Chevy RT 200p owners pkease help with stock battery isolator location

[Road Toad]

Originally Posted by Theputnams515

I did mine this way too.

Also as a side note, just to add confusion…

The manufacturer told me the wire to the starter is optional. I understand why you would want it. However would this also stop your ability to start off the house battery should your starter battery go dead?

Actually manual joining is not an option on the 7610 ACR.
The 7622 (I believe) is capable of switching to that.

My situation would call for a jumper cable for that purpose.

Also, that optional starter wire is to suppress joining while the starter is occuring (to prevent hugh in-rush current it seems) .
Not so much a problem on our Rv... More of a boating equipment protection it seems.

That starter wire doesn't provide anything to do with house batteries starting the engine when starter battery is low.

[Theputnams515]

Originally Posted by Road Toad

Actually manual joining is not an option on the 7610 ACR.
The 7622 (I believe) is capable of switching to that.

My situation would call for a jumper cable for that purpose.

Also, that optional starter wire is to suppress joining while the starter is occuring (to prevent hugh in-rush current it seems) .
Not so much a problem on our Rv... More of a boating equipment protection it seems.

That starter wire doesn't provide anything to do with house batteries starting the engine when starter battery is low.

Gotcha. Yeah he said it was to protect sonar, radar type equipment.

Mine has worked flawlessly for over a year, you will be happy with yours!

[Road Toad]

Originally Posted by Theputnams515

Gotcha. Yeah he said it was to protect sonar, radar type equipment.

Mine has worked flawlessly for over a year, you will be happy with yours!

I started this project while in Colo Spgs for Summer and am just now finishing up in Fl.

Have had tremendous support from all the folks here on Class B.

Thanks to all.

[SteveJ]

Originally Posted by Theputnams515

I did mine this way too.

Also as a side note, just to add confusion…

The manufacturer told me the wire to the starter is optional. I understand why you would want it. However would this also stop your ability to start off the house battery should your starter battery go dead?

The RT did not have the built in ability to use the house battery for starting. I never had to in about 100k miles that we owned it but if it were necessary one could simply jump the two battery systems at the ACR or the old diode isolator.

The Safari does have a switch on the dash to join the two systems and it was unaffected by the ACR install to replace the diode unit.

I would think not wiring in the starter interrupt wire one would be overloading the rating on the ACR from the current surge which would tend to induce premature failure.

[booster]

Originally Posted by SteveJ

The RT did not have the built in ability to use the house battery for starting. I never had to in about 100k miles that we owned it but if it were necessary one could simply jump the two battery systems at the ACR or the old diode isolator.

The Safari does have a switch on the dash to join the two systems and it was unaffected by the ACR install to replace the diode unit.

I would think not wiring in the starter interrupt wire one would be overloading the rating on the ACR from the current surge which would tend to induce premature failure.

Most of the older Roadtreks with the isolators don't have big enough wiring to do that kind of connection. Probably just 6ga with 50 amp or less circuit breakers.


The only way to do it would be to jumper it and don't start the vehicle with the jumper in place. You may get enough charging from the coach batteries to give it enough charge to start, or you may wind up with all dead batteries.


If you have a generator, just start it and jumper the isolator and let the shore charger charge the starting battery.

[Theputnams515]

Originally Posted by booster

Most of the older Roadtreks with the isolators don't have big enough wiring to do that kind of connection. Probably just 6ga with 50 amp or less circuit breakers.


The only way to do it would be to jumper it and don't start the vehicle with the jumper in place. You may get enough charging from the coach batteries to give it enough charge to start, or you may wind up with all dead batteries.


If you have a generator, just start it and jumper the isolator and let the shore charger charge the starting battery.

You guys are great resources. This site has been a goldmine of info.

Booster I think we will be redoing our electric for solar and Li ion in the near future. A shop down the road that we trust has some good systems, so they say.

I’ll be reaching out to you for opinions in the near future. If you don’t mind