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Old 08-13-2021, 03:34 AM   #1
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Default Coach batteries don't charge from engine

I have a 2007 Roadtrek with a trip-lite inverter / charger. My understanding is the coach batteries should charge when the vehicle engine is running, but mine does not. The inverter appears to be working based on the green lights. Not sure whet to start! Thanks for any insights.
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Old 08-13-2021, 10:44 AM   #2
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Originally Posted by It's a beast View Post
I have a 2007 Roadtrek with a trip-lite inverter / charger. My understanding is the coach batteries should charge when the vehicle engine is running, but mine does not. The inverter appears to be working based on the green lights. Not sure whet to start! Thanks for any insights.

The inverter/charger doesn't have any part in the batteries charging from the engine. It doesn't wouldn't even need to be turned on.



The alternator power goes through the separator on the firewall and then the auto reset circuit breakers next to it, cable to the rear of the van to another pair of circuit breakers, then directly to the batteries.


The circuit breakers tend to be the most common failure as they often will be cycling on and off a lot from the high current, especially if the van has two AGM batteries which charge easier so draw more current. Second place would be the separator.



Fairly easy to check with a multimeter at the various components, if you can get to them. On some, maybe all, 2007 models the rear breakers are underneath the van at the end of the long cable.
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Old 08-13-2021, 05:22 PM   #3
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The inverter/charger doesn't have any part in the batteries charging from the engine. It doesn't wouldn't even need to be turned on.



The alternator power goes through the separator on the firewall and then the auto reset circuit breakers next to it, cable to the rear of the van to another pair of circuit breakers, then directly to the batteries.


The circuit breakers tend to be the most common failure as they often will be cycling on and off a lot from the high current, especially if the van has two AGM batteries which charge easier so draw more current. Second place would be the separator.



Fairly easy to check with a multimeter at the various components, if you can get to them. On some, maybe all, 2007 models the rear breakers are underneath the van at the end of the long cable.
OK. So I'll ask for help from a friend to check all the connections. I'm presuming the separator is in the red box on the engine firewall. Thanks!
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Old 08-17-2021, 10:47 PM   #4
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I can confirm the location of the circuit breakers from my 2008C210P. The rear breakers are located just forward of the passanger side rear wheel well and behind the battery. There is a small metal box which contains the breakers and the junction point between the Battery cable, the gennie starting cable and the cable going to the battery relay. His 2007 probably has an Isolator since that is what my 2008 came equipped with...OTOH, who knows what RT actually used from chassis to chassis.
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Old 08-19-2021, 05:02 PM   #5
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I can confirm the location of the circuit breakers from my 2008C210P. The rear breakers are located just forward of the passanger side rear wheel well and behind the battery. There is a small metal box which contains the breakers and the junction point between the Battery cable, the gennie starting cable and the cable going to the battery relay.
How is the little metal box accessed to test the breakers? Does the RT need to be raised to get under it and behind the battery compartment in the 210P?
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Old 08-20-2021, 05:42 PM   #6
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while u are a it with a VOM wirth dc clamp on capability, masure dc amps coming off alternator, the dc amps going into isolator, then dc amps going OUT OF isolator into your house batt system. bd isolator is a $70 part, cal fretz rv give them yr vin and they will ship you the isolator. it s 15 minute replacement instead of having the mechanic bil $$$$$$ for circuit breaker tests. and DONT let mechanic tell you it s a bad alternator that s/he wants to replace for $500. often a bad isolator is diagnosed by incompetents as a bad alternator. (ask me how i found this out... now i have 2 perfectly good alternators bc a chevy shop had no clue what an isolator does and was too lazy to check amp output to the house batts with alternator running. )
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Old 08-30-2021, 04:20 PM   #7
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You will need to raise the right rear wheel in order to reach it. Getting it up 4 or 5 inches on some 2x10 planks should be sufficient.
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Old 08-31-2021, 01:01 AM   #8
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You will need to raise the right rear wheel in order to reach it. Getting it up 4 or 5 inches on some 2x10 planks should be sufficient.
thanks for the reply
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