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05-31-2023, 07:14 PM
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#1
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Platinum Member
Join Date: Feb 2020
Location: CA
Posts: 518
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Solar Panel brackets loose
Looking at the roof, I noticed that the flimsy brackets holding the 190W solar panel have shaken loose and the black tar stuff is splitting and does not cover them anymore.
They have always been a bit shaky, but now they're at a new level of shaky.
Not too concerned it will fly off, but I don't like the holes in the roof as any water will surely find its way in there.
So... is this normal? I assume not. Happened to anyone? Ideas how to address this (low cost, without doing a completely new installation)? And yes, I like having a solar panel.
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2022 Thor Rize 18M (sold) now a 22 Honda Odyssey
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06-01-2023, 01:24 AM
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#2
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Platinum Member
Join Date: Nov 2014
Location: PHX, AZ
Posts: 2,660
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is that a thor factory install ?
quick google search showed a few posts on forums for solar brackets failing on thors
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Mike
2006 Pleasure Way Lexor TD on a Chev 3500
Previous: tent strapped to Electra-Glide
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06-01-2023, 01:50 AM
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#3
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Platinum Member
Join Date: Feb 2020
Location: CA
Posts: 518
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mkguitar
is that a thor factory install ?
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Yes, totally factory Thor using a GoPower 190W panel.
Quote:
Originally Posted by mkguitar
quick google search showed a few posts on forums for solar brackets failing on thors
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Hmmm. Only found one recent one that was a different issues with the connection to the panel.
The brackets are kinda thin and flex a lot so I am not surprised.
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2022 Thor Rize 18M (sold) now a 22 Honda Odyssey
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06-01-2023, 01:53 PM
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#4
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Platinum Member
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Smyrna, TN
Posts: 584
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Might want to check with Thor about loose bracket and possible repair. DIY remove the tar and see if you can tighten up the nut. If doable, reseal with Dicor self-leveling caulk.
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06-02-2023, 02:17 AM
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#5
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Platinum Member
Join Date: Feb 2020
Location: CA
Posts: 518
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mloganusda
Might want to check with Thor about loose bracket and possible repair. DIY remove the tar and see if you can tighten up the nut. If doable, reseal with Dicor self-leveling caulk.
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Yep, they were no help at all. I removed some of the tar and found that the brackets which hold the heavy panel during speedy driving in windy conditions are "secured" by a rather tiny nut. This resulted in the bracket wiggling loose and the whole setup becoming even wobblier.
I added some large washers to lock the brackets into place, tightened things back up, and resealed. Buying some EternaBond to finish it off and make sure it's all waterproof.
Thank you for your reply!
__________________
2022 Thor Rize 18M (sold) now a 22 Honda Odyssey
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06-02-2023, 01:04 PM
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#6
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Platinum Member
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Smyrna, TN
Posts: 584
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Glad to assist. Happy Camping.
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06-12-2023, 09:32 PM
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#7
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Platinum Member
Join Date: Feb 2020
Location: CA
Posts: 518
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Follow up question: What is the best way to maintain that softish black tar stuff when it starts to degrade? Put more on top of itself? Cover it with EternaBond? Remove and use silicone instead?
(This is on a Promaster metal roof)
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06-13-2023, 10:21 PM
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#8
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Silver Member
Join Date: Dec 2019
Location: Quebec
Posts: 50
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Hi, there
If your choice is to remove the old stuff, have a look at 3M 5200 urethane adhesive/sealer
My solar panel brackets are embedded in this product. It is a very strong adhesive and a marine grade sealer
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06-13-2023, 10:27 PM
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#9
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Platinum Member
Join Date: Dec 2020
Location: Washington
Posts: 254
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I'd uninstall those completely, then reinstall them yourself using proper techniques (stainless through-bolts, waterproof gaskets/washers and/or butyl rubber). If installed properly, no slopped-on surface tar is necessary. That tar is no excuse for a poor installation job.
If they come off at highway speed, they can become a lethal projectile.
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06-13-2023, 10:30 PM
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#10
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Platinum Member
Join Date: Feb 2020
Location: CA
Posts: 518
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Blueboy1
Hi, there
If your choice is to remove the old stuff, have a look at 3M 5200 urethane adhesive/sealer
My solar panel brackets are embedded in this product. It is a very strong adhesive and a marine grade sealer
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That particular one says: [It is recommended for interiors, below the waterline and any other places that are shielded from sunlight.]
So maybe not the right candidate...
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06-13-2023, 10:37 PM
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#11
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Platinum Member
Join Date: Feb 2020
Location: CA
Posts: 518
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Quote:
Originally Posted by N147JK
I'd uninstall those completely, then reinstall them yourself using proper techniques (stainless through-bolts, waterproof gaskets/washers and/or butyl rubber). If installed properly, no slopped-on surface tar is necessary. That tar is no excuse for a poor installation job.
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Is that maybe what it is... butyl rubber? I just called it tar out of ignorance perhaps.
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06-13-2023, 11:21 PM
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#12
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Platinum Member
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Minnesota
Posts: 12,455
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Ours are held on by bolted to expanding nuts that go through the roof.
The bolts are sealed with and the rest of the bottom of the brackets attached to the roof with PL (now Loctite) urethane exterior caulking. We have had in our very sunny house for decades and it is still just fine. I usually use the concrete caulk version to get the tanish color but all the exterior PL caulks appear to be the same mixture.
They are very slow curing and can take a week or more to gain full strength and elasticity.
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06-14-2023, 12:17 AM
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#13
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Platinum Member
Join Date: Feb 2020
Location: CA
Posts: 518
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I think what is used on my roof is butyl rubber.
Question is still how to best maintain it. According to Thor one has to inspect all seals every 3 months and fix them if cracks or other degradation show. There's just not much info exactly how to do that.
I don't think whatever stuff it is it's good for the panel since the brackets flex a lot and wobble their way out of it.
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06-14-2023, 01:45 AM
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#14
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Platinum Member
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Minnesota
Posts: 12,455
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Urlauber
I think what is used on my roof is butyl rubber.
Question is still how to best maintain it. According to Thor one has to inspect all seals every 3 months and fix them if cracks or other degradation show. There's just not much info exactly how to do that.
I don't think whatever stuff it is it's good for the panel since the brackets flex a lot and wobble their way out of it.
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With all those issues going on, you probably should get them off an start from scratch. Good anchoring for the screws. Brackets that don't flex a lot and bent to fit the roof well. Make sure the roof in that area is strong enough to support the panel without flexing too much and if it is not put plates on the inside to reinforce it.
It sounds like the did a horrible job of mounting the panels and they likely are a possible hazard so should be fixed properly.
Our urethane has been on for nearly 10 years and has no cracks in it at all.
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06-14-2023, 07:05 PM
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#15
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Platinum Member
Join Date: Dec 2020
Location: Washington
Posts: 254
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Urlauber
I think what is used on my roof is butyl rubber.
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Not likely butyl. Butyl is often used to water seal car windows and is designed to not harden, split or crack.
To clarify, the sealer should be under the bracket, not on top of it, or all over the roof next to the bracket - that's just sloppy waste. Using the correct sealer (like butyl tape) there is no need to pour anything on top. Sealer on top provides no benefit at all - just creates a mess.
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06-14-2023, 07:13 PM
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#16
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Platinum Member
Join Date: Feb 2020
Location: CA
Posts: 518
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I actually have some of that tape! Thanks for all your help and suggestions.
I will get some stronger/larger brackets, and then scratch off the sloppy stuff and redo it all with proper butyl rubber tape.
Not a priority as I was able to tighten it up with some larger washers, so it is definitely more secure than previously. I think.
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2022 Thor Rize 18M (sold) now a 22 Honda Odyssey
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