Shore power plug replacement - Page 2

Sensfan · 08-20-2019, 02:01 PM

Thanks much. Replacing our power cord is also the first step to mitigate what may be a hot chassis condition.

booster · 08-20-2019, 02:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sensfan

Thanks much. Replacing our power cord is also the first step to mitigate what may be a hot chassis condition.

What is giving you an indication of hot chassis? On shore power only?

Roadtreks have had some issues, we have heard, where they bonding the neutral and ground in the fuse panel, which can make the chassis a current carrying conductor.

With any RV, AFAIK, if you get open neutral and ground, you can have a hot chassis on shore power if bonded.

peteco · 08-20-2019, 02:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by booster

What is giving you an indication of hot chassis? On shore power only?

Roadtreks have had some issues, we have heard, where they bonding the neutral and ground in the fuse panel, which can make the chassis a current carrying conductor.

With any RV, AFAIK, if you get open neutral and ground, you have hot chassis on shore power.

How do you check for a bonded neutral and ground in the vehicle?

Sensfan · 08-21-2019, 03:16 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by booster

What is giving you an indication of hot chassis? On shore power only?

Roadtreks have had some issues, we have heard, where they bonding the neutral and ground in the fuse panel, which can make the chassis a current carrying conductor.
With any RV, AFAIK, if you get open neutral and ground, you can have a hot chassis on shore power if bonded.

Thanks much for the above Booster.
On two separate occasions this year when connected to shore power, I received a small shock while touching the chrome bumpers while my hands and feet were wet. The second event occurred two weeks ago at a beach campsite in the Maritimes. I disconnected from shore power and left the battery switch on ... no shock. I reconnected the shore power ... shock. I dried off completely ... no shock.
I bought a Klein NCVT-3 no touch voltage tester, range 12-1000 volts, after being told that it could detect future hot chassis condition so I can avoid any possible future shock. Per your comment re fuse boxes, when I connected to shore power and placed the Klein close to the three circuit breakers, it gave off high strength visual and audible signals. Considering this, I have also read that a tester that senses low voltage may provide a false positive in regard to a hot chassis.
We have no electrical diagram for our 2012 190-Ranger. This is unfortunate, as I believe that a certified electrician with rv experience needs to troubleshoot the situation.

avanti · 08-21-2019, 05:17 AM

Don't tarry on the hot skin condition. It is no joke. People have died.

LesterGreenberg · 05-21-2020, 04:58 PM

My problem is that have a '19 Coachmen Crossfit (now called the Beyond) and the plug config is a 3 screw round format. That does not fit. Has anyone else had to deal with this? I would love the SmartPlug but am not sure I can make it work. I am a newbie to the RV thing. Thanks!

mkguitar · 05-21-2020, 05:20 PM

Hi Lester,

Welcome

you have a Hubbell ( manufacturer) type twist lock connector rated for 30 amps

( other 20 amp or 50 amp rated are different size and will not mate up)

pictured is the "socket" or "receptacle"

the plug is the end of the cord in your hand

what are you wanting to do?

The hubbell twist lock is standard in North America and easily replaced or sourced should you have a cable lost or busted ( like driving out connected- oops! )

The hubbel by design can only be connected correctly, locks into place, and has neutral and ground poles larger than the positive- for safety

connectors are available almost anywhere, home depot, lowes online

Mike

GeorgeRa · 05-21-2020, 05:30 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by LesterGreenberg

My problem is that have a '19 Coachmen Crossfit (now called the Beyond) and the plug config is a 3 screw round format. That does not fit. Has anyone else had to deal with this? I would love the SmartPlug but am not sure I can make it work. I am a newbie to the RV thing. Thanks!

I would assume you can simply drill 4 holes and seal the existing ones. Smart Plug should cover existing 3 holes. Another option would be to add shore power inlet similarly to mine if you have a hitch.

https://sprinter-source.com/forums/i...20#post-273290

LesterGreenberg · 05-21-2020, 08:14 PM

Thanks Mike! It's a whole new world.

I would like to swap it for the simple plug in 30a SmartPlug and since it is a 3 screw round design as opposed to the standard 4 screw square design that SmartPlug uses, I was interested in what anyone has done to get around this. I suppose I can just "redo the space where the plug is and drill new holes to use for a new plug but I was wondering if there is a simpler workaround.

thanks! -L

mkguitar · 05-21-2020, 08:41 PM

I won't be helpful, I'm old school- and I work with electronics for a living and go with tried and true

I know my Hubbell is UL and CSA rated and is OEM equipment

Enjoy your project

Mike

avanti · 05-21-2020, 09:00 PM

The Smartplug is awesome and the company is first-rate. When I was installing mine, I overtightened one of the wire clamps and stripped it. Totally my fault. I emailed them and asked if I could buy a new clamp. They sent me a whole new plug assembly for free and threw in a bonus transparent plug storage cap.

GeorgeRa · 05-21-2020, 11:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by avanti

The Smartplug is awesome and the company is first-rate. When I was installing mine, I overtightened one of the wire clamps and stripped it. Totally my fault. I emailed them and asked if I could buy a new clamp. They sent me a whole new plug assembly for free and threw in a bonus transparent plug storage cap.

Before deciding to use Smart Plug I talked to the company founder, his product was still gaining traction in the boating world based on improved reliability and ease of insertion. For marine application reliability was likely the primarily selling point but for my RV easy insertion was more important. In 2013 they were very focused on the boating market and didn’t have RV cable so I had to make my own to fit an RV 30A outlet.

Since, I got their black cable with an LED indicator. It was a great company to work with. Using an aluminum junction box bolted to the hitch made my shore power connection very easy to use and reliable. Definitely would repeat my shore connection verbatim if I would be doing DIY again, but, I am not.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HkXXgFaWdQs

bwatters60 · 05-26-2020, 02:53 AM

Replacing the original shoreline plug on my Roadtrek 210 with a Smartplug was an excellent upgrade. Now it's easy on/off, and it truly is a better connection - the original plug used to get unusually warm when the AC was running nearly fulltime when I was parked at my son's in FL. Same spot and conditions, and the Smartplug is not even warm.

GeorgeRa · 05-26-2020, 05:46 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bwatters60

Replacing the original shoreline plug on my Roadtrek 210 with a Smartplug was an excellent upgrade. Now it's easy on/off, and it truly is a better connection - the original plug used to get unusually warm when the AC was running nearly fulltime when I was parked at my son's in FL. Same spot and conditions, and the Smartplug is not even warm.

Nice write up, did you modified your RV cable with the Smart Plug plug?

bwatters60 · 05-26-2020, 05:53 AM

Yes, I modified the existing RV cable with the Smartplug. Works great.

Davydd · 05-26-2020, 02:04 PM

You don't have to modify an existing RV cable any longer as Smartplug provides the proper cable receptor for RVs for at least 4-1/2 years now. Their cable is superior to any previous RV cables I had mainly in just handling as they coil easier to put away. They appear to be better quality as well from my previous cables.

bwatters60 · 05-26-2020, 02:15 PM

Maybe I misunderstood GeorgeRa's question, "did you modified your RV cable with the Smart Plug plug?". So, just to clarify, I removed the RV shoreline receptacle and the corresponding plug on my RV 30A shoreline cable, and replaced this receptacle and plug with a SmartPlug connector and non-metallic connector. So I'm still using the original 30A wire.

Davydd · 05-26-2020, 02:36 PM

No, you didn't misunderstand George's question. George was an early pioneer when he bought his when only available for boats and had to modify the cable for his RV. I just mentioned you can now buy the Smartplug 30A cable you don't have to modify and I thought it was superior to my previous RV cables I had in the past. I don't know how much you save by modifying the end of an existing cable you already had.

bwatters60 · 05-26-2020, 02:40 PM

Oh, I wasn't aware of the modification required on earlier SmartPlug units. Old man here, but relatively newbie (3 years) when it comes to RV'ing. Thanks for the history lesson.

Davydd · 05-26-2020, 02:53 PM

George could be the first RV with a Smartplug in a DIY situation. I know I had the first Class B with a Smartplug from an RV manufacturer. The other major advantage is you can plug in blind with easier lining up and no twist and clamp screw on. That way if you are starting out fresh you can design the connection below the back bumper out of sight.

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