The rule of thumb solar is a 100 watt solar panel produces an average of about 6 amps per peak sun hour, or about 30 amp-hours per day. That came from a major solar panel supplier when I was planning my van. So at 470 watts you may have about 141 amp-hours replenishment in day. That is probably the best you can do. In real practice I experienced I think that is optimistic as it doesn’t take in effect of sun angle, time of year, tree and cloud shading, or blocking of sun on roofs like air conditioners and other roof top equipment.
There is battery drain from passive things like standby, various idiot lights, wire transmission loss, Trickle Start charger, whatnot and just natural loss if you have batteries connected. If you have an inverter turned on then you have a major drain. Ecotreks were notorious for this. Batteries connected and inverter off I have a loss of about 4 amps per hour on my Advanced RV with an always on WiFiRanger and the stuff I mentioned. I can monitor real-time through my Silverleaf Coach Management monitor which is one of the whatnot aspects. So 4 x 24 = 96 amps. So I would have a theoretical 45 amp gain. I doubt you have a net gain in a Roadtrek. If you disconnect your batteries totally then you also disconnect battery charging via the inverter/charger.
With 800ah battery bank that gain accounts for at best 6% battery replacement in a day. Driving one hour can replace 18% from the standard alternator which is equivalent to the total gain of your solar panels. A second alternator, or UHG as Roadtrek called it with additional charging makes having solar moot. Solar is feel good but putting enough solar on limited square foot area of a van roof is kind of futile.
That is the major reason I left solar off my current van. I could not get anywhere near 400+ watts on a short van. The higher the battery bank amp-hours are the less contribution for solar to the point it is negligible. The second alternator cinches not needing solar in practical use.
The best thing you can do in your driveway is plug into 120v 15a shore power. You don’t need 30a accessibility. If batteries are fully charged you can also totally disconnect them and they will last a full season of storage which is about mid October to mid-April in the Midwest.
I’ve been accused of being challenged by dyslexia on battery usage terms so I hope I have made sense.