new owner of 1996 roadtrek 210 popular here

[milesunderworld]

hi!

call me Hank. this forum rules everyone here is cool I've learned a lot by checking it out . I just got a 1996 Chevy Roadtrek 210 Popular with decent mileage. It's awesome. Needs some work. Hoping to meet other 90's Chevy Roadtrek 210 Popular owners here to learn some tips and mods and to help me with finding the replacement parts I need!

i need help with finding some new tires, the michelin xps rib gets high marks in this forum but they are so expensive..... i don't want to skimp on the tires so if it's the best option maybe I'll have to ..

anyway nice to meet everyone. I am class B proud! i enjoy camping and really can't wait to get my RT in shape.

-Hank

[mkguitar]

Hi Hank,


welcome


I don;t have same as you- I have a 2006 PleasureWay on a 2005 Chev chassis
( common the RV model year is 1 later than chassis- good to know when looking for chevy parts)


I have posted recently on my tire search and end result, and also on replacing my seat base foam, and lubing the seat swivel


you can search for those if you want


Michelin Agilis Cross climate LT245/75R/16 cost me just under $800


cheers, Mike

[rowiebowie]

Originally Posted by milesunderworld

hi!

call me Hank. this forum rules everyone here is cool I've learned a lot by checking it out . I just got a 1996 Chevy Roadtrek 210 Popular with decent mileage. It's awesome. Needs some work. Hoping to meet other 90's Chevy Roadtrek 210 Popular owners here to learn some tips and mods and to help me with finding the replacement parts I need!

i need help with finding some new tires, the michelin xps rib gets high marks in this forum but they are so expensive..... i don't want to skimp on the tires so if it's the best option maybe I'll have to ..

anyway nice to meet everyone. I am class B proud! i enjoy camping and really can't wait to get my RT in shape.

-Hank

Welcome to the forum Hank!

It's not cheap to get the proper load range E tires for your 210. You'll likely spend $600 to $800, so if you can afford the extra $200 get the Michelin Agilis suggested by Mike.

[milesunderworld]

Thanks for your feedback! Intersting... you're saying those Michelin Agilis tires at LT245/75R/16 will fit my 96 RT 210 Popular? I was under the impression I needed LT 225, not LT 245. The tires from the PO that are on there now are also 225

I will look into them!

[milesunderworld]

Oh I see now... They have in my size with the 225. These Agilis CrossClimates are looking like they are getting positive reviews on several sites, and they don't -totally- break the bank and seem to have good on wet roads....can anyone attest to this?

Thanks again you are all really nice to share your thoughts!!

-Hank, 96 Chevy Roadtrek 210 Popular

[SteveJ]

Originally Posted by milesunderworld

Oh I see now... They have in my size with the 225. These Agilis CrossClimates are looking like they are getting positive reviews on several sites, and they don't -totally- break the bank and seem to have good on wet roads....can anyone attest to this?

Thanks again you are all really nice to share your thoughts!!

-Hank, 96 Chevy Roadtrek 210 Popular

Just to be sure you may want to double check the label on the door pillar to verify the correct tire size.

[Ygnacia]

I bought the Michelin Cross Climates for my ‘92 Roadtrek 190 Versatile they’ve been just great. I wanted the best tire I could get, it’s such a heavy vehicle and I want to be safe. The proper tire size is shown inside the door jam of my drivers side door, at least in my Roadtrek.

[Burtwood]

Hi milesunderworld. I own a 1996 Chevy Roadtrek Popular. I have Michelin LT225/75R16XPS RIB LRE FN on it. They have 60,000km on them and you’d swear there is no wear. In 2006 I paid $900CAD for 4 with a mail-in rebate and with that bought the spare. These tires were a smart buy imao. Hope this helps if you haven’t purchased tires yet.

[thomas763]

I also have a 1996 Chevy Roadtrek popular. I have been having trouble with the onan generator. When I push the "start" switch from inside the coach on the panel the generator acts like its going to "run" but then when I remove my finger from the switch the generator turns off on its own.. The same thing happens when I manually try to start it from pushing the switch on the generator. Has anyone on here experienced the same issue and how they mitigated the problem?? Any feedback would be very helpful, thanks

[mkguitar]

Hello and Welcome to the forums.


I know I've seen posts on exactly what you describe.


Said to be low oil level OR bad oil level sensor


in this thread:


https://www.classbforum.com/forums/f...ator-8499.html



Mike

[thomas763]

Thanks MK guitar.. Do you have any idea of were the oil level sensor is located on the generator? I don't see that in the owner's manual?

[hbn7hj]

Also likely it is not producing AC power. No AC, no run, once your finger lets off the start button. Oil level sensor is inside the crankcase.

https://www.flightsystems.com/pdf/on...ting-guide.pdf

Also do a search on Onan troubleshooting manual

[peteco]

A bad voltage regulator can also cause it to not continue running after releasing the start button.

[Burtwood]

Originally Posted by thomas763

I also have a 1996 Chevy Roadtrek popular. I have been having trouble with the onan generator. When I push the "start" switch from inside the coach on the panel the generator acts like its going to "run" but then when I remove my finger from the switch the generator turns off on its own.. The same thing happens when I manually try to start it from pushing the switch on the generator. Has anyone on here experienced the same issue and how they mitigated the problem?? Any feedback would be very helpful, thanks

When I had this problem I simply held the button down at the panel or on board until it starts. If needed, change plug and filters + oil. Many years ago I couldn’t start the genset so dropped it to have look. Turned out to be ‘green death.’ Driving on the salty eastern winter roads caused snow to pile up on the wiring harness which eroded the contacts. Replaced and insulated and away she went. Hope this helps.

[thomas763]

Thanks Burtwood.. Also what is the degree of difficulty in dropping that generator as I think that is the route I'm going to have to go? There is a ****-ton of rust so I'm thinking it's going to be difficult..

[hbn7hj]

The attachment bolts will probably break off. One guy did a step by step drop the generator thread. Maybe he will post the link. Biggest problem is removing the AC line. It detaches at the transfer switch and you will have to pull it through the floor board.

Onan now sells a fuel injected inverter generator to replace it. What you will find is every step along the way will be a pain in the butt starting with replacing the broken bolts.

[thomas763]

Thank you for sharing that info, sounds like I have my hands full with this project.. And by the sound of what you are describing, it may take another person to help me.

[thomas763]

The unfortunate thing is, most RV repair shops won't even touch that old of an RV, at least that is what I'm finding out in San Diego.

[hbn7hj]

Originally Posted by thomas763

The unfortunate thing is, most RV repair shops won't even touch that old of an RV, at least that is what I'm finding out in San Diego.

You wouldn’t want to pay what they would have to charge to just break even on the project. Get the generator out first then decide what you want to do. Go through the learning curve of repairing it yourself, take it to a small engine repair shop that doesn’t have RV in it’s name, or replace it with the new model.

The cheapest way will be to repair it yourself. Along the way consider replacing it with a new, fuel injected, no slip ring (inverter) generator. That is probably the wisest move but $3k is a lot of money.

Look at the bright side, you are going to learn a lot of things you need to know.

The charge for dropping the generator would be pushing $300. You will be well paid. Let us know when you get it out.

New carb is less than $40 on Ebay. Amazon has the fuel pump for less than $50. Bend over for a new voltage regulator. I don’t know any way to beat the $300 for that.

[thomas763]

Your absolutely right..