Engel SR70 in 07 Roadtrek 190

[ChicagoTom]

I replaced like for like, another RM2354 and couldn't be happier. Just got back from Arizona 100 degree days and the freezer kept our ice cream solid and the beverages were cold. Too many jump on the compressor, because they don't understand how to operate the Dometic. I'll leave it at that. Posted many times how to make it efficient, but feel like I'm beating a dead horse. Ex HVAC Tech for what it's worth.

[peteco]

Originally Posted by ChicagoTom

I replaced like for like, another RM2354 and couldn't be happier. Just got back from Arizona 100 degree days and the freezer kept our ice cream solid and the beverages were cold. Too many jump on the compressor, because they don't understand how to operate the Dometic. I'll leave it at that. Posted many times how to make it efficient, but feel like I'm beating a dead horse. Ex HVAC Tech for what it's worth.

I too replaced my RM2554 with another. I know how to make it work efficiently and am ok with it in general. It is flaky at times (temp goes up for no reason, could be thermostat or board) and it seems more sensitive to off-level than the old one . If it fails I will likely bite the bullet and go compressor. Also heard Norcold is getting out of absorption fridge business. Dometic will raise prices when there is no competition.

[RT-NY]

Originally Posted by peteco

I too replaced my RM2554 with another. I know how to make it work efficiently and am ok with it in general. It is flaky at times (temp goes up for no reason, could be thermostat or board) and it seems more sensitive to off-level than the old one . If it fails I will likely bite the bullet and go compressor. Also heard Norcold is getting out of absorption fridge business. Dometic will raise prices when there is no competition.

Originally Posted by ChicagoTom

I replaced like for like, another RM2354 and couldn't be happier. Just got back from Arizona 100 degree days and the freezer kept our ice cream solid and the beverages were cold. Too many jump on the compressor, because they don't understand how to operate the Dometic. I'll leave it at that. Posted many times how to make it efficient, but feel like I'm beating a dead horse. Ex HVAC Tech for what it's worth.

My RM2310 must be more than 25 years old and it is still working great (though I think I might need a new thermostat). If I ever do need a replacement, I am currently inclined to stick with what I have and just buy a refurbished cooling unit and put it in myself.

[peteco]

Originally Posted by RT-NY

My RM2310 must be more than 25 years old and it is still working great (though I think I might need a new thermostat). If I ever do need a replacement, I am currently inclined to stick with what I have and just buy a refurbished cooling unit and put it in myself.

Another option: Let Leon at National RV refrigeration rebuild your unit. I have talked to him a couple times and was very impressed with what he had to say. Reviews are excellent also. I would have traveled from Virginia to Indiana to have him either rebuild mine or replace with one of his scratch & dent units. But Covid prevented that and I ended up replacing the unit with a new one.

[Sensfan]

Two way refrigeration has worked well for us for more than ten years. Our 2012 190 RT Ranger came with a two way dual voltage 31 cubic foot NORCOLD DC0788B. Our cabin batteries are two 6 volt 220AH AGMs; we do not have solar. Under normal conditions, while away from shore power, we get 3-4 days between charges. For us, normal means moderate outside air temperatures most days and nights, parking the fridge side of the RV out of the sun, frugal use of the electrical system, e.g. staying away from the micro-wave and inverter, and charging electronics using the truck 12v battery. The NORCOLD temp is set as high as possible to just maintain the freezer's efficiency. We replaced the door seal in 2019 and treat it at the start and end of every season. Sorry, can't provide the exact daily consumption average as we do not have an accurate battery monitor.

[GallenH]

Originally Posted by RT-NY

My RM2310 must be more than 25 years old and it is still working great (though I think I might need a new thermostat). If I ever do need a replacement, I am currently inclined to stick with what I have and just buy a refurbished cooling unit and put it in myself.

I just started the process of replacing the thermostat in my RM2310 by ordering the part on Amazon. The easy part of the process! In this unit the thermostat when on LP is responsible for shifting the burner to low flame (pilot) when temp is achieved and back to high when cooling is needed. My current one never makes the shift to pilot. Freezing temps in fridge (mid 20s). MCs product numbers match Dometics with the exception of MC at the end. We'll see.

[RT-NY]

Originally Posted by GallenH

I just started the process of replacing the thermostat in my RM2310 by ordering the part on Amazon. The easy part of the process! In this unit the thermostat when on LP is responsible for shifting the burner to low flame (pilot) when temp is achieved and back to high when cooling is needed. My current one never makes the shift to pilot. Freezing temps in fridge (mid 20s). MCs product numbers match Dometics with the exception of MC at the end. We'll see.

GallenH - Do you have the link for the Amazon part you ordered? I might order one myself. Have you seen the following video? It shows the steps in detail for the thermostat in these older models with a capillary tube (rather than a thermistor). It does not look too difficult at all. Please keep us updated as you proceed!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fjTloEDB6I0

[GallenH]

Originally Posted by RT-NY

GallenH - Do you have the link for the Amazon part you ordered? I might order one myself. Have you seen the following video? It shows the steps in detail for the thermostat in these older models with a capillary tube (rather than a thermistor). It does not look too difficult at all. Please keep us updated as you proceed!

Here it is: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I don't know what documentation you have. I still have the parts diagram/list which gives the Dometic part numbers. That's how I know that MC's part number is the same. I watched the video. Thanks. I'm not going to try to do this with the fridge in the RV. I've pulled it once and it's pretty easy to get out (especially with a helper). Besides I've always wanted to add insulation around the unit. Much easier to do with the fridge out. I'll also give flue and burner a good cleaning, probably try to get some contact cleaner into the 3-way switch assembly, test the heating elements, maybe put on a new themocouple. That's about a $150 investment. I might....might...put on a reconditioned set of cooling tubes. I'll have to take a close look at their condition. I've also thought about a small, ignition switched inverter that would run the fridge on 120v while driving. But that's only a thought and doesn't have to be done at the same time.

[RT-NY]

Originally Posted by GallenH

Here it is: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I've also thought about a small, ignition switched inverter that would run the fridge on 120v while driving.

Thanks!

What would be the advantage to running on 120v rather than DC while driving?

[GallenH]

Originally Posted by RT-NY

Thanks!

What would be the advantage to running on 120v rather than DC while driving?

On the RM2310 the 12v element is 125w and produces only "staying power." It's usually ok but not if you're opening the fridge when on the road like we usually do. I'm hoping that the 120v element, which is 165W would provide more cooling power, somewhat equivalent to when you have it on 120v electric shore power. It seems like it should but I haven't heard from anyone on the list who's actually tried it.