Advancing Alvar

[avanti]

Thanks, Mike. Great tips.

Did they do anything special underneath to protect the water system, beyond wrapping the pipes with the Espar coolant return lines (which is a great idea that I am going to emulate).

[Davydd]

Our heat is blown out from under the kitchen galley baseboard located right at the foot of the bed directly across from the bathroom door. We have now slept in overnight temperatures below freezing more than a half dozen times all the way down to 5 degrees with water in the fresh water tank. We use sleeping bags and have been comfortable. In fact we either leave the heat off overnight or we turn it down as far as possible which is 54 degrees it seems. We used the electric radiant floor in a boondocking situation on that 5 degree night and the battery capacity was enough to handle it. We went down to 31% that night.

The snap on insulated cover for the MaxxAir fan was a nice touch. The bathroom skylight is double glazed with an inside light separate from the outside black dome. The walls are well insulated as possible and I am sure the throughout HushMat is helping a lot if nothing more than great sound dampening for sleeping at Walmarts. The curtains are lined and keep out light 100%. I think since they are not only heavy curtains and lined they also are good insulators. Those double day-night shades I had on both my Pleasure-way and Great West Van were next to worthless now in retrospect. Those kind of curtains seem very popular in RVs. We didn't opt for the insulated front and back curtains but could add them at any time. I doubt we will given our experience. Sound and light blocking have been the highlights so far that we never had in our two previous Bs.

If you have watched the Advanced RV videos you know about how the glycol lines are insulation wrapped with the water lines and run down a groove in the fresh water tank. It seems to work fine. We started out with a outdoor shower faucet, the single handle kind that mixed hot and cold water. It froze that first night. It wasn't damaged but we went back to ARV and had it rebuilt with water lines that will not fail under a frozen condition and separate quarter turn ball valves for hot and cold water that will not be susceptible to freeze damage. In the future I suspect they might engineer an inside accessible shutoff valve which couldn't be done on ours. We originally weren't going to get an outside shower with our nerf bar design but they snuck it in. We suffered with being the first on that. The nerf bar will be the standard design for the EcoRanger 4x4 ARV but optionally you could go with the conventional fiberglass skirts. That outside shower connection was the only weak link to a winter system. There true winterizing system with pink anti-freeze is designed to avoid anti-freeze in the fresh water tank. We won't experience that until next fall.

For waste, simply filling the tanks with some pink anti-freeze will work in the winter assuming you use minimal water only as necessary, not camp in continuous below freezing temperatures. The grey and black tank valves are ahead of the macerator which stays dry. One scenario in 2014 it took us 3 whole days to reach South Padre Island before we got out of freezing temperatures. We had to spend two nights in hotels because our Great West Van was not survivable in single digit temperatures. Now, it makes no difference with Alvar. We half filled our fresh water tank at ARV. Our first night was 5 degrees. Our second and third night were in the teens. We got down to -5 at home and hadn't winterized. We just plugged in and left the heater and hot water on for two days as insurance. The Espar heating system can be switched over to electric when plugged in.

[Davydd]

Originally Posted by pattonsr

Could you post a picture of the Silverleaf screen thats shows the amperage charge or negative drain? The picture of the Lithium status screen was worth a thousand words.

Also is your portable Max Burton induction cooktop the 6200 or 6400 model?

Barry,

Our electric induction cooktop is not a Max Burton. It is a Frigidaire portable induction burner. Another advantage of portable is I can replace it easily with anything.

The Silverleaf screen is pretty simple. It shows a battery symbol like a gauge for percent available both by number and visually. To the left is the temperature. If you touch that battery symbol it brings up the detail screen of each cell. Below is the current voltage and the -!A is how much is being currently drawn out. Typically that might be a -10A but when I took this particular photo there was some solar contribution. If the engine is running that number could change over to a + number showing something like +200A. If I ran the microwave that number would be something like -140A.

Next to that battery symbol is the inverter symbol. When the inverter is on there usually is a series of chevron arrows pointing to it or vice versa. Also, in answer to a Booster question, I saw one time the words "equalizing" and the chevron arrows pointing to the battery. The Charger High Power would be with 30 amp service. If using the 15 amp adaptor you should switch to low power.



This is the home screen. To get to the previous screen you tap on the DC Power button.

[avanti]

Originally Posted by Davydd

if you have watched the Advanced RV videos you know about how the glycol lines are insulation wrapped with the water lines and run down a groove in the fresh water tank. It seems to work fine. We started out with a outdoor shower faucet, the single handle kind that mixed hot and cold water. It froze that first night. It wasn't damaged but we went back to ARV and had it rebuilt with water lines that will not fail under a frozen condition and separate quarter turn ball valves for hot and cold water that will not be susceptible to freeze damage.
In the future I suspect they might engineer an inside accessible shutoff valve which couldn't be done on ours.

Thanks for this info. The outside shower is one of the things I am struggling with. I don't mind the shower not being usable in freezing weather, but I don't want to have to worry about damage. The ball valves are a good idea. Do you have the hot and cold lines come together after the ball valves to enter the shower hose?

The problem with a shutoff valve is that it doesn't really solve the problem. One would have to blow-out the system before closing it. Otherwise the fixture would be full of water even with the valve closed. I have considered 3-way diverter valves which would permit me to blow out just the shower line, but that is a lot of hassle for a small problem. I like your approach.

There true winterizing system with pink anti-freeze is designed to avoid anti-freeze in the fresh water tank. We won't experience that until next fall.

I am of the "blow it out with air" persuasion. This has always worked just fine for us, and it is much simpler and more pleasant than pink stuff in the potable system, IMO.

For waste, simply filling the tanks with some pink anti-freeze will work in the winter assuming you use minimal water only as necessary, not camp in continuous below freezing temperatures. The grey and black tank valves are ahead of the macerator which stays dry.

Agree on pink stuff in the waste tanks. We usually pour extra in as we use it to keep the ratio up. I know that ARV puts the black tank underneath, but ours is in heated space so it is mostly OK. Our gray and fresh tanks are heated. I intend to wrap them in insulation, which should provide additional protection.

I am still mulling over the macerator. I don't think that in general it is safe to assume that it is "dry" after a dump. You would need some kind of upstream venting between the pump and the dump valves (which some people do) in order to be sure that it can clear itself. In any event, my goal is to support all-weather dumping, so I may end up heating the pump and valves.

One scenario in 2014 it took us 3 whole days to reach South Padre Island before we got out of freezing temperatures. We had to spend two nights in hotels because our Great West Van was not survivable in single digit temperatures. Now, it makes no difference with Alvar. We half filled our fresh water tank at ARV. Our first night was 5 degrees. Our second and third night were in the teens. We got down to -5 at home and hadn't winterized. We just plugged in and left the heater and hot water on for two days as insurance. The Espar heating system can be switched over to electric when plugged in.

[/quote]
Yes. Your setup sounds great. That is why I am picking your brain for details. Great West does not have 4-season operation as a goal, which we knew when we chose it. My plan has been to see if I can evolve it to the point where several days of very cold weather becomes possible without operational compromise. We'll see how far I can get, but I want all the good ideas I can get, so thanks for sharing.

[Davydd]

Our ARV macerator does not have a permanently attached hose and it also has a separate hose back flush connection which can be used to blow it out.

I haven't given it a lot of thought, but after you shut off the waste tanks going to the macerator you can still run the macerator dry if you felt it would be filled with water. But from what I can tell it is pretty much dry and clean for that matter. I've had it uncoupled from its bayonet mount to see for myself.

The macerator assembly.


Macerator uncoupled from bayonet mount. The macerator bayonet mounts and is held with a strap and pin connector with no tools necessary to remove it. I suppose one could just uncouple it and drain it to winterize as well. Since the grey water tank is larger than the black, inspection shows after three dumps in this case that the macerator was pretty clean. The back flush connection is also supposed to be used to clean it and the hose if desired.


Here we are at Kartchner Caverns SP in Arizona. We pulled up the exact same time as the trailer next to us. We dumped and were cleaned up and gone before the guy finished his gravity dump. Note we have a canvas fire hose that quick couples to the macerator.


Should also mention when you uncouple the macerator from the bayonet mount you can couple up a gravity dump slinky at that point. We carried a slinky as a backup on our first trip that we had but now I am not going to bother. I have better use for the space. If I needed one in an emergency I could buy one cheaply at a Walmart or almost any campground store.

[pattonsr]

David,

In the past ARV used the Max Burton 6200 as the induction portable. Did you choose the Frigidaire portable induction burner or is it the new standard for ARV?

Also is the quick couple canvas fire hose a standard ARV item?

[Davydd]

Originally Posted by pattonsr

David,

In the past ARV used the Max Burton 6200 as the induction portable. Did you choose the Frigidaire portable induction burner or is it the new standard for ARV?

Also is the quick couple canvas fire hose a standard ARV item?

Barry,

I'm not sure if Frigidaire is a standard or not. I went to the Frigidaire website and they described it as discontinued. Maybe they got a close out deal. So far it has worked great. As I mentioned, it is portable and replaceable. If built in it might be an item you couldn't duplicate. That is what happened with our built in coffee maker in our Great West Van. I wanted to replace the coffee maker and couldn't find anything that would fit in the space.

The quick couple canvas fire hose is a nerf bar setup standard. I really like it. I'm not so sure about the fiberglass skirts. The one I saw at ARV last week was different. It was a plastic hose stored differently ahead of the macerator outlet. I didn't check to see if it was attached.

[mikes47]

Avanti, I forgot to include that Imagine has an electric heating element attached under the fresh water tank. Imagine does not have the fire-hose gizmo, instead it has standard flexible hosing from the macerator. Imagine also has the "conventional" fiberglass running boards, not the nerf-bars that Alvar wears. Imagine was delivered with the Fridgidare Induction portable cook top. I didn't ask ARV whether the Fridgidare was the standard.

[Davydd]

Originally Posted by mikes47

I'll share a couple of things ARV did for Imagine. 1) Added a second heat exchanger behind the driver side rear tires to circulate air warmed by the hydronic system (primary heat exchanger remains under the kitchen counter), 2) added snaps to the max-air vent to firmly hold a thick insulating blanket in place to block down-drafts, 3) added a zip-in thick insulated blanket to block drafts from the rear doors ... use instead of the (summertime) zip-in insect screening for the rear doors, 4) the heated floor, 5) insulated reflective cab window inserts that attach with suction cups to front window and both side windows. The lined, heavy drapery-like fabric curtains do a remarkable job of keeping the cold from transferring to the inside via the side windows.

I've been cleaning Alvar out today and trying to figure out what we used and didn't use. Since we packed in January on a -5 degree day I didn't spend a lot of time contemplating and arranging stuff. I just threw stuff in Alvar until it was full. I didn't even think about it and stuck the insulative reflective cab curtains in the storage shelf at the back end of the van and promptly forgot I had them. It is a 3-piece set and they cover the windshield and the two side door windows. Maybe next winter.

[Davydd]

Advanced RV is looking for ways to trim weight. I didn't know my nerf bars was part of that effort but I appreciate the ability to carry more beer.

Actually I believe they do need to trim weight for the 4x4 Sprinter conversions.

Advanced RV Weight Loss Project

[youtube]

[Davydd]

We typically can stop and spend a night, make dinner with both the microwave/convection oven and induction cooktop, watch TV, brew four cups of Keurig coffee and not worry or think about our electrical usage because we completely recharge that usage in under an hour of driving. The second alternator charges at well over 200 amps until you reach about 90% charged. Then it starts to gradually slow down to about 100 amps until 95% charged and then steadily decreases to no charge when at 100%.

I finally, on this second touring leg, got the RVCair app on my iPhone to mirror the information from Silverleaf. So now I can monitor while driving. I was looking for a use for my old iPhone 4S and I may have found it. When I get home I will figure out a dash mount for it. I'll have to write about that separately as well as how our internal wifi network works within and with external wifi. We now use three apps to control things. RVCair, Drone and our electrical articulating bed app. Drone app gives you a lot of remote control but requires wifi on either an internal level, external level or both in how you use it to monitor and control locking, auto-starting and temperatures. Other than the bed, I didn't do much of any of this on our first trip leg out west and coast to coast.

The past four nights we let Alvar sit boondocked in my sisters driveway. With our past Bs we always hooked up to their 15amp circuit. We only drove it about 3 miles to a store on the third day. We didn't tax the batteries as much like I mentioned above since we spent most of the time in the house for entertainment, eating, coffee and bathroom facilities. Today we recharged the batteries that had gotten down to 37% back to 100% in about 2 hours or the time it took to drive from Indianapolis to Cincinnati. 37% meant there was still 222 usable ah left. We used probably a net of about 100ah per day. Those days were sunny so solar did contribute to recharging. Based on this information we could have gone six days if we practiced electrical conservation similar to our older Class B practices without driving or running the engine on high idle. As you know we have no propane or Onan generator. Quite frankly I seriously doubt we will ever park it for six days occupied. We couldn't go two days in a Quartzsite desert camp site without moving. With no electrical hookup it is just too dang easy and tempting to move about.

[booster]

If the days were sunny, the solar should have done at least 120AH per day, so you were probably using in the range 200+AH per day, I would guess.

[Davydd]

Originally Posted by booster

If the days were sunny, the solar should have done at least 120AH per day, so you were probably using in the range 200+AH per day, I would guess.

Quite possible. With the refrigerator on along with cell booster, wifi booster and network, parasitic, monitoring and Silverleaf screen I've observed and have accepted about 8-10 amps to be the average draw when doing nothing else. Turning off the inverter will cut about 3-4 amps. I just plan on 10 amps for estimating purposes. One thing I am confident about is I could do away entirely with electrical hookups on the road. At home you would have to keep it plugged to shore power or do a complete shutdown with the batteries. With a complete shutdown the batteries have enough reserve to get through the winter says ARV.

In Roadtreking: the Group on Facebook, Jim Hammill started a thread about Tesla. In that thread Campskunk and Wendland started opening up a little about their testing. It appears they are experiencing similar to what I am experiencing. They have a bit more battery and solar which means only they would have more air conditioning capability. That is an area I have not tested yet but am assuming if those non-experimental AGM ETreks being sold can get the claimed 5 hours or so I should be able to too. That is an area I will just not get around to I think with my planned avoidance syndrome.

[Davydd]

We took possession of Alvar on January 26, 2015 and we were on the road until June 1 with a couple of brief stops at home to get organized. We traveled coast to coast nearly 16,000 miles in weather that got as low as 5F and as high as 85F. We took that opportunity to test the limits of Alvar in regard to the lithium ion batteries with several simulations including a stint in the BLM land Quartzsite desert and enduring extreme cold weather boondock camping several times including three straight days and nights in below freezing temperatures. We came out of it all very satisfied. This topic is about the batteries. As I figure things out and gain knowledge and experience with Alvar I will touch upon other subjects.

Tesla recently announced a home based 10kwH Powerwall lithium ion battery pack and it unleashed discussion about lithium ion battery use in RVs here and elsewhere. It dawned on me Alvar already has a 10kwH battery bank of lithium ion batteries or in RV battery terminology 800ah. Roadtrek has nearly doubled that with two experimental CS Adventurous ETreks Mike Wendland and Campskunk are driving around the country. Advanced RV is pushing on to a 1200ah lithium ion battery pack for one customer I know of. The yachting industry has pioneered lithium ion. Tesla is offering nothing new other than off the shelf packs that look nice and store in a thin pack that can be hung up against and on walls. The size of them probably provide no practical placement in a Class B that I can see but maybe so in a Class A where space could be found. With the Class B market so minute I doubt Tesla would ever design specific systems for it.

Tesla made in America might be desirable as now most all lithium ion is imported from China. The lithium ion battery packs I have come in single cells usually of 3.2 volts that can be wired together in groups of four to make one nominal 12 volt battery. The individual cells also come in various amp hour ratings. One constant factor is the size is smaller for lithium ion over an equivalent lead-acid battery and the weight is about 40% of a lead-acid battery. The cells can be chosen and packaged together to make various configurations. Our batteries are put together and wired together in a fairly compact package that occupies the space under the floor where one normally puts an Onan generator. I should add that 800ah of lithium ion battery usable capacity between charges is much greater than AGMs such that it would take about 1200ah AGM equivalent (about twelve 12v car batteries.) That simply will not happen because of weight and size limitations in a Class B. The AGM Roadtrek ETreks have maxed out at about 800ah.

Here is the battery pack enclosed in an insulated fiberglass coated cover. Note it is close in size to an Onan generator.


Lithium ion, thanks to Boeing and Tesla, has a fire hazard reputation. The lithium ion we have known as LiFeP04 is supposedly the safest configuration. It would take a lot to set them on fire. First, the battery pack is encased in steel plate, bars and angles with solid steel under and on top of the assembly. It is bolted to the frame and floor.

This steel cage inside the fiberglass enclosure weighs almost as much as the batteries if the total package weighs 400 lbs. and the batteries weigh about 228 lbs.


After it is bolted and connected in place and insulated protective shell covers it an an aluminum skid plate with a solid angled face plate and bottom skid is placed over the assembly. The skid plate material is about 1/4” thick.



If this assembly got in an accident it would have to be extremely severe to damage the battery assembly in my opinion. I would also think such severity would probably cause greater fire risk with a propane equipped Class B. That’s just an opinion but I think valid as I have seen in my 10 year RV career two propane fire damaged RVs in person on the road. Propane represents a perceived fire hazard so much so it is banned in some tunnels and on some roads, and has to be turned off at service stations and on ferries. I don’t mind being propane free.

What does this all mean? For one with a large capacity battery pack you can transparently use your Class B exactly the same electrically 24/7 with the aid of a high capacity inverter/charger as you normally would with a 30 amp shore power hookup. You eliminate an Onan generator as well as the propane if you desire. You are free to travel 100% of the time never needing to have to hook up to shore power.

Air conditioning is the wild card. Even at that Roadtrek stated a goal to achieve 24/7 air conditioning off lithium ion batteries and solar. In theory they might be able to achieve it. Smart travel might be a better way by simply avoiding travel when and where air conditioning is needed and simply seeking a shore power hookup when unavoidable because 800ah of lithium ion batteries is proving more than adequate for everything else including a few hours of air conditioning when caught in a short term situation. Smart travel is easy for me proven again with our 16,000 miles over 4 winter/spring months, 26 states coast to coast mostly in the south without once turning on air conditioning. For the record we were on the road for about 100 days during that time and we plugged into shore power a total of 10 times either because it was simply there to do so, but not necessary, or to demonstrate our Smartplug connection. And being the willing early adopters we did have an electrical malfunction where the inverter did not recognize the batteries causing our coach to electrically shut down. That has since been fixed.

I chose 800ah with the what the heck attitude to leave nothing on the table when making my decision. You read about that earlier in this thread. With careful planning, solar and second under hood dedicated engine alternator you could probably get by with as little as 400ah of lithium ion with solar and stay 100% off the electrical grid at will. I’ve since concluded that from monitoring our use. We have never taxed the electrical capacity in a day despite having and using more electrical devices than 99% of the Class Bs in the market that the 400ah would provide. Of course we would have to be cognizant of our use and probably have to travel more frequently with 400ah. But, that is what we do in a B. Why not have it all? I am sure with the 800ah battery pack we can stay in one spot as long as we can stay with fresh water and waste tanks lasting us which is about a week. I have to be honest though. I have about a 3 day gotta move on limit. What that means is, though I have autogen to recharge our batteries at high idle akin to running an Onan generator in a campground, I doubt I would ever need it and didn’t on our trip.

I’m also not implying you can’t stay off shore power otherwise but am saying you can’t do so transparently as I mentioned using all electrical systems without careful planning ahead and close monitoring with calculated conservation practices. One of my greatest freedoms that I personally enjoy is making overnight decisions where to camp spontaneously without the question of whether I need an electrical hookup or not, without the electrical conservation and giving up systems (120vac plugs, microwave, electric coffee pot, etc.) gymnastics to accomplish it. Having made the Alaska drive once (kind of an ultimate test) and contemplating it again I know how great that will be toward travel decision freedom and longer stays in the many boondock situations.

I look at it this way. At home I never think about my electrical power source. It is just there. I’ve come to like the same while I travel and it has made a major difference in how we travel.

[wincrasher]

Nice writeup Davydd. What are your findings on battery temperatures - both in hot and cold and their effect on battery longevity? What kind of power consumption were you experiencing keeping them warm enough for charging?

[Davydd]

When lithium ion batteries go below freezing you cannot add a charge to them with ARV's safeguard systems. Trying to charge frozen batteries will damage them. You can still draw power from them until they obviously deplete. ARV monitors the temperatures and if they go down to 40F heating pads that are embedded in the battery bank will come on and keep the batteries above freezing so they will function at all times. Our first night outdoors was 5F and the batteries stayed above freezing. I think too, drawing power off the batteries will also keep them warm. Of course the heating pads will draw power from the batteries so that would hasten the draw down. But, since the autogen will come on or if you drive they will be recharged. The long term answer of course is two ways. Completely disconnect the batteries (via a simple toggle switch that is lit when batteries are connected). The batteries are supposed to hold their power for up to 6 months which will get you through a winter's worth of storage. The second is to simply plug into shore power and the heating pads can stay on indefinitely and the batteries will remain in 99% float charge and could be used anytime.

For hot, that is a function of location. The batteries are good up to 149 degrees. Arizona can get up to around 120 degrees. Asphalt pavement can get hotter and radiate heat. I know at the Indy 500 when it got up to about 95 degrees they were talking about asphalt pavement of 120F. I really don't anticipate ever encountering that for any length of time. Technomadia published their take on temperatures and felt it reduced the capacity after 3-1/2 years. They said they diminished to 75% capacity. Technomadia kept their batteries inside I think in unconditioned space mostly in the southwest. We all know how hot it can get inside. They also admitted they lived 6 months on black asphalt. In effect they did not do a lot to protect their batteries from heat as I assumed they didn't think they needed to. Also their batteries, though from the same supplier, are of a different generation as I understand it. Also, keep in mind, with their RV bus, they were going through AGM batteries in as little as a year's time I think with the conditions they were encountering. Anyway, in that 3.5 years they learned heat was also a concern and duly noted. I think it has only been about a year that people have also learned cold is a concern.

So, as I mentioned, I am a weather follower. Cold I have to work with and have a solution I am comfortable with. Heat has no safeguards I am aware of with ARV other than to avoid it. Being in a self-contained space the heat should stabilize to shade heat and not build up like inside a van. I'm in Minnesota most all summer. We rarely get above 90F (just twice last year and the record is 42 days). As I mentioned previously, we spent 4 months mostly in the south with nothing over 85F. The batteries seem to hover at about 7-10 degrees above ambient temperature when being charged and in use. I doubt I will encounter the 109F temperatures Technomadia said would reduce capacity by a quarter at least for any significant length of time.

I am banking on lithium ion batteries living up to their claims of at least 2,000 cycles. That alone would make them last 5.5 years with daily cycling. That's well beyond my anticipation considering I am not cycling daily. The claimed 5,000 cycles in ideal conditions is over 13 years with daily cycling. Even with diminished capacity like Technomadia experienced I would end up with a 600ah battery bank which as I mentioned earlier is still more than I need. I just don't see that happening.

I feel good about lithium ion. I know there are many more ways to destroy lead acid batteries in a short time. I know. I did so. For one, I am not aware of any safeguards to keep lead acid batteries from accidentally depleting more than 50% and it is way to easy to do so. Cold is less a problem for AGM. Overcharging is a concern for all types of batteries. So far it looks as if ARV has the sophisticated controls not to overcharge. I don't fully understand. It floats at 99% charge and brakes down slowly toward that goal as I earlier mentioned. What I don't know if that 99% is governed at an actual lower number similar to like 0% is actually 20% on the lower end. I never thought to ask considering the latest information that lithium ion last longer floating in a charge rate of 85-95% instead of fully charged. The BMS module comes from Elite Power Solutions.

[Jostalli]

You should probably check because LiFePO4 batteries do NOT require float and should not be kept full. That's one big difference between LiFePO4 and the other battery types.

[Davydd]

I think float in this terminology means replacement of amps consumed. With so many things on standby all the time I consume about 6-14 amps per hour just sitting with nothing on. The Silverleaf screen itself is an always on 7" monitor though it can be dimmed and also programmed to a minimum at night (just another clock showing.) I can turn a lot of things off if I choose but as I mentioned earlier I have enough battery capacity to endure the convenience of electrical power ready for everything just like at home.

[markopolo]

I like the big battery bank implementation. The less idling needed the better IMO. When the battery bank is large enough like Davydd's you don't need to idle.

[Davydd]

With less battery, rather than idling, you might just get into the habit of jumping into your B to drive some place every chance you can get just to get a newspaper or a pint of milk, or a six pack of beer. Never buy in bulk. The farther from town the better.

The capabilities of our Bs do drive our camping and touring habits. I almost abhor the expense of a full hookup private campground now. I use to see them as a periodic luxury stop. I have gone from using the Allstays Camp & RV smartphone app to using only the Ultimate US Public Campground Project app to initially search out our overnight stays.