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09-07-2020, 02:53 AM
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#41
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Platinum Member
Join Date: Dec 2011
Posts: 1,619
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this was an old thread FOGEY,
In the end I went ahead and installed a Novakool R3800 a week befor the Heatwave a month ago struck - perfect fit, excellent unit but I attributed many teething problems to the Novakool when in fact, upon closer inspection my RV guy found a loose connects here my negative was connected by the shunt - as soon as that was fixed, my unit ran fantastic & my Solar waa getting enough sun to turn to reach float by 10am.
Now we are in a second historic Heatwave & i had to crank up the unit little so its probably cycling more than 50%.
50% cycle is about 26 amp hours draw over 24 hours.
__________________
Full Timer in a 2005 Roadtrek Versatile 190/Super Modified & Lifted, Two 220ah Lifeline 6 Volt AGMs in Series, 250 watts Solar, Victron BMV712 Meter & Victron MTTP 100V/30A Solar Controller, Magnum MMS1012 Inverter Charger, Onan 2.8 Generator, Novakool R3800 Fridge & more ...
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01-15-2021, 11:58 AM
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#42
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Bronze Member
Join Date: Dec 2020
Location: VA
Posts: 46
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The more I've read, the more I tend to agree with this.
If one is on the road, the fridge would be using DC power. If one is boondocking, with no generator running, the fridge is on DC power. However, if one is plugged into shore power, wouldn't the fridge still run fine on it's native DC power, while the RT's on board charger keep the batteries topped off?
Quote:
Originally Posted by avanti
Yes, it is correct. Fridges with Danfoss compressors are native 12VDC as you say. The "120VAC" option is just a wall-wart-style DC adaptor. Makes no sense at all in an RV.
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01-15-2021, 12:42 PM
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#43
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Platinum Member
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Minnesota
Posts: 12,395
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Atlee Hokie
The more I've read, the more I tend to agree with this.
If one is on the road, the fridge would be using DC power. If one is boondocking, with no generator running, the fridge is on DC power. However, if one is plugged into shore power, wouldn't the fridge still run fine on it's native DC power, while the RT's on board charger keep the batteries topped off?
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Yep, there is really only one tiny, tiny, downside to not having the 110v side and that would be if you need lots of battery charging in a short time and your charger is very small so the 3-4 amps to frig would slow down the charging.
In the real world this would almost never happen, though.
We have had our 12v only frig for a decade with no problems at all and never missed the 110v version at all.
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01-15-2021, 07:23 PM
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#44
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Platinum Member
Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: Portland, Oregon
Posts: 3,274
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In our specific situation I found AC/DC fridge useful. When the van is parked in the garage and connected to AC, I can disconnect batteries, charger, all AC appliances except the fridge. We use this option often before and after the trip or if we need extra fridge capacity. So, in our situation it is useful. Could we live without it - yes, was it worth extra $100 for this option and $20 for CB - yes.
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01-16-2021, 02:24 AM
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#45
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Platinum Member
Join Date: Sep 2020
Location: CA
Posts: 125
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Why would you run an ac fridge in a van? Are you trying to go residential? Dc fridge will be more efficient. You won’t have to waste power to run the inverter and convert the energy. New inverters can charge your batteries while you are plugged in with an automatic transfer switch.
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01-16-2021, 02:25 AM
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#46
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Platinum Member
Join Date: Sep 2020
Location: CA
Posts: 125
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GeorgeRa
In our specific situation I found AC/DC fridge useful. When the van is parked in the garage and connected to AC, I can disconnect batteries, charger, all AC appliances except the fridge. We use this option often before and after the trip or if we need extra fridge capacity. So, in our situation it is useful. Could we live without it - yes, was it worth extra $100 for this option and $20 for CB - yes.
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How about just pull the fuse?
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01-16-2021, 02:30 AM
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#47
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Site Team
Join Date: Jul 2013
Posts: 5,424
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Quote:
Originally Posted by coss370
Why would you run an ac fridge in a van? Are you trying to go residential? Dc fridge will be more efficient. You won’t have to waste power to run the inverter and convert the energy. New inverters can charge your batteries while you are plugged in with an automatic transfer switch.
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They are not really discussing actual AC fridges, but rather DC fridges that come with a $100 option consisting of an 120VAC->12VDC power brick. They don't make sense for most people, although there are special cases, such as the one that George describes.
There is a fringe group that believes in using true AC "dorm" fridges, but that is a different story.
__________________
Now: 2022 Fully-custom buildout (Ford Transit EcoBoost AWD)
Formerly: 2005 Airstream Interstate (Sprinter 2500 T1N)
2014 Great West Vans Legend SE (Sprinter 3500 NCV3 I4)
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01-16-2021, 05:21 AM
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#48
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Platinum Member
Join Date: Sep 2020
Location: CA
Posts: 125
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Quote:
Originally Posted by avanti
They are not really discussing actual AC fridges, but rather DC fridges that come with a $100 option consisting of an 120VAC->12VDC power brick. They don't make sense for most people, although there are special cases, such as the one that George describes.
There is a fringe group that believes in using true AC "dorm" fridges, but that is a different story.
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They are just cheap
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