House A/C Replacement

[Bangorbob]

I ask this on another site but didn't really get many responses, so I will ask here. This is for those who have replaced their cool cat (kat) with a house A/C unit.
1. How long have you had the house AC.
2. How is it working out.

Thanks, Bob

[hbn7hj]

You didn’t ask but replacing a Kool Cat with anything but a Kool Cat is a fool’s errand. The Kool Cat is still available so buy it and put it in. You will have enough trouble changing the thermostat from analog to digital which you must do.

A normal window air conditioner will not work. It has to be a wall air conditioner. A window air conditioner sucks air in from the side, a wall air conditioner sucks air in from the back as does the Kool Cat. There are not many wall air conditioners.

If a new Kool Cat were not available then you have a different argument.

It will reduce the value of your coach if you ever choose to sell. The downward facing cool air vents will not be available on the new install.

Perhaps the lack of an answer is your answer. If you need help converting from analog to digital thermostat let me know.

Just an opinion.

Put in an Easy Start or Soft Start device during the new install.
The analog Kool Cat was 12,000 BTU, the digital one is 10,000 BTU due to a different refrigerant.

[Bangorbob]

Thanks, My wife told me just to get the cool cat. Easy in Easy out. BTW, I've already had mine out to change the solenoid vavle. I just think it is to hot here in Nevada for the ac to work real good.
Bob

[hbn7hj]

We have had a comfortable night after a 113F Hi (can’t remember the Lo) with the Kool Cat. We were on shore power and the A/C ran 24/7 but it provided a good night’s sleep.

[jjrbus]

Hmm, my 02 Roadtrek 200 popular did not have a cool cat, it had a 10K Fedders from the factory. A 10K Fedders window AC! Model A2Q10F2BQ, if you want to look it up to verify.

[hbn7hj]

Kool Cats were used in 2003 and after.

[hbn7hj]

Originally Posted by Bangorbob

Thanks, My wife told me just to get the cool cat. Easy in Easy out.

Better keep that wife!

[Bangorbob]

47 yrs and hopefully a lot more. She's the sensible one.

[TX-Trek]

Hardly a fools errand...I'd never go back to the Dometic.
Zero issues since the install.

https://www.classbforum.com/forums/f...tml#post120827

[Bangorbob]

Originally Posted by TX-Trek

Hardly a fools errand...I'd never go back to the Dometic.
Zero issues since the install.

https://www.classbforum.com/forums/f...tml#post120827

Thanks for replying. I always want to hear both sides of the story before I make a decision. About how many hours did you devote to conversion?

[GroupB]

I replaced my CoolCat with a window ac.

https://www.classbforum.com/forums/f...html#post96806

I wouldn’t call it easy.
I would call it well worth the change.

No estimate on hours spent for the job, but 100% of the hours of use with the new one is pleasant in contrast to nerve racking noise of the CoolCat.

If the CoolCat would have been reliable, I probably wouldn’t have undertaken the replacement. Apparently I have a low threshold for annoying noise, so the result of the random solenoid sticking is a good one for me.

No issue using a window style air conditioner for this application.

There are two types of air conditioners that could be used - window or wall. The name defining the location of the installation. In the Roadtrek, the installation is in a cavity. Either type of unit will require air barriers to prevent short circuiting of the condenser cooling air. The barriers channel the air to exit (and ambient air to enter) the ac through the cavity thus minimizing the short circuit. I replaced the original barriers because they were warped and the rubber gasketing was failing.

Cool, comfortable, and quiet. However there is another change needed for this job. The thermostat is tied into the CoolCat controls such that a new heat only thermostat will be needed for the furnace. These discussions are also on this forum.

[TX-Trek]

Originally Posted by Bangorbob

Thanks for replying. I always want to hear both sides of the story before I make a decision. About how many hours did you devote to conversion?

Bob, I spent a couple days leisurely looking at unit size, based on minimum 10k BTU. The unit I have was the right size and 12k BTU.

Total install took me 4 days, but not 4 full days. I'm retired and take everything a bit slower, no need for a rush. I think - based on moderate skill level - this could be done in a couple of full steady-work days.

The actual R & R part wasn't really that big of a deal. As I went along though, I spent time figuring stuff out, such as the revised thermostat and better intake/exhaust air segregation, for example. Additional time was needed to troubleshoot the furnace control board as a separate issue, so I don't include that.

One advantage you may have is from posted info like mine and others that can help roadmap the how-to, so that might save some time.

I get it about deciding whether to replace with Dometic or a window unit, that's your call. For us, the window unit is quiet, excellent cooling, far lower cost, and easily replaceable if in the middle of a trip. I also like the remote thermostat that can be placed anywhere in the van. Details in the install posting.

Good luck with your decision.

[Bangorbob]

I thought the window AC sucks the air out of the room and blows cold in, whereas a thru the wall sucks air from the outside (like cool cat) and blows cold into the room.

[GroupB]

They both recirculate room air. Through the wall doesn’t rely on using window space. A window unit wouldn’t work in a wall because the side vents would be covered.

[Bangorbob]

Am I reading Trek and GroupB post correctly. One used a window unit and one used a wall unit?

[jjrbus]

I replaced the well running Fedders with an LG9500 dual inverter. The Fedders sounded like a vacuum cleaner running! Not loud enough to drown out the Onan. The LG is not a simple install and requires some mods.

The LG works well in my 2002 Roadtrek 200 but I have dead spots and experimenting with fans. The air needs to circulate better. The dinette area get s too warm during the day.

[GroupB]

Window. GroupB

[Bangorbob]

Thanks to all. I hope the AC last a couple more months. I will probably tackle this project in the fall/winter time when the temps aren't in the 100's.

[Mike Bee]

When we bought our 97 RT170 in 2016 they replaced the Fedders with a LG ac/with remote . The LG was less than $200. Works fine but as mentioned the two vents in the dinette are not hooked up.

Mike Bee

[RT-NY]

Originally Posted by Mike Bee

When we bought our 97 RT170 in 2016 they replaced the Fedders with a LG ac/with remote . The LG was less than $200.

Do you have the LG model number that they used? The previous owner of my 1999 RT 170 removed the Fedders and built a storage area in that space, but I would like to put an air conditioner in there. I am not quite sure how he got the Fedders out -- it looks like the original metal housing is still in place so I guess he pulled it out from front somehow.