What Can I Expect

[themexicandoctor]

Originally Posted by Doctor Old

The batteries are Duracell Ultra Deep Cycle BCI Group 31M 105AH SLI31MDC
The fridge is a Nova Kool 6100 Compressor
Using Converter, no inverter

Thanks for all your help. I have been reading and educating myself this a.m. More to learn yet. I did find an adapter and have plugged the rig in. What was surprising was after driving around this morning the one meter read that the battery was full but the Go Power was at about 75% and at 12.7 on the digital. We’ll see what happens

That is a big fridge.

And a great brand, I just installed a new Novakool R3800 after finally drop kicking my 3 Way Dometic nightmare.

When you say converter, do you mean it has a AC DC Transformer Block?

[themexicandoctor]

Originally Posted by Doctor Old

The batteries are Duracell Ultra Deep Cycle BCI Group 31M 105AH SLI31MDC
The fridge is a Nova Kool 6100 Compressor
Using Converter, no inverter

What was surprising was after driving around this morning the one meter read that the battery was full but the Go Power was at about 75% and at 12.7 on the digital. We’ll see what happens

Be prepared for a whole two month rotation of battery & charging surprises.

The Dark Arts of Battery Chemistry are not something an RV Owner cannot ignore without peril.

We have Resuscitation in our field & in Batteries, they call it Equalisation.

Sometimes the patient has enough Life Force to continue.

Sometimes batteries have enough Chemical Force within, to continue.

I recommend that if you are going to use your rig a lot, especiallyif you wish to boondock here & there, please investigate Lifeline.

[Doctor Old]

Our usage is going to come in big chunks. We’re preparing to go cross country for about a month. We’ll be hooking up most nights, if not always. After that, unsure. So I feel like unless something unusual, we’re probably going to be fine for now. But I’m now armed with much good information and will be ready to make some changes/upgrades when the time comes. Wife asked me today, “can we upgrade to Lithium?”. Yes, but.... To be continued

[avanti]

Originally Posted by themexicandoctor

I just clicked on the link - not a good battery at all but perfect for a newbie, think of them as bottom of the barrel learning wheels.

I have had excellent results with Group 31 AGM batteries from Batteries Plus, although I now use NAPA-branded batteries from my local NAPA store. Both are made by East Penn Mfg., whom I consider to be an excellent manufacturer. What evidence do you have that they are "bottom of the barrel"? I find them to be extremely cost-effective.

The most expensive items are not necessarily the most cost-effective.

[themexicandoctor]

Originally Posted by avanti

I have had excellent results with Group 31 AGM batteries from Batteries Plus, although I now use NAPA-branded batteries from my local NAPA store. Both are made by East Penn Mfg., whom I consider to be an excellent manufacturer. What evidence do you have that they are "bottom of the barrel"? I find them to be extremely cost-effective.

The most expensive items are not necessarily the most cost-effective.

I asked a couple of contacts at Full River & Battleborn, I used the link that was presented.

Now if I suspect, you understand Battery Chemistry the way I know you do & they are in your sophisticated rig, you may not be taxing them. But you are one of the Giants amongst us.

[avanti]

Originally Posted by themexicandoctor

I asked a couple of contacts at Full River & Battleborn, I used the link that was presented.

Maybe you should ask a contact at East Penn.

Better yet, how about somebody without a financial interest either way?

[themexicandoctor]

Originally Posted by avanti

Maybe you should ask a contact at West Penn.

Better yet, how about somebody without a financial interest either way?

I am not getting into a paissing match about entry level price point manufacturers, they are what they are.

And you as a sophisticated owner with the best set up, are never going to have to deal with the less forgiving parameters of such a manufacturer.

[themexicandoctor]

I should add that neither Full River or Battle Born felt any further explanation was necessary. It was a simple "No ... & Hell No!"

You could make the system run off two D Cell Batteries.

As it is, based on Doc's itinerary, these are the perfect batteries to learn with.

[avanti]

Originally Posted by themexicandoctor

I should add that neither Full River or Battle Born felt any further explanation was necessary. It was a simple "No ... & Hell No!"

You could make the system run off two D Cell Batteries.

As it is, based on Doc's itinerary, these are the perfect batteries to learn with.

Change you mind about the "paissing match"?

IMO, it is ridiculous to offer the opinions of a direct competitor as evidence.

East Penn is venerable and highly respected manufacturer. They sell similar products under many brands for third parties, plus their own "DEKA" brand. Their technology is very good. Companies like NAPA (and many) would not risk their reputation on them if this weren't true. There is plenty of technical information available about their manufacturing technologies and designs.

I am not saying they are the best that money can buy. I am saying that they are among the most cost-effective.

[themexicandoctor]

If its based on cost effectiveness, in finely tuned rigs, with savvy owners like you, I concur.

[@Michael]

Originally Posted by Doctor Old

@Markopolo Exactly and this is what my Go Power currently looks like:
Attachment 9847

[Assuming your Crossfit is similar to my 2019 Crossfit, the following might help - I've dug into mine pretty deeply and learned a lot.]

I had the same setup - 30A GoPower solar controller, 2 x 100w GoPower flexible roof panels, 2 x 105 AH flooded lead acid batteries on my 2019 Crossfit.

Your GoPower looks like it is charging. If you are currently plugged in to shore power, your WFCO converter should bring the batteries up to 13.6v and leave them there for some time, then drop to 13.2V. If you are getting solar exposure, your GoPower will attempt to charge the batteries and keep them charged.

The GoPower manual has some detail on how it charges. You should be able to tell if it's bulk, absorb or float based on the lights/colors and blinks.

Your GoPower should be wired to the battery side of the battery disconnect, so will charge even when your battery disconnect has dropped power to the coach. During the day the voltage reading at the GoPower will be skewed by the power from the panels. At night it should show accurate battery voltage - more accurate than the buttons. So if you want to know how deeply discharged the batteries got overnight, you have to get up before the sun and take a look at the GoPower.

If your fridge is off, your aftermarket Kenwood stereo is off (if you have one), and if your propane switch is off, your batteries should see less that 1A current draw and your solar should have no problem keeping them topped off.

My factory installed Kenwood in-dash stereo draws 1-2A any time it is powered on. The propane solenoid draws about 1A any time the propane switch is on. If you have Ford Sync and not an aftermarket, this might not apply - unless they stuffed another stereo somewhere in back. On one of my other campers, the stereo drew 1A even when off, unless the head unit was removed.

Your automatic battery disconnect will drop power to the coach at 12.2 volts.

You should have a Precision Circuits battery combiner that will charge the coach from the alternator, or the chassis from shore power and solar when either is discharged and the other is charging. Because it has a timer, running the engine will not fully charge the coach batteries.

My OEM batteries (same model as yours) were low on water after about a year and a half, even though they are supposedly sealed. Because it's a real PITA to get them out from under the fenders, I elected to replace them with AGM's that are mounted on their sides so that I can get at the terminals without lowering the batteries.

The closer your coach is to mine, in features and build date, the more I can help.

[Doctor Old]

Sounds like my rig except for the Ford Sync that I have. Thanks for that info.

[themexicandoctor]

Originally Posted by @Michael

[Assuming your Crossfit is similar to my 2019 Crossfit, the following might help - I've dug into mine pretty deeply and learned a lot.]

I had the same setup - 30A GoPower solar controller, 2 x 100w GoPower flexible roof panels, 2 x 105 AH flooded lead acid batteries on my 2019 Crossfit.

Your GoPower looks like it is charging. If you are currently plugged in to shore power, your WFCO converter should bring the batteries up to 13.6v and leave them there for some time, then drop to 13.2V. If you are getting solar exposure, your GoPower will attempt to charge the batteries and keep them charged.

The GoPower manual has some detail on how it charges. You should be able to tell if it's bulk, absorb or float based on the lights/colors and blinks.

Your GoPower should be wired to the battery side of the battery disconnect, so will charge even when your battery disconnect has dropped power to the coach. During the day the voltage reading at the GoPower will be skewed by the power from the panels. At night it should show accurate battery voltage - more accurate than the buttons. So if you want to know how deeply discharged the batteries got overnight, you have to get up before the sun and take a look at the GoPower.

If your fridge is off, your aftermarket Kenwood stereo is off (if you have one), and if your propane switch is off, your batteries should see less that 1A current draw and your solar should have no problem keeping them topped off.

My factory installed Kenwood in-dash stereo draws 1-2A any time it is powered on. The propane solenoid draws about 1A any time the propane switch is on. If you have Ford Sync and not an aftermarket, this might not apply - unless they stuffed another stereo somewhere in back. On one of my other campers, the stereo drew 1A even when off, unless the head unit was removed.

Your automatic battery disconnect will drop power to the coach at 12.2 volts.

You should have a Precision Circuits battery combiner that will charge the coach from the alternator, or the chassis from shore power and solar when either is discharged and the other is charging. Because it has a timer, running the engine will not fully charge the coach batteries.

My OEM batteries (same model as yours) were low on water after about a year and a half, even though they are supposedly sealed. Because it's a real PITA to get them out from under the fenders, I elected to replace them with AGM's that are mounted on their sides so that I can get at the terminals without lowering the batteries.

The closer your coach is to mine, in features and build date, the more I can help.

This is fantastic info.

[Doctor Old]

Just FYI. After crawling up underneath, it appears that I don’t have the batteries I thought I did. I have some no-name “Xpedition” batteries that I can’t find any information about. Just need to find a good replacement. We’re having fun now! smh

[themexicandoctor]

Again, the unspoken Joy's of Ownership!

You haven't really graduated until you experience several more instances of climbing underneath the rig, in the dead of night, on the side of the road, in the rain, yelling out instructions to the person who is in the cab, through a mask to stop drips entering your mouth & eyes. If you are lucky to have someone traveling with you. After all these are the memories that build relationships.

Think Black Tank Catastrophe.

And you are getting closer.

My suggestion; Lifeline Batteries but there is an equal argument on one of the latest threads headed "6 volts" about buying $125 Eastern Penn batteries until your learning curve meets Nirvana: a perfectly configured Charging system, in good order that entails your rig's Alternator when driving, the solar on your roof, your generator if needed & regular access to shore power.

Knowing that you do not have a MTTP Solar Controller or even an accurate Battery Monitor, you might be wise to start with the Eastern Penn units, either Flooded Lead Acid or AGM.

If you are going with AGM, then I have to recommend Lifeline - call Andrew Finkelstein in the Headquarters in San Dimas, tell him you spoke with me & what does he recommend.

[Doctor Old]

After much head scratching, reading, cyphering and consternation I did indeed change the batteries. Not much choice on short notice but found a decent option (AGMs) and someone to put them in (all RV places are mega booked up). And today, for the first time, the solar controller is giving me the “Ful” reading. Time to hit the road!

[themexicandoctor]

What did you go with?

And Yes, the RV Guys are super busy, my guy had to quit my job I had scheduled today to take care of other deadlines as he didn't realise my job was going to take so long - very frustrating but real