2013 RS Adventurous indicator lights

[Dcarm1]

I have a 2013 RS Adventurous on a Mercedes Sprinter 3500 Chasis. The ESP, ABS and ASR/BAS indicator lights have come on. Anyone know what one can do on a Sunday? Vehicle drives fine and other than indicator lights seems fine. Operator’s manual says it could be low battery but it seems to be charging fine. (Starts fine and no indication that it is not charging )

[avanti]

Originally Posted by Dcarm1

I have a 2013 RS Adventurous on a Mercedes Sprinter 3500 Chasis. The ESP, ABS and ASR/BAS indicator lights have come on. Anyone know what one can do on a Sunday? Vehicle drives fine and other than indicator lights seems fine. Operator’s manual says it could be low battery but it seems to be charging fine. (Starts fine and no indication that it is not charging )

Very likely a rear wheel speed sensor. Extremely common failure mode. You need a dealer. Most seem to stock the sensors (they get this a lot). I have had three such failures. Sometimes you can get into a limp-mode, but not always. A free scan at an auto parts store may diagnose the problem, but what good would it do you?

This is one of the recurring faults that has made it impossible for me to trust our Sprinter. Should be a minor issue, but it isn't.

[Dcarm1]

My problem turned out to be a R/R speed sensor. The Sprinter Store in Portland was busy for the next two weeks but they directed me to their shop in Tualatin. The service rep, Foster, suggested that I at least bring it in and they could get their code reader to diagnose the problem although they couldn’t get to repairing it for a few days. Long story / short I took it in and they diagnosed it and ordered the part and I went back the next day and they fixed things. Went on with our camping trip and 500 miles later there are no further issues. On the whole I am happy that they could move things around and accommodate me.

[avanti]

Thanks for closing the loop. Glad your trip wasn't TOO disrupted.

I really hate to say it, but be prepared for the other rear sensor to go real soon now. They VERY often fail within 1,000 miles or less of each other. Nobody seems to know why, but the pattern is clear.

[GeorgeRa]

Originally Posted by avanti

Very likely a rear wheel speed sensor. Extremely common failure mode. You need a dealer. Most seem to stock the sensors (they get this a lot). I have had three such failures. Sometimes you can get into a limp-mode, but not always. A free scan at an auto parts store may diagnose the problem, but what good would it do you?

This is one of the recurring faults that has made it impossible for me to trust our Sprinter. Should be a minor issue, but it isn't.

Do you know what is the failure mechanism, what I read it is a simple coil generating voltage by rotating magnet on the rotor. What is there to fail, contacts?

[avanti]

Originally Posted by GeorgeRa

Do you know what is the failure mechanism, what I read it is a simple coil generating voltage by rotating magnet on the rotor. What is there to fail, contacts?

As I understand it, Mercedes speed sensors use a tone ring on each wheel and (if I know German engineers) some kind of vastly complex active sensor that detects the teeth of the ring as they go by.

I really don't know what the failure mode (or modes) are. I have heard various theories concerning dirt in the tone ring, actual sensor failure, connectors, etc. Who knows? I do know that sometimes you just lose ABS and stability control, and other times you end up in limp mode (I have experienced both personally). This suggests that there is more than one failure mode. That is the only data I have, though.

[GeorgeRa]

Originally Posted by avanti

As I understand it, Mercedes speed sensors use a tone ring on each wheel and (if I know German engineers) some kind of vastly complex active sensor that detects the teeth of the ring as they go by.

I really don't know what the failure mode (or modes) are. I have heard various theories concerning dirt in the tone ring, actual sensor failure, connectors, etc. Who knows? I do know that sometimes you just lose ABS and stability control, and other times you end up in limp mode (I have experienced both personally). This suggests that there is more than one failure mode. That is the only data I have, though.

Thank you, it seems as insufficient engineering or manufacturing. DEF temperature sensor should not fail either, likely just a simple thermistor.

[Dcarm1]

Well, i must say that I learned a lot about these sensors while waiting in the shop for the work to be done as I looked online about them. One of the things is that there is no need to clear the codes after replacing because they will clear once the vehicle is driven. So, I am a bit curious because this is the way events transpired: I waited in shop the service mgr came and said that the work was just about done and then the mech would test drive. Then he came back and said that the mech came back and drove into the work bay. He said that he would see what was up. He came back about 15 mins later and said that on the test drive the codes did not clear so the mech cleaned the holes because there was some rust and now the codes were clear. So in the back of my mind I am wondering if it was the rust all along and that maybe just a cleaning was all that was needed. If I get another failure that will be my first move.

[avanti]

Originally Posted by Dcarm1

Well, i must say that I learned a lot about these sensors while waiting in the shop for the work to be done as I looked online about them. One of the things is that there is no need to clear the codes after replacing because they will clear once the vehicle is driven. So, I am a bit curious because this is the way events transpired: I waited in shop the service mgr came and said that the work was just about done and then the mech would test drive. Then he came back and said that the mech came back and drove into the work bay. He said that he would see what was up. He came back about 15 mins later and said that on the test drive the codes did not clear so the mech cleaned the holes because there was some rust and now the codes were clear. So in the back of my mind I am wondering if it was the rust all along and that maybe just a cleaning was all that was needed. If I get another failure that will be my first move.

Cleaning may be worth a try. But, there is at least one report over at Sprinter Source where a cleaning appeared to fix the problem, but that it came back in a few hundred miles, requiring a sensor swap anyway.

[karon]

Originally Posted by Dcarm1

I have a 2013 RS Adventurous on a Mercedes Sprinter 3500 Chasis. The ESP, ABS and ASR/BAS indicator lights have come on. Anyone know what one can do on a Sunday? Vehicle drives fine and other than indicator lights seems fine. Operator’s manual says it could be low battery but it seems to be charging fine. (Starts fine and no indication that it is not charging )

I have a 2006 MB Sprinter with the same problem, I get it serviced at a Dodge dealer that is qualified to work on MB Sprinters, they told me not to be concerned, the lites will go out while you are driving or when you start it up the next time, I have had no problems related to the indicator lites.

[avanti]

Originally Posted by karon

I have a 2006 MB Sprinter with the same problem, I get it serviced at a Dodge dealer that is qualified to work on MB Sprinters, they told me not to be concerned, the lites will go out while you are driving or when you start it up the next time, I have had no problems related to the indicator lites.

Have your lights actually gone out?
As I said, one of my three such failures produced a limp mode, which was not fun. This was MY2014, though.

I recently learned that you can buy these sensors at Rock Auto for less than $50. I am considering carrying a spare. It appears that any competent mechanic could swap one out. May have to splice a cable if the spare isn't for the right wheel, though.

[karon]

Originally Posted by karon

I have a 2006 MB Sprinter with the same problem, I get it serviced at a Dodge dealer that is qualified to work on MB Sprinters, they told me not to be concerned, the lites will go out while you are driving or when you start it up the next time, I have had no problems related to the indicator lites.

I had the limp mode one time, it was not related to the dash warning lites, it was a resonator air intake problem, the resonator is sheet metal pressed together, the two pieces came apart, I had trouble passing and going up hills. The dealer replaced the unit. I purchased a stainless welded unit when I was in Oregon it works just fine. If you start the camper up in the morning are the lites still on?

[Abn1SG]

Hopefully you read about this in a previous post where I had the same issue and someone told me it was covered under the emission warranty and I mentioned it to the service tech when I had mine replaced and he first told me it wasn't and after i told him it was he looked it up and confirmed that it was and i was not charged.

If you happened to have paid for it, i advise you look in your emission warranty booklet and see if your unit is still covered under it.

[jra3733]

The sensor is covered under your 100 thound mile warranty. Jrk

[jra3733]

The sensor is covered under your 200 thousand mile warranty. jr

[MarCorpsMustang]

I've had the same problem in my 2014 CS Adventurous. As others have suggested, this is a common problem and most often associated with a rear-wheel speed sensor. I used a diagnostic tool to determine it was the left rear in my case. The MB dealership said speed sensors should be replaced in pairs, so that's what we did. Even if it was just rust in your case, it was prudent to replace the sensors while the technician had the vehicle.

[avanti]

Originally Posted by MarCorpsMustang

The MB dealership said speed sensors should be replaced in pairs, so that's what we did. Even if it was just rust in your case, it was prudent to replace the sensors while the technician had the vehicle.

Yes, lots of dealerships realize that these sensors tend to fail in pairs for some reason. You got good advice. Unfortunately, MB itself does not agree and will not generally cover the non-failed unit under warranty.