2005 Roadtrek 210 generator replacement

[ph007]

Has anyone replaced the Onan KV with the new Onan QG2800i?

[hbn7hj]

A few have but they don’t talk much. You will need to buy a $300 adapter from Onan. The rest of it you can do yourself.

[booster]

Here is a link to a discussion about it that includes a brief description of the not large amount of changes it takes to swap to the quiet versions.


https://www.classbforum.com/forums/f...rek-14120.html

[Floorman]

Originally Posted by ph007

Has anyone replaced the Onan KV with the new Onan QG2800i?

Changed my old KV out in October 2023 with the 2.8 HGLAA fuel injected Onan . Purchased everything Onan needed from Shop Cummins as the online dealers were out of stock on the Gen and the add ons. Have an 02C190P Roadtrek. This DIY project came after the decision to remove the old KV which I could not keep running reliably and the fact the PO had spent $2400 on a repair including a new OEM carb a year before my purchase. I was not going to sink $$$ into an old out of date, difficult to find parts noisy Gen. The new 2.8i needs a 5 wire remote starter harness to have a fully functional LED diagnostic and primer switch capability. Job one was to run a new 30' harness. Could tell you that I followed the old wire route under the RT to the pass side door frame channel but had to run it through the cabinetry under the bed and behind the toilet cabinet back panel and up to the original location to connect to a new analog hr. remote switch. The retro brackets are a 1/8" 1x1x1 z bar shaped steel channel with predrilled holes and welded on nuts. These were attached to the Gen before lifting it up (with a garage jack) to match the bolts to the holes in the existing undermount KV bracket (which was removed treated for rust and repainted). The 6" diy wood ramps worked well to remove and replace the Gens. The battery input was easy, ordered 6' #2 cables with 3/8" ends from Amazon. The connections on the old KV are on the driver side but on the new KV are on the passenger side including the exterior easy to replace fuel pump. The output 120ac has a 3wire prewired harness that will need a new watertight conduit mine and a new 9 metal 90 connector going through the floor to the auto transfer switch in the cabinet under the driver side bed. The fuel line should be replaced all the way to the gas tank but I did not get that done. The PO Gen repair had a 1/4" barbed fitting in the fuel line which is tie strapped to the gas filler pipe visible in the driver side top of the rear wheel well. I cut back the old hose and gently reused the barbed fitting into the old fuel and a new section going the Gen. The exhaust connection on the new 2.8i is bottom or side front driver side of the new Gen. It takes the 35" straight pipe exhaust kit from Cummins and exits in the same location of the old exhaust pipe. Those are the highlights of the project except one more thing. I had a Detroit TracLok a gear limited slip differential installed while the old KV was removed . Took the RT 250 miles to Hoopers Rear Ends in the San Fernando Valley and they installed the Detroit Traclok with a new set of bearings and seal including the yoke with the installation. Along with an earlier job of replacing the universals in the driveshaft I had a very smooth ride back home to Bishop. Good luck with your project

[booster]

Originally Posted by Floorman

Changed my old KV out in October 2023 with the 2.8 HGLAA fuel injected Onan . Purchased everything Onan needed from Shop Cummins as the online dealers were out of stock on the Gen and the add ons. Have an 02C190P Roadtrek. This DIY project came after the decision to remove the old KV which I could not keep running reliably and the fact the PO had spent $2400 on a repair including a new OEM carb a year before my purchase. I was not going to sink $$$ into an old out of date, difficult to find parts noisy Gen. The new 2.8i needs a 5 wire remote starter harness to have a fully functional LED diagnostic and primer switch capability. Job one was to run a new 30' harness. Could tell you that I followed the old wire route under the RT to the pass side door frame channel but had to run it through the cabinetry under the bed and behind the toilet cabinet back panel and up to the original location to connect to a new analog hr. remote switch. The retro brackets are a 1/8" 1x1x1 z bar shaped steel channel with predrilled holes and welded on nuts. These were attached to the Gen before lifting it up (with a garage jack) to match the bolts to the holes in the existing undermount KV bracket (which was removed treated for rust and repainted). The 6" diy wood ramps worked well to remove and replace the Gens. The battery input was easy, ordered 6' #2 cables with 3/8" ends from Amazon. The connections on the old KV are on the driver side but on the new KV are on the passenger side including the exterior easy to replace fuel pump. The output 120ac has a 3wire prewired harness that will need a new watertight conduit mine and a new 9 metal 90 connector going through the floor to the auto transfer switch in the cabinet under the driver side bed. The fuel line should be replaced all the way to the gas tank but I did not get that done. The PO Gen repair had a 1/4" barbed fitting in the fuel line which is tie strapped to the gas filler pipe visible in the driver side top of the rear wheel well. I cut back the old hose and gently reused the barbed fitting into the old fuel and a new section going the Gen. The exhaust connection on the new 2.8i is bottom or side front driver side of the new Gen. It takes the 35" straight pipe exhaust kit from Cummins and exits in the same location of the old exhaust pipe. Those are the highlights of the project except one more thing. I had a Detroit TracLok a gear limited slip differential installed while the old KV was removed . Took the RT 250 miles to Hoopers Rear Ends in the San Fernando Valley and they installed the Detroit Traclok with a new set of bearings and seal including the yoke with the installation. Along with an earlier job of replacing the universals in the driveshaft I had a very smooth ride back home to Bishop. Good luck with your project

ii


Interesting on the rear differential swap, but I have never heard of a Detroit Traclok and they don't show it on their website. Truetrac mabe?
Your 02 Chevy would be last generation Express van and I think all of them came with a GM "corporate" 10.5" full floating axle which is a very good rear axle. You can also find better limited slip and lockers for them compared to the later Dana axles.

[Floorman]

Originally Posted by booster

ii


Interesting on the rear differential swap, but I have never heard of a Detroit Traclok and they don't show it on their website. Truetrac mabe?
Your 02 Chevy would be last generation Express van and I think all of them came with a GM "corporate" 10.5" full floating axle which is a very good rear axle. You can also find better limited slip and lockers for them compared to the later Dana axles.

You're absolutely correct Booster. Just checked the record and the differential installed is a Detroit Truetrac, model # 915545 for a GM 10.5 inch, 14 bolt rear end for a 4:10 and under gear. I believe that I got help with the rearend ID from you and others on this forum as its vital to ordering the correct Detroit Truetrac online. The bolted on yoke housing of this 10.5" rear end was also a helpful ID factor as was the phone calls with Hoopers.

[booster]

Originally Posted by Floorman

You're absolutely correct Booster. Just checked the record and the differential installed is a Detroit Truetrac, model # 915545 for a GM 10.5 inch, 14 bolt rear end for a 4:10 and under gear. I believe that I got help with the rearend ID from you and others on this forum as its vital to ordering the correct Detroit Truetrac online. The bolted on yoke housing of this 10.5" rear end was also a helpful ID factor as was the phone calls with Hoopers.

The Truetrac is a very nice limited slip, but you do need to watch out a bit because they lock up very quickly compared to other limited slip styles. Could be a hazard on ice if it started to lock in the middle of a curve. I have one in my 96 Roadmaster wagon the weighs 5K# and it does chirp the inside rear wheel on right hand turns if I put power on at the same time. Power adding makes them lock tighter, like all limited slips. Of course, with over 5K# just in the rear, it may not be and issue at all with class B.

[Floorman]

Originally Posted by booster

The Truetrac is a very nice limited slip, but you do need to watch out a bit because they lock up very quickly compared to other limited slip styles. Could be a hazard on ice if it started to lock in the middle of a curve. I have one in my 96 Roadmaster wagon the weighs 5K# and it does chirp the inside rear wheel on right hand turns if I put power on at the same time. Power adding makes them lock tighter, like all limited slips. Of course, with over 5K# just in the rear, it may not be and issue at all with class B.

Have had the 2wd Chevy pickups with the oem clutch limited slips and somewhat accustomed to that. I did read that these were quicker to respond so thanks for the heads up. One thing for sure is that I've slowed way down especially with the RT so Ill be taking time to get around curves and going along dirt or icy snowy roads.

[honeyboy]

I replaced mine last fall. Wasn’t too difficult. It is soooo much quieter than the KV. I also added a muffler for the hell of it. Almost can’t hear it running inside. It’s been running flawlessly. Drove 3 hours with the rear house AC on in 100° heat. Didn't crap out once. About a $4k upgrade. You do need adapter brackets to hang it but the remote start harness is plug n play. I did buy a new hour meter so it was set at zero hours. I put it in a 2001 Dodge pop 190.

[Ron Carpenter]

I did two months ago. I have a.09C210P Roadtrek. I researched pretty thoroughly and many RT folks have had successful installs. The exception is those folks that have the. TripLite RV 750 inverter/charger. A wide variety of Our folks have not had a complete successful install with that inverter charger. The primary issue is that the current the generator is sending to the trip white is not accepted and being used to recharge the coach batteries. My RV spent a month and a half in the shop and it is still not resolved. Other folks have been engaged with Cummins management and they’re working on it, but have not come up with a solution. Suggest you go to the Facebook group for Chevy road tracks and search on triple light 2800. There’s a wide variety of commentary there. Except for changing the coach batteries The generator is much quieter, lighter, more fuel, efficient, and has a add-on that allows you to manage the generator through a Bluetooth device. Good luck.