Effective Battery Reconfiguring ...
Probably didn't ask the question the right way last time.
Questions below in bold
Theory
Reconfiguring the 2005 Roadtrek 190 two battery set up;
An optional unit is one battery added in the cut out in front & one standard from the factory behind the passenger side rear wheel
Replacing both batteries (actually replacing two perfectly good 2 year old Lifeline GPL 27T 12 volt/100ah Batteries) & trading them to my installer. Both are AGM.
Despite a bad negative connection that my RV Guy discovered AFTER installing my new DC Compressor Fridge, a Novakool R3800, both batteries tested perfectly under the Capacity Test, they were not perfectly balanced but that was due to the more than 3 feet between which equates to more than 6 feet of wiring.
Replacing them with two new Lifeline AGM, 4CT 6 Volt/220ah batteries because of the smaller size of the 6 volt units
Yes I understand the ah terminology, I know its misleading but I also know, there is no more ethical company in the Battery Industry than Lifeline, all USA Made equipment.
The Box described below is somewhere else on the Popular, on the Versatile its where the Water Heater is on the Popular.
As per my diagrams A , I have measured out where I could fit them;
1. Right up against the 190 Versatile Electrical Box.
The Box is what houses the Shunt & all the other Electrical Connections, this is where the OEM Tripplite RV612ULH Inverter used to sit & cook away whenever it was turned on, delivering poor performance until finally turning off due to over heating.
As you will see, there is already a Magnum MMS1012 Pure Sine Wave Inverter sitting just outside The Box, installed upside down & attached to the base of my driver's side bed.
You can see it's mounting screws already fitted unto the base of the bed.
My secondary considerations are if I put the batteries into #1 aka #A, I would need to move this Inverter further back, extending the cabling so I can place the batteries as close to the The Box as possible, the cabling run only less the 12 inches.
2. Or placing the batteries 36 inches away as pictured as #C at the rear door.
This would most certainly allow me instant access to the batteries for whatever periodic checking & tightening of the terminals, etc.
3. Or option # C, which would place the batteries approximately 42 inches away, by placing them under the center rear of the U Shaped Dinette.
Options 2 & 3 require me not having to move the Inverter but increases the distance between the batteries, and, the shunt.
My questions;
Which is more efficient in terms of connection, next to the battery box or 36 - 42 inches away?
I presume the answer is the closer the better.
But considering the previous configuration up to 7-9 feet away not wired in such a way ro compensate for the 3 foot difference & therefore an imbalance, is this considerably better?
Am I achieving a reasonable enough advantage, to go through the trouble & cost of moving the inverter back, and, getting them right up against The Box?
At what length, does 1 foot, 3 foot, etc does cabling distance begin to have a sizable difference to the efficiency?
And what size cables should I use at 1 foot or less, 3 feet or 3.5 feet?
Do I also need to increase the size of the inverter cables if I move it back 14-17 inches?
|