Batteries gone ...

[themexicandoctor]

This is the latest that was given to me not by the final installer but a Marine Expert when I sent him the photos of the fan set up, the wire gauge, etc.

He asked about what type of Condenser they are using & I sent him photos & this is what he said;

Now I see
It's a vertical wire and tube
And It does not need any fan at all.
The fan you see is only to keep air moving over the module.

When the units running, just put a meter on the 12volts at the module .... it should be around11.8 to 12.3 v dc
And yes the module is where all the wires connect to

Does this help anyone get a better feel for what is happening?

Tomorrow I will be at the last installer's place in Burbank & will have more answers.

He also said that on that module there is a connector to add a secondary fan ie; an exhausr fan if needed.

He also stated that contrary to the Novacool engineer, when these units are forced to start up frequently they do NOT have a spike in electrical demand ie; more amps like typical systems.

[hbn7hj]

My compliments to MD for sharing the installation ups and downs and doing it his way.

The original install had a 4” fiberglas insulation block taped to the top of the fridge. This was very important to the propane fridge install because without it the heat from the burner would collect on the top and pretty much destroy any cooling function. If that gap is there on the new install it would probably be good to fill it.

[themexicandoctor]

Originally Posted by hbn7hj

My compliments to MD for sharing the installation ups and downs and doing it his way.

The original install had a 4” fiberglas insulation block taped to the top of the fridge. This was very important to the propane fridge install because without it the heat from the burner would collect on the top and pretty much destroy any cooling function. If that gap is there on the new install it would probably be good to fill it.

I remember that flap, it was screwed on with Phillips Screws, I tossed it.

Are you saying I should have left it or tossed it?

[GallenH]

I vaguely (getting more common) remember (getting less frequent) some people talking about putting a fan above the fridge to draw air into their microwave compartment therefore exhausting it into the cabin interior. Do many employ this strategy?

[themexicandoctor]

From an earlier thread I see that I overlooked an unambiguous statement from Eric1514 who when I asked him about his draw on the Novakool R3100 (30% smaller), he was very clear in stating that he averaged 40-50amp hours per day which is about 480-600 watts per day which is about my average on a good day without messing with raising the charged voltage setting from 13.2 - 13.4.

Yes by tinkering the same way & after these huge demands theNovakool fridge has asked for the last few days of this heatwave, I have seen yields in excess of 900 to 1.3k watts.

Again, my concern was the nighttime averages like 7.30pmto 7.30am & 52amp hours used which is easily 104 during a 24 hour period.

[themexicandoctor]

Originally Posted by GallenH

I vaguely (getting more common) remember (getting less frequent) some people talking about putting a fan above the fridge to draw air into their microwave compartment therefore exhausting it into the cabin interior. Do many employ this strategy?

I hope you are not being turned off the idea of a DC Compressor Fridge by my temporary issue with the Novakool Mate, they are usually very simple units with a Bulletproof Design.

This must be a temporary issue that isnt driven by the Heatwave.

[hbn7hj]

Originally Posted by themexicandoctor

I remember that flap, it was screwed on with Phillips Screws, I tossed it.

Are you saying I should have left it or tossed it?

You should keep it or replace with a block of insulation. It was very important to the propane model and at the least it would keep outside hot air off your new one.

[themexicandoctor]

YesI tossed it.

But it wasn't a very effective barrier.

I think that it was only a few inches longer than it was wide.

And that perhaps it was supposed to work on protecting the flame from being blown out.

I do know Booster built a whole baffle to create a Chimney effect.

My presumption is that the hot air is going to rise anyway, high above the level of the fridge, into & hopefully out-of, the upper vents.

[avanti]

Originally Posted by GallenH

I vaguely (getting more common) remember (getting less frequent) some people talking about putting a fan above the fridge to draw air into their microwave compartment therefore exhausting it into the cabin interior. Do many employ this strategy?

My venting system involves a vent and fan near the top of the fridge compartment that exhausts hot air into a large adjacent closet, where it leaks out into the cabin via the big, non-tightly-fitting closet doors. This is the fan that is controlled by the above-mentioned thermostatic heat-modulated controller. Works great, and keeps our jackets nice and toasty in the winter.

[themexicandoctor]

Spent 30 minutes with the installer.

1. Wite Gauge is actually 10 (remembering that as a 3 way, it had to carry DC Current).

2. Crimes, etc are fine & with a Clampmeter, it was running 2.1amps. The fan, never turned off.

I put my hand on the compressor, wasn't running too hot at all.

3. Next week when they build out my new Battery Box under the bed they will check again.

4. The Verdict; Global Warming.

Its been ridiculously hot here, too hot.

Right now its presently 96 degrees outside in Burbank, with the Front Cab at 116, the Fridge at 38.8 & the Rear Lounge at 103.4

[themexicandoctor]

What I meant by the Global Warming comment is that its ridiculously hot, and while we are supposed to be out of the Heatwave, the #'s haven't gone down.

My installer said until the temps drop, its very hard to ascertain what is happening.

[themexicandoctor]

These are 4 temperatures from inside my car around 2.30pm today ...

[peteco]

Originally Posted by themexicandoctor

These are 4 temperatures from inside my car around 2.30pm today ...

What is freezer temp?

[themexicandoctor]

Originally Posted by peteco

What is freezer temp?

That is a good question that I do not know only because i used the sensor in the fridge, on the rear wall.

What was frozen before stays frozen for sure.

My concern was alwaus milk, etc.

[peteco]

Originally Posted by themexicandoctor

That is a good question that I do not know only because i used the sensor in the fridge, on the rear wall.

What was frozen before stays frozen for sure.

My concern was alwaus milk, etc.

Just curious about ice cream capability. 0-5 deg to store. 6-10 deg to scoop and eat.

[GallenH]

By Phoenix standards those are warm. It's not uncommon for me to get a reading of 112 inside when the RV is in the driveway....before this Hwave. It is however..........a dry heat. [now the humidity is actually up with the monsoon season].

That's why our strategy is to load up in the morning and drive. Night temps allow the absorption fridge to get down low enough and we're usually up to higher elevations before noon.

[Peder_y2k]

My limited AGM experience is with motorcycle batteries, and their life expectancy is a mere 3 years, which is much less than flooded types that with adequate maintenance can last 5 - 6 years. So, enjoying the maintenance free AGM's I now buy the cheapest I can find at $35 vs $80 for a good brand 3 year battery.

[booster]

Originally Posted by Peder_y2k

My limited AGM experience is with motorcycle batteries, and their life expectancy is a mere 3 years, which is much less than flooded types that with adequate maintenance can last 5 - 6 years. So, enjoying the maintenance free AGM's I now buy the cheapest I can find at $35 vs $80 for a good brand 3 year battery.

That is a good point, and that scenario or wet cells lasting longer is very often and indication of consistent overcharging from the alternator. It is quite common in many vehicles. Wet cells tolerate overcharging somewhat better than AGM as the water that gets used can be replaced, where an AGM dries out and fails.

[yvairguy]

This thread popped up on my email today and I've tried to read through most of it...

It looks like 90% of your problem is you need to get the heat from out of the compartment behind the refrigerator.

I would put in a fan over the screened area on the floor in that compartment to push the hot air under the rig.

[themexicandoctor]

Originally Posted by yvairguy

This thread popped up on my email today and I've tried to read through most of it...

It looks like 90% of your problem is you need to get the heat from out of the compartment behind the refrigerator.

I would put in a fan over the screened area on the floor in that compartment to push the hot air under the rig.

Will present your idea, Thank You.

It appears Heat stvthe back of the fridge isn't an issue, there is plenty off upper air vebting, the critical factor was the fan was positioned too far away from the electronic modukle that it brings air over & extracts up into the very large 37inches x 21inches x 7 inches cavity behind the fridge.

Its very well vented below & has the same size Roadtrek Vents up top.

I moved the Temperature Sensor off the back "skin" of the Chevy body opposite the fridge & placed it against the upper vent baffles, the temperature dropped 12 degrees very quickly.

The other factor, this Heatwave, it feels like Hawwaii right now.