2003 Roadtrek 200 P on 2002 Chevy Express chassis. Steering Wander

[markopolo]

I think just about everyone here who put Bilsteins on their Chevy's used 24-221948 on the rear. That was the part number for my 1997 van and it looks like it is still is the part number for current vans.

I think most here like them even if they're maybe harsher on big bumps. No more porpoising after Bilsteins installed front & rear on my van.

[PJW73NH]

Thanks Marko. Not worried about the big bumps. It's the little ones like in an inner city beltway situation where the trucks have sort of torn up the top layer of pavement here and there. In my rig it feels like I am going over deep, jarring cobblestones.

[PJW73NH]

UPDATE:

Ordered the Bilsteins from Amazon $162. I sprayed the upper and lower bolts with PBlaster 4-5 times over the course of 10 days. I installed them on Monday.

I backed the RT up on ramps. Plenty of room underneath now. I was concerned that I would not have the muscle to push the bottoms up into place, and I couldn't use a floor jack because the shocks are angled and it would have just pushed the jack backwards. I suppose I could've made a jig for the jack.

But instead, the first shock came out and did not expand (It was shot). So at this point I had the exact measurement I needed for the new shock. I took a length of mechanics wire, and tied a loop around the old shock (length-wise). Then when I went to install the new shock, I used all my weight to compress it down fully, I then slipped the loop of mechanics wire over it and let it expand into the loop. See attached pics.

I coated all bolts with anti-seize and threaded the top ones in first. I got them started, but didn't sock them down. This gave me some play for the bottom bolt. Once all bolts were in, I socked all the bolts down and took the mechanics wire off. All done !!!

I was pretty sure the second one would be shot as well, but rather than take the chance. I was able to easily thread the mechanics wire up and over the second shock and tighten it to a loop in place. Then removed the second shock. As I suspected, it was shot too. It didn't expand either.

It took me about 15 minutes per side.

The results:
The RT sits about an inch higher in the rear and has MUCH less roll on turns. It steers and handles better, bumps small and large are better/softer, but the rough "gravel-ly" surface/road noise remains unchanged. Just to be clear it isn't drive train noise I am hearing/feeling, it's road/surface noise. It may be tire related.

Anyway, I am pleased with the results and look forward to our next trip (whenever that is).

I hope this helps someone.

[markopolo]

Originally Posted by PJW73NH

....................But instead, the first shock came out and did not expand (It was shot). So at this point I had the exact measurement I needed for the new shock. I took a length of mechanics wire, and tied a loop around the old shock (length-wise). Then when I went to install the new shock, I used all my weight to compress it down fully, I then slipped the loop of mechanics wire over it and let it expand into the loop. See attached pics.......................

That is a great idea! I did the push from below and it was not easy.

[Deano]

As I had already bolted the shocks at the top, I used a ratcheting cargo strap to compress the shocks.

Do you have aftermarket wheels on your RT. RT used aluminum wheels with the wrong offset. Replacing them with correct offset wheels has made a big improvement for several of us on this forum.

[PJW73NH]

Deano,

Another great idea !!!

[PJW73NH]

Hi Deano, Sorry for the late reply. If what is shown in the brochure are the actual wheels, then I have aftermarket. Attached is what is currently on my RT.

[rowiebowie]

I purchased Koni FDS shocks from shockwarehouse.com specifically because they are not gas-charged. I believe they offer a smoother ride because they have no pre-loaded resistance, but that is only my opinion.

They ride very well and definitely offer excellent damping and rebound. At a price point of nearly $200 each, they better be good.

I also went for a pricey set of shocks so that if they didn't improve things (they did), I'd at least know I tried the best reviewed set I could buy.
.

[booster]

Originally Posted by PJW73NH

Hi Deano, Sorry for the late reply. If what is shown in the brochure are the actual wheels, then I have aftermarket. Attached is what is currently on my RT.

I think you have the previous generation of Chevy van and it is a cutaway?


If that is the case, it is possible the offset of those wheels will be correct. I think with the model updates at generation change may have been when the offset changed. Do you have greaseable front wheel bearings and rear drum brakes?

[pine_beetle]

I have a '95 190 versatile on a 1 ton Chevrolet chassis. My steering play was not quite that bad but certainly made me weary to drive very far and the wind worsened the situation. Because of the age, a new steering gear was no longer available so I had a reputable service shop with good front end equipment and experience install a unit. That solved the play problem and the cost was right at $500 parts and labor.

[rowiebowie]

Originally Posted by pine_beetle

I have a '95 190 versatile on a 1 ton Chevrolet chassis. My steering play was not quite that bad but certainly made me weary to drive very far and the wind worsened the situation. Because of the age, a new steering gear was no longer available so I had a reputable service shop with good front end equipment and experience install a unit. That solved the play problem and the cost was right at $500 parts and labor.

pine beetle, good info. Based on time gap between when you joined and number of replies (1), you need to post more often.

[booster]

Originally Posted by pine_beetle

I have a '95 190 versatile on a 1 ton Chevrolet chassis. My steering play was not quite that bad but certainly made me weary to drive very far and the wind worsened the situation. Because of the age, a new steering gear was no longer available so I had a reputable service shop with good front end equipment and experience install a unit. That solved the play problem and the cost was right at $500 parts and labor.

What unit did they install if the original gear was not available?

[PJW73NH]

Originally Posted by booster

I think you have the previous generation of Chevy van and it is a cutaway?


If that is the case, it is possible the offset of those wheels will be correct. I think with the model updates at generation change may have been when the offset changed. Do you have greaseable front wheel bearings and rear drum brakes?

Yes my RT is a 2003 coach on a 2002 3500 Cutaway chassis. I don't know about the grease-able front wheel bearings, but I definitely have drum rears.

[pine_beetle]

The re-manufactured steering boxes were once new units that were turned as rebuildable cores or purchased from salvage yards. There are companies that specialize re-manufacturing by taking a housing that is within specification and installing new internal parts. Warranties on re-manufactured parts are not normally as long as a new item but when you can't get a new one, you take what you can get.

[booster]

Originally Posted by pine_beetle

The re-manufactured steering boxes were once new units that were turned as rebuildable cores or purchased from salvage yards. There are companies that specialize re-manufacturing by taking a housing that is within specification and installing new internal parts. Warranties on re-manufactured parts are not normally as long as a new item but when you can't get a new one, you take what you can get.

Now it makes sense. OEM units new from the factory disappear from the market very quickly maybe 5 years and everything is rebuilds from there on.



The quality of the rebuilds varies immensely as does the price, from top of the the line Redheads to off the shelf parts store ones that may or may not have the right internals in them for your particular vehicle. Sometimes they even make handling issues worse from poor rebuilding.

[pine_beetle]

There is an adjustment that can be made on the steering box to remove some of the play but mine was worn beyond adjustment and yours probably is too based on the age and mileage of your coach.