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04-21-2021, 05:49 PM
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#1
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New Member
Join Date: Apr 2021
Location: Georgia
Posts: 4
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1996 Roadtrek Popular electrical problem
Hi everyone! I am Elliott, a new owner for a for a 1996 Chevy Roadtrek 210 popular (short intro) Fist of all I would like to say thank you for the forum I've learned a lot by checking it out.
I just bought a 1996 Chevy Roadtrek 210 Popular with 92k mileage the problem I am having is that the battery drain overnight do to parasite currents. I am measuring .54 milliamps I remove all the fuses but not luck finding the problem.
-I found that the Isolator was bad and I by pass it,
- eliminate the alarm system, the radio, and I discounted the cable going from the Isolator to the house battery
- the people I bought it from told me that the alternator and the battery are new
- in idle stage the battery read 14.5 Volts
- with the battery disconnected reads 12.39 Volts if I connected back up again the system start dropping slowly
Any ideas??
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04-21-2021, 06:55 PM
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#2
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Platinum Member
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Minnesota
Posts: 12,415
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When you say "bypassed" the isolator does that mean jumper around it?
Where are you measuring the parasitic current, coach battery or starting battery?
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04-21-2021, 09:24 PM
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#3
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New Member
Join Date: Apr 2021
Location: Georgia
Posts: 4
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I mean I am not using the isolator for the moment I splice the alternator and battery cable together because the isolator is shorted out. I am measuring at the the engine battery... I hope that answer your question.
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04-21-2021, 09:44 PM
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#4
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Platinum Member
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Minnesota
Posts: 12,415
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Xplore
I mean I am not using the isolator for the moment I splice the alternator and battery cable together because the isolator is shorted out. I am measuring at the the engine battery... I hope that answer your question.
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You are dealing with just the van OEM electronics unless it has been altered by someone. I assume you mean 54 milliamps not .54. That is .054 amps so in 24 hours would only be a bit over 1 amp hour of battery use, which should not kill any starting battery.
I guess the question is, what problem are you trying to fix?
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04-22-2021, 01:19 AM
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#5
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Platinum Member
Join Date: Jun 2017
Location: Oregon, Washington, Arizona and California
Posts: 245
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I think the OP meant 0.54 Amps.
It's interesting the previous owner replaced the alternator, so this might have been going on a while, OR they put in a bad alternator.
I saw a place where they rebuild these, and it's amazing they can do anything right. (an auction at a bankrupt company with an hiding place for undocumented workers) Disconnect the alternator output and if that doesn't drop the current, look at the voltage regulator.
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04-22-2021, 11:24 AM
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#6
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New Member
Join Date: Apr 2021
Location: Georgia
Posts: 4
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Mic7320 I will disconnect the alternator today and let you know how it goes.
thanks
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04-23-2021, 02:30 AM
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#7
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New Member
Join Date: Apr 2021
Location: Georgia
Posts: 4
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I disconnected the cable that goes from the alternator to the battery (the one use to charge the battery when the van is running) and the amps reading drop to zero.
I did measured the diodes and they look good?
do you all think is because I am not using the Isolator? do you all think that once I install the new Isolator the problem is going to be gone?
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04-23-2021, 03:23 AM
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#8
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Platinum Member
Join Date: Jun 2017
Location: Oregon, Washington, Arizona and California
Posts: 245
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Alternators are multiphase generators with a diode array. The most likely problem is a bad diode, so maybe you somehow missed it when you measured it. Or, maybe it has a different leakage pathway, such as a short to the frame, but it appears you have now isolated it to the alternator.
Do you still have contact with the seller? There may be a warranty on the alternator.
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04-25-2021, 04:36 AM
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#9
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New Member
Join Date: Apr 2021
Location: Georgia
Posts: 4
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I did installed a new Isolator today and looks like is working I let the battery connected today, I will see in the morning if it still charge but the amp reading was zero after that change, so it should be charge. But I do agree with you the diodes in the alternator are shorted I will be taking it back to the place that installed the alternator and let them check it out.
Thanks for your input and advise.
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04-30-2021, 04:04 PM
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#10
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New Member
Join Date: Jun 2020
Location: Utah
Posts: 3
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Battery Cut off
This is common with RT. You will spend a lot of time trying to track this down and probably never find it. Because you have a "house" tied to vehicle it can be challenging. You can install a separator in lieu of the isolator with a rocker switch ( auto, combine, separate), or you can install a switch on the battery to break the negative to ground. ( a lot easier.) I installed this switch and use it if the van is going to sit for 5 days or more. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
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