Chevy Express transmission removal issues

[booster]

Originally Posted by Bud

"I think we still aren't certain on the tanks."

booster, does that include your Express Van?

No that would not include our van. Even though I also modified the tanks for no cut and easier removal, the crossmember mounting has also been modified to allow it to come out without removing the tanks.

[cruising7388]

Originally Posted by ManWonder

here is my dilemma: my 2004 RT190P's tranny started making a whining noise when put in gear at around 50k miles. I bought the coach with 33k miles and the previous owner told me Roadtrek had replaced the tranny under warranty. I took it to a couple of local shops and one found nothing wrong while another suggested it could be the transmission pump and told me of a shop where I might have it looked at. One mechanic told me his friend's truck made the same noise and had for the last 4 years. My current odometer reading is over 70k. But the noise drives me nuts to the point I am ready to get it fixed. Given it's a Roadtrek with the Chevy 3500 extended chassis I wonder do I need to take it to an RV shop or can I take it to a transmission repair facility? Any recommendations in the northern VA (USA) area?

I'm dubious that Roadtrek authorized any tranny replacement because the Chevy engine and power train are not covered under the RT warranty but under the Chevy 3yr/36000 mile warranty. Perhaps they covered the labor cost of accessing the tranny for removal?

[booster]

Originally Posted by cruising7388

I'm dubious that Roadtrek authorized any tranny replacement because the Chevy engine and power train are not covered under the RT warranty but under the Chevy 3yr/36000 mile warranty. Perhaps they covered the labor cost of accessing the tranny for removal?

Yes, it most certainly would be a Chevy warranty transmission replacement.


Roadtrek did compensate some owners for the tank removal and reinstallation costs, and I think we heard of something like $2K IIRC, so not cheap. Others were unsuccessful in getting Roadtrek to pay for it, so not consistent. Mute point on old ones, anyway, and maybe on newer ones too, depending on how the new owners would look at it.

[Jon in AZ]

That would be a “moot” point. If it were “mute,” we wouldn’t be talking about it.

Sorry... old high school teacher here... carry on!

[booster]

Originally Posted by Jon in AZ

That would be a “moot” point. If it were “mute,” we wouldn’t be talking about it.

Sorry... old high school teacher here... carry on!

You are correct, my bad

[booster]

Originally Posted by Jon in AZ

That would be a “moot” point. If it were “mute,” we wouldn’t be talking about it.

Sorry... old high school teacher here... carry on!

You are correct, my bad You can't imagine how careful I have to be with emails to my relative that has a PHD in English.

[Jon in AZ]

“Mute point” has entered the urban slang dictionary for a comment made in a group discussion that’s completely ignored by the rest of the group.

And since I’m way off topic here, perhaps this will be a mute point.

[Bud]

Originally Posted by booster

You are correct, my bad You can't imagine how careful I have to be with emails to my relative that has a PHD in English.

Careful? or maybe a fun opportunity.

[markopolo]

I like moo point -
It's like a cow's opinion!

[ManWonder]

Originally Posted by cruising7388

I'm dubious that Roadtrek authorized any tranny replacement because the Chevy engine and power train are not covered under the RT warranty but under the Chevy 3yr/36000 mile warranty. Perhaps they covered the labor cost of accessing the tranny for removal?

I stated "Roadtrek" had replaced the tranny under warrant but i misspoke... I meant the dealer, not Roadtrek.

I just got the dreaded call from the transmission repair shop... yep, tanks are in the way so gotta get that taken care of first... Grrr...

[ManWonder]

Originally Posted by booster

<snip>The tanks are not readily removable as the plumbing is all glued in place with no disconnects, and some folks who have had plumbing issues needed to remove the exhaust to get to it, so the job of just getting ready to have a tranny fixed is likely way harder than the tranny fix itself, and might require visits to and exhaust shop and RV dealer before the tranny shop, and again afterward. If this happened when you were 3000 miles from home, it would be a sure fire way to ruin your trip, and probably triple the cost of your tranny repair.</snip>

On my 2004 RT 190P, I had to remove the pipes to fix a leaky waste gate valve and now that I have all of that removed I am wondering how much harder it would be to remove the tanks? The threads on the support rods look rusty and I would hate to break one off but I guess they can be replaced with new ones. I also wonder - if I were able to drop them, how much clearance would be needed to slide them out from under the van?

[booster]

Originally Posted by ManWonder

On my 2004 RT 190P, I had to remove the pipes to fix a leaky waste gate valve and now that I have all of that removed I am wondering how much harder it would be to remove the tanks? The threads on the support rods look rusty and I would hate to break one off but I guess they can be replaced with new ones. I also wonder - if I were able to drop them, how much clearance would be needed to slide them out from under the van?

Not certain on how much height would be needed to get them out from under the van, but I did ours without issue with it on jackstands off jackstands that gave maybe 15" of clearance to the floor of the garage.


That, however, is the least of the problem in removing the tanks. The fresh tank unbolts and comes out fairly well with the hose disconnects the hardest, so not bad.


The grey tank won't come out without removing the black tank first as they intertwine, and both require cutting the plumbing and vent lines to them. The vent lines are accessed at the front of the passenger side wheel well by removing the battery compartment box and the toilet and sink from underneath. Both have the be replumbed when going back in as you have to cut them out to remove. Going back in can be reglued or modified to use rubber couplings and clamps which is what I did. Lots of tank pics starting on the second page of this thread.

[ManWonder]

thanks for the info on removal of the water tanks - am reconsidering outsourcing...

[dicktill]

Originally Posted by ManWonder

On my 2004 RT 190P, I had to remove the pipes to fix a leaky waste gate valve and now that I have all of that removed I am wondering how much harder it would be to remove the tanks? The threads on the support rods look rusty and I would hate to break one off but I guess they can be replaced with new ones. I also wonder - if I were able to drop them, how much clearance would be needed to slide them out from under the van?

As Booster has mentioned, removing the tanks is a lot of work and not for the faint of heart. I would add that it is not just the connections in the rear by the battery box that need to be cut, but also one (or more) further forward that come from the kitchen sink and shower drain - as shown in some of his photos.

However, even if you don't remove the tanks, it wouldn't be a bad idea to address the rusty support rods/nuts. They are not easy "to replace" as Roadtrek just welded the "all-thread rods" to the Chevy frame, and you don't want to have to go there! However, if broken off partway up, you can use a new length of all-thread rod plus a female coupling to join them.

However, what I would do now is to soak the rusty nuts with PBblaster several times over a few days, and then try to ease them off. If they are stubborn, then grab the all-thread rod with vise-grips just above the support beam. That way if they do break it will be right there, and you can get to the broken end and deal with it. Be sure to try to loosen any stuck fastener like this just a little, then tighten partway back, rinse and repeat ...

If you do get everything off, it is then a good idea to run a couple of extra nuts on each rod a bit above the support beam, and then tighten them really hard against each other. This "double nut" will not move along the rod without loosening them from each other, and in the future can be used to hold the rod from turning rather than using the crude visegrips. (Ask if you are not following me on this.)

Good luck, Dick

[hbn7hj]

Don't even try to twist the nuts. The threaded rods are poor quality steel. Split them with a nut splitter or Dremel, then remove them.

[booster]

Originally Posted by hbn7hj

Don't even try to twist the nuts. The threaded rods are poor quality steel. Split them with a nut splitter or Dremel, then remove them.

Excellent idea!

[tlillard23]

Interesting.... was there some sort of update to teh roadtrek? I had my transmission rebuilt (@50k miles), and then replaced with another rebuilt trans from the same transmission shop under their 3 year warranty (first was a crappy rebuild). They never mentioned having to remove the tanks, nor did it take them very long to R&R the trans. That transmission shop had my roadtrek 6 or 7 times in 3 years, terrible experience.

[hbn7hj]

Originally Posted by tlillard23

Interesting.... was there some sort of update to the roadtrek? I had my transmission rebuilt (@50k miles), and then replaced with another rebuilt trans from the same transmission shop under their 3 year warranty (first was a crappy rebuild). They never mentioned having to remove the tanks, nor did it take them very long to R&R the trans. That transmission shop had my roadtrek 6 or 7 times in 3 years, terrible experience.

One other has posted that they had theirs done with no problem. Would you ask your transmission guy how he did it? My observation agrees with Boosters-it can't be done, yet it has.

Maybe there is a way an experienced transmission shop can remove the transmission without removing the crossbar?

Give us the name and address of this transmission shop?

[booster]

From what I have been able to figure out from piecing together information from a bunch of places, they are able to remove the transmission rubber mount (maybe won't need to also) then sliding the transmission to the rear while holding up the front until it will tilt down front first. They would have to make sure to get the torque converter out while doing that so it won't fall out. Then they are able to slide it forward again under the engine until the rear clears the crossmember. Probably takes 2/4 people as the trans is very heavy and awkward.

[hbn7hj]

Originally Posted by booster

From what I have been able to figure out from piecing together information from a bunch of places, they are able to remove the transmission rubber mount (maybe won't need to also) then sliding the transmission to the rear while holding up the front until it will tilt down front first. They would have to make sure to get the torque converter out while doing that so it won't fall out. Then they are able to slide it forward again under the engine until the rear clears the crossmember. Probably takes 2/4 people as the trans is very heavy and awkward.

Thank you. I am printing that out to help me convince a transmission shop to try, if I need to.