Best Compressor Fridge Recommendations 2005 Roadtrek 190 Versatile

[themexicandoctor]

Gotcha Mate.

Here is a company that I will buy either my Novakool 3800* or Isotherm Cruise 100** from.

Aegis Marine in Newport Beach, CA - talk to Jim Lamb (800)747-3014

*there is also the 4500 that will also fit but it starts at 4.4amps versus the 2.2amps - the installer*** stated emphatically that the amount of existing upper & lower circulation we have in our Roadtreks, is superfluous to the needs of a DC Fridge that produce an infinitesimal small amount of heat compared to the Gas units

*without getting into a debate about posted usage versus ownership reality

**400 amps

without getting into a debate about posted usage versus ownership reality

***the installer is 73 & got a BSc in Thermodynamics & has been working on high end Marine installations all over the World for 50 plus years & until a few years ago he spent many months each year overseas in places like Italy, Monaco, Spain, etc. He is semi-retired & works out of his Home Workshop now - finding him was a Miracle & worth driving an hour plus to for the install when the unit arrives.

At first he leaned towards the Novakool but we are thinking through right now what will be the best unit of the two, he said both have a stellar track record & would perform at spec in our 190's with seamless install.

Ron knows his stuff!

Ron Lambda Enterprise (949)642-7967

[booster]

Originally Posted by themexicandoctor

*there is also the 4500 that will also fit but it starts at 4.4amps versus the 2.2amps - the installer*** stated emphatically that the amount of existing upper & lower circulation we have in our Roadtreks, is superfluous to the needs of a DC Fridge that produce an infinitesimal small amount of heat compared to the Gas units

I think there are quite a number of self installed units on here that will say that is unequivocally incorrect, including me.


I installed ours without any modifications to the venting through the external vents and it ran essentially continuously and would not get cold enough. Used way, way too much battery power besides.



Others on here have had to add additional fans or vents on various models of van for compressor frig installs, including factory installs that didn't work well.


Sure they generate a lot less heat than an absorption frig, but if what they do generate can't get out of the area, they won't cool well.

[GeorgeRa]

Originally Posted by themexicandoctor

BOOSTER,
………………………The ISEC only works with DC only electronic modules, so it will not work with an AC/DC one.[/B]
The ITC works with both DC only modules and AC/DC modules, specifically the new generation SeCOP control modules 101N0212 (DC only) and 101N510 (AC/DC) for BD35F / BD50F compressors. All new Isotherm fridges come equipped with the new generation SeCOP modules.
The ITC is essentially the newer, updated version of the ASU, and does have the same “Soft start-up” built into it. Newer units that originally came with the ASU, now come with the ITC.
It is not necessary to add either of these components, but there is added benefits when these are installed and used properly. Our literature state you can get energy savings from 30-50%.

The Smart Controller unit works on my Isotemp fridge with AC/DC controller. See the attached diagram. It is not a simple plugged-in interface; it has to be wired. Works fine since 2016. https://sprinter-source.com/forums/i...39#post-460058

[themexicandoctor]

Originally Posted by booster

I think there are quite a number of self installed units on here that will say that is unequivocally incorrect, including me.


I installed ours without any modifications to the venting through the external vents and it ran essentially continuously and would not get cold enough. Used way, way too much battery power besides.

Others on here have had to add additional fans or vents on various models of van for compressor frig installs, including factory installs that didn't work well.

Sure they generate a lot less heat than an absorption frig, but if what they do generate can't get out of the area, they won't cool well.

Going to relay your answers to Ron, I appreciate the feedback - before I met him my vision was an extractor type fan controlled by an on/off switch or a thermostat mounting to existing upper black Grill of the Roadtrek above whichever unit I chose.

I left out that it was both the Novacool Rep & Ron who said there was plenty of venting for the Novakool units with the fan & condenser at the bottom creating a Chimney effect (Ron initially recommended the Novakool for its simplicity & repair network if it goes sideways).

Ron did say the existing vent was fine for the Isotherm Cruise 100 because of the large venting up high & low heat produced plus this unit in particular unit is designed specifically for tight spaces - see link https://www.indelwebastomarine.com/us/products/fridges-freezers/cruise-marine-refrigerators/medium-fridges-65-100-l/cruise-100-classic/

I do know that Sportsmobile buy them buy the pallet load every month but also the 65, 85 & 130 however the 100 is their bread & butter install.

A very small # of people had issues with their ASU add on which has now been replaced by the ITEC Energy Saving unit that incorporates the Automatic Start Up technology.

[themexicandoctor]

Originally Posted by GeorgeRa

The Smart Controller unit works on my Isotemp fridge with AC/DC controller. See the attached diagram. It is not a simple plugged-in interface; it has to be wired. Works fine since 2016. https://sprinter-source.com/forums/i...39#post-460058

Are you saying that the factory rep made a mistake?

I must say there is a lot of conflicting posts about what part actually fits.

George did you add yours after & notice the savings or later after the install?

Would you recommend the add on, I have a 250 watt system with a Victron MTTP Controller & 2 healthy Lifeline AGM 100amp batteries & live in LA.

[GeorgeRa]

Originally Posted by themexicandoctor

Are you saying that the factory rep made a mistake?

I must say there is a lot of conflicting posts about what part actually fits.

George did you add yours after & notice the savings or later after the install?

Would you recommend the add on, I have a 250 watt system with a Victron MTTP Controller & 2 healthy Lifeline AGM 100amp batteries & live in LA.

I don’t think factory rep answer was incorrect, the Smart Controllers were designed to fit DC connector pattern, AC/DC models have different pattern which could be overcome by rewiring. Isotherm folks focused on highest volume product which are likely DC models. I figured out rewiring on my own after some conversation with technical folks at Isotherm. Their sales folks gave me similar answer in 2016.

I use my fridge for close to 3 years before adding Smart Controller, very noticeable savings in energy consumption from the battery and lower noise due to variable compressor speed and no more of the annoying capillary thermostat clicking.

We have 300W, Morningstar MPPT charge controller, and 2 x 115 Ah Fullriver batteries. Works well for us but more battery capacity (>300Ah) would help in low harvesting conditions. On exposed campsites our batteries are fully recharged before noon next day. Your design looks similar to ours, LA vs Oregon.

[themexicandoctor]

Originally Posted by GeorgeRa

I don’t think factory rep answer was incorrect, the Smart Controllers were designed to fit DC connector pattern, AC/DC models have different pattern which could be overcome by rewiring. Isotherm folks focused on highest volume product which are likely DC models. I figured out rewiring on my own after some conversation with technical folks at Isotherm. Their sales folks gave me similar answer in 2016.

I use my fridge for close to 3 years before adding Smart Controller, very noticeable savings in energy consumption from the battery and lower noise due to variable compressor speed and no more of the annoying capillary thermostat clicking.

We have 300W, Morningstar MPPT charge controller, and 2 x 115 Ah Fullriver batteries. Works well for us but more battery capacity (>300Ah) would help in low harvesting conditions. On exposed campsites our batteries are fully recharged before noon next day. Your design looks similar to ours, LA vs Oregon.

Thank you for your detailed answer, noise I can deal with & I have a Generator & drive a lot if I get low.

If I get the Isotherm I will get the ITEC, perhaps now its just a simpler bolt on unit?

The latest price for the Isotherm Cruise 100 with AC, residential delivery & ITEC was $1658 versus $1468 from another supplier.

The Novakool R3800 with the AC option was $1229.

Thank you again.

PS. Did you investigate the Novakool at all?

[GeorgeRa]

Originally Posted by themexicandoctor

Thank you for your detailed answer, noise I can deal with & I have a Generator & drive a lot if I get low.

If I get the Isotherm I will get the ITEC, perhaps now its just a simpler bolt on unit?

The latest price for the Isotherm Cruise 100 with AC, residential delivery & ITEC was $1658 versus $1468 from another supplier.

The Novakool R3800 with the AC option was $1229.

Thank you again.

PS. Did you investigate the Novakool at all?

No, I didn't. I was very familiar with Isotherm. Good convection cooling often resulting from location of the compressor could be most important. I only considered Danfoss.

[peteco]

Originally Posted by themexicandoctor

Thank you for your detailed answer, noise I can deal with & I have a Generator & drive a lot if I get low.

If I get the Isotherm I will get the ITEC, perhaps now its just a simpler bolt on unit?

The latest price for the Isotherm Cruise 100 with AC, residential delivery & ITEC was $1658 versus $1468 from another supplier.

The Novakool R3800 with the AC option was $1229.

Thank you again.

PS. Did you investigate the Novakool at all?

The West Marine ad paper I just got shows Isotherm Refrigerators for 20% off. Sale good thru July 5. I am on east coast so not sure if sale applies where you are.

[eric1514]

Originally Posted by themexicandoctor

...

PS. Did you investigate the Novakool at all?

I bought a Novakool R3100 to install in my Travato and although it did its job well enough, for approx. $1200 delivered to my door, it was very disappointing with regards to build quality and features. The evaporator coil used was too large for the box so they just folded it in half rather crudely and there were no conveniences inside the unit. Outside corners were sharp and the whole thing was not square. The Dometic I replaced was exactly the opposite. Cooling wasn't terrific but the inside had lots of moveable shelves and compartments and the build quality was mostly very good.

In my new coach, I have a large and nicely appointed Dometic absorption fridge that I think I will convert using a kit from these folks.

JC Refrigeration HVAC units

[themexicandoctor]

Originally Posted by peteco

The West Marine ad paper I just got shows Isotherm Refrigerators for 20% off. Sale good thru July 5. I am on east coast so not sure if sale applies where you are.

Thank you PETECO,

Checked WestMarine, they are asking something like $1360. Delivery isn't specified.

Aegis Marine in Newport Beach who referred me to Ron the Installer quoted me $1158 + $112* for the Energy Saving Module.

Delivery is $156.

*I need to call Isotherm again & find out what they meant by these paragraphs;

The ISEC only works with DC only electronic modules, so it will not work with an AC/DC one.
The ITC works with both DC only modules and AC/DC modules, specifically the new generation SeCOP control modules 101N0212 (DC only) and 101N510 (AC/DC) for BD35F / BD50F compressors. All new Isotherm fridges come equipped with the new generation SeCOP modules.
The ITC is essentially the newer, updated version of the ASU, and does have the same “Soft start-up” built into it. Newer units that originally came with the ASU, now come with the ITC.
It is not necessary to add either of these components, but there is added benefits when these are installed and used properly. Our literature state you can get energy savings from 30-50%.

Because it could mean;

1. All new units come with the ASU & ITEC/ISEC built in?

2. Or its a separate order?

George mentioned that he had to retrofit the unit.

In talking with the Installer he felt the no nonsense Novakool with the motor down below & the vent above might be a better fit, its a perfect chimney.

He did say, when I mentioned the venting issues affecting the power draw Booster experienced "If people were to leave the unit on 1 & 2 (warmest setting), if they have a little air, they will perform flawlessly but if they are turned up to 6 or 7 during really hot days, the compressor will always run.

I don't know if this is what happened specifically with Booster though & if you see this, would love to hear your opinion.

He did note unless there is an external or internal fan to take the heat away from a unit with the motor up top in our 190 scenario, there is a possibility of poor venting, more run time.

Ron is a big advocate for Venting, every year when he was in Italy custom designing units for mega yachts he would drive this point home but he said it always fell on deaf ears because even though it's commonsense, owners & retail buyers wanted installs with no visible vents - he said unless we could vent the units surreptitiously, the life expectancy of the best they produced was 2 years with the condenser always working.

Something to do with Installer Commonsense meeting Italian Design Aesthetics ...

If I go with a Novakool R3800 with AC DC, it's $1229 delivered to a Residential Address. The installer prefers the natural chimney.

But something, maybe the 50 hours plus laboring over this, is compelling me to invest in the advanced isothern technology.

[themexicandoctor]

Originally Posted by eric1514

I bought a Novakool R3100 to install in my Travato and although it did its job well enough, for approx. $1200 delivered to my door, it was very disappointing with regards to build quality and features. The evaporator coil used was too large for the box so they just folded it in half rather crudely and there were no conveniences inside the unit. Outside corners were sharp and the whole thing was not square. The Dometic I replaced was exactly the opposite. Cooling wasn't terrific but the inside had lots of moveable shelves and compartments and the build quality was mostly very good.

In my new coach, I have a large and nicely appointed Dometic absorption fridge that I think I will convert using a kit from these folks.

JC Refrigeration HVAC units

Thank you Eric,

Just as I was wavering to the practicality of the Novakool R3800!

I don't care about finish & I know its lacking on Novakool compared to others, Efficiency & Amp Draw is everything.

Something about Isotherm's legendary Marine Experience, their track record & their technical advancements is appealing.

[booster]

Originally Posted by themexicandoctor

Thank you PETECO,

Checked WestMarine, they are asking something like $1360. Delivery isn't specified.

Aegis Marine in Newport Beach who referred me to Ron the Installer quoted me $1158 + $112* for the Energy Saving Module.

Delivery is $156.

*I need to call Isotherm again & find out what they meant by these paragraphs;

The ISEC only works with DC only electronic modules, so it will not work with an AC/DC one.
The ITC works with both DC only modules and AC/DC modules, specifically the new generation SeCOP control modules 101N0212 (DC only) and 101N510 (AC/DC) for BD35F / BD50F compressors. All new Isotherm fridges come equipped with the new generation SeCOP modules.
The ITC is essentially the newer, updated version of the ASU, and does have the same “Soft start-up” built into it. Newer units that originally came with the ASU, now come with the ITC.
It is not necessary to add either of these components, but there is added benefits when these are installed and used properly. Our literature state you can get energy savings from 30-50%.

Because it could mean;

1. All new units come with the ASU & ITEC/ISEC built in?

2. Or its a separate order?

George mentioned that he had to retrofit the unit.

In talking with the Installer he felt the no nonsense Novakool with the motor down below & the vent above might be a better fit, its a perfect chimney.

He did say, when I mentioned the venting issues affecting the power draw Booster experienced "If people were to leave the unit on 1 & 2 (warmest setting), if they have a little air, they will perform flawlessly but if they are turned up to 6 or 7 during really hot days, the compressor will always run.

I don't know if this is what happened specifically with Booster though & if you see this, would love to hear your opinion.

He did note unless there is an external or internal fan to take the heat away from a unit with the motor up top in our 190 scenario, there is a possibility of poor venting, more run time.

Ron is a big advocate for Venting, every year when he was in Italy custom designing units for mega yachts he would drive this point home but he said it always fell on deaf ears because even though it's commonsense, owners & retail buyers wanted installs with no visible vents - he said unless we could vent the units surreptitiously, the life expectancy of the best they produced was 2 years with the condenser always working.

Something to do with Installer Commonsense meeting Italian Design Aesthetics ...

If I go with a Novakool R3800 with AC DC, it's $1229 delivered to a Residential Address. The installer prefers the natural chimney.

But something, maybe the 50 hours plus laboring over this, is compelling me to invest in the advanced isothern technology.

When they say the new frigs come with the new style "modules" they are talking about the compressor controls that actually run the compressor, I am pretty sure. The ITC would be an add on as temp and energy control. Kind of confusing for sure.


When we did our original testing the unit had the stock speed running initially, which I think is the third from the bottom speed, and if we had the mechanical thermostat set to get the rated 40-41*F in the box it ran continuously. That was about 90 degrees from warmest on the thermostat knob. If the ambient went higher than about 85*F it would not hold the 41* and ran warmer in the box. Note that this is in the van with no special venting done, just the upper and lower vents. On the bench in free air it had in the range of 20% on time and held temp easily.


When I put on the duct in the pictures, and blocked the rest of the area between the upper and lower vent we got identical power use and run times as we did on the bench, so it appears all of the extra power use was because of poor venting.



For reference now, in the van, the frig will hold 38*F in the box in 100*F ambient, with the sun on that side of the van, on the lowest compressor speed. Under those conditions it used a bit over 40ah per day and ran about 50% of the time.

[themexicandoctor]

Thank you Booster!

[themexicandoctor]

Thank you ERIC,

I just sent them some questions as to an AC/DC unit.

Booster what is your opinion of this technology?

Does anyone else have any experience with this company?

[eric1514]

Originally Posted by themexicandoctor

Thank you ERIC,

I just sent them some questions as to an AC/DC unit.

Booster what is your opinion of this technology?

Does anyone else have any experience with this company?

Please let us know what they say. I'm uncertain whether to go AC with an inverter or just DC. I really haven't heard much about their conversions, but it seems like a very economical way to go and they've been at it for a while. They were a possibility when I was converting the fridge in my Travato but they would only do the conversion themselves and wouldn't sell a kit. I don't remember their reasoning. Converting my 8 cu ft fridge for $600-$700 vs. buying a new one for $1200-$2000 sounds good to me.

[booster]

Originally Posted by eric1514

Please let us know what they say. I'm uncertain whether to go AC with an inverter or just DC. I really haven't heard much about their conversions, but it seems like a very economical way to go and they've been at it for a while. They were a possibility when I was converting the fridge in my Travato but they would only do the conversion themselves and wouldn't sell a kit. I don't remember their reasoning. Converting my 8 cu ft fridge for $600-$700 vs. buying a new one for $1200-$2000 sounds good to me.

I didn't see anything on the link that looked like it fit the smaller frigs that most have here. It did say in the install video that the DC unit is more efficient than the AC one is.



Sticker on compressor says Dutch something or other which may be house brand built with someone else's compressor and coil so can't see the compressor specs or daily efficiencies when put into any particular model frig.


I guess I would say may be OK, may be not so OK. Construction didn't look particularly robust though in the video unit. Personally, without some tested power use numbers I would stay away, but that is how I am on stuff like this.

[themexicandoctor]

OUR UNITS ARE TOO SMALL


Sorry we do not make them that small, only double or 4 door models

JR Lambright
JC Refrigeration LLC / DutchAire Hvac LLC
6495 W 200 N
Shipshewana IN 46565
260-768-4067/ jcref@centurylink.net www.jc-refrigeration.com

[hbn7hj]

The compressor conversion kits require 8” of free space behind the refrigerator. No class B I know of have that space. Mine certainly doesn’t.

I believe JC refrigeration uses the Danfoss compressor but I haven’t opened the box yet. I purchased a compressor cooling unit for a Dometic RM 2663 fridge. My class C has the 8 inches of space behind the refrigerator. Will post if I ever get it done.

[themexicandoctor]

Decided on the Novakool R3800.

It came down to the Novakool R3800, the R4500 or the Isotherm Cruise 100 Classic of which the latter is popularwith Sportsmobile.

From everything I have read from both the manufacturer & users;

1. This is the best unit in terms of stated* power draw

* this can be misleading but long term owners account supported this #

2. It fits perfectly into the Roadtrek 190 cut out Dimensions & is over 4 inches smaller in depth** than the Dometic RM2354.

**gives us more space to bring the rear of the unit that has the condenser, etc away from the hot skin of the Roadtrek while also giving more space for ventilation & less risk of water entry affecting the electronics

3. If there is ever a Warranty*** issue, they have the highest # of service providers.

***I never typically buy just to know there are more service locations

4. They are Canadian made, almost like America.

5. The Customer Service was prompt, accurate & deliberate, no ambiguity.

6. My installer, 50 years experience in high end Marine installations & a couple of others I spoke with said that because of the existing lower & upper vents on the Roadtrek 190****, creates with little modification, the perfect chimney effect.

****your needs might be different

7. They are an ugly finish compared to the sleek, Italian Isotherm*****, Vitrifrigo***** & TruckFridge units but this is limited to the exterior front which according to one owner, its a simple modification to add a Stainless Steel Sleeve to the existing door.

*****just discovered today that all three are made by the same manufacturer in Italy using the same Secop/Danfoss compressors but that the TruckFridge is usually anywhere from 15-35% cheaper.

8. Ended up buying the Novakool unit from Robert Pick at Southern California Marine in San Diego who are the licensed Novakool Distributor for $1229 befote tax with the AC Option, Delivery to a Residential Address.

Otherwise I recommend people purchasing the Isotherm units from Jim Lamb at Aegis Marine in Newport Beach. His price was superior on the Isothem but not with the Novakool.

If you are out of California & interested in Novakool, I recommend; https://www.campervan-hq.com/