wiring harness to a more accessible place and connect EasyStart so you can read codes without going under the vehicle.

Espar has limited number of failed starts before going to sleep, in my Espar D5 it is 5 starts. This could happen with low fuel in the tank. Diesel fuel intake is above the bottom of the tank, when I use my heaters, I am always above 1/4 tank full. Having an EasyStart unit in accessible place you can read and clear the code with ease.

[Eclyde]

You need Digimax-D1000 in order to read and clear code. Roadtrak did not wire coach wire loom into heater connector so you need to get Length of Blu wire from heater connector (under coach) to interior of boiler cabinet to splice into 12 v on Digimax scan tool. Risen Enterprises 800 925 6260 can source items for you.

[Eclyde]

Pretty nice rig.

[GeorgeRa]

I had DigiMax D1000 and replaced it with the EasyStart Timer which can control both, my Airtronics D2 and my Hydronic D5. EasyStart controllers are newest from Eberspacher, the Select one for $88 is the least expensive and less expensive than a little ancient but workable DigiMAx 1000.