North Florida newbie

[manoverboard]

Greetings all!

We just adopted a 2010 Roadtrek 190 Popular, and excited to join 'the Family'

I am positive I will have many questions in the future.

[sallyntn]

Welcome to the Roadtrek family!

I purchased my Roadtrek 3 years ago and have found valuable information specific to Roadtreks by joining Roadtrek International. Their "CyberRally" is a member based email service discussing maintenance, travel, parts availability, etc. Along with this RV Life Class B Forum, I've found many helpful suggestions and answers to the questions and concerns I've had from more experienced owners/campers.

Have fun traveling and camping!

[mkguitar]

Hello and Welcome


the R/T uses many components from suburban and dometic which are common to other brands of RV


the chev chassis too
( very possibly your chassis is a 2009 model year- this can be ascertained with the Chevrolet vin tag, could be important when ordering parts- this "1 year older" is common )


if you are new to RV'ing- I suggest "practice camping" in the driveway to get familiar with all the systems


that way if you run down all your power ( for example) it's an easy fix, you have access to all your tools, manuals and the internet - things you may not have in a campsite


cheers, Mike

[manoverboard]

Thanks sallyntn and mkguitar for your insights. I will definitely use these forums for learning how the Roadtrek operates.
I had been camping 'vanlife' for the past 5 years in a 2002 express window van, converted with a sink, bed and portable-potty.
As I am getting older, I need to be able to stand up inside the van to do the simple things like getting changed. My old knees are giving out.....
I've already taken a small trip with the RT, and love it!

[mkguitar]

2 big lessons I learned...


If ( or when) your accidently run down the "house" battery - the low voltage/high amperage may pop your 12 Volt DC breakers: little black cubes about 1" x .75"- the reset is a little tab which will stick out the side it may be red or black)
* a low battery may also cause your detectors to sound alarm!



if your AC outlets don't work, check for a tripped GFCI in the galley or the toilet by the sink


and 3rd- meter, or test the power at campground pedestals before plugging in


4th...many of the detectors have a life cycle- check yours for expiration dates.


mike

[manoverboard]

Thanks mkguitar for all your helpful tips.

Already had the low voltage making the CO detector sound off. Thought there was too much CO in the RT from me working inside. Then miraculously stopped when batteries were charged. Will check them for expiration dates.

How do I check the campground pedestal power? 2 leads checking 3 prongs?

Also, in my trolling of this Forum, I see you have helped a lot of people with your knowledge. Congratulations!

[mkguitar]

if you know how to use a meter:


on the 30 amp outlet the round socket is ground


the lower left is HOT


the lower right is Neutral
-------

on a 15 amp outlet ( like we have at home)


the U shape is ground


the short slot is HOT


the long slot is Neutral


----------------------------



Hot to Neutral should be 110~125 volts


Hot to ground should be same figure as above * or up to 5 volts lower, but never higher



Neutral to ground should be less than 5 volts- 0 is better


----------------------------


if you don't have a meter you can buy a test plug and use it with an adapter for 30A outlets ( also handy to test GFCI and circuit breakers)


https://www.lowes.com/pd/Kobalt-Digi...B&gclsrc=aw.ds


or



https://www.amazon.com/Receptacle-El...88&sr=8-7&th=1




I carry a meter for the AC and the DC stuff we encounter, but usually I use my test plug at campground and resort to meter if I see an anomaly




campground pedestals seem to get backed into often and campers often prop them up with rocks and drive away


cheers, Mike

[manoverboard]

Thanks for the explanation, Mike.

I do have a meter, just wasn't sure of the test procedure steps! This really clarified it for me.