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Old 08-01-2020, 09:38 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by avanti View Post
The Clean Air Act is federal (not CA). California may have even stricter rules, but as the link I provided shows, emissions tampering is illegal everywhere in the US, and engine swapping across series is almost always prohibitively difficult without violating the law.
....

yes to your ENTIRE post.


California is stricter than most States and generally leads Federal regs by 1 model year
1963 PCV valve
1966 AIR injection
1974 catalytic
etc

and has real teeth in the "swap" with visual & function checks based on the VIN

( knowing of incoming 1966 regs, Carroll Shelby registered a huge number of 1965 manufacture VIN's.
and was caught selling new built cars as "1965" models in the 80's.
oops)


Mike
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Old 08-01-2020, 10:00 PM   #22
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When I recently purchased my 2016 Kawasaki Z1000 with only 900 miles on it from an owner in Florida I discovered afterwards that it was a Miracle that the bike was first purchased & registered in San Diego CA before he returned 500 miles later to Florida.

Otherwise I would not have been able to register it in CA until it had 7501 miles.

As it was, the day the bike arrived stock I rode to the DMV & they spent an hour making sure not only was all the paperwork correct but that all the emissions equipment was on the bike including every single Emissions Sticker, if one sticker wasn't on the bike they would red tag it until I could get a replacement sticker verified as OEM.

BACK to the OP, you mention Federal trumps all but what about in the states or even Canada if he isn't in California.
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Old 08-01-2020, 10:04 PM   #23
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The difference between CA & the real world ...
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Old 08-01-2020, 10:10 PM   #24
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Ontario has strict emissions


the Harley dealer in Yuma sells CA spec bikes, so as to be able to sell on both sides of the border, rather than carry 2 inventories. a few "border dealers" do that.

generally a milder cam with less overlap, noise controls on intake and exhaust- the old evo motor was 55HP 49 state and 45 HP in CA stock


you may find diff specs for your model 49 vs CA



native Californians tend to know not to buy non-market vehicles

mike
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Old 08-01-2020, 10:19 PM   #25
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Originally Posted by mkguitar View Post
the Harley dealer in Yuma sells CA spec bikes, so as to be able to sell on both sides of the border, rather than carry 2 inventories. a few "border dealers" do that.

generally a milder cam with less overlap, noise controls on intake and exhaust- the old evo motor was 55HP 49 state and 45 HP in CA stock

mike
The rider who settles for 45hp versus 55hp, even a Harley isn't really a rider, they are more a wannabe who spends an hour suiting up to ride 5 minutes to the busy coffee shop, only on Sundays.

My bike puts out 158hp.

But then again, my other vehicle is a 2005 Roadtrek 190 with an average weight of 9400lbs
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Old 08-01-2020, 10:47 PM   #26
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Carol Shelby was a great man, his wife & daughter are patients of mine.

I can see how the Mindset in charge of CA would go after him.

Can someone explain how Jasper has a viable motor replacement biz, in the face of all this EPA meddling since they have been the best option in remanufactured automobile components since 1942.
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Old 08-01-2020, 10:59 PM   #27
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Before we drift away, there's one other comment for the OP that I have. Most of you have much newer RVs than 1994. In my 1997 there is an airbag.....for the driver. None for the passenger. I would guess it's the same with a 94. So some of the safety features that we've become accustomed to in our newer vehicles aren't there in the oldies.
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Old 08-01-2020, 11:44 PM   #28
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Great point.

May affect resale value.

But then again, it comes down to the money in one's pocket. Such a personal decision.
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Old 08-06-2020, 04:09 AM   #29
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I would get a second and third estimate for replacing those brakes, ball joints, and shocks.
Seems like a high estimate for shocks, brakes (even with replacing calipers), and ball joints. You should get another estimate.
You could do the work yourself if you're handy. Parts from Rockauto.com or amazon.Special tools loaned from autozone or advance auto parts(ball joint press). YouTube has videos showing how to do the work.
It's not rocket science if you don't mind getting your hands dirty!
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Old 08-06-2020, 04:25 AM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mkguitar View Post
yes to your ENTIRE post.


California is stricter than most States and generally leads Federal regs by 1 model year
1963 PCV valve
1966 AIR injection
1974 catalytic
etc

Mike
My 62 vette had a california option that eliminated the road tube in favor of a PVC valve so it might even predate that. Mine didn't have that but I installed one to eliminate the road tube vapors coming up through the gear shift tunnel.
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Old 08-06-2020, 05:16 PM   #31
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Originally Posted by Kwemobile View Post
Brought my 1994 Dodge Pleasureway in for it's annual checkup in June. I've owned it since 2016 and so far it's been great. But this year my mechanic gave me a $3K+ estimate on parts & labor to replace the front brakes, shocks and ball joints. He said it was up to me if I wanted to get the work done but said spending that much money on it was at my risk because the van also has some rust on the body, and at this age, any number of things could go wrong with the engine in the coming years and parts could be harder to find.

The van is not perfect and has its idiosyncracies but overall I really enjoy it and doubt I'd be able to afford another. It's parked right now but I'm torn between saving up the money to fix it or just selling it as is.

Any thoughts from other 1990's-era class b owners?
I just had the brakes and shocks replaced and it cost $600. I think you have an expensive mechanic. These are easy jobs. These vans are simple and last a long time. They are very valuable now given the replacements are 3 times the price, larger and more expensive to fix.
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Old 08-06-2020, 07:03 PM   #32
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$3000 is outrageous. $1500 to $2000 would be an agreeable estimate. Sounds like you need to find a new mechanic that will treat you fair. I have a 1994 pleasureway myself. I have been able to find all parts online from ROCKAUTO and some at great discounts due to clearance sales from various manufacturers. $3000 in my book is not justified or reasonable at all. Just my thoughts.
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Old 08-06-2020, 07:10 PM   #33
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Shop around for repair prices. Get quotes on each repair. Then get group quote. Your mechanic is not the only game in town.
Body rust is really a non issue, frame rust is serious. Have a body and frame shop check it for you so you know if safe to drive.
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Old 08-06-2020, 07:20 PM   #34
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Originally Posted by TygerMark View Post
I would get a second and third estimate for replacing those brakes, ball joints, and shocks.
I do not have the estimate to review the chargs (especially labor and related operations), but, for the repairs to the front suspension you are describing, there are many (no, wait, MANY) related and overlapping labor operations involved.

For instance, in order to change the ball joints, etc., a mechanic must disassemble the brakes and remove the rotors, etc. JUST THE SAME AS completing a front axle brake job. So, my point is that you probably should get more info regarding the overall labor charges and make sure that overlapping labor (for overlapping operations) are removed.

You might also find a certified Mechanic (like ASE Certified which is really a big deal and not easy to just become one over time, industry tests have to be taken and passsed) who will do this kind of repair themselves after whours of on the side. Just make sure the person is certified - just an idea.
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Old 08-06-2020, 07:33 PM   #35
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Back to your original question. I owned a 1994 PW Dodge. Sold it with 225K miles to a neighbor about 7-8 years ago. He still owns it and his mechanic said the engine is in great shape, never rebuilt. Doesn't burn oil. $3k, if that's what it takes, is not much considering the alternatives. If all else is in good shape it is worth keeping especially since you don't use it that much. I used to put on 15-20K miles a year. Sure, stuff breaks, especially the front breaks. I replaced pads every year. You are right on with one thing, no toilet, no heat, no comfy bed...no camping. Have fun...
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Old 08-07-2020, 01:23 AM   #36
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If you are not mechanically inclined, I would sell. It is a good time to sell. As soon as you drop the $3k, the water pump or more serious stuff will go and you get stuck with....well I already spent $3k, might as well put another $500... Oops batteries...ok, another $500...
Just a personal view, but I think buying 3-5 years old, low mileage, and then selling after another 4-5 years makes sense.
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Old 08-07-2020, 07:28 PM   #37
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Kwemobile,

The $3k+ estimate for front brakes, shocks and ball joints is HIGH.
I would get another estimate. Sounds like he really doesn't want to do the job so he quoted you a higher (than normal) estimate.

Do you have a second mechanic that you can take it to? If not, ask a friend or two and check with a different mechanic. for an estimate.

David
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