Hot Water/Warm/Cold/Warm/Hot/Cold??

[jbsedona]

Dear Maestros of Machines: We have just returned from our FIRST venture of 3 nights on the road. Our 2015 RT 109 Pop worked GREAT. BUT: when using the shower/hot water: cool water at first: then warm, then hot....for only a moment; then back to warm, for a bit, then a spurt of "cool" followed by more "warm" and a spot of hot. Would run out of water in the boondocks if I waited to see if a full stream of hot water would eventually flow. ANY IDEAS? we were on Shore power; propane fed; never had the "reset" light pop on???...no sputters,all other water systems full pressure.. (no air in line to detect) and no decent shave...Thoughts or things to check would be appreciated...hate to lug it back down to the dealer who was not on top of things at the time he delivered the unit...Oh, Suburban heater...thanks guys...Jim, Sedona AZ

[WJones]

Jim,

I had a similar problem and it turned out to be the outside shower. Both hot and cold valves were open but the valve (button) on the shower head was closed. So this in effect connected the hot and cold supplies together. If there was a bit more pressure on the hot side, I would get hot water in both the hot and cold lines in the inside shower. Same thing if the pressure was a bit higher on the cold side.

William
Sherbrooke, Quebec
Roadtrek 2000C200P

[markopolo]

Could be what William pointed out.

It also sounds somewhat normal in my experience.

I would first make sure the air gap in the water heater is adequate. You'd need to allow some air into the water heater and allow some water to get out of it.

Check what William said, then make sure the air gap in the water heater is reestablished. If no improvement the consider either upgrading the water pump or adding a pressure tank to even out the flow.

Pressure accumulator: http://www.classbforum.com/phpBB2/vi...=22167&#p22167

On demand - Variable Speed pump: http://www.classbforum.com/phpBB2/vi...=22176&#p22176

[JudiD]

Is your hot water system "on demand" with no hot water tank? If so, there are some tricks to making it work properly. I learned this from experience.....

[jbsedona]

Dr. Marcopolo: Thanks all, but with respect to "air gap"/"water out"...how do you suggest that be done? I've got the rig in the drive; so it's at my mercy...we're not "freezing" so I thought I'd put some FRESH water in; turn on the hot water heater: then the water pump, and snoop around...but the "air" gap threw me a curve...I thought the "sputtering" when you first de-winterized the "hot tap side" was to get air out of the line...advise when able...

[markopolo]

Pump off
water heater off (and cooled down)

Surest way would be to drain the water from the water heater by removing the anode rod.

You could try opening the pressure/temperature safety valve on the water heater to let air in and opening the hot tap on the outside shower to let water out. (Pump off and water heater off and cooled down).

You might be able to hear air being drawn in at the water heater if gravity is doing its thing.

[jbsedona]

Thanks Doc: Gravity is usually pretty reliable...I'm thinking the outside shower levers/faucets are somehow in the loop...will poke around and advise, many thanks to all for the input...everything else works as advertised...so I'm guessing this is "pilot error".............jb

[markopolo]

Hopefully it helps. If not, then an upgrade to a better pump might be the easiest fix. Check with your dealer first to confirm that there's no plumbing problem causing it - your RV is still under warranty.

I get the cold / hot / warm water in my shower too.

[RT.SS]

Also check the water heater bypass mode is off and the valves are in correct positions.