Getting started with RVing

[pacificstar]

We have a Ram Winnebago Solis, its 19'9". This particular one does not have AC however if you get a flat top (without the pop top like we have) you have room for an AC for an after market thing. I wish you all the best!

[RossWilliams]

The advice I got was to buy used because RV's are built, not manufactured, and usually have punch list of fixes that show up in the first year. Obviously used units also depreciate more slowly.

In terms of repairs/parts there are repairs to the vehicle and repairs to the RV. With RV repairs the current shortage seems to be skilled mechanics rather than parts. Getting quick service can be very difficult regardless of parts availability.

Choosing a unit that reduces the likelihood of need for repairs. For instance, getting an all-electric unit eliminates the propane system. One less thing to go wrong. AGM batteries are a simpler technology than lithium which require a battery management system.

With the Mercedes Sprinter chassis there may be problems finding someone to work on it in remote areas for some of the high tech components. But we have put almost 50,000 miles on ours the last two years with no breakdowns or mechanical repairs beyond standard maintenance. Diesels also hold their resale value better and get better mileage. I assume you are not one of those people who drives from a store on one end of the parking lot to a store on the other end. If you are, I would avoid diesel since they are not known for liking that kind of use for multiple short trips. They seem to have many fewer problems when they are only started and driven a handful of times a day.

Since you are planning to spend a lot of time driving, I would suggest you focus on the comfort as a vehicle. The front seat is going to be your living room a lot of the time. So consider the view it gives while driving as well. Almost any B of proper size will give you the basics you require but an upscale chassis like the sprinter is going to be a lot more pleasant while in motion.

Think through the process of stopping and what you will need to do to set up each night. We can stop and get into bed with no further thought. Get a unit that charges the batteries while you drive and provides enough battery storage to get you through a day without recharging. Solar panels add complexity, but they can provide enough juice to keep your basic systems running indefinitely while you are parked somewhere without any shore power.

[Buford Wilson]

I recommend the Roadtrek Zion SRT with AGM house battery. It has everything you listed and it's 19 feet 7 inches long. I had mine for five years and not a single problem. Travelled through Canada and USA several times.

[Pam G]

Originally Posted by BobontheRocks

I have taken this advice to heart. While it will cost me more, I have decided to go with a new unit. Plus, a closer look at my parking space suggests that as short as possible is best. 20 ft would be very tight. 18 ft would be better. I don't think that I am going to find any used 18 ft with what I want. So I am going with new from a dealer close to me. I am considering a Thor Scope 18M.

You're fortunate that you can afford a new RV! Sounds like you've found a good choice. I just wanted to put in a plug for older Class B's. I've owned a 1998 Coach House Wide Body, a 2001 Coach House, and now a 1999 Roadtrek 190 Popular that I've had for 8 years. I had the first Coach House for 5 years until it was totaled in a highway accident. I didn't like the layout with the wet bath and the furnace by the couch in the 2nd Coach House because I had less storage space than the first one, so I sold it after a year. In terms of repairs, I've had the typical vehicle repairs, such as the serpentine belt, alternator, etc. In terms of coach repairs, the propane ignition and something involving charging the coach battery weren't working when I first bought the Roadtrek, probably from it not having been used very much. I've replaced the coach air conditioner, and I've had generators worked on because I haven't run them monthly as I should. I had to have the diode isolator replaced once. I don't think my expenses or repairs have been excessive. I've only owned older vehicles, so I expect some repairs anyway. A friend of mine who has bought 3 brand new Class C's (she trades them in frequently) has had to have more major repairs done on her brand new ones than I've had on mine. In terms of the selling price, people are asking way more now than what I paid for mine 8 years ago and even 14 years ago for my first Coach House. I paid $17,000 for my 1998 Coach House and $20,000 for my 1999 Roadtrek. I have been seeing prices as high as $39,000 for these same models now! I've been telling people for the past few years that I could probably sell my Roadtrek for the same amount I paid for it, based on the prices I've seen on-line. When I totaled my first Coach House after owning it for 5 years, I had no idea what my insurance would give me for it. I was expecting maybe $12,000. They gave me $15,600! I was really happy with that.

[Mars Hotel]

Does anyone have opinions on the benefits of double pane windows vs. single pane related to the interior being quieter??? Looking at both and being told double pane will keep out more noise in the campground but looking to hear what anyone has to say.