bunch of ?s on my 1st RV

[mkguitar]

Any water you move into your system with the pump needs to be cleared out- I'd wait on that until you are closer to using the water system


the pump should have a filter on the right side of it- check that



The manual describes draining the water system ( water left in the tubes can form bacteria, like Legionella) or refer to that pdf I posted earlier for you



To drain hot water tank, remove the anode, either 1 1/16th or 1 1/8th socket ( can't remember) anodes are cheap on amazon. once out flush with a hose to get any residue/mineral deposits out. replace anode with ptfe tape



sanitizing the water tank- I do this about 4 days before trip- I use a couple of tablespoons of pool shock tri-chlor ( because I have a pool) some use bleach.
I put in the tri-chlor and 1/2 tank water ( about 14 gallons) and then go for a little drive to mix it up. I let it sit in the tank overnight for crystals to break down & the chlorine fumes to do their thing. ( maybe bleach is faster)

run the pump and open taps to get air out and water through all the lines- turn it all off and let the chlorinated water sanitize. I will then fill tank and drive to mix it around. let it sit.
( these drives are usually to costco to get supplies, gas and check tire PSI)



day before trip, run taps some. then dump water from tank.
hook up city water and run through all the taps until you can't smell chlorine.
your tanks should have started clean so you can dump in the driveway.


before trip, where are you going ?
if you know there is water there, then just put a few gallons in the tank- no use hauling 300 pound of water around if there is water there. if no water there, fill your tank.
so this takes planning


we use the water in our tank for flushing, washing, cleaning and cooking if boiled


we carry empty gallon jugs and fill with known good water to drink

[ChicagoTom]

"Black is full , can I drain in the sewer on street?" ABSOLUTELY NOT yOU NEED TO WATCH SOME YouTubes or read up on the basic RV black and gray tanks and how to dump them. Attached photos solar, and your electric fuse/circuit breaker panels
Answer to your question about the solar, see link. I have an all weather controller that is mounted neatly under the awning. The solar is held on with small stretchable tie downs. Felt under the panels so I don't scratch the top section. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

[ChicagoTom]

low amp fuses

[THEBRAIN]

Originally Posted by mkguitar

Any water you move into your system with the pump needs to be cleared out- I'd wait on that until you are closer to using the water system


the pump should have a filter on the right side of it- check that



The manual describes draining the water system ( water left in the tubes can form bacteria, like Legionella) or refer to that pdf I posted earlier for you



To drain hot water tank, remove the anode, either 1 1/16th or 1 1/8th socket ( can't remember) anodes are cheap on amazon. once out flush with a hose to get any residue/mineral deposits out. replace anode with ptfe tape



sanitizing the water tank- I do this about 4 days before trip- I use a couple of tablespoons of pool shock tri-chlor ( because I have a pool) some use bleach.
I put in the tri-chlor and 1/2 tank water ( about 14 gallons) and then go for a little drive to mix it up. I let it sit in the tank overnight for crystals to break down & the chlorine fumes to do their thing. ( maybe bleach is faster)

run the pump and open taps to get air out and water through all the lines- turn it all off and let the chlorinated water sanitize. I will then fill tank and drive to mix it around. let it sit.
( these drives are usually to costco to get supplies, gas and check tire PSI)



day before trip, run taps some. then dump water from tank.
hook up city water and run through all the taps until you can't smell chlorine.
your tanks should have started clean so you can dump in the driveway.


before trip, where are you going ?
if you know there is water there, then just put a few gallons in the tank- no use hauling 300 pound of water around if there is water there. if no water there, fill your tank.
so this takes planning


we use the water in our tank for flushing, washing, cleaning and cooking if boiled


we carry empty gallon jugs and fill with known good water to drink

Originally Posted by ChicagoTom

"Black is full , can I drain in the sewer on street?" ABSOLUTELY NOT yOU NEED TO WATCH SOME YouTubes or read up on the basic RV black and gray tanks and how to dump them. Attached photos solar, and your electric fuse/circuit breaker panels
Answer to your question about the solar, see link. I have an all weather controller that is mounted neatly under the awning. The solar is held on with small stretchable tie downs. Felt under the panels so I don't scratch the top section. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I kindof know I won’t be using the plumbing sys. For Dec, Jan & Feb.
But was planning a trip in next few weeks an wanted to use plumbing.

I’ve been using van as a 2nd car just checking it’s reliability.

I will do as advised
1.drain & inspect or replace hot water heaters anode. Even though I don’t plan on using the shower an probably won’t use hot water in kitchen sink.maybe just wash hands.

2.check pumps filter. Will I have to lay on my stomach an bend head up to access the pump?

3.will study the procedures for fresh water cleanliness. Makes sense to leave empty since
I won’t use until after winter.
If I have to take a emergency dump can I pour water into the toilet an flush? If yes how much water is required? Or must the pump be turned on for a flush?

If city water is connected must the pump be on? If city water is used the whole sys.requires draining? Then add the RV antifreeze? How much AF do you use if any?

Yes I won’t be drinking any water from sys. Until it’s sanitary. I’ll bring bottled water.

Yes you fill you water like I fill my boats fuel tanks. I fill about 50 miles from Gulf in Flo-Ala I try not to buy fuel in Florida. I’ll have to check if the gas station allows me to fill fresh water tanks, the amount of fuel I purchase they’ll probably allow me the water.

Door lable says front tire pressure is 50PSI an rear is 80PSI is this for full load of fuel , water an supplies gear ect.?

Where are you stowing the one gallon water jugs? I was planning a 2.5 gallon water dispenser next to microw wave.
I normally bring enough tools to fix any boat trailer failures, which includes a 3 ton floor jack (also for jacking up van if necessary) not sure if it will fit but looks like under the sofa is the only place to stow FJ. Thanks Mike

Originally Posted by ChicagoTom

low amp fuses

yesterday I only added the pumps low15 amp fuse. I'll flip the breakers on and test the rear plug power outlet.
I see the GM fuse block under hood uses small fuse's (example cigar lighter circuit which I believe is prone to blowing?)
and the step up size as the PW box use's, so I'll carry spares of these 2 differnt sizes.
I've read that the ppl w/ solar are usally longer than just a weekender.
is a flooded battery a regular lead acid?


not sure how often I'll use shore power, so w/out SP I want to be able to use all appliances for however long I want to.
I think the freig is what sucks up all the DC juice quickly like a couple hours the battery is dead.

like can your 100 watt solar sys. replenish the battery as soon as it discharges?
also is Floridas sunlight more powerfull than higher up in equator?

I doubt the smallish freezer will meet my needs I plan to leave RV in 90+ degrees outside heat while cruising/fishing.

so if outside is extremely hot the inside van is even hotter I think by 20 degrees. so the freezer is proballey not even freezing an the frieg is proballey not that cool either, your thoughts on this.

I'm surprised that GM put the small 105 amp alternator. I plan to upgrade to a 145amp alt. I think GM referrs to it as the 244.
have you done the big 3 on your GM charging system?

please post image of the charge controller an breaker for circuit.btw I like the gold an black 2 tone is black for roof choosen for heat? what do you think about the rear 12" window & how they open?
thanks Tom

[ChicagoTom]

Yes 50/80psi, water pump in closet (I think you said you have a chevy lexo) remove drawer, then remove two screws holding the closet floor in place, and easy access to the pump. Alternator is more than enough. BTW, The 3500 is a workhorse Never use the city water connection, JMO too many horror stories, just fill the tank. Using it keeps it fresh, way easier hook up for coming and going etc. Mine is actually capped off. Never use the 12V option of my 3 way fridge. Again, JMO too many horror stories, people forgetting to shut off and then killing their house battery. Use propane. Please don't start the propane debate again. Yes shut it off when fueling. My fridge stays ice cold and freezer frozen up to about 105 degree temps outside. I've posted how to do this before. Will post again when time. Ex HVAC Tech many years ago, for what it's worth. Here is the controller link and picture. Mine stays up and runs right to the house battery alligator clipped. No drilling and simple install. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

[mkguitar]

I can count on my fridge 60º cooler than ambient.


that doesn't always work so great in Arizona in the summer, but in temperate climates it is fine-

the freezer compartment even colder, never had anything thaw out.


many of us add fans to get the most out of the fridge. external to the fins and internal to circulate cool air



------------------------



when on city water you NEED a pressure regulator between hose and van fitting. you don't need pump


------------------------



my armoire is a pantry - sliding basket on base for pots and pans, added shelf in the middle we can put jugs of water there
plates and bowls are stacked inside the microwave ( rarely used)



I can put 2 jugs behind driver seat as well

[ChicagoTom]

Our temps are the same as AZ. External fans are useless. I have two rechargeable fans. One in and pointed to the evap upper shelf and one charging. They last about 6 hours. I have the same exact model fridge as the original, I replaced it and the new one came with the external useless fan. All it does is draw from the house battery and makes noise. Ex HVAC tech for what it's worth. Ice cold fridge up to around 105 degrees, and then still pretty decent. Like you, the freezer has always kept items frozen.

[THEBRAIN]

Originally Posted by mkguitar

I can count on my fridge 60º cooler than ambient.


that doesn't always work so great in Arizona in the summer, but in temperate climates it is fine-

the freezer compartment even colder, never had anything thaw out.


many of us add fans to get the most out of the fridge. external to the fins and internal to circulate cool air



------------------------



when on city water you NEED a pressure regulator between hose and van fitting. you don't need pump


------------------------



my armoire is a pantry - sliding basket on base for pots and pans, added shelf in the middle we can put jugs of water there
plates and bowls are stacked inside the microwave ( rarely used)



I can put 2 jugs behind driver seat as well

Mike I’ll take your advice about the plumbing (Wait till I use it). What about a
Taking a emergency dump. Can I pour water down the toilet and flush, w/out the pump & no fresh water in tank?
If yes how much water is required?


That’s good to know about the frieg working on hot days. Have you ever had to add freeon or replace
a compresser?

are the wire’s coming from house battery
Connected to appliances which are
12 volt DC like hot water heater,furnace,water pump,microw wave,roof fan, roof AC basically all stuff w/ fuses is 12 volt DC.connected to house battery.

generator just replenishes house battery as it discharges correct?

The intelli power is actually a inverter DC to AC correct? battery wires connect to intelli power then out of IP to the AC power outlets?

Do you bring a lap top on trips? If yes how do you charge it though the AC outlets?
I have a 12Volt DC power supply for my LT, I think I can charge w/ vans engine Running.mite be nice to add a 12 volt DC socket, like are all those unlabled fuse locations are for expansion correct?
Thanks Mike

Originally Posted by ChicagoTom

Our temps are the same as AZ. External fans are useless. I have two rechargeable fans. One in and pointed to the evap upper shelf and one charging. They last about 6 hours. I have the same exact model fridge as the original, I replaced it and the new one came with the external useless fan. All it does is draw from the house battery and makes noise. Ex HVAC tech for what it's worth. Ice cold fridge up to around 105 degrees, and then still pretty decent. Like you, the freezer has always kept items frozen.

Yes Tom I have 04 chevy lexor RD. seams like there are a lot more TS made compared
to RD.
When you say “don’t use city water” are you referring to a unknown to you source?
I was planning to flush the cleaning chemicals w/ city water but use a known source,
Like not at a RV parking spot.

I’m considering a solar panel but would like to mount permanently, maybe on top of
the AC cover I’m fabbing. The previous owner drilled a hole in the roof’s back vertical
section for a back up camera this hole needs a groumet but I can use to route SP wires.

I think the house battery cables are routed to the battery kill keyed switch in rear pass.
Side so mount the solar charge controller on sinks cabinet.
Been watching some vids. On solar. Now I understand why you mentioned to not get another lead acid
Or flooded battery bc of the maintaince of constantly refilling the batterys water sounds
Like a nasty job to be avoided.

I’d like to use my Gorge Foreman grill in van it’s use’s 1600watts use time is like
12 minutes so that appears to kill the house battery w/ a one time use.
When you have a device that sucks up a lot of DC juice do you crank up the generator.
Thanks Tom for advice.

[mkguitar]

Originally Posted by THEBRAIN

Mike I’ll take your advice about the plumbing (Wait till I use it). What about a
Taking a emergency dump. Can I pour water down the toilet and flush, w/out the pump & no fresh water in tank?
If yes how much water is required?


Yes, and you should have some water in your bowl to keep the seals lubed when parked, if dry smear some plumbers grease on the flap seal. as much water as it takes to flush. many of us use a "no solids" rule. no poop, no paper.



That’s good to know about the frieg working on hot days. Have you ever had to add freeon or replace
a compresser?
an absorbtion fridge, it doenst use either of those, download and read the dometic manual


are the wire’s coming from house battery
Connected to appliances which are
12 volt DC like hot water heater,furnace,water pump,microw wave,roof fan, roof AC basically all stuff w/ fuses is 12 volt DC.connected to house battery.


yes


generator just replenishes house battery as it discharges correct?


yes, it should through the converter ( see below)


The intelli power is actually a inverter DC to AC correct? battery wires connect to intelli power then out of IP to the AC power outlets?



you DO NOT HAVE an inverter the intellipower is a converter ac to dc.


you can add an inverter, but you won't get much out of a group 27 battery

to use AC powered appliances ( like a 1600w grill) would require a massive electrical system upgrade $$$$




Do you bring a lap top on trips? If yes how do you charge it though the AC outlets?
I bring it but don't use it much. I would charge from shore power, I do have a small inverter and would probably charge laptop while driving rather than run down house battery. my laptop is good for 6 or 7 hours


* I have never used my genny camping.



I have a 12Volt DC power supply for my LT, I think I can charge w/ vans engine Running.mite be nice to add a 12 volt DC socket, like are all those unlabled fuse locations are for expansion correct?
I don't know

Thanks Mike

...............

[THEBRAIN]

Originally Posted by mkguitar

...............

I forgot the intelli power is only for shore power.

can I use the 1600 watt grill w/ generator running?

thanks Mike

[mkguitar]

you should be able to


the 2800 watt onan rating is at sea level


you have to add up the watts of the stuff you are using, otherwise the genny will bog down and/or blow a breaker




the output of the genny will drop as you go up in elevation ( don't forget to adjust the carb on the genny)

[THEBRAIN]

Originally Posted by mkguitar

you should be able to


the 2800 watt onan rating is at sea level


you have to add up the watts of the stuff you are using, otherwise the genny will bog down and/or blow a breaker




the output of the genny will drop as you go up in elevation ( don't forget to adjust the carb on the genny)

yes I'm learning and taking notes on power usage and needs.

I was so anxious to start the generator I didn't even bother to check it's oil.

I'll have to crawl under there and at minimum check it's oil level & condition.
how often do you change oil ? how much oil & type of oil?is oil poured in or pumped in?

will 6" of elevation of rear end be enough to change the oil on generator?

centrel Alabama is 260' above sea level, my normal destination is at sea level.

plan to do the Inaugural flush tomorrow just a flush w/ nothing in there but water I pour in it.hope to not have to use it on my 1st trip.thanks Mike

[ChicagoTom]

REPLIES IN UPPER CASE.
When you say “don’t use city water” are you referring to a unknown to you source?
I was planning to flush the cleaning chemicals w/ city water but use a known source,
Like not at a RV parking spot. YOUR WATER RUNS OFF OF THE FRESH WATER TANK AND USING THE PUMP OR A CITY WATER CONNECTION FROM THE OUTSIDE. I'M REFERRING OT THE ISSUES IS CAUSES NOT THE QUALITY OF WATER, SO OK TO FLUSH.

I’m considering a solar panel but would like to mount permanently, maybe on top of
the AC cover I’m fabbing. The previous owner drilled a hole in the roof’s back vertical
section for a back up camera this hole needs a groumet but I can use to route SP wires.
YOUR CALL. I INSTALLED A BACKUP CAMERA AND NEVER ONCE USE IT.
I think the house battery cables are routed to the battery kill keyed switch in rear pass.
Side so mount the solar charge controller on sinks cabinet.
Been watching some vids. On solar. Now I understand why you mentioned to not get another lead acid
Or flooded battery bc of the maintaince of constantly refilling the batterys water sounds
Like a nasty job to be avoided.

I’d like to use my Gorge Foreman grill in van it’s use’s 1600watts use time is like
12 minutes so that appears to kill the house battery w/ a one time use.
When you have a device that sucks up a lot of DC juice do you crank up the generator.
Thanks Tom for advice. YOU CAN ONLY RUN WITH THE GENERATOR OR PLUGGED IN. WORST CASE YOU'LL BLOW A FUSE. NEVER RUN THE ROOF A/C AND MICROWAVE AT THE SAME TIME, OR IT WILL BLOW THE FUSE.

[THEBRAIN]

Originally Posted by ChicagoTom

REPLIES IN UPPER CASE.
When you say “don’t use city water” are you referring to a unknown to you source?
I was planning to flush the cleaning chemicals w/ city water but use a known source,
Like not at a RV parking spot. YOUR WATER RUNS OFF OF THE FRESH WATER TANK AND USING THE PUMP OR A CITY WATER CONNECTION FROM THE OUTSIDE. I'M REFERRING OT THE ISSUES IS CAUSES NOT THE QUALITY OF WATER, SO OK TO FLUSH.
are the issues city water causes blowing apart the vans plastic tubing due to to much preasure?https://www.amazon.com/Hourleey-Pres...a-904506718778
and what is a safe preasure for the PW?

I’m considering a solar panel but would like to mount permanently, maybe on top of
the AC cover I’m fabbing. The previous owner drilled a hole in the roof’s back vertical
section for a back up camera this hole needs a groumet but I can use to route SP wires.see image of hole drilled I don't like the location of this hole will fill w/ bondo then drill new hole in horizontal ceiling under the roof then route new back up camera wiring
YOUR CALL. I INSTALLED A BACKUP CAMERA AND NEVER ONCE USE IT. the primary use of the van is towing my ocean cruiser to the gulf of Mexico so I'm even more cautious backing up to hitch don't want the coupler contacting the propane tank I took the camera & monitor out of last van that camera the previous owner installed just screwed in camera and balled up the wiring no monitor, it will take injewknewity to route wire all the way to front, I may route wire under van I think there's a access hole in driver floor board I could mount the camera on bumper
I think the house battery cables are routed to the battery kill keyed switch in rear pass.
Side so mount the solar charge controller on sinks cabinet.
Been watching some vids. On solar. Now I understand why you mentioned to not get another lead acid
Or flooded battery bc of the maintaince of constantly refilling the batterys water sounds
Like a nasty job to be avoided.

I’d like to use my Gorge Foreman grill in van it’s use’s 1600watts use time is like
12 minutes so that appears to kill the house battery w/ a one time use.
When you have a device that sucks up a lot of DC juice do you crank up the generator.
Thanks Tom for advice. YOU CAN ONLY RUN WITH THE GENERATOR OR PLUGGED IN. WORST CASE YOU'LL BLOW A FUSE. NEVER RUN THE ROOF A/C AND MICROWAVE AT THE SAME TIME, OR IT WILL BLOW THE FUSE.

thanks for tip on microw wave & AC.
how many amp hours is your house battery got a link for it. thanks Tom

[THEBRAIN]

Originally Posted by booster

Others have fit a Roadmaster sway bar in with minor alterations. The Roadmaster has the arms to the rear to clear the stuff that is normally in the way.
.

this sway bar you write about is this a buick roadmaster SW? if yes what year models can I get one from? thanks

[TX-Trek]

Its a Roadmaster brand, not for a Buick Roadmaster.