2004 Chevy RT 200P oil change recommendation?

[k1hog]

I have 2004 RT 200P Chevy, it has 160,000 miles. Please advise oil filter and oil for oil change?

Thanks

[booster]

Originally Posted by k1hog

I have 2004 RT 200P Chevy, it has 160,000 miles. Please advise oil filter and oil for oil change?

Thanks

Is it using any oil or leak? That can make a difference. Do you have any idea what has been used in it in the past from glove box receipt or maybe oil change sticker?

You will get a huge range of absolute answers to this, and most will be just fine, so there there are lots of acceptable choices, IMO

[k1hog]

No leaks or usage. Lots of miles.

[booster]

Originally Posted by k1hog

No leaks or usage. Lots of miles.

That would say you are in pretty good shape, IMO, so opens up lots of options.



Without leaks, I would not use the "high mileage" oils as they have seal conditioners in them that can also shorten seal life. Many also have extra antiscuff additives, which is good, but not enough to change to it.


I have never bought into the idea that synthetics are hugely better, but now they have gotten inexpensive enough to justify it, so we have switched on our vehicles, using Mobil 1 most of the time. The better temp handling in a heavy van climbing mountains makes sense, although you should still watch temps. If we are going on a longer trip where I don't want to get an oil change on the road, I will use Redline performance oil (expensive) as it has more additive, including antiscuff, and better high temp than other synthetics.


We use Wix oil filters, as I have seen several cutaway filter articles with pix of the construction of filters and the Wix looked better constructed than others. The only filters I have had an issue with was Fram, when one lost a piece of it's internal construction, heavy paper like, and plugged a turbo oil line on our last hotrod. That cost me over $1K in damage.


As I said, lots of good options, so all of this is opinion based on my biases.


We have had multiple engines last in the 200K mile range without issue, using Dino oil in the past, without using any oil by the time we got rid of them, so risks of various brands or chemistry being bad are probably very low.

[k1hog]

Can you advise oil filter number I am getting conflicting information from the interwebs.

[booster]

Originally Posted by k1hog

Can you advise oil filter number I am getting conflicting information from the interwebs.

I will have to look at what ours our, I have few on the shelf, but ours are not the factory replacement number. I have never cared for the tiny filters that GM went to on V8s and use what I found to be a very close spec wise, longer version.


Is yours a 2004 Roadtrek on a 2004 chassis, also, with a 6.0 engine?


Brain fart, here, we use Wix filters on the vehicles, had recently been trying to find an oddball small engine filter, and had been looking at a lot of Hastings stuff,


For our 6.0, we use the Wix 57045 or the NAPA 7045, which are the same filter made by Wix.

[markopolo]

A 200P RT might be on a 2002 Chevy.
Enter the VIN here: https://chevroletforum.com/forum/vindecoder.php to confirm the van model year.

[booster]

Originally Posted by markopolo

A 200P RT might be on a 2002 Chevy.
Enter the VIN here: https://chevroletforum.com/forum/vindecoder.php to confirm the van model year.

Good point, didn't notice that it is a 200. He could have a 5.7 or 8.1 in his.


I think they all use the same filters, but would need to confirm.


Nope different filters called out.



2002 5.7 Hastings LF279


2002 8.1 Hastings LF509


2004 6.0 Hastings LF232


2007 6.0 Hastings LF613


It think what is going on with 6.0 engines is that up 2006 were the same and then changed in 2007. It probably had to do with a metric or English thread, IIRC


Yep, thread change. The LF279 is the old tall filter style, which is about the same size as our "long" version, so nice if that is what he needs.

[k1hog]

The Chevy chases is a 2003 as identified by the VIN number.

[booster]

Originally Posted by k1hog

The Chevy chases is a 2003 as identified by the VIN number.

That should be a 6.0 AFAIK. What does it say on the under hood emissions sticker. I think they all list the engine size. VIN search should also show it.

[k1hog]

I will check and advise.

Thanks for your help.

[mkguitar]

My 6.0 vortec motor I use Fram PH3506
ANY name brand will do I buy a bunch of filters when on sale, the extra cost of the "suregrip" coating is a geegaw.
the PH3506's I bought a case for cheap

I use synthetic oil* - synthetic does a good job of removing heat from the hottest parts of the motor with out breaking down

and I prefer mobil 1 ( walmart/amazon NOT costco for best price)

use the viscosity in your manual and adjust for climate- go heavier in full on desert hot, go lighter in Canada winter

Having a number of vehicles, I have various containers of mobil 1 is different ratings for 0w-5 ( prius) to 20w-50 (summer pick up)

I can change oil with van flat on driveway


turn steering wheel all the way right, turn off van

you can slide/reach under from behind the LF tire


get your pan under and remove oil filter, if you don't have a filter wrench, bang a screwdriver into the side of the filter, and use that to turn it off.
The hole from the screwdriver also gives a controllable stream of oil to collect.


once drained, remove filter fully ( examine that ALL the seal is on the filter, have a look at the mount and ensure no old seal is left behind.


then apply clean fresh oil smear to seal on new filter, turn on new filter BY HAND

the drain plug is 15mm

get you pan under and be prepared for the oil to project about 14" to the rear when you pull the plug. once draining give it 20 minutes. wipe the area away from the hole and reinstall plug, moderate torque- 7 ft lbs or so...snug

oil capacity will vary due to whether an oil cooler has been installed- start off with 5 quarts and then add oil 1/2 quart at a time until you see the clear fresh oil on the dipstick- the interval between the low and high marks is 1 qt.

once the motor is started, the filter will fill with oil, so recheck the level after you have driven the van and warmed up the oil.

pour used oil into jug and recycle at ANY auto parts store- by Federal law if they sell oil, they have to accept oil for recycling- you don;t have to be a customer.

on a long trip I will change my oil at anywhere between 3500~5000 miles depending on heat hiway or city driving


If you decide to use a oil change service- they typically price on conventional oil- ask if they have full synthetic and the price.
Some will rip you off
Do not accept an oil change which sucks the old oil out through the dipstick tube- this leaves the dirtiest oil in the pan- ask to see your old filter too.
( these quick stops get busted all the time, but some are good and honest)



Mike


* in my van the previous owner was advised to use conventional oil- an error I think.
I drained that and used semisynthetic for 2 changes, and am now 100% syn. running 10w-40 as most of our trips start in the desert and we go to cooler climates asap.
Heavier ( higher number) oil doesn't flow as quickly on a cold start

[dicktill]

Originally Posted by booster

I will have to look at what ours our, I have few on the shelf, but ours are not the factory replacement number. I have never cared for the tiny filters that GM went to on V8s and use what I found to be a very close spec wise, longer version.

Is yours a 2004 Roadtrek on a 2004 chassis, also, with a 6.0 engine?

Brain fart, here, we use Wix filters on the vehicles, had recently been trying to find an oddball small engine filter, and had been looking at a lot of Hastings stuff,

For our 6.0, we use the Hastings 57045 or the NAPA 7045, which are the same filter made by Wix.

Sorry, do you mean Hastings 57045 or Wix 57045?

[peteco]

Here are some interesting articles regarding change of filter bypass spec for 6.0 engine in newer models.

https://www.gm-trucks.com/forums/top...7045-vs-10255/

https://www.gm-trucks.com/forums/top...7045-vs-10255/

[booster]

Originally Posted by dicktill

Sorry, do you mean Hastings 57045 or Wix 57045?

Bad morning, I think, went back and changed one and missed the other

[booster]

Originally Posted by peteco

Here are some interesting articles regarding change of filter bypass spec for 6.0 engine in newer models.

https://www.gm-trucks.com/forums/top...7045-vs-10255/

https://www.gm-trucks.com/forums/top...7045-vs-10255/

What I find really interesting in that is that both of those filters are the tall ones, not the shorties like are called out for our vans with the 6.0. Shorty filters are kind of famous for putting the pump in bypass earlier regardless of setting, and even blowing off the filter on one of their engines a number of years ago in cold weather. Sounds like the same kind of issue to some extent.



Once warm, there would probably be no real difference at all unless you had an issue at idle. If the engine is just holding 13 psi, it will be bypassing some which is not good idea in some engines.



We used to always "port" the high volume oil pumps so they could bypass more and not bulge the filters when cold, which would be a similar problem. Of course that would do nothing for getting oil the engine faster.

[k1hog]

After Action Report

Oil and filter changed.

Thanks all for the information.