wiring diagram for relocated LiFePo4 batteries

[Treker20]

I had originally placed my new Lithiums in the outside battery compartments. Due to due to corrosion on the Cat 5 ports, due to moisture in those compartments, I am relocating the batteries to the inside the of van, under the bed. I want to make some wiring changes to the system and wonder if the experts would mind looking at my diagram to make sure everything is wired correctly. I believe it is, but would like an another opinion. Originally i had everything running to + and - bus bars, but since batteries are closer i have more direct connections to the batteries.

Thanks

Terry.

[booster]

That looks like it would work.

[Treker20]

Originally Posted by booster

That looks like it would work.

Thanks for taking the time to look at this Booster. I did make one change to it. I am running the negative wire from the IN/CH to negative post on Battery #1 instead of battery #2.

[booster]

Originally Posted by Treker20

Thanks for taking the time to look at this Booster. I did make one change to it. I am running the negative wire from the IN/CH to negative post on Battery #1 instead of battery #2.

If you are trying to equalize the cable lengths to get more even charging and discharging, you would normally want all the devie positive cables on one battery and all the negative on the other. Then connections connecting the two battery positives together and two negative together.


If you do what you are planning, then just move the gen start to the other battery (2).

[Treker20]

Originally Posted by booster

If you are trying to equalize the cable lengths to get more even charging and discharging, you would normally want all the devie positive cables on one battery and all the negative on the other. Then connections connecting the two battery positives together and two negative together.


If you do what you are planning, then just move the gen start to the other battery (2).

Booster, is the a problem if I connect the generator start wire to the Positive buss instead of Battery #2?

Normally i only start the generator once a month to excercise it. Would that little use be a problem if i left it on battery #1?

[booster]

Originally Posted by Treker20

Booster, is the a problem if I connect the generator start wire to the Positive buss instead of Battery #2?

Normally i only start the generator once a month to excercise it. Would that little use be a problem if i left it on battery #1?

Having it on the buss would be good. I thought about the rare use also for the generator. It all depends on how often and how much discharge there is. It is certainly not as bad as having everything on that post, and probably minor in the big picture.

[Treker20]

Originally Posted by booster

Having it on the buss would be good. I thought about the rare use also for the generator. It all depends on how often and how much discharge there is. It is certainly not as bad as having everything on that post, and probably minor in the big picture.

Booster, Because of all of the terminals that need to be mounted to the battery, this is what I was going to do. I am using a Blue Sea MRBF dual and single therminal fuse block. The fuse block would be mounted to the Battery post, along with the Generator starter wire and the feeder to the bus bar. On the first fuse post I am putting the wire to the IN/CH. On the second post I am putting the jumper to the 2nd battery. I am also putting a single terminal fuse block on the second battery. I know i don't need to fuse on each one, but because of the difference in height between the fuse on Battery 1 and the post on Battery 2, I did not want to put stress on the battery terminals. With such a short distance and using 2/0 welding cable it is difficult to do an offset on the cable. Maybe i am being too cautious but i had the block left over from my original install. I will also put some wooden spacers under the fuse portion of the terminal fuse block to give it some stability.

Putting the generator wire on the bus bar would make installation a little easier, but I was concerned because the bus bar is fused, and i may end up putting a fuse block close to the battery so it is protected on both ends.

picture of MRBF' is attached. What do you think?

Terry

[booster]

Originally Posted by Treker20

Booster, Because of all of the terminals that need to be mounted to the battery, this is what I was going to do. I am using a Blue Sea MRBF dual and single therminal fuse block. The fuse block would be mounted to the Battery post, along with the Generator starter wire and the feeder to the bus bar. On the first fuse post I am putting the wire to the IN/CH. On the second post I am putting the jumper to the 2nd battery. I am also putting a single terminal fuse block on the second battery. I know i don't need to fuse on each one, but because of the difference in height between the fuse on Battery 1 and the post on Battery 2, I did not want to put stress on the battery terminals. With such a short distance and using 2/0 welding cable it is difficult to do an offset on the cable. Maybe i am being too cautious but i had the block left over from my original install. I will also put some wooden spacers under the fuse portion of the terminal fuse block to give it some stability.

Putting the generator wire on the bus bar would make installation a little easier, but I was concerned because the bus bar is fused, and i may end up putting a fuse block close to the battery so it is protected on both ends.

picture of MRBF' is attached. What do you think?

Terry

I like those fuses and used quite a few of them on our van.


For the connecting cables that are quite short I usually use a bit of a curve in cable by making it a bit longer than if it was the shortest distance. The curve gives it some springy ability and more length to get heights and stuff adjusted.


Using the fine strand extra flex cable can also help a lot in tight spaces. I used a lot of 3/0 on ours.

[Treker20]

Originally Posted by booster

I like those fuses and used quite a few of them on our van.


For the connecting cables that are quite short I usually use a bit of a curve in cable by making it a bit longer than if it was the shortest distance. The curve gives it some springy ability and more length to get heights and stuff adjusted.


Using the fine strand extra flex cable can also help a lot in tight spaces. I used a lot of 3/0 on ours.

I don't think that will work on the positive jumper, there is a very short distance between the connections,, but I will check it out. I did use welding cable for extra flexibility

Does this look the best way to wire it?

[Treker20]

How is the new security system coming?