Heater

[organize4u]

Hi all,

The propane heater in my 2008 190 Roadtrek Popular only blows cold air. You can hear it trying to light but nothing. Is there a switch somewhere that needs to be flipped? The stove and HW heater work.

As always, I thank you for any advice.

Marie

[booster]

Originally Posted by organize4u

Hi all,

The propane heater in my 2008 190 Roadtrek Popular only blows cold air. You can hear it trying to light but nothing. Is there a switch somewhere that needs to be flipped? The stove and HW heater work.

As always, I thank you for any advice.

Marie

Our 07 did that also a few years ago, but with the latest version of "quiet" Suburban furnace I had installed quite some time ago.


It was the control board, as are many things like this are with Suburban.


The bummer is that you have to pull it out to check where the problem really is so a PITA that is very hard to do while on the road.

[GallenH]

When I got our 97PW from my father-in-law back in 2016 the Suburban furnace wasn't working. A RV tech checked it and it turned out to be the control board as booster mentioned. Has worked fine ever since. Don't know how to troubleshoot it, however, since I didn't do the diagnosis/repair myself.

[hbn7hj]

You should carry with you a spare control board and sail switch at the minimum. While you have it out you can make sure you get the correct parts. Sounds like the propane is not turning on.

[GallenH]

hbn7hj: out of curiosity, do you have to pull the unit to put in the sail switch or is that accessible from the front with the unit in place?

[N147JK]

Could be a number of things.. thermostat, sail switch, over-temp sensor, ignitor, even the gas valve itself. One thing you can try is smelling for propane gas at the exhaust outlet on the outside of the van during the time it's trying to light, that is assuming the fan is running. If you do smell gas, then the valve and safety switches are working and you may only need an ignitor. I'd start there - start simple and work your way further into the system. Regardless, you'll most likely have to open the furnace up, trace wiring, replace parts. You may or may not want to get that involved.

[jrobe]

I knew nothing about my Suburban water heater (I don't have a Suburban furnace) but with the help of youtube, it was fairly easy to troubleshoot and replace parts to repair it on two occasions. Youtube is your friend. The parts were readily available (on amazon as I recall) and pretty easy to replace if you can get at them without too much trouble. As I recall I replaced the control board once and the thermostat on another occasion so you really need to troubleshoot the problem. If I would have had to pay for labor, they would have been pretty expensive repairs. Whenever something dies on my RV (and it will), I head to youtube first to learn how works and how to fix it.

[N147JK]

Originally Posted by jrobe

The parts were readily available (on amazon as I recall)

Another great source for parts, and they have service and troubleshooting manuals online as well.

https://pdxrvwholesale.com/t/suburban-furnace-parts

[hbn7hj]

Originally Posted by GallenH

hbn7hj: out of curiosity, do you have to pull the unit to put in the sail switch or is that accessible from the front with the unit in place?

Yes. The sail switch is way at the back. I think you can switch out the ignitor without removal but that is about it for maintenance.

Sail switch is probably OK for Ms. Marie since it sparks. Control board isn’t operating the propane valve.

[jrobe]

This is basically what you have to do to troubleshoot the furnace. When I had to replace the circuit board on my Suburban water heater (probably the most common repairs for their appliances), there was an upgraded circuit board that looked heavier and more robust than the old one. I don't know if this applies to their furnaces but I think they were using lousy circuit boards on their appliances for awhile.

It is easy to test the circuit board with a voltmeter as he does in this video. If there is 12 volts going in and nothing coming out, that is the problem. It takes about 2 min to replace that board and transfer over the wires to the new one.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bgq7NStsK4Y

[hbn7hj]

Yes, we all have a test bench with power and propane. I just fire the parts cannon till it works. I carry spares of the control board and all sensors and switches.

If Ms. Marie was nearby we would fix her right up. The video shows a different heater than she has.

Usually I’m repairing someone else’s, not mine. A backup source of heat is wise. I have three ways to heat, four if I bring the catalytic heater.

[booster]

Originally Posted by hbn7hj

Yes, we all have a test bench with power and propane. I just fire the parts cannon till it works. I carry spares of the control board and all sensors and switches.

If Ms. Marie was nearby we would fix her right up. The video shows a different heater than she has.

Usually I’m repairing someone else’s, not mine. A backup source of heat is wise. I have three ways to heat, four if I bring the catalytic heater.

I tested ours without propane on the bench. You can just check for voltage at the gas valve with a meter and listen/feel for it activating. If you don't get voltage it is the board, if you do it is likely the valve or one of the safety switches into the board.

[ChicagoTom]

Ex HVAC Tech for what it's worth. I doubt it's the control board. Take the cover off (Inside) even though you hear the igniter electrode sparking, try cleaning it and while your in there, look to the rear left and vac the best you can. The sail switch is a common issue with some of the newer models, and can often be cleared up with a vac (Maybe not 100%) and a blast of some canned air. I carry spare igniters for the fridge, water heater and furnace. All very easy to change. Also, may sound crazy, but fire up the chassis, unless you're already plugged in, that gives the blower motor an extra kick and can possibly resolve a stuck sail switch. Good luck

[organize4u]

Lots of info. Thanks.. Where exactly is the control panel?

[N147JK]

Originally Posted by organize4u

Lots of info. Thanks.. Where exactly is the control panel?

There is no control panel. The circuit board that controls the furnace is inside the unit. The problem is not likely the board. More than likely it's a safety switch, the gas value (also not likely), or maybe the thermostat.

Read the posts above and follow the suggestions - it's easy to determine whether the valve is working and gas is flowing or not.

[booster]

Originally Posted by N147JK

There is no control panel. The circuit board that controls the furnace is inside the unit. The problem is not likely the board. More than likely it's a safety switch, the gas value (also not likely), or maybe the thermostat.

Read the posts above and follow the suggestions - it's easy to determine whether the valve is working and gas is flowing or not.

MY guess would be that because of the claim that that that that igniter is firing is that the safety switches are OK because they have to happen first, before the pilot valve opens and the burner ingnito lights the pilot.


To me that would say that the problem is it the downstream items like the gas valve or control board.


The fan is said to come on, the striker is said to activate would support this conclusion.

[organize4u]

Thanks all. All of this is putting my brain in a know, ha, ha. I'll keep this info and see if someone can help me. I need one of you guys in my back pocket
Marie
Austin, TX

[Dcarm1]

When I had a similar problem it turned out to be that I had opened the valve on the propane tank too fast. There is a safety shutoff that will close the valve because it assumes a leak if opened too fast. I just had to close the valve manually and re-open slowly. Then all was good. So, if it is not working try the stove top if you have one. If burners are getting no gas then go to valve and close and then open sloooooowwwwlllyyy.

[TX-Trek]

I had similar issue with cold air only. I did go ahead and verify sail switch and high limit switch circuits were ok, and that propane was showing up to the gas valve. Gas valve solenoid also checked out and of course the first check was to verify 12v to the control board from the thermostat.
Issue was with the control board. I replaced it with a Dinosaur Electronics plug and play board, well made and incorporates a 5A fuse to protect the board. Cost was competitive with a replacement mfg board.

[organize4u]

TX-Trek, where in Texas do you live? I am in Austin. Depending on the distance, would you be willing to help me?
Thanks,
Marie