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08-27-2021, 12:25 AM
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#1
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New Member
Join Date: Aug 2021
Location: British Columbia
Posts: 6
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Getting started with RVing
I have just started looking into RVing. I don't own, and never have owned, an RV. I have decided to get an RV for two main reasons:
1. I want to travel across Canada, BC to NL, stopping for a while and staying with people in a few cities (so want to park on the street outside). 2. I want a vehicle next to my house (not on the street) so that if/when we are told to leave in an hour because of fires or whatever (which seems the new normal) I can do that. I don't own a motor vehicle (I haven't in over 30 years} and that is the reason for reason two. While I don't own a car (my last was a Lada, a Russian made Fiat 124 from the 1960s), I have driven vehicles up to the long school bus size. Reason two is also the reason I need a small (or short) Class B. My parking space is maximum 20 feet and not all that easy to get into.
I would like at least a toilet in the RV (so I don't need to camp/park somewhere with access to a toilet) and a minimalist shower would be nice. Air-conditioning would also be pretty well required (Ontario gets pretty hot in the summer). I'm not much of a DIY guy or an auto mechanic.
I also want something that, if I breakdown in, e.g., northern Ontario, I can't get the parts for to fix it.
Any advice for a newbie would be appreciated.
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08-27-2021, 12:59 AM
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#2
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New Member
Join Date: Jul 2021
Location: Arizona
Posts: 7
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In Same Boat
Sounds similar to our situation at this time. We decided on a Class B because of the small size and ability to go almost anyplace as easy as a regular van or car. Plus we have the bathroom and mini cooking area. We researched for months and am zeroing in on a used Winnebago Travato K or KL model or, a used Coachmen Beyond. We now are deciding if we want a generator of the more expensive lithium battery set up. Does anyone out there have experience with these they can share please?
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08-27-2021, 01:06 AM
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#3
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Platinum Member
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Minnesota
Posts: 12,455
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With parts and universal repairability being big issues, you may want to look at a Chevy based Roadtrek 170 which is on the common Chevy Express van and less than 18' long.
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08-27-2021, 02:40 AM
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#4
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Platinum Member
Join Date: Nov 2014
Location: PHX, AZ
Posts: 2,660
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Hi Bob,
the newer units are often diesel and may have spare parts supply lines reaching across oceans. some of them also have expensive and less flexible energy systems ( some have no propane or no generator)
I have a 2006 PleasureWay Lexor ( built in Sask) on a Chev 3500 chassis repairable anywhere by anyone with parts from any auto parts store
I'm at 19'8" with the spare tire and 9'4" tall, we get about 15 MPG at 110 kph ( put the spare inside temporarily and save 8" )
the advantages of a B are the MPG, ease of parking and ease of driving
have a fridge, 2 burner gas, gas hot water, toilet, shower ( and a 2nd wand outside), a tv, a genny, AC and a microwave. we also carry about 100 litres of water ( and tanks for waste water and toilet)
these features are fairly common to class B's
solar panels on the roof require the van to be parked in the sun.
-we try to go where we don;t need ac, and to park in teh shade
the AC and microwave require the genny running ( we have never actually used ours while camping) or shore power- plugged in at a campground or extension cord to your pal's home - the AC may blow a regular 15 amp breaker though.
I have a 20A for my use and visiting Pals in their RV's
Ontario built Roadtreks are also popular- pre about 2014 the manufacturer was more dependable since then the company changed hands a few times.
the older units can be the 170 referenced by Booster on Chev 2500 w 4.8 liter motor. The 190's will be on the 3500 with the 6.0 ( usually) the popular models usually sleep fore and aft, the versatile models sleep sideways ( I'm too tall for that) R/T's often have a drop floor section for more overhead space...I tripped on the transition when shopping and ruled that out
the best thing is to go look at units, new and used. the more you can look at the better "feel" you will have.
we looked at about 30 units and knew when we saw the right one- there are also plenty of youtube videos from dealers showing features- watch how easily ( or not) the sales person moves around.
in terms of evacuation, you leave basic supplies in the van ready to go and with a full gas tank have a range ( we do) of over 700 km on the 1st tank
budget will be tough as the demand has been super-high with covid, so prices will be abnormally high
( I could sell mine for MORE than I paid in 2015)
cheers, Mike
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08-27-2021, 02:51 AM
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#5
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Platinum Member
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Minnesota
Posts: 12,455
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I must be missing something here. This brochure from 2006 lists the Lexor at 20' 5" which is right about the same as the similar chassis Roadtrek 190.
https://pleasureway.com/wp-content/u...y-Brochure.pdf
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08-27-2021, 03:51 AM
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#6
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Platinum Member
Join Date: Jan 2019
Location: Arizona
Posts: 609
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You are correct, Booster. The Lexor is built on the Express 3500 extended chassis, which is 20'6" in factory form. A continental spare adds about another foot. The number of options under 20', if in fact that is a hard number, is fairly limited. Options with a true enclosed head are even fewer.
The RT170 typically has the toilet-in-a-cabinet setup with a privacy curtain in the aisle and a transverse bed. It was made on both Chevy and Dodge vans. The Chevy is 18’8” (without the spare) and the Dodges are a bit shorter,. They're your best bet on a modest budget.
There are also sub-20' options on the short Sprinter and Transit vans, such as the Winnebago Revel and the Pleasure-Way Ontour 2.0 and Recon. Pricey.
If you have a little wiggle room on the length, then more options open up. The extra length allows for an enclosed wet bath and longways sleeping. We removed the continental spare on our RT190 and stow the spare under the rear seat.
__________________
2014 Roadtrek 190 Popular
2008 Scamp 13
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08-27-2021, 01:24 PM
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#7
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Gold Member
Join Date: Nov 2020
Location: los angeles
Posts: 92
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BobontheRocks
I have just started looking into RVing. I don't own, and never have owned, an RV. I have decided to get an RV for two main reasons:
1. I want to travel across Canada, BC to NL, stopping for a while and staying with people in a few cities (so want to park on the street outside). 2. I want a vehicle next to my house (not on the street) so that if/when we are told to leave in an hour because of fires or whatever (which seems the new normal) I can do that. I don't own a motor vehicle (I haven't in over 30 years} and that is the reason for reason two. While I don't own a car (my last was a Lada, a Russian made Fiat 124 from the 1960s), I have driven vehicles up to the long school bus size. Reason two is also the reason I need a small (or short) Class B. My parking space is maximum 20 feet and not all that easy to get into.
I would like at least a toilet in the RV (so I don't need to camp/park somewhere with access to a toilet) and a minimalist shower would be nice. Air-conditioning would also be pretty well required (Ontario gets pretty hot in the summer). I'm not much of a DIY guy or an auto mechanic.
I also want something that, if I breakdown in, e.g., northern Ontario, I can't get the parts for to fix it.
Any advice for a newbie would be appreciated.
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What is your budget?
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08-27-2021, 04:14 PM
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#8
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Platinum Member
Join Date: Jul 2018
Location: Texas
Posts: 2,651
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HWDean
What is your budget?
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This is a key question.^^^
Since the poster states he/she is not much of a DIY or mechanic, then a newer, lower mile model would decrease the odds of needing repairs. However, my van was 5 yrs old with only 25,000 miles and I've lost count of the services and repairs I've had to do. Not to the chassis; as the Chevy Express has been flawless; but to the coach. I was always handy, and I had to get real handy real fast. Otherwise, my van would have spent weeks or months in dealer repair at a cost of probably 10 thousand dollars in repairs.
As it was, I still spent thousands doing my own labor. Which brings me to my concern of getting the first vehicle in 30 years and layer on top of that all the systems in a class b. Certainly doable, but not something to be taken on lightly withour the financial reserves to keep an rv maintained.
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08-27-2021, 04:53 PM
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#9
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Platinum Member
Join Date: Nov 2014
Location: PHX, AZ
Posts: 2,660
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Quote:
Originally Posted by booster
I must be missing something here. This brochure from 2006 lists the Lexor at 20' 5"
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that could be, the 19'8" came from Santa Monica code enforcement officer
20' is limit for street parking with out a permit
Maybe they did me a favor
mike
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08-27-2021, 05:22 PM
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#10
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New Member
Join Date: Aug 2021
Location: British Columbia
Posts: 6
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What is my budget?
Quote:
Originally Posted by HWDean
What is your budget?
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Up to 100K, obviously prefer less. By going with a used model I am presuming that if I find a Class B won't fit into my lifestyle, I can resell it without taking too much of a financial bath.
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08-27-2021, 06:09 PM
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#11
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New Member
Join Date: Aug 2021
Location: British Columbia
Posts: 6
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Revised budget considerations
Quote:
Originally Posted by BobontheRocks
Up to 100K, obviously prefer less. By going with a used model I am presuming that if I find a Class B won't fit into my lifestyle, I can resell it without taking too much of a financial bath.
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Actually, my real limit is the difference in price between what I might pay for the unit relative what I might reasonably expect to get for it if, as I mentioned, RVing just didn't work for me.
I realize that this is, at best, speculative. But, a unit costing, say, 150K that I could expect to sell within a couple of years for not much less that 140K would be better than an unit costing 80K that I could expect to sell within a couple of years for no more than 50K.
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08-27-2021, 08:03 PM
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#12
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Platinum Member
Join Date: May 2016
Location: LA
Posts: 1,551
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BobontheRocks
Actually, my real limit is the difference in price between what I might pay for the unit relative what I might reasonably expect to get for it if, as I mentioned, RVing just didn't work for me.
I realize that this is, at best, speculative. But, a unit costing, say, 150K that I could expect to sell within a couple of years for not much less that 140K would be better than an unit costing 80K that I could expect to sell within a couple of years for no more than 50K.
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The future value of a B is more speculative than ever before?
I suggest that you do a total and in and out cost, beginning to end estimate of all costs. For example, the difference in sales tax with 150K vs 80K, insurance, Cost of Money, etc.....................
Your application per nights stay is what vs a motel, etc.?
I'm ready to spend the $150, but can't find what I want within 500 miles, more actually. And I can't imagine ordering one. My life expectancy is not compatible.
Have fun shopping.
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08-28-2021, 01:59 AM
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#13
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Gold Member
Join Date: Nov 2020
Location: los angeles
Posts: 92
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BobontheRocks
Up to 100K, obviously prefer less. By going with a used model I am presuming that if I find a Class B won't fit into my lifestyle, I can resell it without taking too much of a financial bath.
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Well, I bought my 2000 Pleasure Way Excel a few months ago for 24K so you are a little out of my league. It too is my first RV and testing the waters. However, up in your range I am fond of the Winnebago Travato 59G -- at least on paper. I like that you can keep the bed made and still have living space.
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08-28-2021, 04:58 AM
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#14
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New Member
Join Date: Aug 2021
Location: British Columbia
Posts: 6
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The irony is that the only reason is that I am in that league is because I haven't owened a motor vehicle in 30 years.
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08-31-2021, 07:03 AM
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#15
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New Member
Join Date: Aug 2021
Location: British Columbia
Posts: 6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rowiebowie
Which brings me to my concern of getting the first vehicle in 30 years and layer on top of that all the systems in a class b. Certainly doable, but not something to be taken on lightly withour the financial reserves to keep an rv maintained.
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I have taken this advice to heart. While it will cost me more, I have decided to go with a new unit. Plus, a closer look at my parking space suggests that as short as possible is best. 20 ft would be very tight. 18 ft would be better. I don't think that I am going to find any used 18 ft with what I want. So I am going with new from a dealer close to me. I am considering a Thor Scope 18M.
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08-31-2021, 06:47 PM
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#16
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Platinum Member
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: MD
Posts: 155
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BobontheRocks
I have taken this advice to heart. While it will cost me more, I have decided to go with a new unit. Plus, a closer look at my parking space suggests that as short as possible is best. 20 ft would be very tight. 18 ft would be better. I don't think that I am going to find any used 18 ft with what I want. So I am going with new from a dealer close to me. I am considering a Thor Scope 18M.
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Looks like a great van for you. We have a similar van (Safari Condo) on the same ProMaster 18' chassis. We love the size that fits easily in a normal parking space and is a dream to drive. It's a huge benefit if you want to include urban areas in your sightseeing. When not camping, we use it as a second car probably at least once a week when one of us needs the car.
I disagree with the others that an RV requires a lot of maintenance (at least until you get to the 10 year mark). Our van is 6 years old, 40,000 miles, and I can't think of a single component that has needed service, and the van has been reliable too. Still, if you're looking for the 18' length, you're better off with a new van, since there aren't that many models out there, and most people are looking for a little more storage space that the 20 or 21' models provide. Another benefit of a new van is that you can get safety features that weren't available a few years ago, like blind spot detection, etc. (I'm not sure what RAM offers these days).
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08-31-2021, 09:57 PM
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#17
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Platinum Member
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: Oklahoma
Posts: 972
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My DIY is on that same PM 136” chassis. A dream to drive. 159,000 miles in six years. Other than regular maintenance:
Oil temperature sensor
Oil cooler
Left headlight assembly
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09-01-2021, 07:48 PM
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#18
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Platinum Member
Join Date: Jul 2018
Location: Texas
Posts: 2,651
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BobontheRocks
I have taken this advice to heart. While it will cost me more, I have decided to go with a new unit. Plus, a closer look at my parking space suggests that as short as possible is best. 20 ft would be very tight. 18 ft would be better. I don't think that I am going to find any used 18 ft with what I want. So I am going with new from a dealer close to me. I am considering a Thor Scope 18M.
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Congrats on the new Scope!
You'll have many modern safety features. Enjoy!
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09-01-2021, 08:19 PM
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#19
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Platinum Member
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: Oklahoma
Posts: 972
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You will love the PM chassis. Reliable and drives better than a car.
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09-01-2021, 09:45 PM
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#20
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New Member
Join Date: Aug 2021
Location: British Columbia
Posts: 6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MsNomer
You will love the PM chassis. Reliable and drives better than a car.
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Certainly better than the Lada.
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