2010 RoadTreks

[bwolfsohn]

i've been reading about manufacturer problems starting with the economic downturn in 2008. I'm looking at a 2010 Roadtrek 210 popular. Are there any construction issues specific to that year/model i should be paying special attention to when considering this RT and when highlighting areas the inspector should pay close attention to ?

The unit is not local to me, so i had planned on using lemon squad, but their reviews are very mixed. Has anyone used any other national inspection agency. The RV is in the nashville area.

[Hondo]

I have not heard of any issues with the 210s.


One area to have a mechanic take a dedicated look at are the steering and suspension components.


It is a heavy unit and the weight takes it's toll on those items.

[bwolfsohn]

Originally Posted by bwolfsohn

The unit is not local to me, so i had planned on using lemon squad, but their reviews are very mixed. Has anyone used any other national inspection agency. The RV is in the nashville area.

I've also come across NRVIA. I'm wondering if anyone has used them ?

[BBQ]

Originally Posted by bwolfsohn

i've been reading about manufacturer problems starting with the economic downturn in 2008. I'm looking at a 2010 Roadtrek 210 popular. Are there any construction issues specific to that year/model i should be paying special attention to when considering this RT and when highlighting areas the inspector should pay close attention to ?

The unit is not local to me, so i had planned on using lemon squad, but their reviews are very mixed. Has anyone used any other national inspection agency. The RV is in the nashville area.

2010? Check the data plate for the chassis manufacturing date. Make sure it is not dated 2008. When the market turned south, some chassis languished in the backlot for a couple of years before they were upfitted.

[bwolfsohn]

Originally Posted by BBQ

2010? Check the data plate for the chassis manufacturing date. Make sure it is not dated 2008. When the market turned south, some chassis languished in the backlot for a couple of years before they were upfitted.

wow... great idea... thanks...

Is the VIN reliable for checking the chassis manufacturing date ?

[BBQ]

Originally Posted by bwolfsohn

wow... great idea... thanks...

Is the VIN reliable for checking the chassis manufacturing date ?

Yes... the VIN is good too.

[booster]

Yes good idea to see what the chassis year is as there are quite a few of the 2009 chassis Roadtrek 2010 model.



IIRC, the 2010 chassis should have the 6 speed transmission, which is a big deal IMO over the 4 speed.


I know of at least two of the 2009 model Chevies that had torque converter clutch issues, so that might be an issue along with being a 4 speed.

[bwolfsohn]

Originally Posted by booster

Yes good idea to see what the chassis year is as there are quite a few of the 2009 chassis Roadtrek 2010 model.
IIRC, the 2010 chassis should have the 6 speed transmission, which is a big deal IMO over the 4 speed.
I know of at least two of the 2009 model Chevies that had torque converter clutch issues, so that might be an issue along with being a 4 speed.

looks like it's a 4 speed...

on one hand, that's not as good as the 6 speed, but all the older ones are also 4 speed, so i'd have to go newer/more$$ for a 6 speed...

[bwolfsohn]

Originally Posted by booster

IIRC, the 2010 chassis should have the 6 speed transmission, which is a big deal IMO over the 4 speed.

in looking at my choices now, (i might pass on them all for now)..
it's between a 2010 with about 30,000 miles that it priced @ 63,000 or best offer, or a 2007 with 41,000 miles priced @ just under 50k at a dealer.. both have 4 speeds...

I haven't done any detailed investigating, although i have seen the 2007, and the "leather" on the seats is wearing through in small spots...

i'll probably keep looking for now... i can wait until the end of summer, but i've led a spoiled life and hate WAITING!!

[bladegrl3]

I have a 2010 190V Roadtrek on a 2009 based Chevy chassis. Bought it used from one owner in 2013 - had 19K miles on it. I've had the following issues:

1) Rear Main Seal had to be replaced at 35K miles in 2015

2) Transmission rebuild at 55K miles in 2017

3) 2 ignition coils replaced at 68K miles 2018


It's been a journey...still love my RT, but sometimes I find myself watching the dashboard lights, wondering when that dreaded check engine light will come on. Luckily, I have a great mechanic, but he gets baffled about why items 1 & 2 happened at the mileage they did.

[Robert1776]

I bought a 2011 190 new, ordered from the factory. During this time Roadtrek was having financial problems and there were cutbacks at the factory. When we took delivery of our Roadtrek the lack of quality control in the manufacturer due, we can only assume, to these cutbacks was evident. This has nothing to do with the Chevy 3500 van but with the conversion. For the next two years we spent a great deal of time at the Roadtrek dealer's service department - over 150 miles one way - to get things corrected. What is left of that now are cosmetic issues that cannot be corrected.



By now any Roadtrek from this period should have been put right. The original or other owners would have done everything needed to get what was not done correctly at the start fixed.


One issue with Chevy Roadtreks before 2010 has been the vehicle battery draining very quickly which leads to finding a dead battery with no apparent reason. Many install a battery shutoff on the vehicle battery terminal to prevent this. Another issue is because of the repositioning of the gas tank fill from the middle of the stock van to the side rear of the van, the gas backs up when filling and shuts the gas pump off. At one point Roadtrek offered a fix for this - but some owners who did not get this changed have to fill the van with gas with the front end of the van lower than the rear. Both the gas fill issue and the battery issue were resolved by the 2010 Chevy RTs. My 2011 does not have either of these problems.

My vehicle has been fine. The 6 speed transmission is nice - I get 19+ mpg on flat, limited access roads driving at the speed limit. Mixed driving is 16-17 mpg. I have the larger 6.0 L engine.

As with any pre-owned RV, it is highly recommended that you have the vehicle fully inspected by a mechanic and all of the RV inspected by an RV technician - both of your choosing. Do not rely on a dealer you are buying from to do this or the current owner if a private sale to do this. You will pay for it yourself but you will know what you are buying. Not doing this can cost a great deal in repairs after you have made the purchase. Plus test drive it yourself and never buy sight unseen.

[Dieps]

Bought my 2008 190P in 2010 with 20K miles. It’s a little over 100K now with no engine nor trans problems. Just last week, I had the transmission flushed and fresh oil and filter installed. The tech said everything looked fine. Outside of regular maintenance, the only issue was an EVAP System Vent Valve go bad a few months ago. The engine light came on while traveling in Florida and was a quick $250 fix by the first Chevy dealer we called. I’m happy with my RT and wouldn’t mind having a six speed tranny but my local Chevy dealer told me just a couple weeks ago he doesn’t have a big preference between them.

[rowiebowie]

Originally Posted by bladegrl3

I have a 2010 190V Roadtrek on a 2009 based Chevy chassis. Bought it used from one owner in 2013 - had 19K miles on it. I've had the following issues:

1) Rear Main Seal had to be replaced at 35K miles in 2015

2) Transmission rebuild at 55K miles in 2017

3) 2 ignition coils replaced at 68K miles 2018


It's been a journey...still love my RT, but sometimes I find myself watching the dashboard lights, wondering when that dreaded check engine light will come on. Luckily, I have a great mechanic, but he gets baffled about why items 1 & 2 happened at the mileage they did.

Now that you've taken care of those issues (costly and irritating as hey were), you'll probably be fine.

If I'm correct, your Versatile had a smaller v-8 (4.8L) and perhaps a different transmission that the 6-speed used in the larger 6.0L models like the 190 Popular and 210.

[booster]

Originally Posted by bladegrl3

I have a 2010 190V Roadtrek on a 2009 based Chevy chassis. Bought it used from one owner in 2013 - had 19K miles on it. I've had the following issues:

1) Rear Main Seal had to be replaced at 35K miles in 2015

2) Transmission rebuild at 55K miles in 2017

3) 2 ignition coils replaced at 68K miles 2018


It's been a journey...still love my RT, but sometimes I find myself watching the dashboard lights, wondering when that dreaded check engine light will come on. Luckily, I have a great mechanic, but he gets baffled about why items 1 & 2 happened at the mileage they did.

Yours would be the third 2010 Roadtrek on a 2009 chassis that I have heard of that had an early transmission failure. The other two started as torque converter clutch failures and went from there.


A rear main seal failing that early on a modern V8 would have to be very rare, I think, as I have not heard of one that went that quickly in decades unless they were assembled wrong or got ruined by and out of balance converter or clutch, so may have been related to the trans failure that came later.


Coils do fail on many engines, although AFAIK the Chevies haven't been particularly prone to it.



Hopefully, it will be settled down for you from here on.

[Bjones7788]

The following is experience with our 2004 RT 190 Pop. We tow an over-wide 7,000 pound enclosed trailer that creates a lot of wind resistance due to wide flat frontal area. Our towing is literally coast to coast and border to border every year including over the Rockies and Appalachians in summer heat both ways plus other trips in between. Total mileage is now 225,000 Miles on the original engine, 4 speed transmission.
I use semi synthetic engine oil which has better ash-less dispersant qualities than full synthetic oil but still has enhanced lubricity due to the synthetic component.
I added after market engine and transmission cooling, and am strict about tire pressure, oil, lubes, transmission fluid and run a scan gauge to monitor transmission temps. At oil change oil level is still high, oil is clean. Tranmission fluid has been completely changed probably twice, not partially changed by a dip stick tube suction and refill method commonly used by quick change oil facilities.
Front bearing/hubs and front ceramic brakes were what might called modest duty OEM so they were swapped out for extreme or severe duty components. Just replaced frig and roof AC this past season.
I think the four speed has a good reputation. I know the 6.0L Chevy gas engine does.
BJ 2004 and 2013 RT 190 Pops

[rscrogg]

Originally Posted by bwolfsohn

i've been reading about manufacturer problems starting with the economic downturn in 2008. I'm looking at a 2010 Roadtrek 210 popular. Are there any construction issues specific to that year/model i should be paying special attention to when considering this RT and when highlighting areas the inspector should pay close attention to ?

The unit is not local to me, so i had planned on using lemon squad, but their reviews are very mixed. Has anyone used any other national inspection agency. The RV is in the nashville area.

I just bought a 2010 Roadtrek 210 Popular. Haven't had time to take it out yet, but it pulled my dinghy (2018 Kia Soul) fine for 50+ miles from where I had the base plate installed. I wonder if anyone with a Roadtrek has had AC problems? Mine runs but doesn't cool very well. Does anyone know if these units can be recharged like car AC units? Ihad a Great West Vans (Sprinter-based) before and had to replace the entire rooftop unit. The Roadtrek unit (DuoTherm, I believe0 ie built in and apparently has a heat pump as well.
Tahnsk

[rowiebowie]

Originally Posted by rscrogg

I just bought a 2010 Roadtrek 210 Popular. I wonder if anyone with a Roadtrek has had AC problems? Mine runs but doesn't cool very well. Does anyone know if these units can be recharged like car AC units?
Tahnsk

Or, it could just be the heat this time of year. Sometimes it requires the coach to be cooled over night in order to hold a comfortable temperature during the heat of the day. Most A/C's have a difficult time cooling down if turned on once the coach is hot.

Check the filter, it may be dirty and restricting air flow. Also, use a thermometer to gauge the temperature of air blowing out. It should be a min of around 20 degrees cooler that air temp at the intake.

[peteco]

Originally Posted by rowiebowie

Or, it could just be the heat this time of year. Sometimes it requires the coach to be cooled over night in order to hold a comfortable temperature during the heat of the day. Most A/C's have a difficult time cooling down if turned on once the coach is hot.

Check the filter, it may be dirty and restricting air flow. Also, use a thermometer to gauge the temperature of air blowing out. It should be a min of around 20 degrees cooler that air temp at the intake.

Two common problems with the CoolCat heatpumps are the reversing valve solenoid and the thermostat. Here is a link on the reversing valve:

AC Repair - Reversing Valve Solenoid Failure - Roadtreker