New to RVs and Hopeful Warp Core RoadTrekkers

[cruising7388]

Originally Posted by WingedRyno

Somebody said it meant the dealer wouldn't get any units "like" ours delivered until ours was delivered. FWIW.

It is late enough in this year that you may be able to have your coach built as a 2018 model although the chassis will most likely be a 2017 or even 2016.

[WingedRyno]

Originally Posted by cruising7388

It is late enough in this year that you may be able to have your coach built as a 2018 model although the chassis will most likely be a 2017 or even 2016.

That's what they're saying. 2018 coach, 2017 chasis. I suppose that means they'll use their latest and greatest components and things they've learned from feedback they've gotten from others. Definitely looking forward to it. We're making plans to move out of our place and rent it out and take the RT on the road for six months straight testing it out.

[B Eventually]

Originally Posted by WingedRyno

That's what they're saying. 2018 coach, 2017 chasis. I suppose that means they'll use their latest and greatest components and things they've learned from feedback they've gotten from others. Definitely looking forward to it. We're making plans to move out of our place and rent it out and take the RT on the road for six months straight testing it out.

Do you have a plan for where you'll live when the MH is in the shop for 2-3 months? I was just talking to someone the other day about his busted AC. The AC manufacturer told him he had to have a dealership handle the repair and local dealerships were going to take weeks before they got around to testing and then fixing/replacing it so he's replacing it himself. Repairs like that are tricky enough when you have a garage + skills. I can't imagine repairing it while boon docking or living in an RV park far from home.

[BBQ]

Originally Posted by B Eventually

Do you have a plan for where you'll live when the MH is in the shop for 2-3 months?

...

[B Eventually]

Originally Posted by BBQ

.

BBQ, there's been 7 posts to this thread since your last one. Which one are you responding to?

[BBQ]

Originally Posted by B Eventually

BBQ, there's been 7 posts to this thread since your last one. Which one are you responding to?

added quote.

THank you.

[WingedRyno]

Thinking about running a pole along the driver side top (paralleling the awning) and putting a custom solar panel on it that swivels and locks to the side of the van (just above the side windows so it doesn't block the window view). Thinking a custom panel of about 20" by 20 feet would produce roughly 500W of power in addition to the OEM 600W.

Has anybody looked closely at the OEM solar on a RT? I'm assuming the panels are wired in series and lack DC optimizers (so shade on one panel would likely have a real impact on total production). Wondering how hard it would be to add DC optimizers to the panels and wondering if the OEM solar charger can handle nearly doubling the solar input. Anybody messed around with this?

[BBQ]

Originally Posted by WingedRyno

Thinking about running a pole along the driver side top (paralleling the awning) and putting a custom solar panel on it that swivels and locks to the side of the van (just above the side windows so it doesn't block the window view). Thinking a custom panel of about 20" by 20 feet would produce roughly 500W of power in addition to the OEM 600W.

Has anybody looked closely at the OEM solar on a RT? I'm assuming the panels are wired in series and lack DC optimizers (so shade on one panel would likely have a real impact on total production). Wondering how hard it would be to add DC optimizers to the panels and wondering if the OEM solar charger can handle nearly doubling the solar input. Anybody messed around with this?

LOL good that you ask.

RT are pathetic amateurs when it comes to solar.

One guy's CS with mega Li and a roof full of panels were not getting the power he expected. Repeated dealer and factory intervention did not improve things. So he hired an independent technician to look the thing over. It turns out that the multiple panels of various sizes were not wired in a balanced configuration. The technician added another panel to the mix so that the volt/watts were balanced. He says he can now boondock for up to 5 days vs the 2 days before the rewire.

[Davydd]

You most likely will shade your rooftop panels and trade 500 watts for 600 useless watts.

[GeorgeRa]

Originally Posted by WingedRyno

Thinking about running a pole along the driver side top (paralleling the awning) and putting a custom solar panel on it that swivels and locks to the side of the van (just above the side windows so it doesn't block the window view). Thinking a custom panel of about 20" by 20 feet would produce roughly 500W of power in addition to the OEM 600W..................

If I understand you correctly this additional solar panel would be like an awning fold down for travel and fold up to horizontal position of harvesting, like a roof extension. At the length of 20’ there would need to be a few hinges. It should work, but mechanical design could be very challenging and cost of none standard 20” could be prohibitively expensive.

If I have to do my solar again (I could redo mine) I would contemplate using side to side telescoping stacked double panels. For driving position only the upper panels would harvest, for example in my case 3x100W, for campsite harvesting I would “telescope” out to each side ending up with 6x100W. 8020 company have aluminum profiles and other fixtures which could be used to design this type of “a double decker” PV panels system. My PV panles are mounted using 8020 extrusions. In my case I would need to slide out to the side about 24”, very doable, to clear potential side to side shadowing.

Another option is using wind turbine, permanently mounted telescoping mast and turbine lifted up for harvesting and anchored to the ground to eliminate vibration. This would be my option to diversify charging for different weather conditions.

[WingedRyno]

Originally Posted by Davydd

You most likely will shade your rooftop panels and trade 500 watts for 600 useless watts.

Does Advanced install DC optimizers to take care of the shading loss issues? One per panel should cut down on shading effects I would think.

[BBQ]

.

If you are planning to do all that mod,

I would have bought a Winnebago ERA.

The interior is far better than RT.
The price is good. (the street price is 25%~30% below MSRP)

The best part is, it has an inexpensive low-tech AGM battery/solar system.

ie. you can rip them all out, and throw them away without feeling any pain.

With the money you saved on the initial price, you could afford to hire a Li/solar specialist to design and build a system of your dream. And the total price will still be cheaper than the long suffering RT warp drive.


Just my 2 cents
YMMV

[Davydd]

Originally Posted by WingedRyno

Does Advanced install DC optimizers to take care of the shading loss issues? One per panel should cut down on shading effects I would think.

Yes. My three solar panels are each zoned in half so that partial shade will not effect the whole panels performance. But even if you could do that, and I doubt, but don't know, that Roadtrek does it you would still trade shade from the upright panels that are optimized for the sun.

Each panel in turn on my Advanced RV has its own MPPT controller. I don't know what you mean by DC optimizers.

Roadtrek has maximized the available roof area with 600 watts. They used to get more by eliminating the rooftop air conditioner with a split system but seemingly abandoned that effort. Advanced RV built a 1200 watt assembly for one customer that was built on a structural platform above all the rooftop equipment. That was one of a kind.

[B Eventually]

Originally Posted by Davydd

They used to get more by eliminating the rooftop air conditioner with a split system but seemingly abandoned that effort.

That's disappointing. If ARV can't improve on the traditional deafening overhead AC yet, it's probably not possible or at least the tradeoffs don't make sense for most customers.

[GeorgeRa]

I have seen one of these in action, very quiet but 230V, I hope Truma will decide to bring it to NA. Onan 2500 LPG should have enough oomph to start. https://www.truma.com/int/en/air-con...ng-systems.php

[cruising7388]

Originally Posted by WingedRyno

That's what they're saying. 2018 coach, 2017 chasis. I suppose that means they'll use their latest and greatest components and things they've learned from feedback they've gotten from others. Definitely looking forward to it. We're making plans to move out of our place and rent it out and take the RT on the road for six months straight testing it out.

What may be the latest but not so greatest is the battery charging capacity which was originally designed for a 200 AH battery which is no longer offered. So, for battery capacities ranging from 400 AH to 1600 AH, you are going to get the same charge capacity from both the Nations alternator and the shore side battery charger. Consequently. the alternator will be delivering pedal to the metal for an extended period compared to the typically supplied 400 AH setup and with a discharged 1600 AH warp core, the shore side charger is going to run full tilt for quite a while to provide a full recharge.

[WingedRyno]

Originally Posted by cruising7388

What may be the latest but not so greatest is the battery charging capacity which was originally designed for a 200 AH battery which is no longer offered. So, for battery capacities ranging from 400 AH to 1600 AH, you are going to get the same charge capacity from both the Nations alternator and the shore side battery charger. Consequently. the alternator will be delivering pedal to the metal for an extended period compared to the typically supplied 400 AH setup and with a discharged 1600 AH warp core, the shore side charger is going to run full tilt for quite a while to provide a full recharge.

The rule of thumb we were told is 45-60 mins per 200AH battery while driving to charge them from 20% to 100%. So 8 hours of driving to fill em up is what we're expecting.

[WingedRyno]

Originally Posted by Davydd

Yes. My three solar panels are each zoned in half so that partial shade will not effect the whole panels performance. But even if you could do that, and I doubt, but don't know, that Roadtrek does it you would still trade shade from the upright panels that are optimized for the sun.

Each panel in turn on my Advanced RV has its own MPPT controller. I don't know what you mean by DC optimizers.

Roadtrek has maximized the available roof area with 600 watts. They used to get more by eliminating the rooftop air conditioner with a split system but seemingly abandoned that effort. Advanced RV built a 1200 watt assembly for one customer that was built on a structural platform above all the rooftop equipment. That was one of a kind.

I think having a charge controller per panel as you have accomplishes the same thing as having DC optimizers.

My understanding is that RT offers the undermount A/C for warp core models so that the A/C doesn't shade the panels up top and they can fit 600W up there.

[markopolo]

Originally Posted by WingedRyno

The rule of thumb we were told is 45-60 mins per 200AH battery while driving to charge them from 20% to 100%. So 8 hours of driving to fill em up is what we're expecting.

Do you have to remember to turn on all 8 modules before driving if you want them to charge or is that automatically controlled? If not automatic, if it is only a 2 hour drive how many modules would you turn on? Do you have to keep track of which modules were used last? Will you have some sort of usage rotation in place so that the banks get somewhat equal use?

Then I guess when you stop driving you have to remember to turn some modules off.

[BBQ]

.

Whoever came up with this "Warp Drive" marketing moniker should get a medal.

The more questions you ask, the more interesting it gets.