bunch of ?s on my 1st RV

[TX-Trek]

Good to hear of your progress.
I'm wondering about the mechanicals and fluids, those need to be in good shape to get you back home. For me that stuff is of higher priority. Our last trip we traveled for hours on 2 lane roads without cell coverage and barely saw other vehicles - no guarantee things won't break but at least I've done my best to mitigate risk.

I almost always buy good used vehicles , but I always set a new baseline of maintenance, meaning everything gets a going-over, anything questionable or unknown (like transmission and differential, oil/filter, brake fluid for example) get replaced. I do all my own work so it's just cost of parts that's easier on the wallet and I keep records of maintenance and receipts for parts. My approach is methodical and boring lol. Consider coolant, hoses, belts etc as well, condition of brakes, suspension, steering in this baseline. It gives you a known starting point for vehicle condition. Just because something is working for the moment doesnt mean it can be assumed to be in good maintenance condition.

On the propane system for example, the regulator and a couple of the fittings had very small leaks. It was more straightforward to replace both regulators (main and BBQ outlet) plus the hoses and redo all fittings with fresh Rectorseal) than mess around with partial work. Doing this gave me that baseline I referred to, related in this case to the propane system.

[booster]

Originally Posted by TX-Trek

Good to hear of your progress.
I'm wondering about the mechanicals and fluids, those need to be in good shape to get you back home. For me that stuff is of higher priority. Our last trip we traveled for hours on 2 lane roads without cell coverage and barely saw other vehicles - no guarantee things won't break but at least I've done my best to mitigate risk.

I almost always buy good used vehicles , but I always set a new baseline of maintenance, meaning everything gets a going-over, anything questionable or unknown (like transmission and differential, oil/filter, brake fluid for example) get replaced. I do all my own work so it's just cost of parts that's easier on the wallet and I keep records of maintenance and receipts for parts. My approach is methodical and boring lol. Consider coolant, hoses, belts etc as well, condition of brakes, suspension, steering in this baseline. It gives you a known starting point for vehicle condition. Just because something is working for the moment doesnt mean it can be assumed to be in good maintenance condition.

On the propane system for example, the regulator and a couple of the fittings had very small leaks. It was more straightforward to replace both regulators (main and BBQ outlet) plus the hoses and redo all fittings with fresh Rectorseal) than mess around with partial work. Doing this gave me that baseline I referred to, related in this case to the propane system.

I think this is a sound way to look at it for any used vehicle. Buying used is a crap shoot even for the most experienced buyer in most cases.

When I bought my 96 Buick Roadmaster wagon I took a chance on site unseen one 600 miles away and got lucky. It made it home that day and turned out to be well maintained. I immediately changed all the fluids in and then continued to update anything that needed it over the next 5-6 years. By then I decided I would be keeping it until it or I wore out completely so I did the rest of a near total restore with a full bodywork and paint job, custom engine and rear axle build, rebuilt trans, every 25 year old sensor replaced, etc. Nearly all the potential service parts are new now except the alternator, starter, and AC compressor which I will probably do this winter. I now expect it to be nearly as reliable as a new car. Like Textrek, I do all my own work so costs are not anywhere as preventative as it would be to hiring it done. There is no way I would be able to justify the cost if I had to hire all the Buick work done as it would have been tens of thousands of dollars.

One thing in used vehicles that I have found over all the years is that I am very hesitant to buy any vehicle that has been very thoroughly detailed at the time of sale. Detailing can hide many things that you would want to see, like oil leaks, water leaks, aged out plastic and rubber parts, etc. I commonly would extend the hesitation to the radiator, oil, and trans fluids being just changed unless there were records of that being part of normal maintenance in the past also. Those fluids can tell you a lot about the condition of things and how well it was maintained.


One other thing to consider when buying used from a private party is the title condition. Of course it should be clean if any accidents only minor. Always buy a Carfax for it, and don't trust one from the seller as it might be fake. One point that has been becoming more and more clear to me is that it always pays to ask the seller, before you go to look at it even, if they have the title in their possession, if it is already signed for transfer (how that works can depend on the state), and if it is in the sellers name and would he show ID to prove it. This will help you weed out the "curbstoning" dealers and flippers that buy a car and have the seller sign the title transfer section then don't go to the DVM to actually get the vehicle transferred. It is called skip titleing around here and is legal for licensed dealers to do because they have processes to make sure the vehicle is insured in the dealer's name while a resale is in process, but for the gypsy type sellers it puts the liability still stuck on whoever sold them the car and you and them not knowing it. When I was very much younger, more trusting, and naive that did happen to me and I didn't know the guy hadn't transferred it until I got a license tab renewal notice from the state. I tracked him down and blew me off so the only way I got him to transfer it was to threaten to turn it in a stolen in two days if he didn't transfer it. Lesson well learned.


We got very lucky in getting our new, but on the lot 15 months, 2007 Roadtrek 190 for a price quite close to a 2-3 year old used one, so we know the maintenance and repair history completely. I tend to overdo rather than underdo preventative stuff so it has very good care and feeding over the years. But it is also 15 years old, so everything on it is that old and could fail tomorrow, or not for another 20 years. Older vehicles always carry some extra risk of breakdown compared to most newer ones.

[TX-Trek]

For those that may be looking at OBD compliant vehicles...
I also take my scan tool (if OBD) to look at live engine data that can show trims, fuel, etc . but especially to see readiness of emissions monitors. Seeing one or especially more than one as "not ready" can be a dead giveaway of cleared codes or battery was disconnected. A good indicator there's an issue that's being covered up.

This can apply to an RV as well since they are typically built on a known mfg chassis and drive train. TB, you should be able to scan your Express.

Incidentally, this site has VERY detailed info on your van systems and operation:
https://roadtrek190popular.blogspot.com/

If I politely ask and am refused to plug in the scantool, I walk away. No exception.

[THEBRAIN]

both you Guys make excellent points on the maintenance yes I do all the stuff I'm capable of doing.
when I buy a vehicle it's the one I keep for a very long time so I don't compromise no no, each part is like toward the investment,just like booster an his RM which is basically a 300+ HP smooth riding Cadillac. example my 99pontica trans am I didn't settle for a regular firebird. my FB I installed & I'm just a bolton Guy heads/cam/exhaust/HP tuners tune/suspension/rims/stero ect
extremely fast.
I wanted the top bird the WS6 (there actuely is a even nicer the firehawk but there impossible to obtain) what I'm saying is wait till you can get the desired model. I waited over 8 years for the PW or a RT it's what I wanted.
I'd neverbeen happy w/ a retarded van w/ a giant bed over the cab.

plus these van RVs are a 2nd car.

yes I strongly agree w/ pre-maintance whats that commercial say pay me now or pay me later lol.

I've actuelly been looking for a tow vehicle replacement for 3 years a 03+ 1500 express conversion, very hard to find. well I found one 8 months ago
& been fixing her up. then the PW fell into my lap had to jump on it right then an there.so I'm now emphasizing completing the 1500 and selling it while prices are high.
then concentrate on the PW. so I'm actuelly bouncing between the 2 vans.

I'm anxious to test all the systems on the PW. plumbing/gen-set/house battery & propane.
the house battery bin is irritating me seriously, when the lock is opening bin door doe's the linside lever move toward the front or toward the rear? bc I may have to crawl under there and start beating on the lever.

my other concern is I need bigger stronger rhino ramps & jack stands for the 8K LB PW
not sure what the weight capicty of ramps are, there made for low cars like my TA.my jack stands are the 17"2 ton https://www.walmart.com/ip/Hyper-Tou...B&gclsrc=aw.ds

when jack stands are rated for 2 tons in reality each is 1 ton correct?or is 1 JS actueely 2 tons bc sometimes I use one on it's own.

my ramps are the one piece old original rhino ramps not the multi piece contraption.

my floor jack is 3 ton.https://go.harborfreight.com/coupons...r-only-79-99/I have very few HF tools even before the collasped jack stand deal.

I think I need at minimum for right now is bigger jack stands.

when GM prints weight GVW lables there's a front weight and rear weight
is this for jacking & surporting ratings?

yes I have zero history of the PW I intend on replacing all fluids
1st remove transmission line run engine and pump out about 5 quarts then drop pan replace inside filter add a trans cooler add a 2nd extrenal filter in cooler line

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

have this big oil filter where it gets a breeze of air there's a 2nd cooler.I completely dissconnect trans fluid lines from rad, no sense to heat up then cool off.how many quarts in the big 4L80?
2nd oil & filter I had to add 3 1/2 quarts before hitting road home. also had to have the rear brakes caliptors rotor replaced before she was drivable.

all othe fluids changed.

I was thinking I could use both ramps tires still on incline part & JS under axel
when changing the rear end fuild, how much fuild here also is 90 weight the correct weight? and is whale sperm required?

yes to being prepared on long trips my Gulf trips are usalley no more than 250 miles one way.
spare parts carried rad tubes upper/lower also small heater tubes & clamps
drive belt, will a 5.3 litre belt fit the 6.0? fuel pump.
I'd like to make a trap door inside the cabin to access the fuel pump.
van has only 116K miles mite opt to keep a water pump on hand.

[booster]

I almost had a HF long frame 3 ton jack collapse. I was lifting the rear of the van and everything seemed to wiggle more than usual. I looked up and could see the lift arm leaning over some so I slowly lowered it. One of the stabilizing arms for the lift arm had load a snap ring and the lower pin had worked half way out, so it likely would have failed and dropped the van. Jack was at disassembled and at recycling in about an hour.


I now use two Arcan 3.5/3.25 ton jacks to lift the front because you can't lift in the center of the crossmember since the redesign in 2003. I use a jack under each side of the crossmember where it is much stronger and pump them together. I use one on the pumpkin in the rear. Harbor Freight doesn't sell that jack anymore, probably for good reason, but was nice to have the long frame.


Is you 2010 model on a 2009 or 2010 chassis? Big difference because the 2010 would have the very nice 6 speed transmission.


You can use the axle weights for lifting specs, if your within them, but GM uses them to rate the max capacity that the axle is designed to support safely. Generally the Chevies will be about 4300# front and 6080# in the rear which is mainly because of that being the max tire rating. Do you have the semi or full floating rear axle in yours?

[mkguitar]

the battery door latch should rotate counter clockwise to unlatch.


when I got mine the locks were a bit random I removed and reinstalled so that a vertical key slot indicates locked & horizontal unlocked, I can tell at a glance.


heavy van, be safe I use 6 jackstands when it's up in the air.


I had a "3 ton" HF jack ( new) blow a seal lifting a corner of my 72 Eldo..., way beneath capacity. can;t trust that stuff.

[THEBRAIN]

Originally Posted by booster

I almost had a HF long frame 3 ton jack collapse. I was lifting the rear of the van and everything seemed to wiggle more than usual. I looked up and could see the lift arm leaning over some so I slowly lowered it. One of the stabilizing arms for the lift arm had load a snap ring and the lower pin had worked half way out, so it likely would have failed and dropped the van. Jack was at disassembled and at recycling in about an hour.


I now use two Arcan 3.5/3.25 ton jacks to lift the front because you can't lift in the center of the crossmember since the redesign in 2003. I use a jack under each side of the crossmember where it is much stronger and pump them together. I use one on the pumpkin in the rear. Harbor Freight doesn't sell that jack anymore, probably for good reason, but was nice to have the long frame.


Is you 2010 model on a 2009 or 2010 chassis? Big difference because the 2010 would have the very nice 6 speed transmission.


You can use the axle weights for lifting specs, if your within them, but GM uses them to rate the max capacity that the axle is designed to support safely. Generally the Chevies will be about 4300# front and 6080# in the rear which is mainly because of that being the max tire rating. Do you have the semi or full floating rear axle in yours?

my PW is 04 model. I wouldn't concider a 010+ w/ the 6 speed that jerks inbetween shifts and cost twice to rebuild it's a unproven trans unlike the 4L80.

I'm not sure about the rear axel is it printed on options lable?

bummer on the engine cradel k-member isn't there a jack attachment so I can jack on k-memeber?

did you concider bottle jack or must the van be lifted w/ a floor type jack bc it rolls? thanks

I gotta get the house battery storage bin open.

[booster]

Originally Posted by THEBRAIN

my PW is 04 model. I wouldn't concider a 010+ w/ the 6 speed that jerks inbetween shifts and cost twice to rebuild it's a unproven trans unlike the 4L80.

I'm not sure about the rear axel is it printed on options lable?

bummer on the engine cradel k-member isn't there a jack attachment so I can jack on k-memeber?

did you concider bottle jack or must the van be lifted w/ a floor type jack bc it rolls? thanks

I gotta get the house battery storage bin open.

Interesting on 6L90 trans as I have heard nothing but rave reviews on them. The huge benefit of the 6 speed is that it is lockup nearly all the time, probably the jerking you mentioned because it happens very close the shiftpoint. Being locked up all the time makes it so the vans with the 6 speeds don't get to hot like the 4 speed ones do. You will probably find yours will also, especially if you are towing with it. Lots of stuff on this forum about helps and what doesn't help.


Easiest way to tell which axle is look at the rear axle with the hubcap or whole wheel off. If the end of the axle shaft is just steel and just barely sticking out further than the wheel center. If it a big chunk hanging out several inches past the wheel center with a ring of big bolts, it is the much beefier full floater.


Some lift them with bottle jacks, but I don't care for them or reaching under the van when lifting it. You could use a beam across the top of a jack in the center to lift it from the middle, but that has it's own risk of tipping. The best and safest way I have found is with the two jacks with one on each end of the K frame. The factory lift points are just behind the front arch of the frame which is very hard to get at with tanks in the way, and you also want to put the stands there. You can also lift it from the lower control arms, but you have to go up in steps and also be very careful about nicking the balljoint boots.


If it is the lock that won't open, you might be able to get it open by turning the entire lock in the hole. Many of them just have small arm the goes behind a piece of angle in compartment. The wholes are often round, as ours are from Roadtrek, so you can just put a screwdriver in the key slot and turn it 90%.

[THEBRAIN]

Originally Posted by mkguitar

the battery door latch should rotate counter clockwise to unlatch.


when I got mine the locks were a bit random I removed and reinstalled so that a vertical key slot indicates locked & horizontal unlocked, I can tell at a glance.


heavy van, be safe I use 6 jackstands when it's up in the air.


I had a "3 ton" HF jack ( new) blow a seal lifting a corner of my 72 Eldo..., way beneath capacity. can;t trust that stuff.

I scared of harbor freight since there jack stand collaspe heavist vehicle lifted was a saab97x which is a v8trailblazor dry weight 4650LB. where all do you place 6 JS and are they 2 ton type thanks.

Originally Posted by booster

Interesting on 6L90 trans as I have heard nothing but rave reviews on them. The huge benefit of the 6 speed is that it is lockup nearly all the time, probably the jerking you mentioned because it happens very close the shiftpoint. Being locked up all the time makes it so the vans with the 6 speeds don't get to hot like the 4 speed ones do. You will probably find yours will also, especially if you are towing with it. Lots of stuff on this forum about helps and what doesn't help.


Easiest way to tell which axle is look at the rear axle with the hubcap or whole wheel off. If the end of the axle shaft is just steel and just barely sticking out further than the wheel center. If it a big chunk hanging out several inches past the wheel center with a ring of big bolts, it is the much beefier full floater.
yes when the brakes where repaired I believe I observed several inches past the wheel center with a ring of big bolts, you speak of


Some lift them with bottle jacks, but I don't care for them or reaching under the van when lifting it. You could use a beam across the top of a jack in the center to lift it from the middle, but that has it's own risk of tipping. The best and safest way I have found is with the two jacks with one on each end of the K frame. The factory lift points are just behind the front arch of the frame which is very hard to get at with tanks in the way, and you also want to put the stands there. You can also lift it from the lower control arms, but you have to go up in steps and also be very careful about nicking the balljoint boots.


If it is the lock that won't open, you might be able to get it open by turning the entire lock in the hole. Many of them just have small arm the goes behind a piece of angle in compartment. The wholes are often round, as ours are from Roadtrek, so you can just put a screwdriver in the key slot and turn it 90%.

currently the key only turns 25% I will try the screwdriver.and report back thanks

I kindof knew I needed bigger JS & ramps didn't realize it was such a PITA.

I've been watching this man from Canada he has a RT and is very knowlegdable.

he made his own ramps they appear to be 2x10 pieces of wood. ramps are so much easier. what do you Guys think.

[THEBRAIN]

update good news is the largescrewdriver turned the whole lock inside the bins door I did had to pull up a bit but it's now open

bad news is the slider is seized I've soaked it in WD40.
haven't tested it's voltage yet. I suspect it's very low it doe's move the sofa very slowely.

I recently found out even totalley dead batterys can be revived one good battery connected to low battery (as low as 0 volts DC) w/ decent jumper cables then charge the good battery.
I have a newer el cheapo $50. Stanley It only charges up to 50amps.

w/out the good battery the stanley won't even reconize the dead battery an won't charge. it's drizzleing outside so I'll wait & let the oil soak in.

the slides appear very rusted.

I'm planning to replace some of the skeckie locks can these locks be keyed like a household lock where I have just one key.

doe's the house battery have to be fully charged to test toilet?
Thanks again Mike & booster

[booster]

Originally Posted by THEBRAIN

update good news is the largescrewdriver turned the whole lock inside the bins door I did had to pull up a bit but it's now open

bad news is the slider is seized I've soaked it in WD40.
haven't tested it's voltage yet. I suspect it's very low it doe's move the sofa very slowely.

I recently found out even totalley dead batterys can be revived one good battery connected to low battery (as low as 0 volts DC) w/ decent jumper cables then charge the good battery.
I have a newer el cheapo $50. Stanley It only charges up to 50amps.

w/out the good battery the stanley won't even reconize the dead battery an won't charge. it's drizzleing outside so I'll wait & let the oil soak in.

the slides appear very rusted.

I'm planning to replace some of the skeckie locks can these locks be keyed like a household lock where I have just one key.

doe's the house battery have to be fully charged to test toilet?
Thanks again Mike & booster

Good you got the door open so now you can get closer to it all.


Ditch the WD40 and get some PB Blaster or Kroil to get the slide loose. They both are orders of magnitude better for heavily rusted stuff.


The good battery doesn't really do anything for the dead battery, it just lets the charger initiate as they don't want to put uncontrolled voltage on the van so need a reference with some capacity.


Keep a close eye on to make sure the dead battery isn't heating up to much as the can get hot enough to be a fire hazard if shorted internally.


You should be able to buy the locks with the same key number, I think.


If you have city water hooked up the toilet will work without power, but if you are on 12v batteries they have to charged or on charge for the pump to work to run the toilet.

[THEBRAIN]

actualley the trays not badly rusted it mite be way in back. is there just one battery in there?
I was planning to get a grip on the tray w/ a c-clamp put feet on van an pull I'm pretty strong so maybe I mite get lucky. I also have a come along for extra pulling power.

I've read that the tray should be lifted before pulling on it?

yes you right on watching batteries charging, one video the man charged for half hour then stopped for hour then rinse repeat 5 times.

when I did this just the once so far I charged like 6 hours straight.

thanks again will report back it's raining right now but I'm happy to get this bin open.

[THEBRAIN]

TX-Trek are these your ramps (did your post odd man out get posted)?

https://www.harborfreight.com/13000-...set-63956.html

the wooden home made ramps wood alone would cost more,plus the weight, plus keeping them dry. wood mite not be for me.

3 ton jack stands
https://www.harborfreight.com/3-ton-...low-58345.html

my 17" mack jack stands paper lables don't say one word about rate capacity.
there model# of mine is 9331.
I've sean used stands advertised as 3 ton but model#9334

mine are the same physical size as what I link to for HF.I just assume there 2 ton.

I've read the real good JS are boxed underneth where they don't dig into driveway.

so is each JS on it's own 2 ton an 2 together is 4 ton?

if each is worth 2 ton that 2 JS will surport 4K LBs so thats good for front but 2K LB shy for rear.

think I'll try the HF 13K ramps for both front & rear.

[mkguitar]

there should be a sprung locking pin for the battery tray on the front left- I don't think I see it in your pic.

[THEBRAIN]

Originally Posted by mkguitar

there should be a sprung locking pin for the battery tray on the front left- I don't think I see it in your pic.

yes that spring pin is there it's pointing outward and I elevated it. dam the slide was jammed up.
I persuaded it to open. told myself if you can't open this slide you don't deserve this van.

weird that the house battery is completely disconnected however the sofa was powered?
theres a bunch of connections none have lables, I assume some connect to the inside back where the battery key is. I'll clean and try to identify each wire then lable.

the house battery had .5 Volts DC.
currently connected w/ decent jumper cables 6 gauge AWG to a full charged deep cycle battery charger is set to recondition.w/ a white battery can I see the water level?

is it recommended to open the water lids to let battery cool while charging? any tips on charging is appreciated, 1st time I revivved a battery I charged 5 hours for full charge 0 to 12.2volts DC.

the slide appears to be made of galvanized steel. seams like it's in decent shape like not totally ruined w/ rust. plan to clean w/ wire wheel then lube w/ marine grease.thanks Mike

edit: I believe the van has been sitting for extended time bc behind battery where a bunch of acorn shells either a mouse or rat was took up residense in batt. bin. but I didn't find a nest, hope I don't.

[booster]

Originally Posted by THEBRAIN

TX-Trek are these your ramps (did your post odd man out get posted)?

https://www.harborfreight.com/13000-...set-63956.html

the wooden home made ramps wood alone would cost more,plus the weight, plus keeping them dry. wood mite not be for me.

3 ton jack stands
https://www.harborfreight.com/3-ton-...low-58345.html

my 17" mack jack stands paper lables don't say one word about rate capacity.
there model# of mine is 9331.
I've sean used stands advertised as 3 ton but model#9334

mine are the same physical size as what I link to for HF.I just assume there 2 ton.

I've read the real good JS are boxed underneth where they don't dig into driveway.

so is each JS on it's own 2 ton an 2 together is 4 ton?

if each is worth 2 ton that 2 JS will surport 4K LBs so thats good for front but 2K LB shy for rear.

think I'll try the HF 13K ramps for both front & rear.

Ramps and jack stands are normally rated in pairs, so two tons is 4K# max. The rear of most class b vans is closer to 5-6K so you need at leas 3 ton ratings. I rarely have seen the rated per one stand or ramp.

[booster]

Originally Posted by THEBRAIN

yes that spring pin is there it's pointing outward and I elevated it. dam the slide was jammed up.
I persuaded it to open. told myself if you can't open this slide you don't deserve this van.

weird that the house battery is completely disconnected however the sofa was powered?
theres a bunch of connections none have lables, I assume some connect to the inside back where the battery key is. I'll clean and try to identify each wire then lable.

the house battery had .5 Volts DC.
currently connected w/ decent jumper cables 6 gauge AWG to a full charged deep cycle battery charger is set to recondition.w/ a white battery can I see the water level?

is it recommended to open the water lids to let battery cool while charging? any tips on charging is appreciated, 1st time I revivved a battery I charged 5 hours for full charge 0 to 12.2volts DC.

the slide appears to be made of galvanized steel. seams like it's in decent shape like not totally ruined w/ rust. plan to clean w/ wire wheel then lube w/ marine grease.thanks Mike

edit: I believe the van has been sitting for extended time bc behind battery where a bunch of acorn shells either a mouse or rat was took up residense in batt. bin. but I didn't find a nest, hope I don't.

12.2v is nowhere near a full charge. You should be in the 12.6 or more range to be full. Get the caps open and add water if it the type you can get to to add water. Don't fill to the very top, just to the bottom of cap inlet tube in each cell. Charge it again and without the caps on to see if any cells are gassing a lot compared to others (bubbling). Get a cheapo hydrometer at the auto store and check the specific gravity of each cell to see how even they are and what state of charge the battery really is after charging.

[TX-Trek]

Originally Posted by THEBRAIN

TX-Trek are these your ramps (did your post odd man out get posted)?

https://www.harborfreight.com/13000-...set-63956.html

the wooden home made ramps wood alone would cost more,plus the weight, plus keeping them dry. wood mite not be for me.

3 ton jack stands
https://www.harborfreight.com/3-ton-...low-58345.html

my 17" mack jack stands paper lables don't say one word about rate capacity.
there model# of mine is 9331.
I've sean used stands advertised as 3 ton but model#9334

mine are the same physical size as what I link to for HF.I just assume there 2 ton.

I've read the real good JS are boxed underneth where they don't dig into driveway.

so is each JS on it's own 2 ton an 2 together is 4 ton?

if each is worth 2 ton that 2 JS will surport 4K LBs so thats good for front but 2K LB shy for rear.

think I'll try the HF 13K ramps for both front & rear.

Yes I had posted but somehow it got lost lol.

Yes those are the ramps, very sturdy with no flex when the van is on them. HF 13,000lb ramps.

I use HF 3T jackstands, the newer version which has no recall. As I write this the van is on 8 of them as I finish up new hubs and brakes. But no matter what I use I have 4 solid wood blocks as failsafes under the van.

I also have 2 of their Daytona 4T low profile floor jacks, they don't strain at all lifting the tubby.

Absolutely nothing against other brands, but I see almost all coming from the same factory, just with different labels. I've had 2 instances of "major brand" failures but I think that can happen with anything.

Incidentally, the tray slides can be replaced. Different location on our van but here's my refurbish of the battery compartment.
https://www.classbforum.com/forums/f...tml#post121038

[THEBRAIN]

Originally Posted by booster

Ramps and jack stands are normally rated in pairs, so 2 two tons is 4K# max. The rear of most class b vans is closer to 5-6K so you need at leas 3 ton ratings. I rarely have seen the rated per one stand or ramp.

The hf Tx trek recommends look good.6500 per x2 13000 good for front & rear. I hope 6" lift will be enough to crawl under for oil/filer change/rear diff.oil ect. thanks

Originally Posted by booster

12.2v is nowhere near a full charge. You should be in the 12.6 or more range to be full. Get the caps open and add water if it the type you can get to to add water. Don't fill to the very top, just to the bottom of cap inlet tube in each cell. Charge it again and without the caps on to see if any cells are gassing a lot compared to others (bubbling). Get a cheapo hydrometer at the auto store and check the specific gravity of each cell to see how even they are and what state of charge the battery really is after charging.

the 1st battery I ever revivved was 12.2volts DC I thought anything above 12 V DC was full, so I stopped at 5 hours.
this battery is for my old tow vehicle that I damaged the engine on, I use this battery to move the TV so I can mow the overgrown grass around TV.

I tend to be extremely cautious around batterys exspecialley when charging and even more cautious when charging w/ new method of revivving.

I just started charging the PW house battery this morning
so far 3 hours of reconditioning. I forgot how I had it set on 1st revive. should it be on slow recondition or charge?

the PW has apparently 4 cables looks like 3 reds positive (2 thin 1 thick) and 1 black negative (thick).
where are these cables connected to inside? thanks

[THEBRAIN]

Originally Posted by mkguitar

not sure about propane tank, no expiry date on mine.


here is a pic ( probably upside down) of my water pump, fill hose etcAttachment 13231




you should probably remove the anode for the hot water heater- 1 1/16" socket, replacements are cheap on amazon. relieve pressure first by opening hot water taps or you may get a shower. once removed hose out any debris/sediment inside.

I thought my cruisers propeller socket was 1 1/16" well it is. it's a deep well.I'll remove anode is this a sacrificial anode like it rusts before the inside of water heater?thanks