Shore power plug replacement

[booster]

The prices have dropped a lot, I think, since I last looked at them probably 5 years ago. Hodges Marine has the full kit of the white plastic inlet and 30' cordset for $216 with free shipping. That would give us 5' more cord and cold weather rollup on our Roadtrek, so very tempting to be sure. Should be easy install for us as we are already modified to a twist lock.

They are currently backordered and stating delivery in June to early July, but no hurry for us anyway.

We have been looking at extra flex cord for ours and at 30' you can get over $100 very quickly, if you can find any at all in small quantities.

[GeorgeRa]

Originally Posted by Davydd

No, you didn't misunderstand George's question. George was an early pioneer when he bought his when only available for boats and had to modify the cable for his RV. I just mentioned you can now buy the Smartplug 30A cable you don't have to modify and I thought it was superior to my previous RV cables I had in the past. I don't know how much you save by modifying the end of an existing cable you already had.

About 5 years ago, we were moving and my cable modified to Smart Plug was accidentally packed in storage so I bought a black RV Smart Plug cable. It is indeed more flexible and easier to coil. In addition, it has a little blue LED power indicator which I like lot, at glance I can see if the cable is powered.

[JohnnyFry]

Easily available may not be correct. I went to replace mine and went to Lowes and HD and found one which LOOKS very similar and was listed as 30 amp 120 volts but, unfortunately, it did not fit. I returned it and went to a wholesale electrical distributor who pulled out the Hubbell catalog and found that there is an RV specific connector which is much like another model: same diameter, same pins,Execpt that the little offset on the ground pin was different. He didnt have one so I ended up at Camping World. I could have saved a lot of time by going to an RV supply first.

[mkguitar]

Sorry if it was my earlier post sent on a goose chase

My RV uses a connector type L5-30
Rated for 30A 125 volts
( the pedestal end is a TT-30)



Home Depot carries the for $19

https://www.homedepot.com/p/AC-WORKS...530R/303108445


Camping World for $17.47


https://www.campingworld.com/hubbell...-plugs-outlets



This is the "R" version for receptacle



the "P" version is a plug ( if making an extension)



For 30 amp load use 10/3 wire


Amazon has a number of end connectors and full cable sets as well



mike

[Bangorbob]

I know this is an old post, but of interest to me and maybe others. I would like to change the shore power receptacle on my 05C210v to a smart plug. I already have the smart plug kit. I would like to see some pics of anyone who has relocated this connection. I really don't want to fish a cord through the mouse hole.

Thanks, Bob

[GeorgeRa]

Why are you planning to relocate the inlet?. What typy of RV is it?, your description is too cryptic for me, sorry.

[Bangorbob]

I have a 2005 Roadtrek 210 versatile. As stated, I don't want to have to fish the power cord through the mouse hole behind the rear tire.

[GeorgeRa]

Why fishing any wire if you are replacing an old style inlet with a newer one?
I installed my SmartPlug on the receiver bar 10 years ago in an aluminum junction box but am not certain it is applicable in your case

[bwatters60]

I documented my shoreline upgrade to a Smartplug. My Roadtrek is a 2008 210 Popular on an '07 chassis. See attached for details. A great upgrade.

[booster]

On our 190 we also had the mouse hole in front of the driver side rear wheel in the end of the side storage pod. I was able to put the Smart Plug receptacle in the same place and cut the existing cord and attach it to the plug. I covered the inside of the receptacle with a big PVC pipe cap with a notch for the cord and a couple of L brackets to hold in place. Works well for us.

[Bangorbob]

Originally Posted by booster

On our 190 we also had the mouse hole in front of the driver side rear wheel in the end of the side storage pod. I was able to put the Smart Plug receptacle in the same place and cut the existing cord and attach it to the plug. I covered the inside of the receptacle with a big PVC pipe cap with a notch for the cord and a couple of L brackets to hold in place. Works well for us.

But did you still have to fish the power cord thru the mouse hole?

[booster]

Originally Posted by Bangorbob

But did you still have to fish the power cord thru the mouse hole?

Nope. I removed the mouse hole piece and replaced it with a the smart plug through panel mount receptacle. The Smartplug goes in from the outside, and we don't even have to open the storage compartment unless the cord is in there to take out. I will see if I can find my pics on the install.

[Bangorbob]

Originally Posted by booster

Nope. I removed the mouse hole piece and replaced it with a the smart plug through panel mount receptacle. The Smartplug goes in from the outside, and we don't even have to open the storage compartment unless the cord is in there to take out. I will see if I can find my pics on the install.

My old brain can see it. A picture would do me real good.
Thanks

[avanti]

I don't know what all this "mouse hole" talk refers to, but lots of people mount their shore-power plugs in the back next to the trailer hitch.
Random Example:



That is what I did in our Transit.

[booster]

Here is the thread in the install, so a couple of pix. I did replace the cord into the van to extend it to the power protector so that was extra work that you might not need.


http://https://www.classbforum.com/f...rds-10720.html

[GeorgeRa]

Originally Posted by avanti

I don't know what all this "mouse hole" talk refers to, but lots of people mount their shore-power plugs in the back next to the trailer hitch.
Random Example:



That is what I did in our Transit.

I mounted the SmartPlug inlet on the receiver tube for these reasons:

1. No hole in the chassis sheet metal so no potential corrosion issues
2. Very strong assembly
3. Easy access in case of necessary repair.

Regarding SmartPlug:

1. Low resistance - no heating
2. Easy insertion/removal - no rotation as required with older plugs

It has been 10 years since, no regrets.

https://sprinter-source.com/forums/i...20#post-273290
https://photos.app.goo.gl/USxq1SZzbtt16D3k6

[Bangorbob]

Originally Posted by booster

Here is the thread in the install, so a couple of pix. I did replace the cord into the van to extend it to the power protector so that was extra work that you might not need.


http://https://www.classbforum.com/f...rds-10720.html

Booster. The link you provided doesn't seem to work. I'm looking for a picture of the end product.

Thanks, Bob

[booster]

I have had occasional problems with links not working when I use the link attachment button. I will put it in direct to see if it does better.


https://www.classbforum.com/forums/f...tml#post111472


Just tested it and it worked for me.

[Bangorbob]

Booster, The link worked, thanks. But I must confess that I must be dumber than snot as I think I understand how you did yours but I don't. Here are a couple pics of my current setup.

[booster]

Originally Posted by Bangorbob

Booster, The link worked, thanks. But I must confess that I must be dumber than snot as I think I understand how you did yours but I don't. Here are a couple pics of my current setup.

A bit hard to tell what you have there. It looks like the read cord somehow is by the rear of the driver side pod, or maybe drawer? Other pic of the opposite end of the same area?


What year and particular model do you have, perhaps I can see a layout drawing on the Roadtrek website to see where the transfer switch is compared to wire entry.