22-Coachmen-Nova-20C-LI3

[Time2PlayNow]

Hi Folks,
anyone w/ same unit (2022-Coachmen-Nova-20C-LI3) want to connect? I have a few newbie questions, some related to Lithium (LI3) system.

1) Does most stuff in coach (AC, Fridge) need the invertor to work them?
2) Is fridge powered by Propane as a backup? Powered by LI3?
3) Any tips, do's, don'ts - for care, usage, maintenance, etc. - of LI3 system?

Thanks,
Jim

[@Michael]

Best guess based on how other Coachmen's B's are configured:

I'd expect the fridge to be a compressor model running from either 12V or 120V & capable of switching automatically between them. No inverter necessary. No propane backup.

Microwave & induction cooktop should be wired to run from the inverter. Heat/hot water from the Truma will be capable of both propane and 120V electric, likely not on the inverter. You should be able to manually switch the Truma to either propane, electric or both. Truma controls will run from the 12V side.

[Time2PlayNow]

Thx Michael.
How does fridge get power while driving the unit? Thought inverter needed for that.
And where is control panel to set fridge auto detect power option, such as switching power source as needed?
My Nova is winterized. Are any vAlves open and needing to be closed for de-winterize?

[@Michael]

I'm assuming you have a Novakool fridge. If so, they have their manuals online if you don't have a paper one. I suspect that the fridge will either be 12v only, or it will be 12v/120v - and if so, will switch between 12v and 120v automatically. Either way you don't have to do anything manually.

Your lithium battery will keep the fridge running any time the lithium battery has power, whether the engine is running or not. Either running the engine or plugging in to shore power will recharge the battery.

As far as de-winterization, I'm not sure about your specific model. There may (or may not) be a couple of shutoff valves that bypass the Truma water heater. They need to be set so the Trump gets filled. There will be a valve that drains the Truma - that valve would need to be closed if it's not already. There may be two 'low point drains' that need to be closed, if not already. There should be a valve that switches water pump suction side to draw from the freshwater tank.

I'm not sure where the Truma is located on your model. Odds are that it will be close to where the exhaust is located.

You should be able to connect up a hose to the city water inlet and turn on the faucets to flush the water lines. You'll also have an inlet for filling the freshwater tank, and perhaps one for flushing the black tank.

Coachmen's online owners manuals are useless.

[Time2PlayNow]

Hey Michael. “Truma Combi Eco Plus” is the water heater and furnace combo. In coachmen class-B, where are the valves?

[@Michael]

I'm not familiar with the location of the Truma, valves, plumbing, etc on the RAM-based Nova's. (I have a Transit based Coachmen Crossfit/Beyond). But from what I can see in this video, the Truma is likely on the drivers side of the van, near or under the couch. Valves might be accessible from the rear or perhaps by removing the cover from the driver's side ottoman.

https://youtu.be/qgpEbuLr-Dc

[Rlum]

Originally Posted by Time2PlayNow

Hi Folks,
anyone w/ same unit (2022-Coachmen-Nova-20C-LI3) want to connect? I have a few newbie questions, some related to Lithium (LI3) system.

1) Does most stuff in coach (AC, Fridge) need the invertor to work them?
2) Is fridge powered by Propane as a backup? Powered by LI3?
3) Any tips, do's, don'ts - for care, usage, maintenance, etc. - of LI3 system?

Thanks,
Jim

Facebook has a coachmen forum. Lots of these questions have been posted and answered. You can join very easily and then search the entire forum site for answers.

[Time2PlayNow]

Hi Michael. You were correct. Valves are at rear and accessible from rear door, which is where Truma heater is. These must all be water heater based valves.
Also winterization valves are located under a jump seat at rear of coach including the hose they sucks from antifreeze source.
Both locations have multiple valves which is confusing.
I may figure them out based on water flow trial and error - respecting the isolation of the water Heater to protect it from antifreeze.
Do RV shops that winterize typically put drain plug back into water heater after draining it?
Do they also tend to reset the water heater relief valve?
Trying to get a feel for what I need to look for to de-winterize - as I bought in Colorado and will be driving unit to Florida.
Does this forum allow me to send a video or pics? Can you share your email Info?

[@Michael]

You can post pics in this forum.

In theory there will be two 'low point drains', each with an on-off valve and a bit of PEX poking out the bottom of the van. Those are for draining the freshwater plumbing - cold water and hot water.

There should be one valve at the bottom of the fresh water tank. This is to drain the fresh tank.

The Truma should have brass valve with a flip-up lever plumbed to the bottom of the Truma tank. This valve serves as both the pressure relief valve and the drain valve for the Truma tank. Flip the lever up to drain, then back down after the tank is drained. As far as I know, the Truma doesn't have a drain plug.

In a typical setup, there will be three valves associated with the hot water tank. One to shut off the water going into the tank at the bottom (might be blue PEX), one to shut off the water leaving the tank at the top (likely red PEX), and one in a pipe that cross-connects the hot and cold side of the tank.

To bypass the Truma, the top and bottom valves are closed, the cross-connect vale is opened.

[Time2PlayNow]

Hi Michael. 3 photos attached.
First off - I found under the Truma the bypass valves which should be the 3rd pic. It clearly shows the cold input valve, the hot output valve and the valve at top which must be the bypass valve. Also I see the main flush valve w/ yellow flap handle relief type valve. I’m clear on this part.
Other pic ( I think is the 1st pic) clearly shows blue and red pipe valves and both closed. And 2nd pic shows another valve that is online with the water-pump and anti-freeze suction hose - so this must be to bypass water tank for introducing anti-freeze. In this pic, that valve is left of the yellow wire.
Does this sound correct - that I found all valves for de-winterize? Do the pics show what is also referred to as “low point” valves?

[@Michael]

Originally Posted by Time2PlayNow

Hi Michael. 3 photos attached.
First off - I found under the Truma the bypass valves which should be the 3rd pic. It clearly shows the cold input valve, the hot output valve and the valve at top which must be the bypass valve. Also I see the main flush valve w/ yellow flap handle relief type valve. I’m clear on this part.

Looks correct.

Originally Posted by Time2PlayNow

Other pic ( I think is the 1st pic) clearly shows blue and red pipe valves and both closed.

Those might be the low point drains. Not sure.

Originally Posted by Time2PlayNow

And 2nd pic shows another valve that is online with the water-pump and anti-freeze suction hose - so this must be to bypass water tank for introducing anti-freeze. In this pic, that valve is left of the yellow wire.

Looks correct.

Originally Posted by Time2PlayNow

Does this sound correct - that I found all valves for de-winterize? Do the pics show what is also referred to as “low point” valves?

I suspect that the first pic shows the low point drain valves. If you open them and water drains out under the van, you'll know.

[Time2PlayNow]

Hey Michael.
My inverter is enabling automatically. When i shutdown the RV (I disable inverter and kill battery via switch) and when I return in a day or two, and power up via battery kill switch - inverter is enabled.
Could this be for the fridge? What else might auto enable the inverter?
ALSO - what’s best way to know when fresh tank is full - while filling it?

[@Michael]

Of this I have no idea. Mine doesn't have an inverter.

[Rlum]

Originally Posted by Time2PlayNow

Hey Michael.
My inverter is enabling automatically. When i shutdown the RV (I disable inverter and kill battery via switch) and when I return in a day or two, and power up via battery kill switch - inverter is enabled.
Could this be for the fridge? What else might auto enable the inverter?
ALSO - what’s best way to know when fresh tank is full - while filling it?

Your inverter might have a firm ware setting defaulting to on position whenever power is senses? What inverter do you have?

Most water fill tanks have an air vent next to the fill port. When tank is filled, the air vent will have water coming out.