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Old 08-03-2024, 02:28 AM   #1
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Default Battery isolator

I would like to see a picture of the under hood red battery isolator hook up. I think the one in my 2005 RT210 is wired wrong.
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Old 08-03-2024, 01:55 PM   #2
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This might help. Hard to get a real good pic. This is an 05c210v
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File Type: jpg Isolator.jpg (237.1 KB, 44 views)
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Old 08-03-2024, 05:29 PM   #3
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Bangorbob, is that an original or replacement?
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Old 08-03-2024, 06:13 PM   #4
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I don't know. A few owners before me. I believe if it was a replacement, the previous owner(s) replacement with like item. I'm probably going to replace it with a separator.

https://www.eaton.com/tw/en-us/catal...eparators.html
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Old 08-03-2024, 06:22 PM   #5
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I don't know anything about a separator. Was hopping to just buy a direct replacement but they seem to be hard to find. I wish I had the part # off the one in my rig, but the sticker is unreadable
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Old 08-03-2024, 06:29 PM   #6
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Do you belong to Facebook? I joined because there is a facebook group for roadtreks which provides a grunch of info.
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Old 08-03-2024, 07:54 PM   #7
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A separator charges both house and chassis battery when plugged into 120v and when driving down the road. An isolator only charges the chassis battery. I do not take any credit for this knowledge. I am just passing it on.
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Old 08-04-2024, 11:27 AM   #8
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I have a pdf file on how to install and test isolators on my google drive:
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1C9E...usp=drive_link
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Old 08-04-2024, 09:44 PM   #9
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billn, thank you very much great info. Does anyone know the part number for the "Red"colored isolator that came on the 2005 RT. The one on my 2005 TR210 is
6 1/2"x 4"x 2 5/8" and has 2 circuit breakers, 1-12v 1amp and 1- 12v 50amp mounted on the top of it.
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Old 08-08-2024, 04:05 PM   #10
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My van battery kept draining overnight. My corner garage mechanic disconnected the red isolator. This stopped the problem, but the house battery no longer got charged while driving. Seeing the price of a new isolator, I opted for a high amperage relay and managed to install it properly. This does not allow for van battery charging while plugged it, but has worked perfectly for several years. KISS!


Search Amazon for:
Max 300A Continuous Duty Solenoid Relay Nickel-Plating for Golf Carts,Winch, Marine in Rush 12VDC


Initial connecting took some headscratching but should it fail, hooking up the new one will be easy.

kk
2007 RT 190P
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Old 08-08-2024, 04:15 PM   #11
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Not easy to follow the wires in the photo. If you want any more specific information, I'll try to get that.

The isolator is Hehr, but I can't see the number.

I saved this info, maybe of some help to you:
The 4-terminal isolator has 3 internal diodes. Their anodes are all connected together at the large terminal for the main alternator output. The cathodes of 2 diodes are are each connected to one of the other large terminals that go to the batteries. The cathode of a third diode is connected to the small terminal for the small wire to the alternator. This provides a voltage feedback signal for the voltage regulator for the alternator. The idea is that the voltage drop of the small diode feeds back less voltage than the alternator puts out so that the voltage regulator will boost the output of the alternator to compensate for the voltage drop of the main diodes to the batteries.
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Old 08-08-2024, 07:15 PM   #12
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According to BangorBob, it appears that I mixed up isolator and separator. So, I replaced the red separator with a relay isolator, not the other way round. I am very happy with the results, plus I saved money. It not only works, but I actually can comprehend how it works.
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Old 08-11-2024, 10:39 PM   #13
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The 2 outer posts are marked B1 and B2. Does it matter which battery is attached to which?
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