New to RVs and Hopeful Warp Core RoadTrekkers

[gerrym51]

I don't have ecotreks. However i have read enough posts about it that one thing i know-trying to judge lithium using AGM formulas is problematic.

without a true SOC device like in ARV's it's pointless

[Davydd]

Originally Posted by BBQ

Did you order the high-idle option?

IIRC I think you need it if you require regular GU operation.

I didn't think Roadtrek installs the high-idle option.

[BBQ]

Originally Posted by Davydd

I didn't think Roadtrek installs the high-idle option.

There is always the after-market redneck version.

[markopolo]

Originally Posted by gerrym51

I don't have ecotreks. However i have read enough posts about it that one thing i know-trying to judge lithium using AGM formulas is problematic.

without a true SOC device like in ARV's it's pointless

An ammeter would explain what is going on.
13.2V at 120 amps = heavy load, alternator working hard, trying to keep up.
13.2V at 10 amps = light load, alternator working easy, regulator still keeping it in float mode.

[WingedRyno]

Found the Balmar under the hood but it has no display with shore power or with the engine running. Gonna try changing out the 1 amp fuse with a 10 amp even though it doesn't look like the 1 amp fuse is blown. Hopefully this is the quick fix to the GU issue.

[WingedRyno]

10 amp fuse didn't change anything. Balmar LCDs are not showing anything. So I'm guessing for some reason the Balmar isn't getting power and thus the GU is not supplying charge.

[avanti]

Originally Posted by cruising7388

I would be reluctant to tinker with the program which if discovered in a warranty claim would undoubtedly void the warranty.

Originally Posted by WingedRyno

Sprinter manual seems to suggest that changing engine power settings will void the warranty.

My primary mission in life is to kill all this specious Internet talk about various things "voiding your warranty". In the US (at least), this statement is always false. NOTHING can "void" your warranty--certainly not tinkering by the owner of a vehicle. You will not find such a claim in the Sprinter Warranty book. You MIGHT find one in RoadTrek's literature, but if you do, it is BS.

Now, if your tinkering ACTUALLY CAUSES DAMAGE, and if the OEM can prove it, then the warranty will not cover that particular damage. That is because your warranty doesn't cover such damage. But, all warranty coverage remains intact, by federal law. Moreover, the burden of proof is on the OEM, not you.

I am NOT saying that you should tinker with things you don't understand. But the reason you should not do this is because you might break something that the OEM won't have to fix. It has NOTHING to do with your warranty. So, if you DO know what you are doing and are so inclined, then hack away.

[avanti]

Originally Posted by WingedRyno

10 amp fuse didn't change anything. Balmar LCDs are not showing anything. So I'm guessing for some reason the Balmar isn't getting power and thus the GU is not supplying charge.

That is certainly your problem. The display on a functioning Balmar regulator ALWAYS shows a sequence of flashing codes.

[WingedRyno]

Originally Posted by avanti

NOTHING can "void" your warranty--certainly not tinkering by the owner of a vehicle. You will not find such a claim in the Sprinter Warranty book.

I found it in the Sprinter owner's manual but haven't yet looked at the warranty book.

[WingedRyno]

Originally Posted by avanti

That is certainly your problem. The display on a functioning Balmar regulator ALWAYS shows a sequence of flashing codes.

That's good to know, thank you.

[booster]

Doesn't the Balmar also have a 15 amp fuse for its main power, also? With no lights on at all, that would be a likely culprit.

[gerrym51]

since everybody has an opinion -including me-it's new-take it back to the dealer-point out no lights functioning on Balmar. Make them explain why or make them call roadtrek and explain why.

I did read that Roadtrek puts a protective coating on it. Maybe that fades the lights. I don't know

[WingedRyno]

Originally Posted by gerrym51

since everybody has an opinion -including me-it's new-take it back to the dealer-point out no lights functioning on Balmar. Make them explain why or make them call roadtrek and explain why.

I did read that Roadtrek puts a protective coating on it. Maybe that fades the lights. I don't know

The dealer is working on it right now. Fingers crossed they get it fixed...

[cruising7388]

Originally Posted by gregmchugh

Not sure what you are saying?

Red charge terminal, usually connected to the GU, solar charge controller, and the auxiliary AGM battery. Some vans have been delivered with the solar charge controller on the load terminal and in some cases RT has had this changed to the charge side.

Red load terminal, usually connected to the inverter/charger and the 12v power distribution with the battery disconnect controlling some or all of the items connected to this terminal. There are some vans that have been reported to have some items hard wired to the load side before the battery disconnect.

Is the solar controller hard wired to the batteries independently of the main disconnect switch?

[avanti]

Originally Posted by WingedRyno

I found it in the Sprinter owner's manual but haven't yet looked at the warranty book.

You will find wording cleverly crafted to SUGGEST that bad things will happen if you do various things that MB doesn't like (such as doing your own oil changes instead of sending mountains of money to a dealer, for example). But I wager you will not find clear statements to that effect, since such claims would be illegal. The little guys don't understand (or perhaps care). But MB certainly does.

[cruising7388]

Originally Posted by BBQ

Did you order the high-idle option?

IIRC I think you need it if you require regular GU operation.

The Roadtrek high idle feature is standard equipment. It looks suspiciously like a wooden stick.

[WingedRyno]

Originally Posted by cruising7388

Is the solar controller hard wired to the batteries independently of the main disconnect switch?

I'm not sure about this. But I do know that when all 8 modules were offline due to BMS and I could not get shore power or GU to power the coach (now I realize that perhaps the GU was just not working since we discovered the Balmar is not powered) -- in that case both solar controllers were still blinking away. They were the only things showing any power in the coach.

[cruising7388]

Originally Posted by WingedRyno

Found the Balmar under the hood but it has no display with shore power or with the engine running. Gonna try changing out the 1 amp fuse with a 10 amp even though it doesn't look like the 1 amp fuse is blown. Hopefully this is the quick fix to the GU issue.

This is perplexing because I believe the manual indicates it should be a ten amp fuse and in a past conversation with Balmar, they told me that the units provided for the Nations alternator were fused for 15 amps.

But in any event, that fuse is in the feeder to the alternator field windings. If you are getting no display, it looks like the regulator isn't powering up. Check the power terminal for battery voltage.

[gerrym51]

Originally Posted by WingedRyno

The dealer is working on it right now. Fingers crossed they get it fixed...

Did you ask about the Balmar lights?

[cruising7388]

Originally Posted by Davydd

I didn't think Roadtrek installs the high-idle option.

They don't because the pencil pushers decided not to add a $600 option to the price point. It's unfortunate because a Nations alternator could really use that help. Adding this feature after market is possible but it requires changes to the PCM which skyrockets the cost.