Dometic RM2453 function knob VERY difficult to turn

[PJW73NH]

Greetings,

I have a new (to me, 2002) Class B and it has the above mentioned fridge in it. The function knob feels like it's going to break no matter where I set it. AC-off-GAS-off-DC. It DOES work (for now) but it is really hard to turn.

Any thoughts?

Thanks.

[gklugie]

I had the same problem with my fridge. The rotary switch seemed to be frozen. I dared not use too much force to free it lest something get damaged. Since the switch was not accessible with the refrigerator in place, I decided to remove it and service the thing.

As it turns out, the rotary switch is coupled to a small mechanical valve through a folded brass connector. My steps to free it up were:

1 mark electrical connectors on switch
2 remove electrical connections from switch
3 remove switch from bracket with 2 screws on front
4 ensure switch is free to mechanically rotate
5 test if mechanical valve rotates ( mine was tight, and rotating it a few times freed it up)

While I had the unit out, I serviced the LP function by brushing out the chimney pipe with a bottle brush, removal and cleaning the pilot burner tube, general cleaning.

Mine functions fine now, PLUS I got a free education on the workings of this mysterious beast.

[PJW73NH]

GK, Thanks for the great reply. Timing is everything. I just this minute found this diagram, and I suspected it might be the gas valve in the back.

I am hesitant to pull the unit as I haven't done it before. I don't really know what;'s involved. Obviously the electrical and gas seem pretty straight forward, but I am not sure about the anchoring, sealing/gaskets/trim if any.

I am probably going to put a fan kit in at some point so I'll have to face the music eventually.

You mention you "worked the valve back and forth a few times".... I wonder if I can pull the knob off and nad just grab the shaft with a pair of pliers and work it back and forth a few times. I wonder if this would work the same as what you did without pulling the unit. did you lube anything on the valve?

Thanks.

[gklugie]

When I mentioned that I tried to free up the switch, I mean I had the knob off and was using pliers! It is then that I decided NOT to exert too much pressure.

Attached is a more concise parts list for (my style...year 2000 Roadtrek) the refrigerator.

[gklugie]

I did not lube anything. Dark thoughts of seals dissolving with my introduction of lubricants haunted me.

[gklugie]

Also... pay close attention as to how the valve and the switch are coupled via the z-bend brass assembly. Take pictures. Make reference markings with a sharpie. Take note of their relative position so that they can mate properly upon reassembly.

[Ron J. Moore]

Just expand your comfort zone and pull it, everything will work out. To boost your confidence, just suppose you went to a RV Repair Shop and a guy takes it in....and it is his first time, you don't know it, but your sure paying the freight! You mentioned fans for the rear, are you using the Snyder Fan Setup? You might check out U-Tube, or maybe booster or one of the guys with the real experience can guide you thru an installation. Mr. Synder was at a rally years back and installed for material cost + $30, to include a toggle switch mounted up from to turn the fans off-on when you felt it was necessary. Cost alone made it worthwhile. I remember it looked like a section of pvc guttering and computer mutton fans. Good luck.

[PJW73NH]

GK, Was the "through shaft" metal/brass all the way to the gas valve in the back? Or was there plastic in the middle? The switch "paddles" look to be plastic, but is seems from the pic, there was metal all the way to the valve.

Ron, Thank you very much for the advice. I WILL get around to pulling the refer at some point. I've already had the burner assy out and cleaned it.
I'd like to wire brush the chimney too.

Can you tell me a little more about the fans? I read in ONE of these forums (not sure where) that Sndyer was either no longer available or had been superseded by something better. In all honesty, I haven't done thorough research on them yet.

I am very concerned that the rear clearance is VERY tight, and fan-wise I would need something very specific to the Roadtrek installation.

Thanks to both of you.

Paul

[Ron J. Moore]

Paul, check out U-Tube:
(1) 3 Wy fridge fan/vent install by Ed Kauffman
(2) Refrigerator Vent Fan by Hydrophonic Gardening w/Brent
I remember the "guttering" was upside down, so as to prevent air just going up. Once you get into it, I am sure you will come up with something. Heard a lot of people saying they did it one way, and others a different way. I am betting Valterra bought up Synder's Fan System.

[gklugie]

No "through shaft". There is an intermediary z-bend brass coupling. Go back and look at my picture.

[PJW73NH]

Yep. Got it... Gonna have to pull it... Oh well, want to put a fan kit in anyway. May as well make a day of it. Now to decide which fan kit. Hmmm.....

Tnx

[Grampy]

when you pull unit out please let me know where all the screws mounting it are located.
I have the same unit 2453 in a 2002 road trek 200 popular and having difficulty removing it to replace switch and thermostat.
Thanks
Grampy

[PJW73NH]

Well Grampy, funny you should mention that. I looked at mine last night and this morning and while I can find the "out back" stuff (gas elec etc) pretty easily, I can not find anything up front securing it to the cabinetry. My old RT had 6 or 8 screws with little screw caps on them holding it in. Not sure where it is on our units though.

Hopefully someone will chime in.

Thanks.

[Grampy]

there are two screws under front trim cover holding it to counter top just cannot locate any screws holding it in the bottom front. It is secured with some sort of adhesive on the outer trim from what I can tell
Grampy

[Rosebean]

Hello, did anyone ever figure out how to pull this fridge?? I have this same model in a 2002 Casita, I need to replace the thermostat and control knob. . I can’t figure out how to pull it without cutting things apart!!
Or did anyone figure out how to access the front working parts of the fridge without pulling the fridge?’
Thanks

[GallenH]

Typically there are screws on the front that have caps covering them. Also screws in the back through the ack rail/feet to secure unit to the bottom of compartment. After removing these you’d still have difficulty sliding unit out front. That’s because they typically have silicone sealant,usually along the bottom, which has to be cut with a utility knife