12 volt DC Fridge or 110 Volt - is the latter a viable option?

[GallenH]

Got it. Makes sense.

[themexicandoctor]

Originally Posted by GeorgeRa

I have ACDC compressor fridge and use it often. When we come back from a trip and I want everything off except fridge. On my easily accessible control panel I have 2 CBs, Fridge AC or Fridge DC. I would not use this option of my van would be wired for easy AC <> DC change. So, for a commercial van I would agree with Avanti, AC has a limited value.

If you choose to add AC the cost would be about $20-25 for a quality ACDC 12V 10A converter brick.

GEORGE RA,

Are you saying that I wasted $175+ buying the Novakool AC Option versus buying just the Brick?

Or am I missing the application of "the 12volt Native ..."

[booster]

Originally Posted by themexicandoctor

GEORGE RA,

Are you saying that I wasted $175+ buying the Novakool AC Option versus buying just the Brick?

Or am I missing the application of "the 12volt Native ..."

Native 12v means that the plain basic frig would run on DC and not on AC.


All the AC option does is add a small inverter to get the power to DC again.


What you wind up with when on AC from shore power is AC shore power turned into DC at the frig and then used to run the frg.


On AC when on batteries you have DC from batteries turned to AC at the van inverter that is changed to DC at the frig to run it.


If you don't have the AC option, when on batteries the frig runs directly off the DC from the batteries.


If on on shore power you go from AC shore power, to the battery charger which changes it do DC that goes directly to frig to run it.

[GeorgeRa]

Originally Posted by themexicandoctor

GEORGE RA,
Are you saying that I wasted $175+ buying the Novakool AC Option versus buying just the Brick?
Or am I missing the application of "the 12volt Native ..."

I think Novakool is using Danfoss compressors so based on what I know about Danfoss the difference between ACDC and DC models are:

1. Different connection patterns
2. An addition of AC to DC convertor which Danfoss most likely buys from someone.

I am not going to judge if you wasted the money, you should be able to answered that question with answers to the following questions:

1. How exactly are you planning to use AC mode?
2. Do you prefer factory or Amazon brick?

[themexicandoctor]

That helps me justify the extra $200.

The Salesperson was right, all those components later might cost $4-500.

Thank you!

[themexicandoctor]

Just read your second message - so it's simply a brick that Novakool buys third party (after rigorous testing), and then adds on during the build or is it a more sophisticated inverter?

[GeorgeRa]

Originally Posted by themexicandoctor

Just read your second message - so it's simply a brick that Novakool buys third party (after rigorous testing), and then adds on during the build or is it a more sophisticated inverter?

The AC option is by Danfoss, the same for Novakool or Isotherm. Novakool installs either ACDC or DC unit. (DC only) benefit is direct acceptance – plug and play of Smart Energy Controller by Isotherm https://www.suremarineservice.com/Ga...iABEgLwbfD_BwE

SEC installation can be done on ACDC Danfoss but is more complex. This option in my view would dwarf the need for AC option. I have AC option but could easily manage without it.

[themexicandoctor]

Originally Posted by GeorgeRa

The AC option is by Danfoss, the same for Novakool or Isotherm. Novakool installs either ACDC or DC unit. (DC only) benefit is direct acceptance – plug and play of Smart Energy Controller by Isotherm https://www.suremarineservice.com/Ga...iABEgLwbfD_BwE

SEC installation can be done on ACDC Danfoss but is more complex. This option in my view would dwarf the need for AC option. I have AC option but could easily manage without it.

As to the question of how I would use it I chose the AC simply because;

1. If I ever took the Fridge out of the rig permanently

2. If Solar wasn't available & I wasn't running the motor or generator but had access to Shore Power.

3. Even if my batteries were performing flawlessly, the option when I had access to Shore Power to run an Equalisation Charge & or, give the batteries an opportunity to benefit from Shore Power.

Is there any benefit I am missing?

And does running the unit on AC via Free Shore Power, negatively affect performance & amp draw efficiency* when doing so?

*its Free so I am not concerned

Are the reasons I listed above accurate & realistic & am I missing others that are important?

Because my unit with the AC Option hasn't arrived yet so if you think I may not need that option, I can easily save $200 & order it without.

I understand conceptually the benefits of the ISEC & ITEC System with Isotherm, the Salesperson wasnt very clear if I purchased the Cruise 100 if it would make much difference in a unit that runs 400amps minimum for the extra $150 option.

Are you saying that you George have the AC Option on a Isotherm?

Or a Novakool?

[GeorgeRa]

Originally Posted by themexicandoctor

As to the question of how I would use it I chose the AC simply because;

1. If I ever took the Fridge out of the rig permanently

2. If Solar wasn't available & I wasn't running the motor or generator but had access to Shore Power.

3. Even if my batteries were performing flawlessly, the option when I had access to Shore Power to run an Equalisation Charge & or, give the batteries an opportunity to benefit from Shore Power.

Is there any benefit I am missing?

And does running the unit on AC via Free Shore Power, negatively affect performance & amp draw efficiency* when doing so?

*its Free so I am not concerned

Are the reasons I listed above accurate & realistic & am I missing others that are important?

Because my unit with the AC Option hasn't arrived yet so if you think I may not need that option, I can easily save $200 & order it without.

I understand conceptually the benefits of the ISEC & ITEC System with Isotherm, the Salesperson wasnt very clear if I purchased the Cruise 100 if it would make much difference in a unit that runs 400amps minimum for the extra $150 option.

Are you saying that you George have the AC Option on a Isotherm?

Or a Novakool?

We all have different needs, you are thinking about potentially removing a fridge, I don’t think I would ever do that. I have AC/DC Isotherm 85 Cruise with SEC installed (Danfoss compressor).

[themexicandoctor]

Originally Posted by GeorgeRa

We all have different needs, you are thinking about potentially removing a fridge, I don’t think I would ever do that. I have AC/DC Isotherm 85 Cruise with SEC installed (Danfoss compressor).

Now that I think about it, why pull the fridge out of a new Home Unit it is only going to cost $200?

Scratch the idea but are my other needs viable?

[GeorgeRa]

Originally Posted by themexicandoctor

Now that I think about it, why pull the fridge out of a new Home Unit it is only going to cost $200?

Scratch the idea but are my other needs viable?

2. If Solar wasn't available & I wasn't running the motor or generator but had access to Shore Power.
I am missing this logic, you don’t need solar nor alternator nor generator with shore available, with shore you should have DC unless your charger went kaput.

3. Even if my batteries were performing flawlessly, the option when I had access to Shore Power to run an Equalisation Charge & or, give the batteries an opportunity to benefit from Shore Power.
Sorry, can’t see the logic.

[themexicandoctor]

You are right, there is no reason for me to have a AC Option, will call first thing in the am & cancel.

Thank you!

[GallenH]

Booster/GeorgeRa:

Just so I get this correct, if you have a DC only unit, it runs off of shore power indirectly via the charger/controller. Does the charger controller only send DC to the battery where it gets distributed back to the DC portion of the control panel....or...does the AC get stepped down to 12v with part going to the charger to charge the battery and part going directly to the DC control panel? So in the last scenerio, if you had to pull your house batteries for some reason and there was no battery storage or pass through available, the shore power would still power your DC circuits incl the fridge.

[GeorgeRa]

Originally Posted by GallenH

Booster/GeorgeRa:

Just so I get this correct, if you have a DC only unit, it runs off of shore power indirectly via the charger/controller. Does the charger controller only send DC to the battery where it gets distributed back to the DC portion of the control panel....or...does the AC get stepped down to 12v with part going to the charger to charge the battery and part going directly to the DC control panel? So in the last scenerio, if you had to pull your house batteries for some reason and there was no battery storage or pass through available, the shore power would still power your DC circuits incl the fridge.

If you you need to remove a battery bank without a 12 VDC power supply / a brick there is no power to feed a DC fridge.

Most if not all chargers need a battery to power DC appliances. You could get a AC > DC power converter with stable 12 VDC output, a brick.

[themexicandoctor]

Two questions;

1. I assumed that my new DC Fridge would be connected to wires already existing in my truck & that there would be no need for the Magnum Inverter to be involved because its job is only to convert ac to dc & dc to ac when connected to shore power/ac?

ie: the fridge would work without the inverter being turned on.

Am I incorrect?

2. When I look at this box of electronic equipment, I might as well be looking at a box of pretzels because I simply pay Professionals to do all this (its not my expertise)

By connecting to the dc wires running through the Roadtrek, I assume they would choose those that run to my house battery bank, put in a fuse & I would get data via my Victron equipment automatically?

ie; from the day of installation, I would start to see 1. greater yields from my Victron MTTP solar set up because demand was higher & 2. greater overnight discharge numbers via the Smart Meter.

Or is it more involved than that & if so, what is involved?*

*or do I not need to know this

[themexicandoctor]

And that the only time the Inverter would be involved is when I am connected to Shore Power or the Generator was running, whether I had the AC Option or not.

Is this correct?

[themexicandoctor]

While I am on hold with Sure Marine in Seattle, he suggested the only reason one would purchase the AC Option is;

If you are connected to Shore Power in a dock (marine application), for extended periods of time (Monday to Friday), it will save your battery system from going through the charge cycles & allow you to leave the fridge on.

I can see how that translates into an RV situation when hooking up for extended periods of time & for overnights.

For me, at this time, I rarely hook up to Shore Power.

As it is, my purchased fridge just arrived today & it will be delivered next week versus cancelling & waiting another 6 weeks for a new cycle of manufacture.

For those of you on the West Coast, interested in buying a Novakool (or other brands) two companies were excellent to deal with price & information wise;

Robert Pick at Southern California Marine in San Diego & Steve or Graham at Sure Marine in Seattle.

[GeorgeRa]

Originally Posted by themexicandoctor

Two questions;

1. I assumed that my new DC Fridge would be connected to wires already existing in my truck & that there would be no need for the Magnum Inverter to be involved because its job is only to convert ac to dc & dc to ac when connected to shore power/ac?

ie: the fridge would work without the inverter being turned on.

Am I incorrect?

2. When I look at this box of electronic equipment, I might as well be looking at a box of pretzels because I simply pay Professionals to do all this (its not my expertise)

By connecting to the dc wires running through the Roadtrek, I assume they would choose those that run to my house battery bank, put in a fuse & I would get data via my Victron equipment automatically?

ie; from the day of installation, I would start to see 1. greater yields from my Victron MTTP solar set up because demand was higher & 2. greater overnight discharge numbers via the Smart Meter.

Or is it more involved than that & if so, what is involved?*

*or do I not need to know this

Just connect the new fridge to existing old fridge DC wiring. Ask your pro to connect pretzels.

[GeorgeRa]

Originally Posted by themexicandoctor

And that the only time the Inverter would be involved is when I am connected to Shore Power or the Generator was running, whether I had the AC Option or not.

Is this correct?

Inverter converts DC to AC. It shouldn't have anything to do with a DC fridge. Even if you have AC/DC fridge DC connection will run at lower energy demand.

[Fogey]

Originally Posted by themexicandoctor

Just saw this link & wanted to get answers from those of you who are far more technically competent whether or not this is a viable option looking at a 2, 5 or 10 year & beyond investment, in a RV.

Perhaps its an ideal option for Van Owners on a budget?

But not RV Owners?

I did not understand the description of the Battery Brand he purchased (probably cheap, low quality compared to Lifelines, etc).

In fact budget might have been his driving factor in his component choices versus the longer term choices RV owners typically make.

And are the rigors of the road the reason we don't see longer term comparisons between traditional home units & those designed for the RV & Marine needs?

Cheap Electric setup (How and Why) plus what fridge is better #VanLife#CheapElectric#MiniFridge

How depleted were your batteries in one day of use and how often and for how long did you have to run the van engine to recharge?