G30 Front Bump Stops

[fwdanielson]

I ordered a front Timbren kit for my 1995 Roadtrek built on a Chevy G30. All of the references I can find online show a front bump stop with a rubber tang that locks in to a slot as in this item-

http://www.napaonline.com/napa/en/p/...024_0223997500



The problem is that mine seems to have a metal base plate on the bump stop and there is no way that I can find to twist or knock it off. I've managed to cut one down to the base plate but that didn't reveal anything new. Now I have one missing bump stop and no apparent way to replace it. Of course the Timbren instructions simply say to remove the factory bump stop with no detail on how that is done. None of the printed or online service manuals I have consulted even mention the bump stop.

Here is what mine looked like earlier today.

G30-BumpStop-Before.jpg

And here is what it looked like after a sweaty frustrating afternoon and some time with a sawzall.

G30-BumpStop-After.jpg

There is almost no access to the control arm boss where the bump stop is mounted. If I stick my finger in the small opening facing the spring there is something in there but it is hard to tell. There is no access hole in the bottom of the control arm to get to a bolt head if one was in there. At this point I'm probably going to have to find a junkyard control arm to either figure out what the deal is or replace the one I may have just messed up.

Any wisdom from the group would be much appreciated.

[markopolo]

That sucks. Everything I see on Google looks like press to fit to me.

I think the control arm on your van looks like this: 71 96 Chevrolet G30 Van GMC G35 G35 G3500 Van G3500 Control Arm 10904 TRW New | eBay

IIRC the rear bump stops on my '97 had a "T" slot to back the the bump stop out. It took quite a bit of prying to get them started. It does not look like a "T" slot on your front. The fronts on mine are different than yours as that series of van changed in late '96.

[markopolo]

There's a note on Moog's site (G20 not G30): Fitment for MOOG-K6607

Fits Left or Right Side. Press In Type. Bolt On Type Will use a Different Part Number

But no part # for the "Bolt On Type" they mentionto lookup

If you raised the front and put it on stands so that the coil uncompresses a bit maybe you'll be able to see what is in there.

[fwdanielson]

Thanks for the research, it really helps. I think my control arm looks exactly like the one in the auction which appears that you could press in one of the all rubber stops or pass a stud through the slot and bolt one on. It's hard to tell from the picture but that mounting boss does have a small opening on the side towards the spring so it wouldn't be impossible, but quite difficult, to get a nut through there.

After sleeping on it I've decided that this project is at the point of no return so I'm going to try and either cut or pry up that metal plate that was the bottom of the bump stop to try and get access to the mounting stud that I believe is under it. If the stud can be exposed it can be cut with a sawzall. The Timbren bump stop has a T bolt that slips in to the slot so as long as there is an opening for the Timbren bolt I should be good.

As soon as the rain lets up I'll be in the driveway cursing and swinging a hammer. If nothing else it is good therapy.

[booster]

A bump stop with a steel plate on the bottom is nearly always a bonded rubber style, not a pull though. The rubber is chemically bonded to the plate, that has a bolt in it that goes through the control arm. My old Roadmaster wagon is that way. I had the A arms off, so I could see them well on the bench, and even though the car is nearly rust free, you could still barely see the nut for the bump stop, and getting a wrench on was even worse. You very, very, likely have a nut on the underside with a clearance hole to get to it. Take mirror and look, with a trouble light laying on the floor to light up into the hole.

Prying will probably not hurt anything, but not get you anywhere either. I have removed this type of bump stop by just taking a die grinder to the plate, after cutting off the rubber. When you see the area where the bolt is just keep grinding until it fall out the bottom. A GM dealer should be able to get you the right parts based on VIN lookup. Aftermarket is very poor for stuff like this as they don't have the information on all the variations.

[fwdanielson]

Booster you are right. There is a nut under there and if I had the control arm off and a 19mm wrench with just the right offset it could probably be unbolted. With the control arm in the vehicle that is not going to happen.

Today I got medieval on the old bump stop plate with a hammer and cold chisel and managed to pry up one end of the plate and break off the tang that keeps it from rotating.
G30-BumpStop-PartiallyRemoved.jpg

After a bit of sawzall action the half that was sticking up was cut off and I was able to shoot a little WD-40 through the slot at the threads. Some more hammer and chisel work got the remaining piece to rotate counter clockwise and then the threads let loose and I was able to unscrew it and fish the long nut out of the bottom with a magnet.

The battle scars were cleaned and hit with a shot of black rustoleum and it was ready for the Timbren.
G30-BumpStop-Boss-Repainted.jpg

The Timbren installed easily enough. The one catch is the mounting plate is angled so I made a mark of the high spot with a red wax pencil in order to make keeping it aligned easy. Here it is all installed and ready to go.
G30-Timbren-Intalled.jpg

When I get the other one installed I'll measure to see if it raises the front end at all and come back with a report on the difference in ride.

[rowiebowie]

Originally Posted by fwdanielson

Booster you are right. There is a nut under there and if I had the control arm off and a 19mm wrench with just the right offset it could probably be unbolted. With the control arm in the vehicle that is not going to happen.

Today I got medieval on the old bump stop plate with a hammer and cold chisel and managed to pry up one end of the plate and break off the tang that keeps it from rotating.
Attachment 3466

After a bit of sawzall action the half that was sticking up was cut off and I was able to shoot a little WD-40 through the slot at the threads. Some more hammer and chisel work got the remaining piece to rotate counter clockwise and then the threads let loose and I was able to unscrew it and fish the long nut out of the bottom with a magnet.

The battle scars were cleaned and hit with a shot of black rustoleum and it was ready for the Timbren.
Attachment 3467

The Timbren installed easily enough. The one catch is the mounting plate is angled so I made a mark of the high spot with a red wax pencil in order to make keeping it aligned easy. Here it is all installed and ready to go.
Attachment 3468

When I get the other one installed I'll measure to see if it raises the front end at all and come back with a report on the difference in ride.

Wow, good job. You are tenacious!

When I started to read your paragraph that starts "The battle scars . . " the first thought in my mind involved blood and torn skin which is how my battles usually end.