New to RVs and Hopeful Warp Core RoadTrekkers

[booster]

I think what we run across, is that with it in recirc, we can use a substantially lower fan speed, and the evaporator is running at lower capacity to keep the same temp, so the dehumidification is less on recirc. If you had a higher fan speed, it would likely dehumidify more. We rarely need to use more the low speed fan.

[avanti]

Just remember that on recirc, you are not bringing fresh air into the cabin. I think that that is the reason the systems are set up to discourage that mode. Modern vehicles are pretty tight when it comes to air leaks. They typically have flaps somewhere that let air out but not in.

[cruising7388]

Originally Posted by Bud

"Now that is weird, IMO. We use ours on recirc almost all the time. It makes for less humidity and dust coming in and really reduces the duty cycle on the compressor."

I use recirculate in the New Orleans area, but Not when traveling in a dry climate as would have even a more bloody nose, dryness.

My 2013 Honda Accord recirculate or outside is automatic so I suppose it has a humidity sensor?

Bud

If you're recirculating air in a closed environment in which you are are living and breathing, while you may end up with less dust, how can you end up with less humidity?

[Bud]

Originally Posted by cruising7388

If you're recirculating air in a closed environment in which you are are living and breathing, while you may end up with less dust, how can you end up with less humidity?

Same way as the dust cruising7388. Recirculate stops bringing in nearly as much humidity air.

I don't think that there are systems that cut off all the fresh air from outside for several reasons. Put 4 persons in a passenger car for hours with less o2, grogginess...... Also the co potential...... I would guess that if you turn off the fan, fresh air will still enter while driving. One of my cars had the fan stay on low even though it said off. There was no off.

Bud

[booster]

Originally Posted by cruising7388

If you're recirculating air in a closed environment in which you are are living and breathing, while you may end up with less dust, how can you end up with less humidity?

The air conditioning is variable output by cycling the compressor, keeping the evaporator at nearly the same temp all the time to have the same exit air temperature cabin. If you have less humidity and temp to remove, like you would on recirc, the compressor runs less to keep the evaporator cool, because the total btu removed is lower. You then just run a lower fan speed instead of moving the temp control knob and mixing in heated air from outside or inside. Less airflow at the same temp will reduce how much humidity it will take out at any given time period. Assuming some air infiltration bringing in air, and a couple of heavy breathes, the humidity seems to stay plenty high with our Chevy in the dry but hot areas. Of course you could also mix the warm heated air to raise the discharge temp to the van, which would also reduce the amount of air going through the evaporator, removing less humidity, regardless if it was inside or outside air. That is why the AC is the most fuel efficient when on the lowest temp setting, regardless of where the air is coming from. Unfortunately a lot of the newer temp controls do their own blending of hot and cold based on inside the vehicle temp, so you have to be able to get a low enough fan speed to basically have the AC just keeping up at the temp you want, so all the air is going through the evaporator.

[cruising7388]

Originally Posted by WingedRyno

Silver ice

Do you have the adjustable high idle feature?

[WingedRyno]

Originally Posted by cruising7388

Do you have the adjustable high idle feature?

I'm not sure yet. Dealer said I did, but I haven't dug into that yet.

[Davydd]

Originally Posted by WingedRyno

I'm not sure yet. Dealer said I did, but I haven't dug into that yet.

It's a Mercedes Benz option that should appear on your MB window sticker if you had one. It is a $635 add. Normal key start idle is about 800 rpms. The high idle package kick it up to about 1200 rpms. I never read that Roadtrek provided that option and if you didn't get Voltstart installed there would be no reason to do so anyway.

[cruising7388]

Originally Posted by WingedRyno

I'm not sure yet. Dealer said I did, but I haven't dug into that yet.

If you have it it looks like it's on the dashboard close to the driver door. It's displayed around 5:30 in the utube.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YtUbw3wF7t8

[cruising7388]

Originally Posted by Davydd

It's a Mercedes Benz option that should appear on your MB window sticker if you had one. It is a $635 add. Normal key start idle is about 800 rpms. The high idle package kick it up to about 1200 rpms. I never read that Roadtrek provided that option and if you didn't get Voltstart installed there would be no reason to do so anyway.

I think MB offers two high idle options and RT is using the adjustable one. Although it's of most use in the lithium equipped coaches to help ward off the Voltstart/AC death spiral, I wouldn't be surprised if it ends up as standard equipment for all of their Sprinters.

[Bud]

Me, I have an inexpensive Express Van, so just a stick to choose the idle speed - about 1000 rpm per Mr. booster. Well, until booster publishes an update.

Bud

[Davydd]

Originally Posted by cruising7388

I think MB offers two high idle options and RT is using the adjustable one. Although it's of most use in the lithium equipped coaches to help ward off the Voltstart/AC death spiral, I wouldn't be surprised if it ends up as standard equipment for all of their Sprinters.

New I guess for 2018. I have a fixed high idle package that can be started automatically through Silverleaf controls at any programmed SOC of the battery, manually by the MB key fob or security Drone fob or remotely through my iPhone Drone app. Their are more sophisticated controls on Silverleaf where you can lock out Auto Startup say from 10 PM to 7 Am to honor quiet hours in a campground or even exercise it on a pre-programmed basis.

In that video it appears that adjustable is really just a user controlled button on the dash for either on or off. I was assuming adjustable meant setting the idle as in 1000, 1100, 1200 rpms, etc.

[WingedRyno]

So it turns out this Sprinter does have the adjustable idle speed. It's called ADR (working speed governor) and there are three buttons on the left. One switches the system on (if you're stationary and the parking brake is on) and then idle up and idle down. Normal idle on mine is 650. Pressing the increase button I got it up to 1800 and decided that was enough. It does make a nice difference with the GU charging the lithium.

[cruising7388]

Originally Posted by Davydd

In that video it appears that adjustable is really just a user controlled button on the dash for either on or off. I was assuming adjustable meant setting the idle as in 1000, 1100, 1200 rpms, etc.

It looked to me like you could ramp it up and down.

[cruising7388]

Originally Posted by WingedRyno

So it turns out this Sprinter does have the adjustable idle speed. It's called ADR (working speed governor) and there are three buttons on the left. One switches the system on (if you're stationary and the parking brake is on) and then idle up and idle down. Normal idle on mine is 650. Pressing the increase button I got it up to 1800 and decided that was enough. It does make a nice difference with the GU charging the lithium.

It's a real plus, particularly with a 1600ah battery bank. What does your documentation show for model year and chassis year?

[WingedRyno]

Originally Posted by cruising7388

It's a real plus, particularly with a 1600ah battery bank. What does your documentation show for model year and chassis year?

Chasis year 2017, Model year 2018

[Davydd]

Originally Posted by cruising7388

It looked to me like you could ramp it up and down.

Yes, WingedRyno confirmed it.

[WingedRyno]

Boondocked at Wally World last night, chillin' at a park right now. Had to run all kinds of errands related to moving out of our condo and getting it ready to rent out.

I'm still working on the A/C test but I strongly suspect it's not up to specs, I just haven't found the specs yet. But I cannot imagine it's within them.

I'm still trying to figure out the subtle art of black tank dumping. I can't seem to empty the tank all the way. Although waiting until it's at least 2/3 full does seem to help but I'm not sure if I'm stopping before it's done and not judging the sound correctly or what. Got it down to 1/3 empty at any rate.

Finally got the reflectix up but it's still hot in the van. While at Wally World the van got up to 102F (it was in the high 80s low 90s outside) and I used up two EcoTreks with the A/C on part of the time to try to keep cool.

We have a week of cool weather starting tomorrow so I'm really looking forward to that. I love the lithium!

Really enjoying this thing and can't wait to get it set up just right and the A/C fixed and then pick up the wife when her reserve duty is done so we can full time and go enjoy nature. What a great way to live!

[avanti]

Originally Posted by WingedRyno

I'm still trying to figure out the subtle art of black tank dumping. I can't seem to empty the tank all the way. Although waiting until it's at least 2/3 full does seem to help but I'm not sure if I'm stopping before it's done and not judging the sound correctly or what. Got it down to 1/3 empty at any rate.

It is really helpful to have a clear segment somewhere in the dump chain. There are various fittings that make this possible. What is appropriate is specific to your particular setup.

[Davydd]

Tank gauges are notoriously inaccurate. If you have a macerator you can tell from experience by sound if you emptied the tanks, or just check the outlet for discharge. It it sputters it is nearly empty. I don't worry about emptying it out all the way since I still want liquid in the bottom of the tank.