Baselining my 2001 Roadtrek van?

[rstl99]

Booster,
Thanks for the background info on coolant issues etc. I need to "refresh" myself on these matters... Trying to make these old rigs last... and avoid unnecessary mechanical surprises on the road (preventative maintenance - gotta love it).

[booster]

Originally Posted by rstl99

Booster,
Thanks for the background info on coolant issues etc. I need to "refresh" myself on these matters... Trying to make these old rigs last...

I did find what I think the Mopar in your year, which appears to be first year for HOAT.


Original number MS-9679 but now appears to have a G on it.


http://https://www.amazon.com/Genuin.../dp/B0089LTJDQ


I did not find what additives is does have, but I am sure it is out there somewhere.

[rstl99]

Here's a photo of the coolant in my rad. green and very clean looking. Hard to know just what kind of coolant was put in there, but it looks clean enough to be left alone in my opinion.

[booster]

Originally Posted by rstl99

Here's a photo of the coolant in my rad. green and very clean looking. Hard to know just what kind of coolant was put in there, but it looks clean enough to be left alone in my opinion.

That looks like the typical stuff used for decades so probably changed from new spec that came in just that year of your chassis. This is what would have been used the year before if what I read is correct. It is very unlikely anything in the engine changed and the older ones had no issues that required the change that I have heard of. It usually is called out as a 36 month lifespan. It looks quite diluted so a specific gravity check probably would be a good idea with a plain old cheapo tester. I also would let it go for right now and probably not even change it back if it all looks good when the radiator and block are drained. Sometimes the samples look different coming from the bottom of both places.

[SteveJ]

Originally Posted by rstl99

Here's a photo of the coolant in my rad. green and very clean looking. Hard to know just what kind of coolant was put in there, but it looks clean enough to be left alone in my opinion.

Coolant can look good and still be "worn out".

JMHO, but I always change it out as part of baselining if I have no history on it. New coolant is a lot cheaper and easier than a new radiator and/or heater core.

[Hammernine]

I bought a 2004 RoadTrek 200 for myself and a 1998 190 for my daughter. I did a fluid change, radiator flush, on both complete. I did not do read end on 1998 190 as it only has 44,000 miles.

[ericw]

While it's not a "fluid" per se, you might want to think about the fuel pump at some point. I own a '95 Sportsmobile with the 5.2L and the fuel gauge sender stopped working many years ago. Started noticing an occasional stumble going around curves and decided to replace the pump based on unhappy experiences in the past. Now my fuel gauge works again, and no more stumbles detected. If you are DIY-tolerant it's not too bad of a job for a 1/2 day or less. It can be done by one stubborn individual, but having a second set of hands would be very useful.


Just something to think about. It's a lot easier to do it on a cool afternoon in your driveway than having the pump die somewhere... shall we say, inconvenient!


Eric W.

[Peder_y2k]

A true Synthetic motor oil has a tendancy to find places to leak in high mileage motors (over 30,000 miles) as it cleans the internals removing blockages created by mineral base oils. You can expect oil spots on your driveway

[rogerstg]

Originally Posted by Hammernine

I did not do read end on 1998 190 as it only has 44,000 miles.

How many miles does your manual recommend? Remember, 100% of driving a camper van is at near vehicle capacity.

My 2002 with 45000 had rear axle fluid that was gritty and dead, like muddy water.

[Bert M]

You most likely have a limited slip differential (LSD). If you change the diff fluid, be SURE to add a LSD additive. Otherwise the clutch plates in the diff may stick together and make horrible noises, in particular when the diff is hot on low speed turns. Ask me how I know. Some gear oil has additive already in it, but I would still add a separate bottle. Mopar and Yukon seem to be two good additive brands.

[rogerstg]

Originally Posted by Bert M

You most likely have a limited slip differential (LSD).

I don't have an LSD, though I wish it did.