Roadtrek RS Adventurous Inverter Upgrade

[booster]

Originally Posted by RoadToad@live.com

Not being confrontational here. I have the utmost respect for the obvious knowledge of Booster, Marco, other Forum members.
Not withstanding failure mode scenarios, I just literally do not see the switched Gnd issue.

I don't think anyone has said the switching of hot and neutral was not a safe way to go. Are there some likely very rare circumstances that having ground also switched might save someone, probably, but in general there are others because of no earth ground issues that are more likely.


I hope there is no confusion here about what a 3 input transfer switch is. What it isn't referring to in my statements is a 3 wire switching unit. What it is referring to is a unit that will handle automatic switching by priority of 3 separate power sources, which in most cases are shore, genny, and onboard inverter.

[Road Toad]

Originally Posted by booster

I don't think anyone has said the switching of hot and neutral was not a safe way to go. Are there some likely very rare circumstances that having ground also switched might save someone, probably, but in general there are others because of no earth ground issues that are more likely.


I hope there is no confusion here about what a 3 input transfer switch is. What it isn't referring to in my statements is a 3 wire switching unit. What it is referring to is a unit that will handle automatic switching by priority of 3 separate power sources, which in most cases are shore, genny, and onboard inverter.

Yes, I admire that 3 way box you identified (except for the price lol).
We're good here.
Thank you all for the engaging conversation.

[Nic7320]

Forgive me if I interject this without reading the whole thread.

A 3 pole three position (on1-off-on2) MANUAL transfer switch can be had for $19 or so.

https://www.amazon.com/Terminals-Pos...dp/B07W6TBL71/

So a 30 amp service transfer switch with a switched neutral and permanent bond at the inverter is an easy task. There's no reason to disconnect the ground, you're just introducing a failure mode you don't ever want.

[engnrsrule]

Originally Posted by Nic7320

Forgive me if I interject this without reading the whole thread.

A 3 pole three position (on1-off-on2) MANUAL transfer switch can be had for $19 or so.

https://www.amazon.com/Terminals-Pos...dp/B07W6TBL71/

So a 30 amp service transfer switch with a switched neutral and permanent bond at the inverter is an easy task. There's no reason to disconnect the ground, you're just introducing a failure mode you don't ever want.

My configuration needs 2 30 amp transfer switches (or a 3-input switch). I would not want to have to flip manual switches. 1st switch - shore tie (priority) or generator; 2nd switch - Output of 1st switch (priority) or inverter. Additionally the feed for battery charger taps off 1st switch output. This prevents the inverter from powering the battery charger (creating a self-licking ice cream cone). While this arrangement sends inverter power to the full 110v panel, I know what each source can and can't carry. I cannot run the AC if shore tie is a 15 amp outlet from the house. I can't run the AC or microwave on the inverter. In either case I will trip a source breaker.

[Nic7320]

Seems like this is a pretty common need amongst RV'ers.
We need a 3 source (auto or manual) transfer switch that doesn't break the bank.
But if your rig already has an ATS for the generator, then you don't need to select from 3 sources, only the remaining two. I'll assume you're well on your way with that.

And how did I end up on a thread from December? I was looking for something else.

[engnrsrule]

The 2nd switch I added was very similar to the original switch. I purchased on Amazon for $92. A single 3 input switch would prevent me from tapping of the power for the battery charger, and necessitate a relay to isolate it when the inverter was running. I think the nesting of 2 ATS's is preferable considering cost and reliability, and a pretty common configuration. The ATS connected to the generator should have a delay integral to the switching process.

Post #39 of this thread has a diagram of my layout.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00F84S3KM/

[engnrsrule]

I have another thread up that talks about my GFCI issue. It was NOT a Tripplite problem. Turns out there was a neutral to ground short in the 110 side of the hot water heater. The thread also outlines an easy way to ensure different 110v source are appropriately establishing neutral ground bond when connected and breaking the bond when not connected. My inverter meets this goal.

To view this thread click https://www.classbforum.com/forums/f...tie-12375.html

[engnrsrule]

The upgraded inverter required 150a protection for the feed from the battery. On my original installation of this upgrade I chose a 150a DC breaker. I found that this breaker would trip if I ran the Keurig, even though this load should have been within the rating.

I had noticed some negative reviews on these breakers, notably that they were not consistent at carrying their rated load

I decided to try changing to a fuse and now the Keurig works on inverter.