Selector switch battery disconnect.

[jjrbus]

I have a 02 Roadtrek built on a Chevy 3500. Looking at adding a selector switch so when van is sitting I can charge the van battery also. Simple enough to add a couple wires and switch to the isolator. But no where convenient to put the switch.

OK, no big deal I will use a solenoid, relay something like that and started looking.

I came across something new to me, a remote battery disconnect, never saw one before. Has anyone used one of these, are they any good, junk ??

https://www.amazon.com/Battery-Disco...zcF9hdGY&psc=1

[booster]

Originally Posted by jjrbus

I have a 02 Roadtrek built on a Chevy 3500. Looking at adding a selector switch so when van is sitting I can charge the van battery also. Simple enough to add a couple wires and switch to the isolator. But no where convenient to put the switch.

OK, no big deal I will use a solenoid, relay something like that and started looking.

I came across something new to me, a remote battery disconnect, never saw one before. Has anyone used one of these, are they any good, junk ??

https://www.amazon.com/Battery-Disco...zcF9hdGY&psc=1

I use a similar device in my restored car to disable it when it is parked in public spots to prevent theft. It works fine, but they do take power when not in use so might not be best for connecting batteries.


There are lots of options to do what you want that you can buy off the shelf, including in cab switch models and ones that are automatic or both auto and manual.


You van should already have an isolator under the hood someplace that allows the coach batteries to charge from the alternator. All you need to do is replace it with a separator, often called charge relay, that works in both directions. It is what is used in many newer vans and has been put into many of the older ones as an upgrade.


Lots of information on this forum about brands and installs on various vans.



It would be best if you list the model of the Roadtrek and chassis year if it is different than the RV conversion year which is common with Roadtreks.

[jjrbus]

Draws power, good to know.

[Hatteras Jim]

I use a Newmar BI-100 battery integrator. It connects both house and vehicle batteries together when sensing voltage is above 13.2 volts. Now, there are times when I do not wish it to engage, so I put a simple spst switch on the negative side of the coil of the switching relay/solenoid so I can control when I want to charge the house battery or isolate it from charging.
I also have a marine manual A/B connect switch so I can run my dc stuff either from the house or vehicle battery (or both). I have an on-board dc charger that operates from shore power, feeding the a/b switch, so I can select which battery to charge while I am at camp. If I kept the battery integrator in the circuit, it would switch "on" whenever I am on shore power (regardless of what battery was selected), and I don't like that, so hence the on/off switch. It does get a tad warm when in use. Mine is under a kitchen sink. Newmar also has a 200 amp version. Haven't had a problem in ten years. Search for it on-line. Probably a little salty (it's a marine product) . $150-$250 range.

If you are going the diy route with a solenoid; be sure you get one rated for continuous duty at least 100 amps. On/off switch should be on the coil side of the solenoid. Make sure you fuse the power lead from the switch and they will also get warm when "On". Select a name brand that has a good reputation (Cole-Hersee for example). Cheap junk will only give you problems down the road.

Looking at the amazon product, I would run away from this as fast as I can.

[TX-Trek]

I agree with the comment above about that Amazon gizmo.

Couple years ago I replaced the Eaton 1315-200 battery separator in our 2010 210P. It was located underhood.

The 1315 separator was starting to delay switching, generally becoming undependable. I know that heat and corrosion can be an issue, but I also did not like the high level of heat generated from the constant amperage draw needed to maintain closed contact using a solenoid. I installed a Blue Sea auto 7622 unit in the same spot as the 1315 (engine compartment) and the included remote switch into the dash. The Blue Sea unit is a bidirectional unit, so it will allow charging in either direction, depending on voltage sensed. It can either automatically send voltage to the coach batteries while driving or send voltage to the engine battery when parked and connected to shore power. Or it can be isolated, or manually connected.

I did make a metal plate to attach to the engine cowling, then attached the 7622 to that, with a .25" air space between the the plate and the 7622. No problems thus far with heat affecting the unit.



The remote switch easily mounted into one of the dash panel sections. Wiring was routed through an existing grommet in the firewall just adjacent to the accelerator pedal and secured.



I didn't think that I would use the remote switch that much, but I've found for me at least, it's been pretty handy. I've used it many times to just charge the coach batteries or to run the fridge the night before we leave for somewhere without having to have all batteries connected. Its a convenient point of control for the battery separator. You can also manually connect all batteries in the event your engine battery has run down, allowing the use of coach batteries to start the vehicle. We do carry a jump box, but I don't mind a little extra insurance.

The other benefit is that the 7622 magnetic latching doesn't need all the amperage of the 1315 solenoid to stay latched so it generates very low heat. There's enough heat in the engine compartment that the unit absorbs, let alone generating it's own additional heat. The 1315 would get too hot to put your hand on without any engine heat added in.

Since this stuff has been installed, everything has worked perfectly. I also have an inexpensive battery monitor in the van just to see charging voltage to the coach batteries. The 7622 isn't cheap but is a quality piece with a lifetime warranty from a good company and works great. Worth it to me.

[phantomjock]

Originally Posted by TX-Trek

I agree with the comment above about that Amazon gizmo....
The other benefit is that the 7622 magnetic latching doesn't need all the amperage of the 1315 solenoid to stay latched so it generates very low heat. There's enough heat in the engine compartment that the unit absorbs, let alone generating it's own additional heat. The 1315 would get too hot to put your hand on without any engine heat added in...

I concur 100% Great device, from a fantastic company.
But I have changed my electrical system, and the one I installed is now excess to requirements.
Therefore it is for sale. It was lightly used for several weekends, maybe 30-40 hours only. You would need to buy the switch, as it has been repurposed and remains in my RT. but is on A>z for under $20.


PM me if interested - we can work a deal.

Cheers - Jim

[Urlauber]

Of course, you could also use something like a Precision Circuits BIM 160. It is a bit cheaper, but does not come with the remote on/off switch.
It will automatically charge your batteries, and has contacts for an "emergency start" if your chassis battery should be down for some reason. One could also put a switch on the ground connection to manually disable it.