Question about my 2001 RT-190P Aux. batteries

[1phatred]

Hi! Looking for thoughts on the above. Purchased my sweet beauty 3 yrs ago and use it extensively...all the way to Canadian maritime provinces including Newfoundland AND Labrador, without a speck of troubles en route...
she was a 'trooper'!
Anyhow, I do not boondock and have no desire at my age to even endure the bit of worry/discomfort I MAY encounter doing so. Thus, the TWO auxilliary batteries in the rig were unused, ever. (BTW, BOTH were dead,Dead DEAD and wouldn't take a charge.)
I have had both of them pulled. thinking.. why carry the extra weight, if I've not ever, and don't ever plan to use them to power anything.

But in retrospect, having done that, I'm wondering IF the one that was designed to take power from the running engine and was still connected, is ('was') essential to the operation of something 'camping-wise'...like maybe, the water pump, or LP leak monitor or ....??
Certainly, the removal didn't affect the driving/road running of the rig one whit.
So my long-winded question is...Am I now forced to purchase another battery to replace the dead one, or, given my pattern of use (i.e. routinely connecting to shore power) will I be alright?

[rowiebowie]

I don't have your model, but coach batteries are essential to most of us. In my case, the 12v power runs the CO detector and I think the ac thermostat (at least I have have the battery switch on to run it.

However, if you've gone this long without batteries, then buy battery smoke, CO, and propane leak detectors and carry on.

[booster]

With no coach batteries there should be no lights, water pump, fan, tank monitor or any other power in the coach, unless there is a jumper to the starting battery somewhere, or the engine in running to close the isolator.


I don't know many that could camp that way, kind of like tent camping I suppose.

[1phatred]

Thanks for your speedy reply.
I've replaced the CO/smoke detector with a 10-yr life battery one, but the on order new replacement for the (now defunct) original hardwired LP detector is also intended to be hardwired. (??Thus needing 12V power to function for our safety??). I'm not averse to purchasing a new battery, but that half-defeats my goal of shedding the excess weight of 2 dead (and unused) batteries. What to do?What to do??

[rowiebowie]

Compromise? Just buy one 12v battery. Provided you have a way to keep it charged.

[1phatred]

Thanks! I will. On further thought, I realized AFTER I junked the one, that I'd have no way to power the water pump or other essentials, so will invest on the one 12V replacement. I'm OK with the hook up, as didn't yank the battery cable out...fortunately! DOH! someday I'll think before acting....maybe!
Thanks for your input! Stay well and COVID-free.

[BCam]

Ideally, get a true deep cycle battery, not a dual purpose "RV/Marine Battery", which is a compromise between a starting battery and a deep cycle battery. Here's an example:

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Mighty-Max-...ies/1001401826

Re: Charging, at a minimum I'd recommend some sort of isolator between your chassis and house batteries:

https://www.sportsmobileforum.com/fo...ches-7991.html

A better solution is a DC to DC charger, like this, which will monitor and control the charging voltage from your chassis battery while the alternator is running for optimal charging:

https://www.google.com/shopping/prod...4aAg_pEALw_wcB

And finally, a solar panel (100W minimum) and controller would be the ultimate, in addition to the isolator or DC to DC controller.

[themexicandoctor]

My suggestion; a Lifeline AGM 100amp hour unit is your best investment - with intelligent charging by you, absolutely Bulletproof, Maintenance Free* & with the highest performance available.

*the Maintenance is the following recommended charging guidelines.

Or like many people here who might thrash the batteries without care, a wet cell Interstate or a Optima Blue Top AGM, etc that you can return to your retailer every year & get a replacement due to poor performance.

Johnson Controls owns both Interstate & Optima.

[1phatred]

Thanks extended to you, and to all others who made suggestions. I've now purchased another 12V deep cycle marine battery, to ameliorate my silly, silly earlier act. At my age, you'd think I'd have learned to think before acting on impulse! Too late now!
Cheers and happy trails to all!

[themexicandoctor]

Don't think of yourself as Silly, RV Ownership the moment you put the key in the ignition & leave the seller's property, is all about having to learn about everyday items we take for granted all over again.

And Wisdom only comes from making those uneducated decisions that don't work under normal conditions.

Give yourself 5 years until you feel comfortable, 2001 units are very simple compared to 2021 models but with Roadtreks, I believe they made them better back then, when the Family ran the company.

The only challenge, the 20 years of use.

Owning an RV is like the Chinese Proverbs around Turmoil & Moments of Joy; May live an interesting Life ...

[themexicandoctor]

And do not take any notice of the 4 IDIOT Lights on the Roadtrek display, invest in a Victron BMV712 Smart Meter.

What make & model marine battery did you invest in?

[1phatred]

This one seemed adequate for my use pattern Hopefully
Kirkland Signature Marine Battery (I've read that Costco (Canada) Marine Batteries are made by 'INTERSTATE' (Johnson Controls)

Blurb below is from Costco website:
Group Size: 24DC
Marine/RV Batteries
These batteries have starting power, plus the ability to power the many creature comforts in today's boats and RVs. In addition, these batteries have thicker lead plates and typically have both threaded posts as well as the standard SAE automotive posts to connect to the vehicle's battery cables.

Heavy-duty plates designed to deliver greater cycle life
Maximum power to run trolling motor, fish locators, running lights, radio and power motor lifts
Corrosion-resistant combination post and study terminals offer versatility and quick-connect/disconnect for accessories

Battery Specifications:
Cold Cranking Amps – 550
Cranking Amps – 685
Reserve Capacity – 140
Amp Hours – 95
Costco offers a complete line of deep-cycle batteries to fit all of your marine and RV needs. The marine starting battery is designed to deliver bursts of engine starting power to get the boat out on the water faster. The deep-cycle marine batteries deliver the power needed to handle all of the boating and RV accessories, ensuring consistent power through the entire season. Kirkland Signature marine batteries offer a maintenance-free design.



Thanks for your follow up

[BCam]

You'll be OK, I used them for years, but next time think "true deep cycle".

[themexicandoctor]

The Positives;

You purchased from Costco who have a great return policy.

You paid $78 for a battery that normally retails around $145.

In a year it will be running like a Old Dog & you can get a Fresh Dog, no charge.

Negatives;

The first is my fault, I should have educated you about Johnson Batteries & their cuurent Optima line.

They are NO GOOD.

I found this out at the start of my first hot summer with the new rig & I thought it prudent to do away with the 7 year old Trojan (it was discolored & beat up I never knew the manufacturer but presume it was a Trojan because that was the standard unit went into a 2005).

Within a few days I had battery problems with the new Interstate Deep Cycle unit, only to discover the whole of the US was having the same issue with certain batches. Then I went to the Optimas, still the same problems.

And I used to use Optima starting batteries in all of my vehicles until 2011.

Optima had a much better name back then until Johnson purchased them & started having all manufacturing done in Mexico.

Whether its the plants down there, the lack of investment from Johnson or both, they are a shadow of what they once were.

I know all this because my friend's run Interstate in a 1/3rd of the country - they cannot give me a free Optima or Interstate, not worth the hassle.

You are not a Full Time Liveaboard like myself so you don't have such a great need but at the same time, occasional use of poor quality battery, leads to its own problems.

If you were to invest in even a Single Solar Panel, its best to dump the Costco baytery & invest in an AGM Battery like a Lifeline Group 27 or 31, 12 volt, whatever will fit.

I use Odyssey Extreme Batteries only, about $345 - 295 for my starter batteries.

[themexicandoctor]

BCAM,

What is the secret sauce to keeping your batteries in a state of high performance in case 1phatred wants to keeps hers?

[1phatred]

Yes! Tks 'mexicandoctor'!!. ...I should have followed up on this. Tks for posting.

Since the battery issue has been ?'solved'?, I've another question.

My 2001 190P manual speaks to dual fresh water tanks.
One is gravity-filled via the aperture on the rear (passenger) door opening. This is the one I've used since ownership.
There is apparently another tank which is identified as 'a separate water system for use in sub-moderate freezing conditions' and 'in winter mode'.
I see nowhere in the schematic sketch that the two tanks communicate with each other ..i.e. filling the rear tank will automatically fill the forward, smaller tank.
So, I assume that in order to fill the one positioned forward I am to use the 'city water' connection located near the outdoor shower operating valves.

BUT....in using that connection, will the rear fresh water tank be filled by retrograde? I cannot see how.

BTW, having driven 'Phyllis' extensively in the 3 yr ownership, I've never consciously filled the front, smaller (under the driver's seat area) tank.
It would happy me to learn it was filling automatically, but doubt that happy happenstance. :-/
Could someone please clarify for my final edification. I've found the manual generally not specific enough for 'newbie's.
Thanks again for your patience. You are a great group!