Best Compressor Fridge Recommendations 2005 Roadtrek 190 Versatile

[avanti]

Originally Posted by mkguitar

Hey Fridge and Vent Guys- a question
Would it be practical to have a door to allow the fridge to vent heat into the RV for aux warming?

and during warm weather vent to heat to the out doors?

The fridge will not warm the van to any significant extent. It is simply pumping the heat round and round. The only heating effect will be from the minimal amount of electricity the compressor consumes.

Venting to the outside in the summer is a fine idea, though (except for the aesthetics of having an outside vent).

[themexicandoctor]

Heads Up: I don't know if he was trying to unload the Vitrifrigo or not but he did say (Southern California Marine), that because of the Roadtrek Venting, the Vitrifrigo was his choice.

Just discovered the LIST* Price of the Isotherm Cruise Elegance with AC/DC is $1350 & the new power saving tech device is now called the ITC, is $173.

*these are list prices only, he said dealers offer discounts

Here is the link to the power saving ITC;

https://www.indelwebastomarine.com/u...ature-control/

Thus far, it seems that the Nova Kool is the easiest installation & therefore least money - Marine Carpenters get expensive on little jobs like this even if they have the time - all my acquaintances are super busy weeks ahead.

[themexicandoctor]

Originally Posted by avanti

The fridge will not warm the van to any significant extent. It is simply pumping the heat round and round. The only heating effect will be from the minimal amount of electricity the compressor consumes.

Venting to the outside in the summer is a fine idea, though (except for the aesthetics of having an outside vent).

We already have vents Botham the bottom of the Roadtrek 190 that are about a 14x3 plastic grill & then on top a 26x5 steel grill.

Would venting out with an extractor van work this way?

[themexicandoctor]

Here is the photo.

For Novakool its not the standard 30x4 they want on the bottom but with an extractor fan on top it should create the right chimney effect.

What do you think?

[themexicandoctor]

Second photo with grill off

[InterBlog]

Originally Posted by themexicandoctor

T....really enjoyed the effort they put into that article. The challenge is will it fit in the 190 - you could feel the frustrations they went through making it fit into their cabinetry. I don't want that but if I can get some Vitrifrigo owners saying yes, I might buy one even though according to my measurements its a very tight fit.

LOL. Yes, frustrations. I felt like jumping off a cliff.

*However*

I have thoroughly enjoyed the Vitrifrigo C115 since that very day when our installation misery ended. It was worth it, without question.

I was amused by one of the responses above about how one of those other fridge models should not be placed near a heat source. Uh, that rules out Houston Texas in its entirety. I've measured the side of our van at 140 degrees F in summer sun.

Also, the OP is situated in southern California, if I read it right. I don't know exactly where, but there should be good customer service anywhere there's a healthy marina community. San Diego maybe? Lots of pleasure boats. There should be vendors there who handle the Vitrifrigo. People who own yachts have more money than many B owners. They have very high expectations of what their customer service should look like. I like to ride on their coattails whenever possible.

[themexicandoctor]

Very true, always near the Beach.

I would love this refrigerator but so far we are almost 1 3/8ths off unless I am missing something in Height.

It seems at the top my Dometic Flange mounts to the top of its cabinet & above that is the drawer that I could have raised slightly & cut down but there still isn't enough for the unit to fit H.

Or am I reading this wrong?

This is what I wrote the Salesperson about the difference;

This is my first install, you are the expert.

I don't mind spending $1500, I want the best but I do not want any cabinetry madness.

Any suggestions that come to mind when you look at the Vitrifrigo flange details?

These are the Vitrifrigo 115 details;
Overall width (In.) 23 1/8
Overall height (In.) 31 5/8
Overall depth (In.) 21 7/8

These are the Dometic RM2354 details,
Dimensions product depth 22 3/4 "
Dimensions product height 30 3/16 "
Dimensions product width 21 7/8 "
Net weight 63.94 lbs
Recess depth 21.34 "
Recess height 29.76 "
Recess width 20.51

[booster]

With the top and bottom vent, you will need to make venting allowances no matter what brand and wherever the compressor coils sit as the size and volume of the open area behind the frig is too large for the small amount of heat to create a chimney effect.



Our Isotherm came with a fan so that was plenty as long as we had the inlet duct and separated the upper and lower vents. Other units probably would need some kind of venting fan somewhere depending on the construction.


You may want to ask the Vitrifigo guy if they have any of the standardized testing for the unit he recommends, because as I mentioned earlier the amps when running aren't a good indicator of total power use over a day.

[Bud]

Here we go again, 2 threads.

You just posted on another thread a link concerning the solenoid failure with a cool cat. I did not read the solenoid part as I was familiar, but I did read with this link about what you're considering, compressor refer.

You may have read on this forum about using an energy efficient dorm refrigerator (lots of dollars left for batteries/solar/etc) You've probably read it already. The fellow in the link purchased one, and it is in the linkand still going strong, Best Buy and very inexpensive. You have probably read about this too. Mentioning it, just in case.

I considered a compressor refer prior to dealing with roadtrek's lousy refer installation and venting. It is now satisfactory, I suppose. If it had not been, I would have a compressor refer now. Enjoying reading about your refer thoughts. Bet you end up with a good solution.

Bud

[themexicandoctor]

Originally Posted by booster

With the top and bottom vent, you will need to make venting allowances no matter what brand and wherever the compressor coils sit as the size and volume of the open area behind the frig is too large for the small amount of heat to create a chimney effect.



Our Isotherm came with a fan so that was plenty as long as we had the inlet duct and separated the upper and lower vents. Other units probably would need some kind of venting fan somewhere depending on the construction.


You may want to ask the Vitrifigo guy if they have any of the standardized testing for the unit he recommends, because as I mentioned earlier the amps when running aren't a good indicator of total power use over a day.

Good answers ,& questions.

As for amps, Salespeople aren't always so forthcoming.

Do you have a front on photo of your fridge in your 190 that you could please show me Booster?

[themexicandoctor]

Originally Posted by Bud

Here we go again, 2 threads.

You just posted on another thread a link concerning the solenoid failure with a cool cat. I did not read the solenoid part as I was familiar, but I did read with this link about what you're considering, compressor refer.

You may have read on this forum about using an energy efficient dorm refrigerator (lots of dollars left for batteries/solar/etc) You've probably read it already. The fellow in the link purchased one, and it is in the linkand still going strong, Best Buy and very inexpensive. You have probably read about this too. Mentioning it, just in case.

I considered a compressor refer prior to dealing with roadtrek's lousy refer installation and venting. It is now satisfactory, I suppose. If it had not been, I would have a compressor refer now. Enjoying reading about your refer thoughts. Bet you end up with a good solution.

Bud

Bud,you might have me confused with someone else-I love my Cool Cat but rarely use it - did have the fan motor replaced once though.

[Bud]

Originally Posted by themexicandoctor

Bud,you might have me confused with someone else-I love my Cool Cat but rarely use it - did have the fan motor replaced once though.

I sure did. But I did think that I was talking with you.

Here is just the refrigerator part of the blog, if you're interested. Again, you're probably aware that an efficient dorm refer running on ac has been discussed here. Problem was, in order to use the scientific method, something has to Observable and Measurable. Anyone measured anything yet?

Economy Refrigerator - Roadtreker

[Davydd]

I have a NovaKool RF6800 two door in my current van. I am going to install an Isotherm Freeline 115 EL in my next van with a single door but a freezer that will take four frozen pizzas. I’m trying to pare my needs based on experience.

https://www.indelwebastomarine.com/i...-115-elegance/

[themexicandoctor]

Originally Posted by Bud

Here we go again, 2 threads.

You just posted on another thread a link concerning the solenoid failure with a cool cat. I did not read the solenoid part as I was familiar, but I did read with this link about what you're considering, compressor refer.

You may have read on this forum about using an energy efficient dorm refrigerator (lots of dollars left for batteries/solar/etc) You've probably read it already. The fellow in the link purchased one, and it is in the linkand still going strong, Best Buy and very inexpensive. You have probably read about this too. Mentioning it, just in case.

I considered a compressor refer prior to dealing with roadtrek's lousy refer installation and venting. It is now satisfactory, I suppose. If it had not been, I would have a compressor refer now. Enjoying reading about your refer thoughts. Bet you end up with a good solution.

Bud

Originally Posted by Bud

I sure did. But I did think that I was talking with you.

Here is just the refrigerator part of the blog, if you're interested. Again, you're probably aware that an efficient dorm refer running on ac has been discussed here. Problem was, in order to use the scientific method, something has to Observable and Measurable. Anyone measured anything yet?

Economy Refrigerator - Roadtreker

The Observable & Measurable hasn't happened with me.

For me, its never the money until its the money - Class B Ownership is all about staying ahead of the Learning Curve & knowing when to invest on certain aspects of that Ownership.

[themexicandoctor]

Originally Posted by Davydd

I have a NovaKool RF6800 two door in my current van. I am going to install an Isotherm Freeline 115 EL in my next van with a single door but a freezer that will take four frozen pizzas. I’m trying to pare my needs based on experience.

https://www.indelwebastomarine.com/i...-115-elegance/

Thank you Dayvdd,
I found a forum in Australia where people seemed to be very frustrated with Novakool performance in the LARGE UNITS - here it is:https://www.caravanersforum.com/view...hp?f=2&t=33957 - Australians tend to be vocal when annoyed.

I like the 115 Isotherm but its too wide for my individual application - good luck with your new fridge, please keep us posted.

I do like Isotherm & Vitrifrigo because you just cannot make a poor unit & survive in the Marine industry.

[hbn7hj]

From the dimensions it looks like the Novakool r4500 would be the best replacement.
Expand the electrical system to run it.

[themexicandoctor]

Looked carefully at the 4500 but its double the stated amp use. I already have 250 watts & there is very little space to add a third panel - moteover I am more than happy with 3 cubic liters as a starting point.

Have you owned a NovaKool R4500 before?

[hbn7hj]

Originally Posted by themexicandoctor

Have you owned a NovaKool R4500 before?

Nope, but looking at it. The power used is more a consequence of the insulation and venting. It appears the 4500 has a larger compressor which means it would run less for the same box.

I would choose the larger compressor.

[themexicandoctor]

Originally Posted by hbn7hj

Nope, but looking at it. The power used is more a consequence of the insulation and venting. It appears the 4500 has a larger compressor which means it would run less for the same box.

I would choose the larger compressor.

This.concept I didn't consider - has anyone else considered it from this viewpoint?

[booster]

I think we keep gravitating back to the running amp specs on the frigs, which is, as I have said often, not any real indicator of how much energy and battery capacity the frig is going to use. The only real thing the amp spec is good for is choosing the fuse size to put in. The only way to compare the frigs efficiency, that I know of, accurately is to test them under the same controlled conditions. I know Isotherm publishes that data, with the reference to the test conditions and IIRC some industry standard procedure callout. It is stated in watt hours of power needed in 24 hrs, I think. Very similar to the domestic frig specs that list cost per year to run in the energy tag data.



As an example, I can make our frig run at mid 2's for amps and all the way up to about 4 amps be changing the compressor speed, but the best efficiency of the compressor is not at either of these amp settings per the Danfoss compressor efficiency charts I have posted several times. The charts show a bit above minimum speed (voltage) for maximum btu removal per watt hr of energy use. That said, we usually run at the slowest or second speed because the long runs keep more even interior temps in the frig.


A larger compressor would probably not be as efficient as a smaller one in most cases, I think, as it would cycle more often and the highest power use is in startup. You would have to look at the compressor efficiency charts for the actual compressors to see if one is actually more efficient running or not at any given btu per hour rate. Manufacturers will use the smallest compressor that can handle the worst case loads to keep the longest run times (it also reduces cost somewhat in most cases). They then have to chose the right speed for the compressor to balance run time, cool, down time at start, etc, against efficiency.


IMO, if you contact the frig manufacturer and ask for the standardized testing results for the frig you are considering, and they say the don't have them or won't give them to you, it is time to go somewhere else because they are either less efficient and don't want it known, or haven't bothered to test properly and are incompetent.