First a cracked gray tank, now a cracked black tank...

[Bud]

Originally Posted by GeorgeRa

My experience with black tanks was OK, just didn't like dumping and cleaning afterwords. I agree, lubrication was important, I often use "Drain Valve Lubricant" and occasionally vaseline directly on the valve. But, no valve no maintenance .

George, your welcome. You've gone from a smile to a big grin with those two posts.

Hey, is this a great and fun forum or what.

Bud

[JDBrown]

Originally Posted by Bud

Darn, thanks George. I just had not thought about it, realized it. Also have 2 of those "perfect valve"(s) associated with my grey and back tanks, 13 years now. Lubrication makes a difference. And there noticeably less use vs a small cassette thing.

Bud

13 years, wow! What do you lubricate the valves with?

[Bud]

Hi JDBrown,

I don't recall a dump-valve thread all these years concerning dump-valve longevity. Maybe someone will comment on that. I'm not learned about this like some others here, so a grain of salt here:

I have used one container of a commercial rv product for dump-valve lubrication long ago. Otherwise I have used mineral/baby oil after the dump. WARNING: Some think that mineral oil is not appropriate and will damage the valves. Heck if I know. I had already been using it for quite awhile.

My guess is that while traveling: Dumping then driving off, the valves kind of get lubricated right away anyway. Still use the oil with every dump. After dumping at home is what matters more, is my guess. I drain both tanks well, then use the mineral oil. Both valve handles seem to need the same force to open and close over the years.

Bud

[JDBrown]

Originally Posted by Bud

Hi JDBrown,

I don't recall a dump-valve thread all these years concerning dump-valve longevity. Maybe someone will comment on that. I'm not learned about this like some others here, so a grain of salt here:

I have used one container of a commercial rv product for dump-valve lubrication long ago. Otherwise I have used mineral/baby oil after the dump. WARNING: Some think that mineral oil is not appropriate and will damage the valves. Heck if I know. I had already been using it for quite awhile.

My guess is that while traveling: Dumping then driving off, the valves kind of get lubricated right away anyway. Still use the oil with every dump. After dumping at home is what matters more, is my guess. I drain both tanks well, then use the mineral oil. Both valve handles seem to need the same force to open and close over the years.

Bud

How much oil do you use in each tank after dumping? It sounds like your experience with it has been pretty successful.

[Bud]

[QUOTE=JDBrown;109503]How much oil do you use in each tank after dumping? It sounds like your experience with it has been pretty successful.[

Maybe 5 ounces or so.

It has been years since I have read anything about this subject, dump-valves. As I recall some think that the dump valve rod needs lubrication, so I did that. I gave it up maybe 6 years ago, and then deliberately remembered to feel how much force is needed to open the valve. I have not used them since last September, long as I've ever gone. Thanks jdbrown, I'll need to test them soon. Don't want to have an InterBlog Episode. Glad the two of you posted, may save me. Thank you.

Bud

[JDBrown]

Update: I took the RT to the mechanic last week, and had the exhaust system checked out. The whole exhaust system is clear, and the temperatures are normal.

There were some rusted-off screws that are supposed to help secure the sheet metal heat shield, and without them it was resting on the catalytic converter. Because it wasn't securely held, it was able to swing around and touch the black tank. So, it appears that the heat shield conducted heat from the catalytic converter, and then swung over and touched/rested against the black tank. That's the best theory I've got at this point, anyway.

The mechanic also diagnosed my vacuum leak: it's in the vent selector switch. I've got the common problem of the vents switching to defrost when the engine's under heavy load. I'll have to deal with that one later, once I've finished with the holding tanks.

My initial patch job on the black tank didn't quite work out--it didn't adhere properly to the tank, so I pulled it off (the fact that I was able to just pull it off illustrates how poorly it adhered). Instead, I ended up heat welding patches on with a heat gun and a cheap soldering iron. First time trying something like this, but it went okay. Then, just for my own peace of mind, I coated it all in an ABS slurry (ABS shavings dissolved in medium ABS cement), pressed in a strip of fiberglass window screen, and covered it all over with more ABS slurry. It's been sitting on my back lawn full of water for over an hour with no sign of any leaks, so I think I'll be able to start reinstalling everything this evening.

[Average_alice]

Originally Posted by InterBlog

My concern is not a TMI concern. My concern is that some "alternate" toilet suggestions are not intellectually honest. I am not accusing you of being that way - but I've seen it time and time again on multiple forums: ideology eclipsing logistics. Where are people who are using these toilets dumping their urine?! I still don't know because almost none of them will 'fess up. Is it being discharged directly to the environment in an uncontrolled manner? In many scenarios, I think it must be, because I cannot detect any other alternative.

It's one thing to be surrounded by tens of thousands of acres of woods where urine could be distributed naturally and would not impact the environment. But I'm afraid that a lot of the vanners are simply dumping it in ditches in more populated areas. Total nitrogen (TN) in urine is around 9,000 mg/L - it is not without its own pollution issues. It is not the pure, innocent non-waste substance that many "alternate" toilet proponents declare it to be.

So just to clarify, our solution - using a portapotty for urine only and putting the TP in a bag- does dilute the urine when we flush. We would never dump this improperly. And again we only pour it around plants when we’re remote/dispersed camping, and never near a body of water. Some people consider it fertilizer.

[Average_alice]

Originally Posted by JDBrown

Update: I took the RT to the mechanic last week, and had the exhaust system checked out. The whole exhaust system is clear, and the temperatures are normal.

There were some rusted-off screws that are supposed to help secure the sheet metal heat shield, and without them it was resting on the catalytic converter. Because it wasn't securely held, it was able to swing around and touch the black tank. So, it appears that the heat shield conducted heat from the catalytic converter, and then swung over and touched/rested against the black tank. That's the best theory I've got at this point, anyway.

The mechanic also diagnosed my vacuum leak: it's in the vent selector switch. I've got the common problem of the vents switching to defrost when the engine's under heavy load. I'll have to deal with that one later, once I've finished with the holding tanks.

My initial patch job on the black tank didn't quite work out--it didn't adhere properly to the tank, so I pulled it off (the fact that I was able to just pull it off illustrates how poorly it adhered). Instead, I ended up heat welding patches on with a heat gun and a cheap soldering iron. First time trying something like this, but it went okay. Then, just for my own peace of mind, I coated it all in an ABS slurry (ABS shavings dissolved in medium ABS cement), pressed in a strip of fiberglass window screen, and covered it all over with more ABS slurry. It's been sitting on my back lawn full of water for over an hour with no sign of any leaks, so I think I'll be able to start reinstalling everything this evening.

Another forum member sent his grey tank out for plastic welding somewhere so he could fit a new rear sway bar in. There’s the harbor freight plastic welding iron too , $17.00, and YouTube videos on its use....maybe you used it? Amazing commitment on this huge project! Hope it holds!

[themexicandoctor]

There is a company out in Fontana area called INCA Plastics - they will fabricate tanks for you if you need them.

I was almost ready to have them fabricate a black tank that used the space of the grey & black so I would have 33 plus gallons that would reduce my visiting Dump Stations to once every 3 - 4 weeks verusu every 9-10 days for a single person.

I am an expert at dumping the black tank but someone has always been there before you & left it less than hygenic so the other day in a fit of anger or wisdom I took the toilet off, threw it away & put on a 5.5 gallon Theford Porta Potti.

Plus with Class B Roadtreks for sure, there is a lot of magic & water needed to flush the tanks at most dump Stations.

No more toilet water leaks at the back but twice as many stops at construction toilets, public or business bathrooms or someone's home to dump but so much easier & even though my vehicle has been lifted*, those valves always seem to go bad every year. You can use dump Stations & it only takes 30 - 180 seconds including cleaning.

NO MORE EXPOSURE to dirty dump sites.

NO MORE VALVE REPAIRS.

NO MORE HUNTING DUMP STATIONS & BEING DISGUSTED WHEN YOU FIND THEM.

*My vehicle is super lifted; https://www.classbforum.com/forums/f...ades-7607.html

[themexicandoctor]

http://www.incaplastics.com

Above is the contact info, they are in Adelanto, CA