Dometic Refrigerator RM 8500 Series Beeping

[The Jode]

Greetings,

2 weeks into a 5 week trip and having problems with fridge. Replaced battery and all worked fine on all systems (12V, 120, gas) until this morning. Last night there was a huge lightening storm and power went out, beeping of fridge woke me up so I just turned it off until I started rolling this morning. Was running off 12V while driving and about 2 hrs. in the fridge started beeping. Now parked and beeping on all other energy sources as well. The red warning light is not coming on but the beeping continues. I do notice that neither of the fans are running. I've checked the fuses/breakers under the inside panel near the floor and all seems okay. I'm wondering if something burned up last night. Any other ideas?

I read an earlier thread about another fuse somewhere. I don't see how to remove the front black panel on the fridge (where the LED lights are).
I opened the 2 outside hatches but frankly, don't know what I'm looking at but nothing looks blatantly amiss other than neither of the 2 fans are working.

Thanks so much you guys!

JoAnne

[BBQ]

.

Year?


Model? RM8500

[The Jode]

Pleasure Way is 2014. I don't see any plate on inside of Dometic giving specifics and printed manual is for about 6 different Series 8500 models. Mine has LED settings for 120, 12, Gas & AU (Auto). Don't know if that helps. Thanks. Just bought a bag of ice JoAnne

[BBQ]

.

mmm . . . 2014 is very new. You shouldn't even need new batteries.

Have you tried turning the breakers off, then turn on again?

[GallenH]

Don't see an internal fuse in any of the wiring diagrams. I took a fast glance. You might want to double check.


https://www.dometic.com/en-us/us/pro...#documentation

I'd follow others advice about possibility of some sort of external reset.

[The Jode]

Back battery wasn't holding a charge so I replaced in Bismark (left from WA). That seemed to solve one problem of the fridge not wanting to run while I was driving. But tonight not working on any of 3systems so I think it must be something internal w/ fridge.

I did flip breakers off and on again. And, I opened up exterior hatches and unplugged and replugged in cord back there. Fans were turning a couple of days ago, now they are not working.

I appreciate you taking the time and effort to look at a wiring diagram, thanks so much. Think I'll live on ice and cooler until I return home.

JoAnne

[BBQ]

.

Does your RV have a voltage meter?

What is the battery's state of charge (SOC)?

[booster]

The new battery may just have made it run because it was charged up and the old one wasn't. Now the new one is maybe not charged.


I think the place to start is with charging systems to make sure the batteries are actually getting charged, both from the engine and from the shore charger.

[Knit]

Does it work on propane?

How about spending the night somewhere with hookups. Does it work on 120v?

Do you have a generator? Does it work then?

[The Jode]

I have not tried running on the generator but have tried w/out success in running on 120, 12 & propane. It seems unlikely that none of the 3 sources would operate the fridge? I didn't think that could still be a voltage problem, especially w/ propane?

No voltage meter. Guess that's something I need to pick up and learn how to use.

Thanks.

JoAnne

[booster]

Apparently that is a current model frig that does require 12v to operate the controls?



If so, a dead battery or blown supply fuse would keep it from running in any mode.

[The Jode]

I don't read anywhere in the manual that 12v is required to run controls but I'm assuming that's true to run the LED panel as it dims after it has been turned on and set, I assume to save energy. The battery is indicating full charge.

There is no fuse marked for the fridge. I do have extras so I guess I could just change them all out but my experience has been that a blown fuse, like a lighbulb, is discolored. (?) There is no discoloration in the fuses.

I guess as someone suggested in an earlier thread that there could be a fuse on the back of the fridge but I couldn't locate anything.

I think I've reached my maximum capacity at troubleshooting this one!

Thanks.

JoAnne

[SteveJ]

Originally Posted by The Jode

I don't read anywhere in the manual that 12v is required to run controls but I'm assuming that's true to run the LED panel as it dims after it has been turned on and set, I assume to save energy. The battery is indicating full charge.

There is no fuse marked for the fridge. I do have extras so I guess I could just change them all out but my experience has been that a blown fuse, like a lighbulb, is discolored. (?) There is no discoloration in the fuses.

I guess as someone suggested in an earlier thread that there could be a fuse on the back of the fridge but I couldn't locate anything.

I think I've reached my maximum capacity at troubleshooting this one!

Thanks.

JoAnne

Fuse can look good and even conduct the small current of an ohm meter and still be bad. Pulling a suspected fuse and replacing with a known good one would be a good idea.

I don't think the LED lights are supposed to dim, mine doesn't but I have a different model.

Good luck.

[GallenH]

The manual that I linked you to lists "fuse" as possible cause for blinking and "audible" signal....which I assume is your beeping. It could also be caused by other problems, but note that it's listed for 120v and 12v, so, yes, I'm guessing that your fridge does require continuous 12v to operate. There must be a fuse somewhere in the RV for this circuit. I have 120v fuses and circuit breakers on my old PleasureWay RV. It looks to me that the main controlling circuit board requires 12v to maintain functioning in all modes (12v,120v and gas). I would be pouring over the RV to find those fuses and, as others have stated, replace them. It could be that lightning blew a fuse......or it might have destroyed a voltage sensitive circuit board. Does your RV have a basic manual that shows you where the fuses/circuit breakers are located? Mine is unclear but I found them by opening a door to the water heater (!) and by opening the voltage converter panel (mine is located under one of the beds). If you have breakers, click them off-on. A volt/ohm meter can be used to test the fuse but if you've located the fuse for the fridge, it's probably cheaper to replace. Sorry. I'm not a Dometic tech. Did you try calling their tech line? Worth a try if you haven't. I'll repost this on your other thread. Good luck.

Glenn

[Roadtrek Adventuous RS1]

Originally Posted by BBQ

.

Does your RV have a voltage meter?

What is the battery's state of charge (SOC)?

SO...if my reading is around 12.8.....i have a 90 percent charge...?

[Roadtrek Adventuous RS1]

Originally Posted by Knit

Does it work on propane?

How about spending the night somewhere with hookups. Does it work on 120v?

Do you have a generator? Does it work then?

Anything over 3,280 feet....the 8000 series units won't work on propane.....

And..on 12 volt... they will only maintain the current temp.... they will NOT cool down any further.....

That's what Dometic USA told me....

[booster]

3280 feet elevation? That rules out a huge chunk of the country.


Are you certain that is what they said?

[Roadtrek Adventuous RS1]

Originally Posted by booster

3280 feet elevation? That rules out a huge chunk of the country.


Are you certain that is what they said?

YES, I had two separate conversations with them BECAUSE... one person told me 5,500 feet and the manual says 3,280 feet.... I called a second time to see if the manual or the representative from Dometic gave me wrong information.

Turns out that the 2000 series are at 5,500 feet .... go figure their arcane numbering system for units.... oh well.

I also inquired about the 12 volt.. and that's when the agent said don't count on that thing cooling your food down.. it's meant for just keeping things cool when you're driving or in fueling stations... she reminded me that you should always go to battery when getting fuel...

Even though my vehicle is a diesel and less likely to have an ignition problem like gasoline... propane around gasoline cars getting fuel is NOT good.

It is certainly a big limitation... which is why I'm going to always keep an ice chest with me.... and it will definitely affect where I go and how long I stay.

I got back to Los Angeles, sea level territory and voila the refrigerator works fine... not a problem .. even the RV shop said , there's nothing wrong... how about that... a welcome relief..... other news not so good...

Found out that the previous owners ( grandchildren probably) threw plastic down the toilet, ruined the macerator and needed two new gate valves.... another story...

[markopolo]

The 3280 feet referred to likely originates from this note in many Dometic fridge manuals:

Due to physical reasons, ignition faults could occur starting from an
altitude above sea level of approx. 1000 m /3280 ft.

I added emphasis on could.

5500 feet is often quoted on forums:

OPERATING REFRIGERATOR AT HIGH ALTITUDE

All gas appliances experience lowered efficiency (or rating) at high altitude This is a direct result of lower atmospheric pressure and oxygen levels, and is not a defect of the refrigerator.
Reduced cooling performance and burner outage may occur at altitudes higher than 5500 feet above sea level (while operating on LP gas). Always operate refrigerator on electric power at altitudes higher than 5500 feet.

[Roadtrek Adventuous RS1]

Originally Posted by markopolo

The 3280 feet referred to likely originates from this note in many Dometic fridge manuals:

I added emphasis on could.

5500 feet is often quoted on forums:

I understand.... we we're at 8,800 feet when it failed to work...

AND..... while 5,500 feet is often quoted and I totally believe that, you have to consider who's saying it and maybe they have a unit with a 5,500 foot limitation.

My owner's manual says 3,280 feet and Dometic advised me that all of the 8000 series, mine is an RM8501 is limited to the 3,280 feet...

You're absolutely right ... it COULD be affected.... but, they're just saying that it's more likely. SO... going over that altitude with the 8000 series unit is more of a certainty that you're going to have issues.