Dometic RM2310 to 2354 in RT 170 1997

[GallenH]

I think this is what may be happening. The propane flame has to somehow be set up to provide enough heat for the absorption process to happen but not too much to damage the heater/coils. That's a guess on my part. So when you turn off the propane, the boiler heat starts to cool rapidly. (Think of a gas stove. There is some residual heat left in the pan but maybe not enough to give you an effective browning or frying heat. ) So at that point, the fridge starts to lose its effectiveness for cooling. You now switch to electric (either 12v or 120v). Those heating elements are not instantaneously at peak temperature. so they take a while before reaching the temp level to effectively produce the heat necessary to get the absorption process rolling at full steam. During this transition period, your fridge is essentially off.

Propane mode on this fridge cycles on and off to maintain the temperature in the fridge and that's done by a valve in the thermostat (the gas line goes physically through the thermostat body). The flame doesn't go off rather it cycles from "high flame" to "pilot." I visually verified this after replacing the thermostat. In electric modes it does actually turn off current to the heating elements. I also verified this using a volt meter. The meter gave me a c.120v reading when the thermostat was at MAX and 0v when at the lowest setting.

[RT1997]

Originally Posted by GallenH

Those heating elements are not instantaneously at peak temperature. so they take a while before reaching the temp level to effectively produce the heat necessary to get the absorption process rolling at full steam. During this transition period, your fridge is essentially off.

Thank you.
You nailed it!
So switching to 120v might substantially effect the quality of food, especially in freezer ,even spoil it.
And doing it to save on propane does not make much sense.
Once I used 120v once a week for a month (parking situation, had to park in the driveway ).When I refilled the tank I did not notice much difference in propane consumption.
If it was not for the levelling I would not even bother to switch.
So long term use of 120 definitely saves propane,short term savings are questionable.
Another thing to consider- the switch knob itself.Moving mine goes with some effort.It is not real hard but feels like if I do the switching ofen it might brake.
2354 and all other models with electronic control will make things easier.Or not )):

[GallenH]

Personally, I don't worry that much about food spoilage. And, as I've mentioned, I've never even had ice cubes in the freezer thaw. I do use the 120v mode when I'm in a campground with electrical hookup. I was once in one for about a month and my fridge was routinely freezing (c.27º) in the mornings (that's why I replaced the thermostat--it obviously wasn't working). But, as you mentioned, you can no longer replace the RM2310 with that model so if you are intent on replacing and want to maintain the absorption type, you don't have many options.

[RT1997]

And those options very often do not last long for older RVs. Anyway,thank you everyone for all the replies.
I will try to do 2354 installation after the holidays.
Some places like Camping World void warranty for DIY installation.Need to find reputable dealer without this demand.The price unfortunately went up more than twice in couple of years while I was thinking it over.
Well...Next time I will think less)):

[GallenH]

Sounds like a plan. Good luck with everything.

[RT1997]

Thank you !

[Fernando Damasceno]

Originally Posted by RT1997

I would appreciate if Roadtrek owners share their experience in taking RM2310 fridge out and installing 2354.
Not sure if the connections at the back are the same in later models of RT 170.I made a pic. of them.
I searched online but no info on exact situation.
The general idea is clear but it could be some details.
F.i. in the only video of 2310 removal the owner had trouble with some metal thing keeping it from being pooled out ( in later model of 170).
Thank you in advance for any details.

I removed the original refrigerator and replaced it with one from Best Buy. It only works at 120V. I have no regrets, a new one is more efficient. I would like to know if someone took one 120V, and converted it into a 12V. My RV is 2005 - Roadtreck 190 with a Chevy platform.

[RT1997]

Fernando,did you have 2310 model ?
If you did I'd appreciate any details of taking it out.

[GallenH]

I think you're asking if someone has converted it to run on 12v battery power? Because obviously if you were running a generator you wouldn't need any conversion. The simplest one I believe would be to run it off an inverter. You probably would need to check the amp draw of the fridge/inverter combo. Then determine how much battery capacity you need. So a fridge drawing 5A running 40% of the time would run 9.6hrs in a day times 5A = 48AH. One 100AH battery would give you about a days worth (assuming you don't have lithium, which would give you more).

[engnrsrule]

I replaced an older (2005) 3-way with a new 3-way. I boondock a fair amount and wanted to preserve propane capability. Additionally the replacement was an exact fit and hookup. I am very pleased with the new fridge. Another advantage to this model, since they are small, is that the freezer compartment can be easily removed, rendering another half a cubic foot of fridge space. My thread on the subject below.

I also added some supplemental cooling to improve performance, both exterior to power vent then dead space behind the fridge, and added an internal circulation fan. Also a set of wireless thermometers are a valuable add on.

For all the political talk, I don't think propane is going away anytime soon. If that is the case I have bigger problems running my RV in that world.

One last point...I do not consider 12v useless. My engine alternator puts out a ton of power. And I always run on 12v when rolling, and my batteries still get to 100% in half a day of driving or less. Performance on 12v has been fine. I also am not a fan of using propane while driving.

My thread:
https://www.classbforum.com/forums/f...dge-10436.html

[1995starcraftroadstar]

I have just cleaned the orifice )looks like a car nitrous jet)with compressed air and finally got the fridge to work on propane. But here in Florida it's been 100°-107°with humidity in August 2024.

I've had the fridge to only 55-60° on propane
Opened the side vent blew out the flue..there is a cloths hanger looking thing attached to a spiral baffle I guess to help evacuate heat?

Anyhow besides a new thermostat and new propane regulator what else can I do?

I'm running it for 1st time (12hrs) on 120v house plug (30amp adapter) and it's about 85° out now at night.

I saw it should be 40°F-45° for the interior of fridge and 0°-10°.

If the flame is lighting and I cleaned the valve (brass fitting w spring behind bolt) cleaned burner. Orifice and blew out flue w compressed air.
I feel I've exhausted anything I would assume to be done.

Any help would be appreciated.
My misses and I want to take camping and last thing we need in Florida heat is no fridge.

I made a manifold for a stand up Toshiba Ac unit from home depot so everything else is ready except this dang fridge

[peteco]

Originally Posted by 1995starcraftroadstar

I have just cleaned the orifice )looks like a car nitrous jet)with compressed air and finally got the fridge to work on propane. But here in Florida it's been 100°-107°with humidity in August 2024.

I've had the fridge to only 55-60° on propane
Opened the side vent blew out the flue..there is a cloths hanger looking thing attached to a spiral baffle I guess to help evacuate heat?

Anyhow besides a new thermostat and new propane regulator what else can I do?

I'm running it for 1st time (12hrs) on 120v house plug (30amp adapter) and it's about 85° out now at night.

I saw it should be 40°F-45° for the interior of fridge and 0°-10°.

If the flame is lighting and I cleaned the valve (brass fitting w spring behind bolt) cleaned burner. Orifice and blew out flue w compressed air.
I feel I've exhausted anything I would assume to be done.

Any help would be appreciated.
My misses and I want to take camping and last thing we need in Florida heat is no fridge.

I made a manifold for a stand up Toshiba Ac unit from home depot so everything else is ready except this dang fridge

Flame looks good. What model fridge? How old is the fridge? Many factors affect fridge performance: venting (can be improved with vent fans), insulation, thermostat & control board issues, etc. Search this forum for discussion on these and other issues. I suggest you start another thread on your particular issue.

[GallenH]

If you ran it all night what was the lowest temperature in fridge. I’m in az. In this heat the best I can count on is 40-deg below outside temperature

Your last flame pic is best. If it’s an old fridge like mine the thermostat is controlling if the flame is in high or low mode. Can’t tell from your pic which you have. So possibly thermostat. A faulty thermostat would affect electric operation as well.

The coat hanger device is to help with venting as you suspected

Not mentioned before is that this type of fridge will slowly build up solids in the tubing which eventually leads to poor performance

[1995starcraftroadstar]

Ok. So I took off side vent
Fridge is dometic 2 way RM2310
I put it on 120v..using the 30amp cable from my 1995 starcraft roadstar slide in truck camper with a 120ac house plug adaptor.

The Fridge will get to 60° but here in Florida it's been very hot and humidity 80%+

So I pulled off sid event blew out baffle/flue/chimney.
And noticed a computer fan. And a thermal switch quite literally bolted w self tappers and dc red/black wires running to fan.
I ordered off ebay a new thermal switch and 2 fans.
I can't imagine the stock factory setup without the fans wouldn't get to 40° inside Fridge.

The freezer seems cooler than the fridge.
I'm going to leave it plugged in for 24hrs and see what the internal temp of fridge is.
I have a little magnetic thermometer inside fridge and cannot figure out if maybe the MAX 7 5 4321 thermostat switch is maybe not good?

The thermostat doesn't have indents or clicks as you select anything..it like turning an old dimmer switch/potentiometer that has resistance.
Do these old RM2310 dometic fridges always have those slow no indent dials?,

[1995starcraftroadstar]

Can you send me a link on where to purchase a new thermostat for my dometic 2310 please ane maybe a link to install.
I tried to take off front plate where dials are but it hangs up on the door hinge.
I didn't want to break it.
I need to see how to remove the thermostat and replace it.
The wife and I wanted to go camp in a week or so and I really want to get this fixed.

[peteco]

Originally Posted by 1995starcraftroadstar

Ok. So I took off side vent
Fridge is dometic 2 way RM2310
I put it on 120v..using the 30amp cable from my 1995 starcraft roadstar slide in truck camper with a 120ac house plug adaptor.

The Fridge will get to 60° but here in Florida it's been very hot and humidity 80%+

So I pulled off sid event blew out baffle/flue/chimney.
And noticed a computer fan. And a thermal switch quite literally bolted w self tappers and dc red/black wires running to fan.
I ordered off ebay a new thermal switch and 2 fans.
I can't imagine the stock factory setup without the fans wouldn't get to 40° inside Fridge.

The freezer seems cooler than the fridge.
I'm going to leave it plugged in for 24hrs and see what the internal temp of fridge is.
I have a little magnetic thermometer inside fridge and cannot figure out if maybe the MAX 7 5 4321 thermostat switch is maybe not good?

The thermostat doesn't have indents or clicks as you select anything..it like turning an old dimmer switch/potentiometer that has resistance.
Do these old RM2310 dometic fridges always have those slow no indent dials?,

A couple suggestions.
1. Measure temps in both the freezer and the fridge. Unit needs to be on for 24 hours in hot weather to see how low the temps can get.
2. Does the gas flame burn continuously with the thermostat turned all the way cold? If so, then the thermostat may be OK.
3. Until you get your new thermal switch, just take a small desk fan and blow air into and up the vent. That will get good venting.
4. If the fridge temps do not drop to acceptable range, your fridge may be worn out or have internal blockage from off-level operation by prior owners.

[1995starcraftroadstar]

Originally Posted by peteco

A couple suggestions.
1. Measure temps in both the freezer and the fridge. Unit needs to be on for 24 hours in hot weather to see how low the temps can get.
2. Does the gas flame burn continuously with the thermostat turned all the way cold? If so, then the thermostat may be OK.
3. Until you get your new thermal switch, just take a small desk fan and blow air into and up the vent. That will get good venting.
4. If the fridge temps do not drop to acceptable range, your fridge may be worn out or have internal blockage from off-level operation by prior owners.

Blow the fan up the pipe w the flame?
There isn't room


And yes I've had the propane run for 2 days just fine only got to 55-60 but I had put Tupperware if ice in there to see if that would help get it cooler quicker and of course it did hen it got down to 50.

I'm buying a duel fan set up and bought a new thermostat switch.
Florida as been over 100° w humidity so this is a great test..it's been as hot as Arizona where I have friends who daily batte with me over which is worse the Arizona day oven type heat or the humidity of Florida.

I really want to go camping and want to fi3c the optional fridge.
It's so basic..what is there to wear out?
Propane it's clean..I blew out all the valves..the flue took out baffle..the burner..you see the flame.
Does the ammonia solution go bad?
What can go "bad"..then I'll repair/replacement that.

[1995starcraftroadstar]

Originally Posted by peteco

A couple suggestions.
1. Measure temps in both the freezer and the fridge. Unit needs to be on for 24 hours in hot weather to see how low the temps can get.
2. Does the gas flame burn continuously with the thermostat turned all the way cold? If so, then the thermostat may be OK.
3. Until you get your new thermal switch, just take a small desk fan and blow air into and up the vent. That will get good venting.
4. If the fridge temps do not drop to acceptable range, your fridge may be worn out or have internal blockage from off-level operation by prior owners.

Oh I'm sorry I reread..a desk fan..I have a ryobi 18v that will run for a ay on high speed ll set it on a ladder and blow up the chimney stack where the flame is usually but have it on 120v AC electric cool.
It's almost midnight I'm going to check fridge and freezer temp w infrared gun now

[1995starcraftroadstar]

It's midnight 80°F and 87° w humidity
Temps are down nice...I think the max dial is too close to off..you have to barely have it on max.

I put on 7 and magically it worked..so I slightly turned dial to where MAX BARELY is in the window of the dial and tomorrow noon I'll see what temps are.

[peteco]

Originally Posted by 1995starcraftroadstar

Blow the fan up the pipe w the flame?
There isn't room


And yes I've had the propane run for 2 days just fine only got to 55-60 but I had put Tupperware if ice in there to see if that would help get it cooler quicker and of course it did hen it got down to 50.

I'm buying a duel fan set up and bought a new thermostat switch.
Florida as been over 100° w humidity so this is a great test..it's been as hot as Arizona where I have friends who daily batte with me over which is worse the Arizona day oven type heat or the humidity of Florida.

I really want to go camping and want to fi3c the optional fridge.
It's so basic..what is there to wear out?
Propane it's clean..I blew out all the valves..the flue took out baffle..the burner..you see the flame.
Does the ammonia solution go bad?
What can go "bad"..then I'll repair/replacement that.

No, not the pipe with the flame. Blow air up the large open area to the left of the burner area.

Yes, the fridge cooling cycle is simple. The ammonia solution is adversely affected if it overheats, which can occur in off-level operation. Repair means replacing the cooling unit.

I just noticed that ARPRV has updated their fridge troubleshooting information and it is quite good, though they are trying to sell their fridge protection control unit. Take some time going through this information and you will learn a lot, and perhaps find some things to help your fridge performance.

https://www.arprv.com/dometic-troubl...ing-repair.php

I bought an ARPRV controller in 2015, and have been generally happy with it, though it is expensive (~$200). I wouldn’t spend a lot of money trying to fix a 30 year old fridge. As I have said in other posts, if my fridge were to fail I would likely replace with a compressor unit, though that would be quite expensive due to electric updates also needed.

These discussions go over other things I have done to improve my fridge performance.

https://www.classbforum.com/forums/f...tml#post155252

https://www.classbforum.com/forums/f...ce-8484-2.html