Fridge Question

[GallenH]

I've had a thermostat for my old Dometic evap laying around for a while so I decided to pull the fridge and replace the defunct one. I've seen people who replace them w/o pulling but I don't see how w/o great effort and frustration. Anyways, not too hard of a job and I'm trying to button everything up. So here's the question.

Where the capillary tube from the thermostat goes into the fridge there's a blob of stuff they put on to seal the opening. Pic is below. Looks like some kind of putty by it's color and the fact it was obviously formed around the capillary in field. It's not soft now (fridge dates from 1997!). I'm thinking I could just use some silicone sealant instead. Does that sound ok?

BTW: This is my hail mary. If my propane sniffer detects any leaks around the thermostat, the fridge is hitting the bin. Likewise if this doesn't solve my problem which is that it was cooling on max no matter what I set the stat on and freezes my lettuce, grapes, etc.

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[Rlum]

Originally Posted by GallenH

I've had a thermostat for my old Dometic evap laying around for a while so I decided to pull the fridge and replace the defunct one. I've seen people who replace them w/o pulling but I don't see how w/o great effort and frustration. Anyways, not too hard of a job and I'm trying to button everything up. So here's the question.

Where the capillary tube from the thermostat goes into the fridge there's a blob of stuff they put on to seal the opening. Pic is below. Looks like some kind of putty by it's color and the fact it was obviously formed around the capillary in field. It's not soft now (fridge dates from 1997!). I'm thinking I could just use some silicone sealant instead. Does that sound ok?

BTW: This is my hail mary. If my propane sniffer detects any leaks around the thermostat, the fridge is hitting the bin. Likewise if this doesn't solve my problem which is that it was cooling on max no matter what I set the stat on and freezes my lettuce, grapes, etc.

Attachment 14303

I think that stuff is duct seal. You can purchase on Home Depot. When I did my 3 way conversion to 12 volt compressor using a Vitrifirgo kit. Vitrifrigo recommended this stuff to seal the hole from compressor to evaporator plate. Stuff is supposed to seal without getting hard? Maybe after 30 plus years, it does eventually become dry/hard?

[hbn7hj]

It is called butyl tape or caulk cord weather seal. Drop by and you can have all you need.

[GallenH]

Hey, thanks! Looks like you're back just in time for the cool down. I actually have both the tape and some cord left over from other projects so I'm good.
Would be nice to touch base sometime. I'll PM you later.

Glenn

[RT-NY]

Originally Posted by GallenH

if this doesn't solve my problem which is that it was cooling on max no matter what I set the stat on and freezes my lettuce, grapes, etc.

So, did the new thermostat fix this problem?

[GallenH]

I haven't put it back in yet. But the thermostat does cut in and out on 120v so that's perhaps a good sign. Since I'm running on LP when camping the big thing will be if it shifts from high (cooling) flame to low (pilot flame). My 2310 is old and that's how they regulate the temp. It doesn't have a control board to reignite on demand.

[RT-NY]

Originally Posted by GallenH

I haven't put it back in yet. But the thermostat does cut in and out on 120v so that's perhaps a good sign.

Did the old one not do that? If so, that sounds like a very good sign! Please keep us posted when you get it back in.

[GallenH]

No. The old thermo read 120v on the terminal block to the heating element regardless of the thermo setting.

[GallenH]

I just finished testing on LP. Set thermostat on MAX. Got a strong blue flame and used my LP/gas tester to verify no leaks. Once fridge dropped to 40º I turned thermostat to "1" and flame went down to a lower level so it appears that the new thermostat is doing what it's supposed to do on LP. Next I need to take a November trip and field test.

[RT-NY]

Originally Posted by GallenH

I just finished testing on LP. Set thermostat on MAX. Got a strong blue flame and used my LP/gas tester to verify no leaks. Once fridge dropped to 40º I turned thermostat to "1" and flame went down to a lower level so it appears that the new thermostat is doing what it's supposed to do on LP. Next I need to take a November trip and field test.

Glad to hear it! Have you tested it on 120v and on 12v power?

[GallenH]

I'll test 120v next. Same procedure but I'll verify cutout with a voltmeter at the 120v heating element leads. I don't think I'll bother with 12v. Some say that it's not in the thermostat circuit but my factory wiring diagram disagrees. When I run on 12v I'm going to just set the thermostat to max since even then it will struggle to hold temp.

[GallenH]

Just an update. I spent the holiday week over on the Colorado river. Thermostat performing well. I found that I had to up the setting during the day and put it lower at night but after a few days found that I could keep it around 37-40 degrees. Still harder to control than a compressor, I suspect but manageable. Mine is the OLD 2310 model so perhaps it's also better on newer ones with the control board.